Does anyone here habe any experience on using water cooling that is chilled bellow ambient bellow 0c?
Reason I ask, there's plenty of info and guides on gutting old AC units and creating evaporators dies to mount right on the cpu. What I want to do is purchase i.e 3 sli'd cards with standard water cooling blocks and put them on a chilled loop.
But there isn't much info on using liquid coolant chilled with a phasechange/single stage.
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>water cooling that is chilled bellow ambient bellow 0c?
Dude, I'm almost sure that if you go bellow 0 Celsius degrees, water will freeze. You should rethink your idea.
Forgot to mention, what kinda of materials would we be best for insulting a chilled water loop? I was thinking your typical nylon tubing would just be a condensation magnet. I cove give a shit if it wasn't clear and had to be wrapped wth with neoprene or whatever.
I pretty sure you need to use a coolant that has a very low bolling point like antifreeze/ethelny gycol. Which I think is the same shit that's put into regular water cooling water.
Last time I did WC I used RO/DI (distilled) water and I think I added some kinda anti freeze I don't know I could be wrong.
Pretty sure others on Sup Forums have done extreme cooling before it's just not very common.
Condensation.
Refrigerative cooling is the fastest way to ruin a computer.
Okay it's not the fastest but it's a way.
Condensation is a concern
Liar.
is this going to be a loop for everyday use? Or are you just overclocking for benchmarks sake? Because while chilled loops are OK, they're a bitch and a half to setup for something that will be used all the time. Soft copper tubing instead of tygon tubing. Special fittings for the copper tubing that will fit standard G1/4 ports in mainstream liquid gear. Have to wrap the tubing so condensation doesn't kill everything.
If you're just shooting for Max OC and benches, just get a DICE setup going. Or if you have money, LN2.
No matter what way you go, you'll probably have to fill RAM slots and PCIE slots with dieletric grease to stop ANY condensation from getting in.
There was an user a long time ago running an i7-4960X @ 6.0ghz and his ddr3 running at ridiculous 2.0v and 3400mhz. He had pretty much dipped the entire motherboard in the di-eletric grease.
Everyday use. I'm not going for max OC but definitely a higher then average stable OC then what you find with basic WC.
This sounds like a dumb question but why soft copper over tygon? Wouldn't copper be worse at insulating? I was think something more or less along the lines of some kinda flexible 1/4' pvc tubing and then wrapping that fucker in neoprene or armaflex. That then begs the other question what about the fittings and how to insulate the graphics cards from getting fucked by condensation. I see people using art eraser + some kinda coating on their mobos does that work? My background isn't in tech or computers but in aquariums/marine public systems so that kinda of plumbing to me is rather routine.
Also I'm looking at this case which has the phase changer for the cpu built in it but fucking expensive as hell. I might just get the case with out the built in phase changer.
>ldcooling.com
That case with the phase changer would be ther better option because while more expensive, it saves you a mess of headaches. Up to you though.
As for copper over tygon, I only say that because I was part of a forum where a guy had a chilled loop and tygon would always get brittle over time. He got sick of having to run and rerun parts of the loop if he ever had to take it down for maintenance. And the putty you talk about, i Have no idea what i actually is but it does the same job as the grease I mentioned. Just keeping out the condensation.
What are you running, and do you have extensive overclocking knowledge? Because if not, you'll long run into your max stable OC limit before you run into your cooling limit even if you're only running standard water.
>What are you running, and do you have extensive overclocking knowledge? Because if not, you'll long run into your max stable OC limit before you run into your cooling limit even if you're only running standard water
I had a really shitty WC loop on an evga 480 (I know fire and all) and on the same loop a swiftec CPU block and the pump, reservoir and radiator. Complete with a really shitty Antec case. I will never make that mistake again.
The WC equipment wasn't bad but I had limited knowledge what I was doing back then and had shitty components so it was not a good build by any means
The CPU would have its own direct die Phase change the graphics cards would be on a chilled water cooled loop that I would cool using another phase changer or just a off the shelf chiller.
I ask because you're going to spend a really large chunk of change to cool old and meh hardware. Why not use that money and get a top of the line new GPU, new CPU, and top tier liquid gear? Good EK block for a gtx 1080. EK MX Supremacy CPU block, and overclock as high as you can on standard water.
