/pcbg/- PC Building General

Want to build a PC? Get in here.

But please, not building a complete PC from scratch. In this case, go to

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/qLRPVY
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_Plague
sagernotebook.com/Notebook-NP9873-S.html
pcpartpicker.com/list/LVLH2R
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/6TxPXH
gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5916#sp
asus.com/Graphics-Cards/ROG-STRIX-GTX1070-8G-GAMING/specifications/
ebay.com/itm/Dell-UltraSharp-U2410F-U2410-F-24-Widescreen-LCD-Monitor-Stand-Power-/142100644769?hash=item2115dbc3a1:g:GWwAAOSwTapV4Tpm
dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1151/Z170-A/Z170-A_DRAM_QVL_20160316.pdf
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

>put RAM in a laptop
>I MAEK PC!111

Not just the RAM, stupid. Check the left side on the image. Appears the HDD was replaced too.

Stock photos are magical things.

This one is a FREE stock photo. This is even more magical.

I built a friend's pc today and we couldnt install Win7 from an USB drive, we kept getting the same error about drivers and the only HDD connected wasnt listen on the drives to install Windows. I took the hdd and usb to my house and it work perfectly fine, so I guess its a mobo problem. The model is "H110m pro vd". Any idea of what could it be? We dont have a dvd-drive.

How to maek aptlop

Intel is collaborating with MS to end win7 support for their new chipsets. Try win10.

Can you please prove that?

I don't understand. Why some manufactures make the motherboard completely solid-capacitor, but decide to use electrolictic capacitors on the audio part? I'm more worried about them being solid than being Japanese. Am I wrong?

I was looking at the old thread and I noticed that a lot of you are buying old SSDs. Don't buy them unless they're at a very low price. Modern SSDs are reasonably priced, perform much better, more reliable and last longer .

I'm not buying SSDs. In 2013 I bought one and my 2009 motherboard could not make it work.

Ignoring the fact that I'm getting fucked in the ass here, at these price points, which cpu + mobo + ram should I buy?

i5 4440 ($235.11) + asus h81m-a ($66.60) + 1866 2x4gb ($63.94) = $365.65
or
i5 6500 ($283.07) + asus h110m-a ($92.91) + 2666 2x4gb ($66.60) = $442.58

Consider the fact that the more I save here, the sooner I'll be able to afford a decent GPU

If the caps are from reputable brands you really don't need to worry unless you plan to spend 40 years or so with the same mobo.

How can electrolytic capacitors be as durable as solid ones?

They're not, my point Is It's highly unlikely you'll spend enough time with that product before It fails.

It definitely Isn't normal for good quality caps to fail, shit caps on the other hand fail after 7 or so years.

There's also an i5 6400 avaiable for $245.72, help me decide how I get scammed Sup Forums please

Shitty capacitors fail before 7 years.

Also they probably use electrolytic because they have a higher capacitance per volume so packaging Is better.

Thankfully never came upon such level of shittines.

is there anyway to do a decent used Xeon build without having to spend >300$ on a LGA2011 board?

Go used?

I prefer durability over packaging.

So my hard drive is constantly making noises which I assume to be just the disk moving around but its starting to annoy me because I want my system to be completely silent. If I get an SSD and install the OS on that, will the HDD stop spinning constantly? I assume it will if I retrieve a file from it, but if I'm just using the SSD will it make noise?

please be bait

You need to be more specific about the sound. But now, the HDD always spin. If it's turned on.

even used, there are no cheap mobo options.
the prices inflated alot with the influx of 50$ sandy bridge xeons on ebay.

Component packaging only matters for the engineer(s) responsible for laying out the components(designing the pcb), end users won't even have a clue of the packaging advantages of an electrolytic or tantalum cap In much the same you didn't.

Go even older than sandybridge then?

how hard would it be to make pic related but not out of a thinkpad?

With desktop parts ? Very.
Also that is most definitely not a Thinkpad.

It's like a slight shudder sound, it's hard to describe, but it goes off every couple of seconds and increases whenever I do anything like load a program, look at pictures, etc.
I assume it's just the hard drive searching on the disk? What I'm wondering is if I'm not loading anything from the hard drive, because I'm using the SSD instead, will it make any noise

pcpartpicker.com/list/qLRPVY
If I magically get $1100, is this a decent build or can anyone do better?

This is a stupid build.

What, being solid prevents this!
en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Capacitor_Plague

I'm about to buy this gaming PC. Thoughts?
sagernotebook.com/Notebook-NP9873-S.html

I suddenly wonder.. I let the store where I bought my components put all of it together because it only cost 20 bux and I don't have that much confidence in myself but..do you think they would've built it in the optimal way or just throw up together as quickly as possible?

