/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Assemble a part list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Example gaming builds and _monitor_ suggestions; click on the blue title to see notes
pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/
>Learn how to build a PC (You can find a lot more detailed videos on channels like Bitwit)
youtube.com/watch?v=69WFt6_dF8g
>How to install Win7 on Ryzen
pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1

If you want help:
>State the budget & CURRENCY for your build
>List your uses, e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose (e.g., photoediting, gaming) and graphics card pairing (if applicable)

CPUs:
>NO i5 7500/7600K or i7 7700/K. THEY ARE DEFUNCT AND SUPERSEDED BY COFFEE LAKE
>G4560/G4600 - non-gaming (light tasks) or bare minimum gaming builds with a dedicated graphics card
>R3 1200 - Budget builds (best with OC + fast RAM)
>R5 1600 / i5 8400 - Great gaming (especially the i5 8400) or multithreaded use CPUs (especially the R5 1600)
>R7 / Used Xeon / Threadripper / i7 - Heavy Multi-Tasking / VM Work / Mixed use

RAM:
>Current CPUs benefit from high speed RAM; 3000-3200 MHz is ideal
>Before buying RAM for Ryzen, check your Mobo's QVL or look for user reports

Graphics cards:
>Consider Vega 56 for a Freesync monitor
>Crypto-Currency miners have driven GPU prices up (particularly Radeon)
1080p
>MSRP of standard 1080p cards: 1050Ti, 140USD; 1060 3GB, $200; 1060 6GB, $230; RX 570 4GB, $170; RX 580 4GB, $200
>GTX 1070 if you're looking for very high (100+) framerates and you have a CPU and monitor to match
1440p
>GTX 1070/Ti and 1080 are standard choices; currently overpriced
>GTX 1080Ti if you're looking for very high (100+) framerates and you have a CPU and monitor to match
2160p (4K)
>GTX 1080Ti

General:
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING
>A 240GB or larger SSD is almost mandatory; consider m.2 form factor

Previous:

Other urls found in this thread:

blurbusters.com/faq/120hz-monitors/
pcpartpicker.com/list/r8zbnn
pcpartpicker.com/list/7MKC2R
pcpartpicker.com/list/hc7cZ8
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113435
youtube.com/watch?v=4RMbYe4X2LI
youtube.com/watch?v=mbK0n5FjvhI
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

Does a good 1080p, 120hz - 144hz, gsync, reasonably sized monitor exist?

yes but seeing as it's g-sync it will cost you an arm and a leg.

Lowest you will be able to get is probably around $400 or so, and that's with a sale.

repostin from last bread.

any ideas before i box this ram and put this case to rest?
to summarize: 1 ram sick seems dead; will not post from any ram slot. have cleared cmos, unchecked max ram in windows, played with ram speeds on both sticks(they match) and several other things.

with both ram sticks in, the BIOS sees both of them for 16gb total. in windows, both sticks are seen as well, but 8gb is "hardware reserved", leaving only 8gb usable.
im a bit confused as to how the ram stick can be dead but still show up in both the BIOS and windows. it sees that it is 8gb but nothing i do moves it from "hardware reserved".

Yeah, I don't mind paying a bit more.
It's just, most of them are either 27" and that is too big for 1080p or 1440p and I am perfectly fine with 1080.

Last thread repost:

>Adata ASU800SS-256GT-C
>Adata SP600FA3-256GM
>Samsung MZ-7PC256

I found these SSDs in Brazil's Microcenter for a great price. Which one is better?

Take a read through.

blurbusters.com/faq/120hz-monitors/

I want to fall to the full array local dimming meme
which's the best monitor for that?

>1 ram sick seems dead; will not post from any ram slot.
There might be something wrong with the motherboard but if it works fine with the other stick I doubt that's the issue. Look at your mobo's QVL and look for the cheapest (2666mhz at least) DDR4 or get the same model as the other stick

both sticks i have now are the same model. not on the QVL. the other stick works 100% fine.
im probably just gonna buy flare x ram, on the QVL, and sell this 1 stick if i can.

Flare x is a bit pricey in my opinion, I'd go for Trident z (if it's in the QVL)

tridentz is what i have now. its not on the QVL, or rather only 1(?) model is on the QVL and it is even more expensive than flare x. the model on the QVL is like DDR4-4000mhz or some crazy shit.

