/pcbg/- PC Building General

Amateur, backup thread starter edition.

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons by vendor and compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com

>Have a budget, but don't know where to start? This will recommend you a parts list based on price.
logicalincrements.com/

>General build advice including chipset compatibility, power supply advice, Windows activation information.
pastebin.com/9Pbm4nHL

>Information about how to build a pc, how to select components, and much, much more advice.
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC

- Post your list, rate other user's, ask questions in general.

- Always state the purpose of your PC and your budget. If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price, or improve specs or build quality.

-If you see any other "PCPartPicker thread"s or threads asking for advice on a build or parts list, please politely direct them here.

Other urls found in this thread:

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/zGTgbj
pcpartpicker.com/list/bysrD8
pcpartpicker.com/list/WGNVwV
pichau.com.br/computadores/pichau-gamer/computador-pichau-gamer-i7-6700-evga-gtx-1070-8gb-ddr4-hd-1tb-600w
pcpartpicker.com/list/cTCp2R
pcpartpicker.com/list/VJBd9W
pcpartpicker.com/list/ZGHgbj
pcpartpicker.com/list/
ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/crQbKZ
pcpartpicker.com/list/QPmcbj
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/qpTgbj
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211984
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099
promotions.newegg.com/nepro/16-4340/index.html?cm_sp=Homepage-Top2016-_-P1_nepro/16-4340-_-http://promotions.newegg.com/nepro/16-4340/1920x360.jpg&icid=367937
dealzon.com/deals/best-buy-video-game-sale#bb-3-day
pcpartpicker.com/list/n4cntJ
pcpartpicker.com/list/6zMW4C
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

I just bought ddr3 2133mhz ram after seeing a few videos where ram speed can give you extra framez.

My previous DDR3 was 1600mhz 8gb that ran at 1600mhz with XMP Disabled (IDK WHY)

I installed my new DDR3 2133mhz 16gb ram and it is running 1333mhz, I enable XMP Profile 2 which runs at 2133mhz and it insta crashes

Profile 1 at 1866mhz also insta crashes.

What the fuck man.. I just paid 100 bux for this shit? Dam im retarded. How do I get this shit running at the good speeds and not have wasted my money??

I am also pre pissed because when it crashed my OCed 2500k went back to stock clock speeds and I forgot what volts and ghz I was running before.. Oh well :(

So it's about time for me to build a computer for myself.
I'm going with the 6800k as a CPU and I need a mobo for it.
All other parts are pretty much self explanatory for me except for this thing.
I really know jack shit about these parts, but from what I gather, the differences seem somewhat minimal.

So far I've been looking at:
Asus ROG STRIX X99 GAMING
Gigabyte X99-Ultra Gaming
and
MSI X99A Gaming Pro Carbon

They all seem more or less the same. The Asus seems fairly popular though.
Are there any real difference between these, as in does one of these brands suck balls when it comes to mobos?
Or should I just go with something completely different?
I'd like to stay under 400€ with the mobo.

Should I buy a windowed case? I thought it would be kinda cool but it's 10 extra dollars that won't get me more fps.

10 bux sure why not, I wouldnt way 30 bux though, 20 bux yes if you are a bitch gaymer

I personally dont give a shit bout the window so..

It should be
/pcag/ - PC Assembly General

I'm gonna go without it, I hear that the plexi windows scratch kinda easily, and since its not like a black side panel will look ugly if it tarnishes.

Any issues with this build, /gee/? I'm no gaymer but would like to build a machine that is reasonably dope at computerin'.

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/zGTgbj

you fucked up, those benchmarks are for intel skylake RAM which pretty much only has mobos with DDR4 support.

If you're OCing you want a mobo with good MOSFETs and Power Phase. You can usually notice them as the big heatsinks and smaller black squares around the CPU socket.
Remember to read reviews from hardware sites, dont blindly follow the user reviews on the shopping site.

If you have that side towards you and dont have the case under your desk, sure go ahead.

fuck off autist, like another user already told you in another thread, PC BUILDING is the most commonly used term.

you chose an mITX mobo and a mATX case, get ITX case if you want something smaller, or get a mATX mobo if you want to save some money.
Get regular 2.5" SSD, they're much cheaper, you can get twice as much space for the same price.

Get 1x8GB RAM instead if you're going to keep that mobo so you have option to get another stick later if you need/want without wasting money.