How does that dual channel RAM work? Should the sticks be further apart? And are they gonna use the SATA express cables instead of the regular cables to hook my shit up?

Probably dumb questions but I'm so hype right now I just randomly got worried.

Being japanese would also have prevented It.

got anything better?

I've always had overheating issues with regular ass normie laptops so the idea of a laptop with enthusiast hardware scares the piss out of me.

Hope your insured.

Most probably they would've done It the fastest possible but It probably should work or outright not work at all If It's done wrong.

Best way to do things Is to do them yourself since you'll be sure It's done the right way(presuming you actually learned It enough to actually know what you're doing).

Switch out the CPU you're gonna regret not getting an i5.

It's thick as fuck because of the massive heatsinking the thing has so It's probably gonna work alright. Also there have been latops with desktop processors before when shit was a hell of a lot more power hungry and that still worked just fine.

>finally going to play those games I saw that looked interesting
>recommended GPU GTX 970

Holy fuck what happened here.

Swap CPU for an i5 6500
Swap motherboard for something that makes sense, like an H110 board
Add another 8GB RAM
Cannot be fucked to juggle it all around to make it match your budget, do this yourself.

>Want to build a PC?
No, I want my Q1 2011 Sandybridge to be able to utlize 1600Mhz RAM ;_;

What for?

>Intel
>Sandybridge
>expecting not to have planned obsolescence

>Intel is collaborating with MS to end win7 support for their new chipsets. Try win10.

I couldn't get win7 to behave on a z97 chipset. Went with mint and ran win7 virtually. Then went on to lighter distro and still run win7 virtually. Win7 runs nice and I don't have search all over for intell drivers etc. I dissable the public network on win7 and it doesn't call home or do weird shit. Use linux for internet etc. Best windows experience I've had ever.

I'm not way into linux or way into windows. Using both has let me see the value in the money I laid down for my board and cpu and power supply. I would feel cheated if I went with either windows or linux. Using both uses the strength of linux as a server and the apps of windows and can keep windows off the web which has always been its weakness.

I won't be reading any replies so toodles.

You're trying to install an OS which, out of the box, has no support for SATA 3, USB 3, M.2, or what have you.
You need to slipstream a driver for your SATA controller.

Or install a better version of Windows, like 8.1 or 10.

le bumperino

Never had any problem installing w7 on my p67 and intel 510 ssd which are both sata 3.

So, like this?
pcpartpicker.com/list/LVLH2R

Yes, that's much better.

Well, that's all I needed. Thanks, magical fourth channel!

I DON'T UNDERSTAND

should I get a 6600k and overclock it in a few years, or just get a 6600 (and save on a non-clocking motherboard) and hope it'll stay good enough?
I'm just doing mild audio production work and playing games

Plus I'd save on a cooler, since I wouldn't need any more than the stock fan. Looking at like a $150-200 savings overall to not overclock

Overclocking your CPU distorts the hyperacoustics, so you'll need to install a dampening bridge to compensate or your audio production just won't sound good at all

Whatever that is, could it be negated by an external DAC

Even an external DAC will be affected by the microharmonic degradation. Luckily the folks over at Machina Dynamica can help.

Oh wow in that case I guess this is a pretty serious operation
This guy must know what he's doing

>opened up a HDD
lol

Asus PG279Q ROG Swift 27.0" 165Hz Monitor
or
Asus MG279Q 27.0" 144Hz Monitor?

The former is 250 dollars more and so I'm wondering; is the gsync REALLY worth it? (with a strix 1070)

The general consensus among people that have it is that neither gsync nor freesync are worth the premium. You get it if you have a lot of money, if you have to actually consider whether or not it's worth it don't buy it.

since kaby lake is going to be on the 1151 socket and i would like to build a new pc now, would i be better off getting a 6600k/6700k and sticking or getting a g4400 and upgrading to kaby lake when it comes out?

currently using an fx 8320.

just wait you impatient child

whats a good 1080p monitor? don't really care about the refresh rate as long as its 60hz
around ~$100, looking for deals but can't find any.

...

>Intel Core i7 6700K 4GHz $469.00
>Corsair H105 Liquid Cooler $155.00
>BitFenix Neo Black&Gold $ 79.00
>Corsair VS650 650W PSU $ 83.00
>ASRock Z170 Pro4 Mobo $159.00
>Kingston 2x4GB 2.6GHz DDR4 $ 69.00
>EVGA GeForce GTX 1070 8GB $699.00
>Acer S240HL 24in 1920x1080 $155.00

... Could I do better for roughly the same dollarydoos? Haven't quite decided to 'upgrade' yet. (read: replace everything but drives)

Why are all your prices so inflated? That cpu should be 150 dollars less and that 1070 should be around 400 dollars
AUS?

