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Asking "Hey guys, what's your opinion on x?" is frowned upon.
Wireless is frowned upon.
Headset requests are frowned upon.
Isolation ≠ Noise cancellation
If you dislike a headphone suggestion, try giving a better suggestion to whomever asked instead of going "hurr, brand x sucks"
>Sup Forums wiki headphone FAQ:
wiki.installgentoo.com
Previous thread:
Other urls found in this thread:
amazon.com
ebay.com
amazon.com
amazon.co.uk
youtube.com
play.google.com
itunes.apple.com
microsoft.com
innerfidelity.com
wiki.installgentoo.com
twitter.com
I'm re-posting this because I posted it at the very end of the last thread
>The right side of my 702's just fucking died 30 mins after I declared that they would be my end game headphones with my current EQ setting etc etc.
>I've spray painted the center circle black and I don't have the outer sleeve to the box so I can't even send them back. I wanted these fuckers for ten years but I can't force myself to buy another pair after this shit.
>Every other headphone feels uncomfortable compared to these so I'm thinking about buying a different, more expensive pair of akg's right now from amazon (and not chinese made)
>Any recommendations?
I'm now thinking the akg k712pro which costs £180 on ebay, can anyone tell me if all 712pros are made in Austria?
>Budget 150
>Location usa
>Source wireless
>Preferred type of headphone earbuds
>Comfort level stays in while running
>Preferred music electronic, old stuff like queen, fat hawaiian guy singing somewhere over the rainbow
>Past earbuds $20 skullcandys that break in a couple months
Whenever I go running the cord ends up yanking my headphones out or they just fall out
Is there a dac amp with treble/mid/bass controls?
So exactly how good is the isolation in the 7506?
I was planning on getting M50x but anons have mentioned that it might be too bass-ey for me.
Bad luck user, maybe don't mod your headphones next time.
I have 712's and they're great, afaik made in Austria too.
Integrated amps sometimes have them, especially if you're willing to spend a bit more, but no for the most part cheap dac/amps for use with computers do not have a hardware EQ.
Any recommended portable players?
Something >= 50
For less than $50? Nope.
If you stretch your bux a lil' further, Fiio M3 might be good with the current firmware. Otherwise, go up to $100 for either a Sansa Clip+ or Fiio X1.
Otherwise if you're hard on price, some people say this is the best at the bottom of the pack: amazon.com
>Budget
~350 max USD
>location
USA
>Source
A/V receiver.
>Preferred type
Over-ear
>Open or Closed
Either or
>Comfort Level
Cosy enough to wear for a few hours.
>Preferred tonal balance
I'd like them to be accurate, but not cold completely cold and analytical, instruments should have feeling and impact.
>Music
Post-rock, Shoegaze, Ska.
>Past Headphones
Currently wearing HD668B's only headphone to date.
>Closed back
Audio Technica ATH-M50's
>Open back
Philips SHP9500
Senheisser HD598
HD600 or HE400S
Forgot to link post.
The HD600s and HE400S are also good options that user recommended.
I'd also add the Philips X2 Fidelios.
Got a friend who wants a low-price headset.
Are there any really low price over-ear headphones that have a mic input? I really want to recommend that boompro to plug in (to reduce wiring), but Superlux does not seem to make that style.
FiiO M3
ruizu x02. like $17, 20 hours battery life, decent software considering. not as good as clip+ with rockbox for software but it's much cheaper and easy to find.
hyperx cloud, cheapest model you can find is fine. it's a pro80
SRH 840.
is that just the lighting or are those gold
Do you guys think the shp9500's will sell for below $60 anytime soon? I'm tempted to buy them but I'm hesitant to.
Amazon UK has HD650s for 233GBP shipped atm, is that a good price or about standard?
very good price relative to US prices because its ~$350
Okay that's what I thought, I'm in Canada and that seems like it's as good as it gets. Ordered, thanks.
Stretch a bit, AGPTEK IMP
It's 60 GBP but amazing value for the price
Grado SR125e vs Beyer DT990
Vidya and Rock plus classic Metal
Which one?
It has to be one of these two.
Speakerphone has some interesting new measurements up.
