/mkg/ - mechanical keyboards general

Everything you like is a meme edition

>Buyer's template for the unenlightened:
pastebin.com/33S1gVkG
Where to Buy:
>pastebin.com/8Yku80VL
FAQs:
>pastebin.com/M5w7QtKp

You are new and want our advice? Use buyers template
>pastebin.com/33S1gVkG

Keyset wiki
>keypuller.com

Other urls found in this thread:

mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1238
mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1496
amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Multicolor-Keyboard-SGB-3020-KKMF1-US/dp/B00N93K5I2
logicalincrements.com/mouse
builder.swillkb.com/
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

...

Thoughts on Royal Kludge?

Need moar memes.

Ducky one for €140. Is it a good deal?

what is this form factor called/?

Noob here.

Those who have a 60% keyboard, do you miss having arrow keys?

I was thinking about getting a Vortex Pok3r (no arrow keys)

mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1238

So I was thinking about the Leopold FC660 because it has arrow keys and a delete key

mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1496

Thoughts?

Tenkeyless.

thanks

> There are people here who don't use a 2 split space-bar on cherry reds.

Just kys famalam.

>do you miss having arrow keys?
yes
the best set up for arrow keys i've found is the HHKB's

the pok3r is just arranged like complete garbage

I used to be really into mechanical keyboards but now they interested me not. After you try blues, topre and buckling, you've kinda seen it all. The click/clack is a meme and any switch that intentionally keeps or adds it is a meme. Buckling spring is cool because it's just a side affect of the design and is necessary for operation. But cherry switches suck ass.

In my experience you need arrow keys if you aren't a complete fucking memer. It's one extra key to hold for arrow keys and that's one too many. I would also recommend a numpad but I haven't missed it as much as arrow keys.

So basically if you have extra money and like ricing your keyboard, go ahead. Otherwise I'd recommend picking up a Rosewill / Corsair mechanical or Apple Wired and call it a day.

Apologies for poor engrish

Ordered these from china for my K70 I got in recently.

Why the fuck are they $15 for 125 "keyboard" o rings from wasd?

high quality rubber formulated for keyboards
anything else will actually damage your keycaps and switches

Because you're gay

Who /reds/ here???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????

anyone know a cheap solid maybe no lights ps/2 keyboard available in australia? any switch type is fine
ducky USB meme is rather underwhelming and can't even enter altcodes since the numpad is a separate entity to windows

Can someone find me clear PBT Keycaps that is compatible with Corsair K70 RGB?

Space invader switch master race. With the keycaps off you can actually see the two pieces of metal that touch to register a keystroke. You can even activate them with a paperclip if you want.

S
N
A
K
E

OIL

idk
i just made that up

>seen it all
you missed cherry ML

I've been thinking of getting a mechanical keyboard for a while, currently considering a unicomp because I leaned to type on buckling springs and it would be nice and nostalgic. but I've heard that blues are just as good. anyone have advice?

If I went with blues, then I could get a tenkeyless and rice the hell out of it. which do you guys recommend for that purpose?

What's the quietest type of mechanical keyboard?

filco

topre

MX Blues are gross. They have the worst tactile/clicky design. Cherry utterly fails at tactile switches. Buckling springs are okay. ALPS are good. Montereys are good. Space invaders are good. Basically everything but MX Blues.

*clicky I meant not tactile in the third sentance

so the blues aren't really clicky like buckling springs are? I've never typed on cherry switches before, just springs and domes. what I want is that feedback you get when typing on an old model M, that cha-kung as you press down the key. it's so damn satisfying.

>what I want is that feedback you get when typing on an old model M, that cha-kung as you press down the key. it's so damn satisfying.
yeah well you'll probably have to buy a unicomp then
you could get a cherry switch tester to get a feel of what they're like

>unicomp
>2 key roll over
why don't those cunts just take the buckling spring keys and put them on a pcb that can do nkro?

because it's not a pcb

Yeh, definitely need buckling springs then if you want exactly that and aren't up for anything new. Why not just buy a used model M for $20? I've had like dozens. I usually find them around looking for other stuff and sell em for $20 on CL. I would sell you one of mine but I only have an ambra im keeping and a wheelwriter right now. The blues sure do click but they aren't very graceful or accurate. They do a silly little jig and it feels bad compared to any other switch really IMO. The buckling spring is really simple it is just a spring that buckles and activates when it buckles and puts the hammer down.

What is /mkg/'s opinion on Nan Tan? I found a KB-6651, it is obviously old but in decent condition.

Did you try any other tactile cherries other than blues?