Damn, then go for a kit that's listed to avoid problems. Flare x 3200mhz would be optimal if you can afford it

What happens if you get a tiny bit of thermal paste on the side of the cpu once the heatsink portion of your cooler is screwed down?

Can anybody recommend an internal wireless card that has good range?

its happened to me in the past a few times, i usually use a q-tip to clean it up as best i can. as long as its not overflowing onto the circuits then it should be ok

What are the best ultrawides for general use?

Any predictions for when Gpu prices will fall back? Or will they stay high forever?

>Building a PC so you can write books
why?

If you were building a computer now and needed a card, buy now.
If you're content with your current situation and simply looking to upgrade, Nvidia will be making an official announcement on "Ampere" (next generation gaming card, Volta will remain a professional platform) at GTC 2018 at the end of March with a slim chance (very slim) of a hard launch Founders Edition.
In your case, I'd probably wait.
What screen are you intending on running?

what is a good pc vendor since it's cheaper than building one yourself right now?

Hi /pcbg/
I bought an RX 580 8GB for $499 CAD, that seems insane wrt to the MSRP listed in OP. Did I get ripped off or is this just related to the cryptofad?

Also when installing this thing in my PC there is HELLA sag on the gpu. This is ridiculous. Is this normal? Am I supposed to buy a special jig or something to prop it up?

this is seriously fucked up. Why are miners buying fucking 1050tis?

HP

It's literally all that most miners that don't have a backroom deal with there local electronics store can get. It's the lowest end card that can really mine as a normal 1050 only has 2gb of VRAM and some coins need at least 4gb

Dell seems to be decent and lets you have somewhat of an upgrade path

how come my 8700k runs just as hot at stock clock as other peoples' do at 4.5ghz+? I'm using a Noctua NH-U12S and get about 70 degrees using Aida 3.7ghz

>paintings
who the fuck looks at paintings for leisure

so im expericing some weird slow downs on my new rig. old rig was an overclocked AMD FX-8350, 4.5ghz, win7 and 16gb RAM.
new rig is AMD ryzen5 1600x, stock 3.6Ghz, win10 and 8gb ram(1 stick ded). if i run a stress test/benchmark, once all cores and threads are 100% utilized, things start to slow down. my mouse cursor seems to move at like 5 fps and it becomes very hard to switch window focus or really do much.
i never got these kinda slowdowns on my FX chip, even during benchmarks.
i just finished building this rig a few hours ago, so im wondering if maybe theres some windows 10 service or thing in the backround that is slowin shit down or something like that. i dunno anything about windows 10.

Me faggot

It's pretty obvious that at 100% usage you aren't going to be able to do shit
The effects of a workload are probably different based on design of components and software so efficiency may be different, especially when you have half the memory capacity.

so you think it is the memory difference? have you experienced slowdowns like i described? i never had any kind of slowdown like this on windows7 or xubuntu, regardless of cpu utilization. i thought my comp was crashing or something at first.
i seriously doubt it, but those 2 extra cores on the FX chip shouldnt really make any performance difference vs a 6core/12thread ryzen 5 right? the ipc difference should be too large i would think.

Help. my recently built pc won't turn on. It was working perfectly fine for the past 4 months, but about a week ago it just didn't power on when I pushed the button. No fans, no lights, nothing, just no power. I tried some troubleshooting and discharging the PSU (holding the power button while PSU is unplugged) helped and it started just fine.
Then it worked perfectly for a week or so and today it did the same thing - no power at all. Discharging the PSU didn't do shit, reseating CMOS battery didn't do shit, reconnecting all power cabels and reseating GPU and RAM didn't do shit, shorting the PWR pins on mobo didn't do shit and I'm out of options.
So the question: how to figure out what's wrong and what could possibly be wrong? I sure as fuck hope it's just cmos battery died and not psu or mobo.

specs are
ASRock AB350m-HDV
Corsair VS550
Ryzen 5 1600
Corsair 2x4Gb 2400Mhz
Gigabyte 1050ti

How much of a performance increase can I expect from upgrading 8gb ram to 16? I like to alt tab out of my multiplayer games and browse while talking on discord

>Crypto-Currency miners have driven GPU prices up
>1060 6GB, $230
> $230
Where the fuck are you finding that GPU for so cheap when the suggested price is $300 minimum. Cheapest I've seen is $550

None of your GPU prices are accurate. This isn't even a helpful thread.