Q is the width of the filter. A high Q value creates a very narrow filter which only affects a small range of frequencies. A low Q does the opposite. EQ APO has a visualization to show this in effect when you tweak the Q values. For test purposes create a filter with the same amplitude (say 5dB) but of different Q (e.g. Q 1 and Q 10) and see the visualization of what is going on. With low Q values you can tweak the overall tonality and fix larger areas such as rolled off bass with just a few or even a single filter instead of doing a chain of high Q filters. High Q filters are great for fixing sharp resonances which are common in the high frequencies. The filter type selection(shelving, peaking etc) and their bandwidth adjustment(Q) is what makes parametric equalizer so effective if used correctly. Without touching those you might as well use a multi band graphic EQ but it's nowhere near as powerful.
Any equalizer. If you are on Windows, Equalizer APO is a system wide parametric equalizer. The bass and treble knobs found in some amplifiers are usually just very simple high shelf and low shelf filters with a fixed S.
Gold.
the only akgs that are still made in austria are the 65th annies and k812s.
I've had SoundMAGIC E10's for about a year now and they're starting to crap out. Is it worth trying to find something a little above in price given they usually don't last a huge amount of time? It's especially annoying since I'm in Australia and it's hard to find good pairs.
Minidisc and Addicted to Audio, lad.
Can probably try something like IM50 which are pretty sturdy albeit on the large side.
Never heard of them. To add to , I was considering getting something like the Etymotic Research HF5 from ebay for $160 but as the SoundMAGIC E10's is the best I've ever had, I don't know if it's really worth the money especially when the cables crap out on you.
I need to stop forgetting shit and making more posts. I use this all with my phone, rather than a specialized portable music player if that makes a difference.
try repairing them? do you have a soldering iron? if you can't find a suitable cable for it use ethernet wire or buy a earphone from the dollar shop and use those wires.
if you get those. the ety p to s adapter is a must have!
Those two are both completely different in both sound signature and fit.
I know they are. My choices are either going for a much more expensive pair like that one which appears to be good, or something more similar to the pricerange on the E10's.
There's no guarantee that you will enjoy the signature of the HF5 or the comfort, for that matter.
They are very good, don't get me wrong but if you want to take the risk, it's your money. The two are far too different to just say that they are perfect for you.
so the he300 pretty much blew ass. why are they bringing it back as the 350 on massdrop? hopefully it actually turns out decent measured
to make loads of money on a hyped product with no risk of returns? just like all the trash audiophile drops massdrop puts out
Talk about shit luck, user. I'm sorry
Is there any reason to use dedicated player for music instead of phone?
Sound quality?
Do you really think buying something that has "Made in Austria" -sticker makes them quality? Why stick with AKG? K712 Pros don't sound alike and they are made in Slovakia nowadays iirc. Most likely it's just a disconnected solder point which you have here and very easy to fix if so.
For me, it's because of the hiss from SE535.
Not using my phone's battery is a plus too, I guess.
Better battery life, dedicated buttons for playback control, more memory etc. Sound quality maybe but this depends on the phone you have and the headphones you use. In many cases a smartphone is more than adequate at driving headphones but there are models with poor headphone outputs. However this goes to DAPs too, not all of them are good despite being dedicated music players.
Some controversial choices there, but if you absolutely had to, I guess the Grado since it's good with rock and doesn't have the piercing treble of beyer's remorse. Only thing is that for gaming you'll pretty much want to swap the earpads out right away, unless your ears are made of steel, those Grado pads can be rough.
>I guess the Grado since it's good with rock
>and doesn't have the piercing treble of beyer's remorse
Stop posting any time.
Buying pic related, Klipsch Reference II R-15M, and I need an amplifier for it. I want to spend around $50. Is the SLML SMSL SA-36A a decent amplifier or do I need to search for something better and pricier?
I know this is /hpg/ but I didn't want to start a whole new thread for it.
Thank you very much for the explanation. What I'm trying to fix through EQ is just the rolled-off bass of my K702, from 20 Hz to 70Hz. My intention is to put the highest peak at 20Hz and progressively diminish the gain till I reach 0dB at 80 Hz. At this point I feel like I need some more explanations on the working of APO:
1) is there a mathematic way to establish how Q will affect the frequency response? I mean, how do I know if Q is too high or too low? Just by trying things out?
2) why does the dB gain at 20 Hz is 10 dB on the parametric EQ, whereas it's 15 dB on the graph? Which one tells the truth?
oh god this post makes me want to pull my eyeballs out of their sockets
someone please help this man, my carpal tunnel points have been used for the day
Want to upgrade my ATH-M30Xs which were a gift and are starting to break, am absolute retard when it comes to sound shit.