I changed the RAM to 1x8GB but didn't follow anything else you said as I like the case and the Amazon page says it is mITX as well as mATX. I also really want the m.2 SSD to avoid using SATA cables.

then get a mATX motherboard too because you're paying extra for that ITX mobo.

> I also really want the m.2 SSD to avoid using SATA cables.
niggah, you could use that money to get twice as much space or spend it on a better cpu...

you're retarded

I want the inbuilt wifi connectability with the ITX motherboard. I want to connect to the internet without using a USB stick that can be ejected at will.

I also want the m.2 SSD cos it's faster, sonic faster even.

If this is the wrong place to ask just fucking slaughter me, sorry in advance.

I did a complete wipe of my computer and reinstalled windows 7 via USB, which all went as it should. Further I installed what was needed of updates and then the PC shat the bed. Several hours later I managed to isolate the problem to being the nVidia Driver. with no other changes to a completely fresh install of windows 7 than installing all updates, does anyone know why m computer would crash when the graphics driver was installed?

Pic related are my specs, the GPU is a 470.

I should probably mention that I have tried installing several iterations of the nVidia drivers, all with the same result, that being a bluescreen.

Would an
>Asus X99-DELUXE II ATX LGA2011-3 Motherboard
with
>Asus GeForce GTX 1070 8GB Video Card (2-Way SLI)

have enough physical space for my
> Asus Xonar DX 24-bit 192 KHz Sound Card

-- I know that my CPU will allow 40 PCI lanes, so the GPUs will occupy x16 (PCIe3_1 and PCIe3_3), and the sound card only needs PCIe 2.0 x1. There are two eligible placements for it, but I don't know if they will e.g. bump into the cards' radiator. The motherboard layout is available on google in PDF form.

Nigga why are you buying a sound card? They are practically obsolete

Thinking of picking up the i3-6100 for $90 at jet.com, should I wait a bit to see if there's a better sale on labor day - maybe a good price on an i5?

There are mATX boards with Wifi.

Look at pictures of the PCI-E slots and you will see. But like someone else already pointed out, there is no need for discrete sound cards these days unless the builtin have some kind of static noise.

Definitely see if there are good deals for an i5.

You're both assuming I don't already own it. I bought it years ago, and have grown used to it. I'd like to continue using it, is all.

then say so in the first place you retarded fuck

>My previous DDR3 was 1600mhz 8gb that ran at 1600mhz with XMP Disabled
That's because XMP is not needed at memory speeds supported the the CPU's memory controller. All XMP really does is save a stable setting for the RAM to run at higher frequencies outside of the memory controller's specification. It's basically a saved OC profile for the RAM only.

If XMP is causing crashes, then that means you may have a faulty memory controller on your 2500k or you have to go back to the stock frequency (both core and base clock multipliers), enable XMP at stock settings, and manually overclock from there. XMP adjusts the base clock in order to reach those higher frequencies, so in all likelihood you've overclocked your 2500k to the limit with the adjustment to run the RAM at 1600MHz and now have to do it all over again because 2133MHz RAM upped the base clock multiplier again.

Almost pulling the trigger on this combo:

>Intel Core i7-6700 3.4Ghz
>Stock cooler
>Asus B150M-C DDR4
>HyperX 2133MHz (2x4GB)
>EVGA GTX 1070 FTW
>HDD 1000GB Sata III (no specific brand)
>600W 80 Plus, Active PFC (no specific brand)
>Corsair Carbide 400C
pcpartpicker.com/list/bysrD8

Its on sale here and no, if I change the CPU to a 6600k it does not become cheaper since here the 6600+CM212+Z170 is a little bit more expensive. Cant put SSD since it would break the sale value the whole PC has.

Anything I should know? Probably the only thing I can change its the i7 6700 to a i6 6400/6500/6600(non-k) and the RAM, but i'll buy another 8GB after this anyway.

If you're spending that much you might aswell get unlocked CPU and Z170 chipset.
Get a modular PSU, preferably 80+ Gold rated.
A 2TB HDD is only $10-20 more.
If you can afford it get an SSD too (or use that money on the first point and buy SSD later).

You'll save money in the long run by not having to upgrade as soon.