Why doesn't anyone make smooth PBT caps? Can't think of a single set that's not textured.

tiny imperfections are more noticeable in a finish that's supposed to be perfectly smooth.
PBT shrinks pretty severely on cooling...

a) Model M is a membrane, Model F was PCB
b) USB doesn't have NKRO anyway

why is /mkg/ so dead

why would you even want smooth pbt?
the reason to get pbt is to get a textured surface the doesn't shine

there hasn't really been anything new in a while.

Because mechanical keyboards are placebo

Not enough people doing anything interesting that would foster discussion, and there hasn't been anything new and exciting in the mech market either.

Not that i mind the lack of activity that much, shitposting is lower than ever and the thread actually serves as a good hub of information and discussion, it's just that there's not that much of it.

>that picture
shit, now i want to do this.

Green and White

Do it, just make sure to use some soft wood that's easy to work with and doesn't splinter all over the place. I went with maple.

Wood is cheap and easily available and it was only four hours of actual work to get it to pic related. Though having some power tools will make your life easier.

Tactile/Clicky switches I meant

i actually have all tools i need, I'll probably use pearwood, birch, applewood or cherrywood.
thinking about it cherry would be really nice just for the name.
maybe i have time in a few weeks.

to add to it, do you just put some low keyboard in there or do you plan on disassembling one you have and making it fit?

>$20 model M

if only that were realistic, user. on ebay they're all like $50+ and there are none on craigslist in my state. I was in goodwill the other day and I asked if they ever get old keyboards, and the guy told me they go straight to ebay.

Sounds nice, I'll still have to find some use for the second piece of wood.

Keep us posted.

Going to put this dampened cream alps 60% that I made quite some time ago in there.

Though I'll have to fix the wires at the bottom first, everything that's hooked up to the teensy is a huge clusterfuck that takes up far more space than it should, as you can probably guess by the offset in the upper left corner.

you desperately need an inexpensive mill. hot damn.

>you desperately need an inexpensive mill
Oh yes, a CNC machine would be wonderful.

Though I'm still far from having the money for that kind of money. Maybe the electrical engineering (also has general engineering) will have some equipment that students can use.

polishing turds is cheap, it just requires a ton of time....
originally a $99 HF mill.

i just wanted to tell you that it's hilarious how english works and leave this here.

That doesn't look very ergonomic

The peasants spoke Germanic dialects, the royals spoke French, the clergy spoke Latin, the barbarians spoke Gaelic, and the fucking Nords invaded on a regular basis. It's all you need to know.

Interesting. Thanks a lot for letting me know, googling around it does indeed look like there a whole lot of not all to expensive CNC options around which don't take up all too much space either. I'll keep it in mind for when it actually becomes a viable option.

Yeah, this kind of shit doesn't make looking for equipment locally any easier.

shitposting on motospeed inflictor, blues are too damn satisfying

thoughts amazon.com/Cooler-Master-Multicolor-Keyboard-SGB-3020-KKMF1-US/dp/B00N93K5I2
i am on a tight budget

>ricer gaymen shit
wew. there is better stuff in that range.
do you know what kind of switches you like yet? what kind of keyboard? 60%? 75?

Greens are closer to buckling. Still not a perfect match though.

Blues are way to light.

not really, right now i am using a wireless rapoo keyboard who does just fine i am not really picky about the keyboard

forgot to say that the size doesn't matter

I was shocked at the lack of shitposting over the new HHKB BT.

Kindas eems to be proof most HHKB users just fell for the meme and don't really care about mechanical keyboards.

If that's what you're looking for, then it's probably quite ok. But it's not mechanical if that's what you're asking.

i really recommend testing a few switches before settling on anything. do you have a store near you with different keyboards to test out? for that price i'd go for a cherry g84 but that's just me.

How much is a difference between 45g topre and 55? Are there any 55g topre tkl?

HHKB shitposting has died down in general and people here don't really care a whole lot for bluetooth keyboards in general, so I'm not sure why'd you expect any significant amount of shitposting in regards to the same old HHKB with an ugly bulge in the back.

>and don't really care about mechanical keyboards
heh, you're a funny one

i could test some keys and thanks for the tip also do you know decent mouse that is kind a cheap?
i know it's not mechanical but well this is the only decent keyboard thread on Sup Forums but still thanks for your opinion

what is kind of cheap for you? how do you hold your mouse? do you like trackballs? vertical mice? "normal" mice?
check out the information at the bottom of logicalincrements.com/mouse
they also have some information on keyboards.

55g feels significantly more snappier

About the start rebinding my keys, hoping to move caps lock to somewhere out the way and replace it with super and move the arrow keys to somewhere less painful to reach.

Can anybody explain this ultra-gay keys-crammed-together tenkeyless bullshit to me?