>Budget
up to 200 USD
>Location
The US
>Source
generic PC sound things
>Preferred type of headphone
Full-sized
>Open or closed
Closed would be preferred, but I can live with open if it's really the better option for me
>Comfort level
Need something comfy, I probably spend way too much time with headphones on
>Preferred music
shitty metal, shitty j-pop, but in practice I want them to be decent for everything because I don't really limit myself to what I listen
>Past headphones
Shitty gaymen headsets, M30Xs
Removable/replaceable cable would be nice, the one on the M30Xs gets really tangled and makes me want to throw them into the ground sometimes, would like to avoid that with my next pair.
Someone last thread recommended DT770s, but from what I can gather it doesn't seem like my relatively weak on-board audio will do too well with the 80 or 250Ohm version
>Budget
$200USD max (soft limit)
>Location
Australia
>Source
Computer
>Preferred type of headphone
Either
>Open or closed
Closed
>Comfort level
Maximum
>Past headphones
Haven't owned anything of note, but have tried some other headphones. ATH M50s were fine, I think they even had a coil cable which is nice. Can't remember hearing anything wrong with them, they clamped a little hard iirc and the pads didn't seem very high quality but that's about all I remember. BD T1 I found to be comfy, but I'm not a fan of open because it's pretty limiting, also they were big. Didn't help me score any higher in ABX though. HD800 I didn't mind, T1 sounded nicer and was comfier plus HD800 looks ugly...
As above coiled cables are nice, also removable cables are good too.
I don't know that much about headphones and my ears aren't that great, so comfort is #1 priority really, beyond that I listen to a range of music, plus I game and use voice chat. Any advice is appreciated.
AKG K553 Pro Studio are on sale on massdrop for $145 so that's what prompted me to check this thread.
>Budget
I'm a poor ass motherfucker (student). So cheaper is better. There is no hard limit though, in case the cheap options simply aren't worth it. I am getting tax refunds in a few weeks and if need be I can go for a few months without, so money from my summer job starts coming in.
>Location
Finland.
>Source
Mainly for listening on the go with my phone. A lot of the music will be spotify stream quality.
>Preferred type of headphone
I want in-ears, mainly because of noise cancellation and small size.
>Comfort level
Don't care too much, cheap price and sound quality are infinitely more important to me. I tend to adjust to new headphones very fast anyways, not usually a problem.
>Preferred tonal balance
>Preferred music
In general very varied, but mostly Heavy Metal, Hard Rock, Thrash Metal, Classic Rock, but also some electronic music (like fatboy slim). Not very bassy music in general, I guess
>Past headphones
Right now I have Koss Porta Pros, which have pretty good sound quality for the price, but too bassy and the lack of noise cancellation makes them impractical. Also they are showing signs of dying.
>Do you really think buying something that has "Made in Austria" -sticker makes them quality?
Not exactly but when one of the drivers from your chinese made headphones completely dies for no reason it kind of makes you think. Anyway i'm going to open them up later. If they can't be easily fixed i'm buying a pair of k12 pros.
The K712 Pro are worse than the K702 sound-wise, they're more expensive and they're made in Slovakia, which doesn't imply that they have better build quality than chinese AKG. It sounds like your K702 has a bad soldering in the right cup. You can fix this problem pretry easily.
>Budget
50 USD
>location
My house
>Source
My mom's.
>Preferred type
Blondes, nurses
>Open or Closed
I keep my options open
>Comfort Level
Sittin in my chair
>Preferred tonal balance
Whatever you pick
>Music
Radio
>Past Headphones
Don't remember
>1) is there a mathematic way to establish how Q will affect the frequency response? I mean, how do I know if Q is too high or too low? Just by trying things out?
Besides finding it on Wikipedia or one of the dozens of articles, books, and class notes on the subject?
The most convenient way to describe Q as it applies here is to say that refers to the frequency selectivity of the filter. A higher Q is more restrictive as to what frequency range it affects.
Q can be defined as: center frequency/bandwidth(-3dB cutoff).
>2) why does the dB gain at 20 Hz is 10 dB on the parametric EQ, whereas it's 15 dB on the graph? Which one tells the truth?
Both of them are likely true. Filters overlap and add, so that the response is the sum of all the filters. For simplicity just make a large single filter at 20 Hz with a lower Q, 0.7 for example.