>what is MSRP

Thats the msrp price

>atm machine

just attempted my first build using these parts
pcpartpicker.com/list/r8zbnn

when I turn it on, the CPU and DRAM debug lights on the motherboard light up red and nothing shows up on the monitor.
Is my ram maybe not compatible with my motherboard?

The 8350 and the 1600X follow different design choices, and the 6/8 core Ryzens completely slaughter the 8350 all-around. The IPC increase is extreme. Not to mention that Ryzen and Windows 7 weren't exactly made with maximum compatibility in mind. There are just too many potential causes for this to place it on one likely factor.

maybe you should checked that before you bought pajeet. Or make sure its fully plugged in

All DDR4 is compatible, so that is not the case. Make sure that your memory, power cables, and video card are all seated correctly, and check to see if your display cable is correctly inserted into your video card. If you're using Displayport, the cable lock should have a firm hold.

i guess my post was kinda a mess; the ryzen 5 system is using windows 10 pro. my old FX rig was on windows 7 pro.
but yeah i guess you are right. maybe by time i order new RAM and get 16gb again, ill have a feel for windows 10 and whats going on.
one more thing im wondering about: SMT on ryzen chips. ive heard that some people disable this for some reason?

Gsync no. The 144hz monitors at 1080p are mostly the old TN 3D gaming monitors that were being marketed before Gsync was a thing.

SMT is usually a great thing, but it can cause issues with performance in some games (and probably select programs) when not optimised for. If you want the best performance make sure your stuff is up to date and that your clocks are all correct.

There are multiple factors:
Delidding- Expect a dozen or two degrees less at load
Luck of the draw- Some CPUs are better than others, and this is only the truth
Cooler choice- The U12S isn't as good as the D15, and custom watercooling will always be better than air.
Environment- some people live in cooler areas than others, and other people have better case airflow than you

Depends on CPU performance
If your CPU is already weak then adding memory to the situation is like putting a cripple in a marathon
If you have enough multithreaded performance to handle multiple tasks then getting 16GB is never a bad idea.

Please rate good or bad; and recommendations are appreciated. I know GPU price isn't realistic, but that is the price I last saw it at (assuming sometime in the semi-near future GPU prices fall back to normal).

Also I know keyboards are a very personal choice, but what is a good keyboard? I'm used to chiclet keys and lower profile keyboards.

Save money on CPU/cooler with the 1600 because overclocking on that won't get you that far
You might be able to save on DDR4 but I haven't checked the prices
500GB SSD will help you
550W Bronze and not fully modular are both deal breakers
Get Windows on Kinguin
Why the fuck would you choose 1080p with a 1070 Ti

Still building in the garage, just put the ssd in, couple of steps left

pcpartpicker.com/list/7MKC2R

what about this build?

>no gpu
Im not into gaming atm but sure im thinking of upgrading some time later.

the main purpose for this build is for my uni homework and projects (currently studying systems engineering)

and also im on a very tight budget

CHALLENGE!
Make a pc build on pcpartpicker that you feel is a good modern equivalent of a Tandy 1000 using all modern parts

1300X poses no advantage over 1200
Don't buy X370 what the fuck are you doing
4GB of memory is nothing in this decade
Ryzen CPUs need video cards to run a system, the APUs in February will not. Wait until then if you don't want to buy a card.
A 1TB drive for $70 is a lot and if you can get an SSD you should
Very basic searching and intuition tells me that the PSU is probably no good
In conclusion, buy a laptop or a prebuilt PC and save yourself the trouble.

When will GPU prices go back to normal?

Sometime before 2020, after Volta if we are lucky.

when genocide of crypto miners becomes legal

>Save on Cooler
Noted.
>DDR4
I looked up the QVL for the Mobo and that is good for it.
>500GB SSD
I only really need it as a boot drive and for some applications, nothing huge, so it the 500GB really worth?
>PSU Bronze and not modular
That I considered upgrading, but price was a concern. Noted.
>1080p for 1070ti
High refresh rate monitor that I couldn't get consistent framerates at or over 144 without at least that in my research, especially wont do it at 1440p.

pcpartpicker.com/list/hc7cZ8

Upgrading my server. Any reason not to get any of these certain parts? I know there are new APU's coming out, but I have no use for them as this server is entirely about storage, media sharing, and a shared printer.

Would you change anything?

>Kinguin

Also, is this site trustworthy? Never used it. Have used G2A and it looks exactly the same...