Aus dollarydoos.

au.pcpartpicker.com/list/6TxPXH

What do you guys think of this?

I have a 980 already from my last build, but I want to try watercooling both GPUs and CPU this time. I've watched some JayZTwoCents videos on the topic, but still don't have any ideas on good brands.

My motherboard, RAM and PSU were arbitrarily chosen based on reviews from the website. The case I found that someone mentioned on here before.

I already have an old SSD and HDDs from my last build, but I think i'll get another one since they're so cheap.

Anyone please

What are you using the i7 for? If you don't need the hyperthreading, get an i5.

Just buy one used

... I probably don't need it for what little vid / 3d stuff I do. Thoughts on where to put that $130 saved by dropping to i5-6600k?

Just built a new PC but fucked up and assumed I could put my old HDD in the new one and just run my OS like normal

How can i get my fucking windows pls

Never mind lads got it to work

Consider investing in a better monitor. Either a TN 144hz panel or an IPS 60hz if you're not going to do a lot of competitive FPS. You can get either with the money you're saving by not getting a CPU with overkill features that you won't actually benefit from.

Can someone explain to me the difference between these two cards aside for the brand name?

gigabyte.com/products/product-page.aspx?pid=5916#sp

asus.com/Graphics-Cards/ROG-STRIX-GTX1070-8G-GAMING/specifications/

The Asus one is about 20€ more, which one is the best manufacturer? Which should I buy?

See if you can find a used 24" Dell Ultrasharp.
Preferably from 2011 or newer.

Do i need to reinstall windows if i switch my mobo? Want to downsize from atx to mitx since i am not running multiple gpus or any other pcie cards and my desk space is really scarce.

Why not look up aftermarket benchmarks? But either way, why would you ever go with something other than Gigabyte/EVGA/MSI for an aftermarket card unless there's one for a way better price?

That's an all in one computer?

No.
Where the fuck did you get that idea from ?

The first link on amazon?
Anyway why are you recommending this?

>The first link on amazon?
Then you're looking at the wrong thing.
>Anyway why are you recommending this?
Because a used Ultrasharp is the best monitor you'll get for 100 buckaroos.

ebay.com/itm/Dell-UltraSharp-U2410F-U2410-F-24-Widescreen-LCD-Monitor-Stand-Power-/142100644769?hash=item2115dbc3a1:g:GWwAAOSwTapV4Tpm

>ASUS VG248QE
Worth it? Reviews seem good.

That's a fine monitor. You'll get a lot more out of 144hz than you would have with that cheap monitor you were looking at.

xl2411z is better, colorwise and general looks.

the stand on the vg248qe is better though. and the benq doesn't support displayport.

bump

any advice appreciated

Also Windows oem 90 seriously?
Buy it on g2a for 15 bucks and buy a 4core cpu i3 makes me want to gauge your eyes

It should be:

/pcag/ - PC Assembly General

>au.pcpartpicker.com/list/6TxPXH

why not make the switch to ddr4 since you are buying everything new anyways?
just replace the cpu and mobo to a i7 6700k and a lga 1151 z170 mobo and its pretty much good

also sli isn't as great as you think it is, and only supported by select games,
for that budget I would go for a gtx 1080 custom card,but thats all up to you


you could also take a look at the broadwell-e cpus, especially the 5820k & x99 mobo since the 5820k tends to overclock pretty well by up to 1 Ghz

If I buy enough components for 30 computers and daisy chain them together is it possible for them to act as one big supercomputer?
I want to [spoiler]play Crysis 3 at 60fps on Ultra[/spoiler]

Wish do you fellas think about my build? Do far i bought the ram, PSU, and the AIO.
I'm going for a completely black and white build.
Any reason not to pull the trigger on the rest?

pretty good build,
Just buy 2x8GB ram just so you have space to increase it in the future

just doublecheck if your mobo supports that ram though(it prob. does, but doesn't hurt to doublecheck)

Shit man, i already bought the ram, but why wouldn't my motherboard support it?

I know someone that bought ddr4 ram for his msi mobo,and only found out later it wasn't listed as being compatible, so it never worked, so I got it for free for my mobo(exact same mobo as yours btw)

just check on dlcdnet.asus.com/pub/ASUS/mb/LGA1151/Z170-A/Z170-A_DRAM_QVL_20160316.pdf if that ram is listed there