Maybe just ditch PEACE if you don't get it, EQAPO stock has a graphical interface and also expresses filters in octave width, if that makes it easier.
Just create a very low Q filter at the lowest point of the response you want to alter like a peaking filter of +6 dB Q 0.7 at 20 Hz. You could create a low shelving filter with a slope per octave matching that to the roll off in your headphones but I think the peaking filter is easier.
>1)
Yes there is.
>how do I know if Q is too high or too low?
What do you want to achieve? Just fix the roll off? You could just reference some measuremets here and match the EQ to those. Right now your EQ is fixing the roll off and adding rather large bass boost.
A better way to EQ is to get some logarithmic sine sweeps which you play back. You listen to volume changes as the pitch goes up, sudden peaks or dips in the response. You apply EQ to correct those and repeat the process until the volume stays constant or closely so even if the frequency changes. Regardless of how you created the EQ, you could always try a sine sweep tone for checking that everything is in order.
>2)
The width of the filters makes them overlap each other. Adding multiple wide filters adds up the gain. Both tell the truth but the visualization displays the sum of all filters hence that's what you should look for.
Lower your preamp. Your preamplifier should be low enough to keep the sum of all filters below full scale volume.
I recently purchased the Beyerdynamic DT250 80ohms from both recommendation from audio shop and from here.
While I really like it there are two significant drawbacks to it:
- 3m coiled/ straight cable. (6 pin input makes it impossible to find shorter cables) i realized how stupid I look when i went to university.
- construction seems a bit weak even if it is "made in germany"
Is there anything similar to the DT250 in both its comfort and excellent sound stage?
>budget
500 AUD
>location
Australia
>Source
S7 Edge and E10K
>Preferred type
Closed circumaural
>comfort
as good or better than dt250. so 8/10 +. if exceptional sound but not comfy, am willing to buy new earpads
>past headphones
MR7056 (sounded boring? disliked fucking coiled 3m cable), M50X (disliked due to heavy bass muddling music), ESW9A (was pretty good).
>preferred tonal balance
neutral or warm.
Was looking at the MSR7 with velour ear pads. Any other recommendations?
For some reason the local audio shop recommended against PM3s (citing them inferior than $200 headphones).
Thank you very much, that is the answer I was looking for. Can you recommend me any sine sweep I can listen to or any reliable site havinf sine sweep tones?
Audiocheck.net has a generator for them.
>The K712 Pro are worse than the K702 sound-wise
In what way?
>Porta Pros
>Showing signs of dying
LIFETIME WARRANTY MANG
Also, hate to say it, but most IEMs on the inexpensive end tend to be pretty bassy/dark. I'm gonna recommend Soundmagic E10s or TT Pods.
Etymotic MK5 if you aren't bothered by the deep fit. Ety Kids is also really good for the price and those generally go for cheaper.
Alright, thank you so very much.
Too bassy and coloured
I'm a total audio noob. I recently bought a pair of HiFiMan H-400i. I quickly realized I needed something to drive them. I went to my guitar center and the guy sold me this.PreSonus HP4 4-Channel Compact Headphone Amplifier amazon.com
I'm not sure if it's just me, but it seems like bass becomes very distorted when I put the volume at above 50%. Can anyone explain?
>$150 (a cheap one would be fine though)
>Indonesia (Southeast Asia)
>Wired
>On-ear/Over-ear headphone
>Closed (for blocking airplane sounds)
>Comfortable for long-term use
>Any kinds of music, as long as it's good
>Sennheiser MX170 :(
Gonna go abroad in a few weeks, need a good noise-cancelling/noise-isolation headphone for blocking airplane sounds.
Could be the amplifier clipping because of high power draw.
My k612s just died, shall I buy another pair for get some DT770's
Well I used to EQ my 702s to give them more bass but not full nigger bass. I might actually like them unless they're too over the top
K702 bass is lacking only below 80 Hz, at least according to my taste. The K712 is an expensive K702 with unnecessary mid-bass and less mids.
If I've completely lost sound in one side is it worth a repair or should I just buy another pair of headphones
youtube.com
Daily reminder to always use a bass test. If you can't clearly hear with Gucci Mane is saying here, your headphones may be broken.
That's 60 bucks.
s-stop this they are already on the way.
At the very least they look better design wise and they have memory foam pads, I've always wanted the pads on the 702's to be a little bit softer, they'd be perfect.