I'm working on OCing my build, and it looks like performance gains are pretty lackluster.
r5 1600 stock: cinebench score 1134
r5 1600 OCed to 3.9: cinebench score of 1279
Is this a typical result?

Yea that's about normal. You can only gain so much single thread performance from an OC. You CPU is still only 6c/12t. For reference, my Bone stock R7-1700X gets 1420 in cinebench.

You should measure your performance in something like 3Dmark's physics test. Your overall FPS may go up.

If memory is on QVL, I suppose it's ok to buy.
500GB is better in terms of price/GB, and with it you at the very least get the ability to load misc files faster.
For PSU I would check out 650 or 750W gold options, because it will be more efficient and probably quieter at load.
The monitor is just such a sink when you could get a comparable 1440p IPS option for not too much more and either choose to play at lower settings or run at 1080p.
No sense spending more on a board than that APU, so get a Pro4 or tomahawk on sale for $50-60, and this advice goes for the upcoming APUs, also.
Also if you do wait it out for the 2200G your life will be better
Also you could save $9 on memory if you get a 1x8 instead of a 2x4
And get Windows on Kinguin
I haven't heard of any licences being revoked, and it seems to work out in general.

Not that user, but if I can't find an specific RAM memory in the mobo's QVL, but I see a 2400 version of the same memory, is it safe to assume that a 2666 one would work?

>500GB is better in terms of price/GB, and with it you at the very least get the ability to load misc files faster.
I'll consider it, but it is simply more money.
>For PSU I would check out 650 or 750W gold options, because it will be more efficient and probably quieter at load.
So a 550 Gold fan wouldn't be good? or it would constantly be fan on all the time?
>The monitor is just such a sink when you could get a comparable 1440p IPS option for not too much more and either choose to play at lower settings or run at 1080p.
But scaling down from Native resolutions have the tendency to blur quite bad since the pixels aren't scaled equivalently, so image quality would tank to get those frames. Also don't IPS panels have higher input lag, on top of being more expensive? It seems that way as far as I have looked.

Thanks for your input ahead of time.

Idk if this is the right thread to ask this, but do y'all think I need to upgrade my PC? Ive had it awhile. Heres my specs in case its necessary

upgrade by adding another 8gb of ram, but beyond that you should be good for now.

The 1600 at 3.6GHz on all cores compared to 3.9GHz on all cores is a 300MHz increase, or under 10%. Your results reflect that.
Memory problems for me only start to occur past 2933MHz, and if you know how to basically mess with timings you could probably bring that to 3066. I wouldn't lose sleep over it unless it's 3000MHz or more.
A 550W PSU will always be running closer to peak load, and efficiency curves usually favor sone point in the lower to mid range of use. Keep in mind that inefficiency means heat, and therefore noise.
IPS panels have higher lag, but the people who care about that are also buying 240hz displays and usually dislike adaptive sync. Complete viewing angles and much better color completely make up for a miniscule difference in gtg response.
As for running at 1080p, you could either run in a window or do as I suggested and lower quality, which higher resolution can make up for in my opinion. Also remember that your CPU can hold you back when you are hitting over 100 fps, and performance drops could be worse at 1080p, even with G-SYNC. I'm not saying you can't go with the 1080p monitor, but it is a whole lot to spend when you could pursue other options.

yeah thats what I was thinking, I got myself an HTC Vive and that thing is a processing whore.

Fuck
meant foralso checked

literature is boring music is background noise therr has not been a good movie in the laat 6 months painting takes effort

video games are all that's left

Which Ryzen should I get by the end of the month if I plan on
>gaming+streaming
>possibly video editing
>overclocking with just the multiplier
?

Budget is CAD $notthe1800x

Finished building, all power/cpu/pcei/graphics card/fan/sata for ssd/etc cables are plugged into power supply, power supply is plugged into slot, I turn it on and nothing.

Turn on the PSU.

Any slowdowns you have are likely CPU/memory-based.
Your best course of action is to get an SSD if you're able to transfer Windows to it.
Definitely the 1700, or the 1700X if it's on a particularly good sale.
Make sure PSU is on, make sure your cables are correct. Make sure your video card and memory are making proper contact, and that your video cable is in properly.

>Your best course of action is to get an SSD if you're able to transfer Windows to it.
How hard/risky is that process? Never done something like that before.

Checking cables now, might have been a bad outlet. Will try to turn the PSU on again once that's changed.