Just my 2 cent. I mean you're even saying your current loop is garbage because you didn't buy good enough parts. Just buy much better stuff this time around, then decide from there whether you still want to go chlled loop.
Oh I am getting new a system. This would be a slow to the ground up project. Starting with a case and a mobo.
I gave the old system, i7 980, EVGA mobo, 25gb DDR3 and after market heatsinks to my dad.
oh ok. Well then I'd go and ask at someplace like overclockers.com or .net forums. They'd know a hell of a lot more than Sup Forums. Or me for that matter. I'm good with regular WC loops not chilled. I was considering DICE for a while, but decided against it.
That is a sexy case, I would buy one just without that stupid cooling equipment.
Water freezes at 0c, you can't.
Getting close to 0c would be interesting though.
You can just use a different liquid though
Your best bet would be to chill to just above condensation temperature for where you live. Otherwise you have to insulate the whole board to keep it from shorting.
ethynal glycol mixtures work well enough. Aka radiator fluid. Have to get the mixture right though because if the mix is too acidic, it will start to eat the inside of the copper blocks cooling the components.
Viscosity comes into play, you'll have to change pumps and resize tubing depending on what you use. That also means custom cooling blocks.
temperature is part of it. pressure (and volume) are also important
ethylene glycol has a higher freezing point than water, you have to mix them.
>Condensation
is a concern
exactly
any heat you remove from the cpu has to go somewhere. this will end up dumping it back into the case, you still need to get it out. this will only work as well as you can remove heat from the case, if the radiator isn't cooled then the medium won't have lost heat when it changes back again and you won't have any cooling.
if you want to do this properly then what you should do is a water cooling loop with a heat exchanger in the reservoir that runs out to an external cooling system e.g. an air conditioner or something.
add a simple control system that regulates the temperature in the reservoir to room temperature. this stops condensation. there is no point in cooling a cpu, what is important is removing the heat. there is a difference.
I think someone should make this point:
How loud this motherfucker will be?
That's what a Phase changer already does. Phase change is just a fancy way of saying refrigeration/AC, the evaporator (aka the part of the refrigeration system that gets cold) is directly mounted to the CPU. The refrigerant usually a gas with a very low boiling point like Freon or Propane basically boils off in the inside of the evaporator. The evaporator chamber in a phase change cooling system just happens to be the block of copper which is attached to the CPU, so as the chamber decreases in temperature, it absorbs the heat energy from the processor below, lowering its overall temperature as well.
By changing from a liquid to a gas (Hence the name phase change) that heat energy is now carried up to the condenser of the refrigerator and then compressed back to a liquid at the start of the loop.
They aren't as loud as AC unit or refrigerators if you have a good compressor and it's properly pressurized. Most of the noise in a AC would be the fan on both the evaporator part and the condenser.
The people here who are saying water freezes at 0c, and forgetting about the pressure/temperature relationship of any liquid. Water is generally a bad idea to use as refrigerant because it expands like a mother fucker when turned into vapor. Unless you are talking about chilling water similar to a chiller using a heat exchanger then I would love to see you do that. You aren't going to get freezing temperatures by doing that unless you pressurize your lines however.
Evaporators below the dew point will create condensation, if you are trying to get it below freezing you are going to have to figure out a way to defrost the evaporator coil as the condensation will also begin to freeze around the coil. This is because you are trying to achieve freezing temperatures your coil will be below freezing if you want that result. Look up on google images what a frozen evaporator looks like because it is never pretty. Then let's ask what you are going to do about all that condensate that your evaporator will dump. That's another issue entirely.
You will have to regularly clean the condenser and evaporator clean to avoid a blockage of airflow across the coils. For work, to clean coils as small as what you are talking about I use compressed co2. A blocked coil can cause a lot of issues including freezing coils.
If you are using an older system then I would check to see which refrigerant you are allowed to use with that compressor. Older systems are typically R-22 or R-12. Which good luck getting R-12 and R-22 is about $500 a jug right now.
If you can pull it off that would be cool but honestly I think its a bad idea.
The loudness entirely depends on the fan. Small compressors are usually scroll compressor which in general quiet enough.