If they clearly sound worse especially after using an EQ I guess i'll send them back...and buy 702's again, meh.
>60% off $1000 headphones
I'm tempted, but something tells me this is probably not a good idea.
>Budget
$60-$70
>Location
Malta
>Source
PC for gaming and spotify
>Preferred type of headphone
umm, full sized
>Open or closed
Either
>Comfort level
High since I'll wear them 8+ hours a day
>Preferred tonal balance
idk
>Preferred music
Anything desu, Pop, Hip-hop sometimes, EDM,Bass Songs
>Past headphones
Currently have Razer Carcharias. They re comfy and audio is good
>Side Notes
I don't want a Headset and I dont want it USB
You know it's not. Don't do it lad.
But at such a high price they must be good, right? That's how it all works, right?
>Budget
$300 though a little flexible if something is truly worth the money. Like something that won't fucking break on me within two years.
>Location
USA
>Source
Onboard
>Preferred type of headphone
Full-size
>Open or closed
Open
>Comfort level
Needs to be very comfy as I wear them all day
>Preferred tonal balance
Like exaggerated bass, of the previous headphones I had I liked the V-shaped sound of my DT 990s the most
>Preferred music
drum and bass, but all kinds, really
>Past headphones
hd555 (very comfy but broke easily), dt990 (loved them but they also broke), k240 (comfy, lacking bass, dog chewed them up) mdr-v6 (current cans, hate them)
Contemplating just buying another pair of DT 990s but I'm wondering if there's anything else that I would like.
Nope, I bought a pair of hd650's and the difference between them and the akg 702's was tiny to me. once you get to a certain point (lets say akg 702's) then the returns are fucking tiny, especially when you can tweak headphones with an eq. Point is I couldn't keep the 650's, they cost £240 and sounded incredibly similar to my akgs.
The worst one is people buying expensive dacs (not amps) what the absolute fuck is that about.
The 702 are too bright and coloured
Goes for a lot of things really. I'm sure at that price they are just for looks, and probably used material that didn't necessarily need to be used.
I just happen to see them as I was looking at new headphones since my current ones have the jack bent. They still work, but I swear I've been hearing bits of static now and then.
got a K99 around november
equalized it with Equalizer APO and SineGen
it's bretty gud, hurts the ears a bit
Get a new pair, just maybe no $400 or whatever lol, why not spend $200?, it's still a lot of money. Normies at my brothers workplace thought he was insane for spending £100 on dt770's.
Sony 7506 or CAL (or just portapros since I cannot think of any decent open full sized headphones for your budget)
You sound like a cankiller. Perhaps you should check out the X2 for their durability though it may not work best for your preferred music.
I'd rate the HD 650 over the K702 any day of the week but the problem with expensive audio gear is mostly the negative returns. You pay more for a worse product in a lot of cases.
Which model? Price is utterly irrelevant.
This is really common and it's usually just one solder disconnected.
The thing is that I was testing the 650's on their own andusing an eq with my 702's, they sounded similar but maybe the bass was a bit more extended on the 650's. Straight out the box the 650's did sound clearly better than the 702's but they were uncomfortable and the headband at that price is just a no. I just couldn't keep them, althugh it's a shame I never got to test them properly with an EQ.
Price often does not reflect quality.
innerfidelity.com
> for years foobar2000 devs didn't want to port to OSX/Linux because it uses windows functionalities too deeply in the source code and how it works
> refuse to release source code so people could port it themselves
> android is completely ok to port to though
Hi /hpg/ fellow!
Recently I read a scary story about how a guy got tinnitus from listening to music/everything on headphones.
Should I be concerned?
I always try to keep the volume down.
You're not going to develop any hearing problems unless you're a dumbass teenager who blasts music full volume using IEMs.
Sound device here is irrelevant. IEMs or loudspeakers, both equally damaging if you play your music back too loud and for too long.
>I always try to keep the volume down.
All you need to do. Some people with tinnitus I know are bothered with well isolating headphones because they can hear the tinnitus more easily while with open backs the tinnitus supposedly blends into the environmental noises like hum of the PC.
Is the ATH-m50 still the best general price/quality ratio?
No.
Then what is? My Koss PortaPros died on me. Thinking about going with the ATH m50 or MDR v6
Hi /hpg/. I finally get the headphones I asked here long time ago and set it up everything.
Can I ask on some guidelines to Equalizers and that stuff?
I guess I will have to tweak my source, right?