Well, im used to 1080p screens, so if i can get 144fps in a fair amount of games on it, i think i'd like that. And if I ever feel i need that higher resolution, by the time id want to upgrade i would have saved up enough to buy a 1440p monitor and then use the 1080p as a second side monitor, or just plain sell it. I really strongly considered 1440 (a Dell S24 with gsync), but after looking at benchmarks, 1440p didn't look like it would perform consistently.

SeeI'm a fucking retard, I completely forgot to utilize the mobo power button to power it on. It's on now and all fans are spinning (graphics card fan isn't because no load on it). Thanks anons.

I've never done it on 7, but there should be easy ways of doing it so long as you keep the same motherboard.
You may have had the front panel power button connector on the wrong pins. Check that out and fix it

Nah I didn't I'm just a retard and only hit the PSU power button and not the front panel power button. All fans are spinning and seem to be working

I don't think that many people are delidding that I'm comparing it to because they usually mention it.

It's winter here so if anything my temperatures should be lower.

I suppose the NHU12S isn't top of the line but I think it's supposed to be as good as the typical 30 dollar Cooler Master Evo or something

Alright, any suggestions on an SSD? I already plan on getting two 8GB sticks and upgrade my CPU at some point this year

if you plan to upgrade the cpu, you may as well upgrade the entire platform. AMD Ryzen is the go to right now. but you have to deal with high DDR4 ram prices.

I've heard great things about the samsung 850 evo SSD platform, just slapped one in my first build today.

AMD looks sub $300 which doesnt seem too bad
Thanks Ill write that down

recommended SSDs:
Crucial MX300 and BX300
Samsung 850 Evo
Sandisk SSD Plus and Ultra II
PNY CS1311

The best bang for the buck CPU wise right now is the Ryzen 5 1600. The second gen refresh launches in April. Look for the6 core/12 Thread Ryzen chip as it'll likely be the best for the money.

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16819113435
Like this one?

I don't know how many people with the 8700K delid, but it's certainly more than any other consumer CPU.
People in basements or in rooms without direct heating could have lower temps than you, so don't rule that out.
No way in hell is a 212 Evo going to cool an 8700K at full load. Unless you know otherwise, a safe guess is a D14/240mm AIO or better.
The 850 Evo is popular for a reason, but if you sort by price per gigabyte you may get more economic results, if only by 10 or 20 dollars.
If you upgrade your CPU, keep in mind that 7 OEM licences are bound to your motherboard, at least from what I know.

That would be it. The current golden chip. The included cooler is also rated at 95W while the chip is 65W and unlocked, so the included cooler can handle a moderate overclock to like 3.7/3.8 Ghz. first gen Ryzen CPUs like that tend to hit an overclocking wall around 4.0 Ghz.

>212 Evo going to cool an 8700K at full load
not even at stock clocks?

So whats the biggest difference between this one and the one I have now?

The i5 4460? The biggest difference is the multi-threading. IPC-wise, they're pretty similar but hving those CPU resources is majorly helpful in newer games.

Here. watch this.
youtube.com/watch?v=4RMbYe4X2LI

and this.
youtube.com/watch?v=mbK0n5FjvhI

Wont I need a new motherboard as well?

If it did get to full boost, it would be teetering on thermal throttling. Unless your case has godlike airflow it would likely downclock within a few minutes of stress.

How do you guys deal with GPU sag? Just leave it hanging? Or support it somehow

yes. AMD motherboards, currently, for Ryzen are as follows
A320: entry level. no overclocking support.
B350: mid-range. overclocking for both CPU and memory. spring for more expensive models with better VRMs Some boards also support AMD Crossfire
X370: Equivalent to Intel's Z270/Z270 motherboards. Ehtusiast level. Has an extra 2 PCIe lanes compared to the B350, and support SLI as well as crossfire.

AMD Ryzen also only supports DDR4ram, so you'll have to bite the bullet on that since prices are outrageous for DDR4 at the moment.
Ryzen also loves fast ram, with 3000 or 3200 mhz recommended.

Thanks for all the help and suggestions I wrote this down on a notepad. I don't think I'll get the new CPU and motherboard yet, Ill go ahead and grab two 8GB RAM DDR3s and see if that helps. I'll save up and upgrade everything else later this year when I'll have more money

>Memory problems for me only start to occur past 2933MHz,
mind posting your cpu/mobo/ram? what kind of issues do you run into past 2933Mhz?