Just buy an i7-6950X now and wait to buy an X99 EATX motherboard afterwards for $400. If you want to cheap out on RAM, then I guess you could by a 64GB set of DDR4-2800 DIMMs for $250, but 128GB DDR4-3300 is where it's at (just $550, a steal at that price).
Don't just buy one SSD, buy three 1TB Intel 750 PCIe SSDs and RAID them. They're like $800 each, totally worth it. If you have to have a spinning platter drive, go Enterprise or go home. 6TB and 8TB Enterprise SATA drives are available, but hardcore PC gamers use $300 6TB 10000rpm SAS drives with LSI's dual SAS RAID card that's only $600.

pcpartpicker.com/list/WGNVwV

That cow has arthritis and should be put down.

Nice.

But I had no intention of picking up an i7, let alone a unlocked one, the reason why I put the locked 6700 is because the combo makes it really cheap, cheaper than a 6600k itself (even without the Z170 and cooler), if I change anything, like the CPU to a 6600k or a 6700k the sale discounts will be gone and the price will skyrocket.

This i7 6700+gtx1070+8gbRAM combo is at the same price as a non-combo i5 6600k+1060+16gb, thats why I thought I should obviously pickup the one with the i7 and 1070.

The only thing that I could change without the losing the discount pricing would be changing the i7 6700 to a i5 6600, 6500 or 6400, making the combo a little bit cheaper.

So, is the 6400/6500/non-K 6600 that much worse than the i7 6700? And is it worth to sacrifice the 1070 for the 1060 just to get a 6600k/6700k and Z170 mobo?

It depends on what you will be using it for. If it's just general use like home office and gaming, go with i5. If you do any professional work like media editing, rendering or such, go with an i7.

The main reason to get an unlocked CPU (K model) is to get more performance and make it last longer so you dont have to upgrade as soon, thus saving money in the long run.

I dont see the combo thing you're talking about on your list?

Would you prefer some other cow?

Recommended cheap big-box store webcams? Trying to just get something functional for skype and such today, will worry about upgrading later.
About to make a Best-Buy run for some last minute cables and such for my PC, if that narrows it down.

pichau.com.br/computadores/pichau-gamer/computador-pichau-gamer-i7-6700-evga-gtx-1070-8gb-ddr4-hd-1tb-600w

Its on a store here in BR. Its equivalent $1,484 in US dollars, normally you barely can get a 1060gtx+6600k+z170 with that price, thats why the 1070+i7 got my attention. Yeah, im just gaming.

Anyone want do do a part picker for me with $5000 CAD budget I was also wondering if it's worth waiting for the new Intel CPU as I'll probably buy my parts in a month or two. The system must be able to render/encode video, fold, and gaym simultaneously. Dual xeon is an option.

Also if you want I'm open two a two tower build with a 10G switch/nice setup too

Any microsoft or logitech HD cam should be fine.

If there will be a socket 2011-v3 replacement within 6 months you should probably wait for that.

Looking to upgrade my HD7950 GPU, recommendations?

Current build:
i5 3570K @ 3.4GHz
8GB RAM
Asus P8Z77-V MoBo

Was thinking about a Sapphire R9 FURY NITRO Tri-X 4GB. I really only want it to last the next 2-3 years before I make an entirely new build. Currently on 1080p but might look into 1440p soon. Are my other specs still decent, no bottlenecks? I just want it to max out most games for 2-3 years basically.

Was also looking at an RX480 but the R9 is a much better card despite only 4GB vs 8GB due to HBM and 4096bit, right?

Looks like it's Q2/2017 which makes me want to lean to a server/encoding pc and a separate gayming one as then I'll only need a mobo/CPU upgrade in the near future

>ASUS M5a97 Le R2.0
There is 1 unity of this motherboard being sold far cheaper than the other unities. It's cheaper because it does not have 1 year warranty from the manufacturer, but 6 months from the seller. The law mandates at least 3 months, by the way.

So, should I be worried by this smaller warranty?

the fury is a slightly better card but it uses a lot more power so make sure you have a good psu if you plan to get it

Have you compared them in gaming benchmarks?
If the RX 490 is not a dual GPU solution you could maybe wait for that, if anything the R9 390 cards will become cheaper.

That sounds like a good idea.

Should be fine. Any issues will most likely appear within the 6 month warranty.

I have a mountain mods duality case I am going to finally use. Been under my bed for a year after I got it from someone else.

Were can I get ideas for really customizing a case and even running custom cabling for a really perfect build?

I basically just copied one of the tiers on logicalincrements. Before I go through with this, anything obvious you'd recommend?

