Motherboards

So Sup Forums what differentiates motherboards from each other and what do i have to consider when choosing one?
Obviously the number and version of PCI, SATA, USB and CPU sockets/slots. Features such as Crossfire/SLI and overclocking which is nice and bluetooth/WLAN which i dont need. Fan and temperature control are not selling points really but fancy extras. Whats the deal with chip sets really, how important and different are they and what else did i forget? I would aim for the cheapest option that meets my slot criteria, enlighten me

Other urls found in this thread:

en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer_capacitor
twitter.com/AnonBabble

>So Sup Forums what differentiates motherboards from each other and what do i have to consider when choosing one?
Build quality, cap quality, BIOS quality, number of expansion ports and headers, chipset, socket compatibility, ease of debugging, etc.

LLC.

I didn't even think of it when I bought mine because I figured it was a standard today.

But it isn't.

Yeah, i was aiming to get more in depth answers. Half of these things i already listed.
>spend more for more quality!!
is easily said, but what do i really need to care? Im not that educated when it comes to hardware. In my current setup i have no idea what a different BIOS would net me or why i would ever want to have one.
I have certain hardware (CPU, GPU, maybe SLId later, hard drives and network cable etc) in mind so i need the right slots to fit. Thats basic requirements and we dont need to talk about that. But at this point i still have many options at my disposal such as the BIOS and chip set. These are the only two things i am still aware of that matter but what impact do these really have and what am i still missing? Be it in regards to performance or not, and is this impact worth more money or am i only buying gimmicks, benchmark only increases or necessities for a 4k dollar+ setups?

yes, less ports = more stable work and OC

>is easily said, but what do i really need to care?
You don't need to do anything. You're the one who faces the consequences of doing or not doing things.

Have they started making motherboards with usb type-c ports on them yet?

Given the goals in mind, not overall. Does *quality by price* have affect.
I guess you are not stupid but well aware of that and just wanted to shitpost.
It wasnt worded exceptionally well

/pcbg/ - PC building general

Pretty sure they have

Yes, I build a PC for a friend of mine back in January, and a few of the ~$150 motherboards had 1 single USB-C port.

Yes it has effect. Point is that you have to live with your choice, so it up to you to decide whether the higher priced product justifies it's cost.

Capacitor quality is important:
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_plague

Im far from an expert on this topic so someone would have to confirm or deny, but as far as i know the chipset affects your CPU speed for the better or the worse with more up to date CPUs than your mb and also gives you the option to OC your CPU. Not every chipset can oc everything iirc.
The other major part is the audio quality but that might not be enough difference for most people

Intel NIC is the only acceptable option. More power phases = mo better. Jap caps, preferably 12k+ hour versions.

So are you looking for specific recommendations or general explanation?

?

No, im looking for general advice that would help me compare two mainboards to each other if i have two (or more) given datasheets. Slots are for functionality but that isnt the only thing setting them apart and Im looking to decipher the other components

This belongs in sqt but I'm going to ask anyways. How do I tell when a solid cap dies? Same signs? Bulging? Leaking?

It's not a stupid question, not even a small question.

It's not as easy to detect as with these shitty taiwanese aluminium electrolytic capacitors. Some doesn't have any visible sign of fault, and some can't have physical faults. I can't explain much better than this, you will need to search. And please, "share" with me your findings, as I want to learn more about this too.

Start: en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Polymer_capacitor
>The life time, service life, load life or useful life of electrolytic capacitors is a special characteristic of non-solid electrolytic capacitors, whose liquid electrolyte can evaporate over the time leading to wear-out failures. Solid tantalum capacitors with MnO2 electrolyte have no wear-out mechanism so that the constant failure rate least up to the point all capacitors have failed. They don’t have a life time specification like non-solid Al-e-caps. However, polymer tantalum as well as polymer aluminum electrolytic capacitors do have a life time specification.

Such a good post, but not specifying VRM components.

>VRM
Voltage regulator module?

>shitty taiwanese aluminium electrolytic capacitors.
Sorry, but the few capacitors manufactured in ROC today are of acceptable quality. 99.9% of whole world production is in the mainland, and from there, indeed, do come some horrifying caps.

>BIOS quality
How to measure this?

I just pick based on appearance.

>the few capacitors manufactured in ROC today are of acceptable quality
{{citation needed}}

I do too but its honestly but boards are a hard thing to get into imo, nice thread, now if only someone was knowledgeable and would share it with us

Buggy poorly arranged piece of shit = bad.

OK, but how can I know if the BIOS is shitty?

1. Cap quality.
2. Errata free
3. Software, driver and firmware support.
4. Ports and expansion slots
5. Integrated sound, ethernet, wifi, etc
6. Debugging tools
7. Power delivery.

If overclocking, power delivery is #4

If it feels like shit, it's probably shit.

How to feel a BIOS?

You poke inside it

I can't do this before buying the motherboard!

>Software, driver and firmware support
Just use Linux.

>Crossfire/SLI and overclocking which is nice and bluetooth/WLAN which i dont need
shouldn't it be the other way around?

overclocking 2016?
adding wireless per usb maybe? :^)

Buy Jap caps or get off this board.

>Still putting VGA on Mobos
wtf is up with this Sup Forums didn't VGA die like 10 years ago?

The manufacturer site does not reveal the country of origin of the capacitors used on the board. O que fazer?

Computer monitors don't die as frequently, so someone may be still using them. Also, they are standard, using some other shitty adaptors would render trouble.

Motherboard manufacturers usually use Japanese caps as a selling point on the product description page.

On the models I looked, the manufacturers only said "solid capacitors" or "polymer capacitors". The only that said the capacitors were Japanese didn't said they were solid/polymer, but "electrolytic".

My Asus board keeps showing the wrong time ( two hours behind) I already removed the battery twice but it doesn't help for long.
Does this mean my mainboard is shit and should be returned? It's just that I don't wanna remove all the cables, coolers and shit cause it's so neat and tidy and apart from that the board seems fine

You bought it recently? If not, replace the battery.

About a year ago. It's an mATX H97-ME
Should I pester Asus about it?

I don't know... You should contact them and ask for support. Not asking to return it, just asking for support. If they say to simply replace the battery, just replace the battery.

ok thx sempai

Friendly neighbourhood prajeet incoming:

Take a multimeter to it. You should get 3V. If not, get a new cr2032 for replacement.

Look at the battery holder. Is it secure? If it wiggles like a loose tooth, send it in for RMA. That's the shittiest problem to work on years down the road.

haven't got a multimeter.
The battery holder is solid though. I mean it's not like it's that bad but it's an annoyance. Guess I'll just ask the support to send me a new battery

>ask the support to send me a new battery
kek, these things are cheap, just buy another one

yeah but fuck spending money on something with warranty. Those fuckers built it and I paid

Then ask support if they can send another battery.

Dude. Just do both. Get a battery. Then ask for the new one. Save as a spare.