Almost all the keyboard posted here are minis.

...

ideally your hands are parallel to your shoulders, for people that use the mouse as much or more as the keyboard tenkeyless makes more sense. also on a lot of keyboards you can set the numpad keys to other ones with some combination so you are really not missing anything.

can you not move it to wherever?

posting to make this a little less dead

A 60% has all the keys I use, right where I use them. I don't anything else. Plus they look better which makes me happy.

So you need arrows and a numpad. I don't. Your experiences aren't the gold standard.

I don't miss my arrows keys. But you might. Just keep an eye on how you use your computer.

F122 all clean now

Why would you have this? And i don't mean U CANT WRITE but it's so ugly and plain looking. Nothing's on it.

What, is minimalism beneath respectable gentlemen of taste such as yourself?

I mostly hate minimalism. Especially where it doesn't fit, like on keyboards. They are by default very non-minimal. They have dozens of separate elements, even if they are uniformed. And then you force minimalism by removing functional writing on them. But what you get at the end is not minimal, but bland.

>They are by default very non-minimal.
I'm inclined to agree, but the blank look is simply cleaner.

>Force minimalism
I'm not going to pretend to know what this means.

It's hard to find ISO sets, especially when it comes to high quality ones. Finding one with the right legends for a certain language is even worse.
The solution for a touch typist is simple - ditch the legends you don't need and keep the key layout that's been imprinted into your brain since childhood.

So I ordered a magicforce with black switches because my noppo choc died and it was all I can afford right now. I think it's a gorgeous keyboard.

In the future I plan on replacing the keycaps and possibly some other mods. What is a good source of information for the different o rings? They're cheap and I'm interested in ordering some

Debating getting a royal kludge sometime. Also any new snazzy keycaps I should care about?

Anyone here built their own keyboard? I'm toying with the idea, but I wouldn't know what to do about the controller for it. Any idea what to use, and would general keyboard drivers accommodate for it or would I have to write my own?

Yes, hello there.

As a controller you use a teensy 2.0.

You need a plate, switches a case and keycaps. Either you design your own pcb or you wire it by hand.

TMK firmware for all your firmware needs (matt3o has a guide on deskthority, it's quite straighforward business).

I don't think drivers would be any kind of issue, haven't had any myself.

Oh brill. So when you soldered your keyboard together, setup the firmware (did you hit any snags or did it go smoothly), it all worked fairly okay? Have you tried it on multiple systems? I see it's fine on Linux (which is good), you tried it on Windows?

Considering that it was the first time I even dealt with code directly in my life outside of the terminal, I'd say it went quite well.

I was slow as shit in understanding what I'm supposed to do when reading the instructions, and I had to redo some minimal parts of the wiring around the arrow keys since I had it set up in a rather stupid manner at the start.

Firmware-wise it's really simple, I'd say that the largest potential for things being a pain lies in fitting the keymap to your hardware, but there wasn't anything I couldn't solve by just taking a proper look at either the hardware configuration or the code.

It may feel like you have no idea what you're doing at first (at least that's how I felt), but once you start getting knees deep into setting up your firmware you start to understand things quite quickly.

Last round of questions:
How much did the whole thing cost in the end (roughly if you can't remember) - I'm a britbong, so getting ahold of parts will be through ebay alone, making the cost of the project slightly higher, I should imagine.
I plan on making mine an split ergonomic layout, did you design the plans yourself, or did you get yours from somewhere?

I have several of this keyboard. It is very good

Is that with shipping? I got my Ducky One for $104 USD. I'd say its not a good deal unless its the shipping thats fucking you in the ass.

Because anyone who cared about BT could install a third party BT controller for it anyway.

Post 122s

The magicforce keyboard (one from previous pictures) was about 50 bucks.
Teensy another 20.
Had wires and diodes, but both of those things are quite cheap anyway.
I used gaterons on this one, got them from massdrop for something around 24 bucks for 120 switches, price will vary depending on your choice and source of switches.

As for pic related:
20 bucks for the plate (the design was made by a guy in sweden who did a similar thing already) who was so friendly to have it laser cut and send it to me.
20 bucks teensy
Again wires and diodes.
14 bucks for the piece of wood that is now being shaped into the case.
Keycaps and switches were harvested from an old AEK II that I got for free.

I'm also planning to build a split keyboard (UHK style) with RGB underlighting, but I want to design my own PCB, plate and case for that, so I'm holding that off until I'm in my electrical engineering internship later this year and I have the money to afford all that jack.

For plate designs, there's this handy tool, though I didn't ever use it myself
builder.swillkb.com/

Why do you want to put o rings on black switches?