Hola doggo

Check warranties, if all else is similar go with the longest one

I'd get a 250GB SSD, and unlike what the other user said, if you aren't gaming or using VMs, don't worry about needing more that 8GB of RAM

Try a different PCIe slot, only use one stick of RAM. Completely uninstall drivers before reinstalling

He did you retarded fuck

3000mhz RAM if mobo supports it
HGST hard drive, more reliable

case mod forums like hardocp and overclockers

>locked CPU with Z-chipset mobo

say I have no intention of overclocking, what motherboard should I look into instead? Or is it dumb to have no intention to overclock in the future?

>Z170
No, just no.
Buy an H110 or B150 mATX motherboard and save $30-40 on the motherboard alone. They have just the right amount of things you'll actually use and none of the shit you won't (except for the B150's SBA shitware, but at least it has PCIe3.0 from the SB and not PCIe2.0 with the H110). You don't have an M.2 slot so you won't need anything more than a B150, either.
That also means that you can get a cheaper mATX case that is much smaller but has similar airflow potential as an ATX case.

You'll have to revert back to DDR4-2133 memory since XMP profile is usually not an option on H110/B150 motherboards, and get a single stick of 16GB.
>but muh dual channel meme
You're not going to suffer that much of a performance loss as long as it's double sided, which all 16GB sticks are.

>650W PSU
You can bring that down to a 500W and be well inside its peak efficiency boundary. As long as it's cheaper.

the cheapest mobo that's not asrock with the same socket as the CPU.

but on your budget you should still get the unlocked CPU in case you change your mind down the road and want to prolong the life of your computer and dont have to upgrade as soon. also better resell value.

>you should still get the unlocked CPU in case you change your mind down the road and want to prolong the life of your computer
So many things wrong with this statement.
>you should still get the unlocked CPU in case you change your mind down the road
You're asking a first time builder to risk hundreds of dollars of his own investment for a very slight performance gain at the expense of his hardware's usable lifespan. Asking beginners to overclock out of the box is asking for bricked CPUs and motherboards within a year. If you don't know how to overclock, but a cheap AMD APU and start from there. An Athlon X4 860K or an A6-7600K with an A78 motherboard is cheap enough that bricking the system won't really matter. After you're confident with overclocking and its limitations, you can move onto the more expensive hardware from Intel or AMD.
>want to prolong the life of your computer
Overclocking shortens the lifespan of your processor. Remember, it's not just temperature that erodes the traces inside the processor, it's the voltage and electron wear from general usage. Overclocking is like removing the rev limiter on an engine, you'll get more power at the expense of longevity.
>dont have to upgrade as soon
That won't be a problem for four years at the very least, considering how little CPUs have actually advanced these days. By then he'll probably have enough money and reason to justify buying a whole new system rather than upgrading or overclocking for marginal benefits.
>resale value
Get real. You will never recoup the costs you put into your machine from age and depreciation. It's better to buy cheap and sell cheap at minimal losses than buy expensive and sell cheap for greater losses. You'll have a lot more money in your pocket if you spend $700 on a system and buy a new $700 system three to five years later than buying a $1400 system, selling it for $500-700, and then buying another $1400 system within five-seven years.

>So many things wrong with this statement.
nope
>You're asking a first time builder to risk hundreds of dollars of his own investment
have you ever OCed a fucking CPU since the unlocked ones came out years ago?
>for a very slight performance gain
20%+ easy
>at the expense of his hardware's usable lifespan
post proof it actually reduces the lifespan significantly or fuck off with your bullshit assumptions that you pulled right out of your ass.
>Asking beginners to overclock out of the box
i didnt say he should do it from the start you stupid fuck, learn to read.
>bricked CPUs and motherboards within a year
again, pulling shit out of your ass. if at all, it will happen much sooner due to fucking RNG, OCing or not, or not until it's time to upgrade anyway.
>suggesting buying new hardware instead of old cheap shit just to get used to OCing
fuck off
>it's the voltage and electron wear from general usage
>implying you need to up the voltage that high for a light OC
>MUH ELECTRONS
>it's not the temperature
TOPFUCKINGKEK

>That won't be a problem for four years at the very least
and it wont be a problem for 5 years at least if he OC.
>It's better to buy cheap and sell cheap at minimal losses than buy expensive and sell cheap for greater losses.
oh wow so much BS, you even know the price difference between the CPU he chose and the unlocked? it's fucking nothing in terms of 5 years and you're out of your fucking mind if you dont think he has a better chance to get it sold and at a better price.

>$700 vs $1400
>$700 vs $1400
again pulling shit out of your ass to support your own argument
it's MAX $100 difference for better CPU and Mobo, you retarded mongoloid.

Saltier than a Trump supporter. Delicious.

>no argument
still waiting for you to prove what you claimed

pcpartpicker.com/list/cTCp2R
>$1200 budget (including OS)
>1440p @60hz gaming
>6600k @4.4ghz
>All black and white. No LEDs at first. Maybe later, but not at first.
>I already have a Samsung 850evo ssd to throw in.
How is it?

>cummon bruh pc
>bruh pc
>its cheaper
>investigate these claims
>a GTX 1080 alone costs 2 Xbox One's

Why do people fall for memes?

how about you rename you 12-year-olds-dream hardware threads to something that doesnt suggest printed circuit boards are being discussed.

>picks most expensive parts
why to people shitpost this hard?

how about you stop being autistic? "build" is the most common term.

Thanks for your advice, that shaved around $200 off my build.

I have here this Nvidia GeForce 8200GS2, 512MB, PCIex16. Its series was released on 2006. I've being using it since it was bought, on 2006~2008, new.

Should I be worried about any malfunction? It's my plan to install it on a motherboard that has no integrated graphics unit, so I will need some kind of graphics card...

you can save more by getting i5 6400 and using stock cooler.

you just have to try it

the difference between the 6400 and the 6500 is only like $20, but you're probably right that the aftermarket cooler doesn't seem necessary. Thanks Sup Forums

guys, im fuckin dumb, i have downloaded windows 10 using the media creation tool onto a usb because the pc i built doesnt have a disk drive, my question is, where the fuck do i buy the windows ten product key to activate it when i install? like just the key, every where seems to be selling the cd or an "iso"...or am i just super retarded and is an iso what i need?

I wouldnt go with a 6400 and a 1070 anyway

unless you use a separate boot and data/storage drive, I'd use a regular ssd instead of the m.2. They're too small right now to really be useful for things that don't involve turning the computer on quickly

Looks good very similar to my build. pcpartpicker.com/list/VJBd9W
If you have a Micro Center nearby you can get the i5 6600k for $209 and get $30 off any compatible motherboard. Also the one I went to had that hard drive for $44.99.

>or am i just super retarded
>using W10
>can't even perceive how retarded he is
install gentoo

they're also much more expensive.

You can get 2TB HDD for almost the same price.
Get a better case with sound dampening and nice cable management.
Dont get RAM with heatsinks that stick up above the PCB.
A 240GB+ SSD would be awesome compliment.

Closest microcenter to me is a 2hr drive on a low traffic day, through 2 toll booths. Not worth. Sad too, because I want to give them business.

I have a 250gb ssd already. I had a 1tb drive for 1.5 yrs and only put 300gb of data on it. I hardly even need to buy the 1tb drive. The rest I'll look into.

Thoughts on Fractal r5 vs s340? Ive built in the 340 before and I love the thing. Nice and roomy, added 2 front intake fans, awesome temps.

you buy it off the windows website
add windows 10 to cart, buy it, and magic behold you get a windows 10 key emailed to you

pcpartpicker.com/list/ZGHgbj

Gonna be used fpr gaymz, movies and anime

I dont plan to OC, the aftermarket hs is to maintain low noise
I already have 5 140mm fans and a Air 540

>movies and anime
with 1 terabyte? good luck
get 3 or 4

also consider investing in 144hz 1080p instead of 60hz
it'll pay off really well because you wont be playing games on all three of your monitors at all times and the doubled refresh rate will feel good to use

R5 is nice but dont know how it compares to the other. Check some reviews.

2TB is only $10 more.
You can downgrade mobo since your CPU cant OC.
You can remove the cooler, stock heatsink is more than fine.
Make sure the GPU has enough output and the right kind for your screens.

R8 my shitposting build
pcpartpicker.com/list/
Might take out that hard drive and use my NAS for mass meme storage instead

looks good and all, except that, uhh

you're missing the essentials

Like what?

Thanks m8
I already have a NAS with 8TB so, really dont need much storage
Didnt think about 144hz, gonna look for some reviews first

As for mobo, a b150 would be okay?

yes or H110 just depends which features you want, you can compare them on intel's site

ITX is a meme, mATX has more functionality (and more than enough functionality overall for 99% of consumers)
Mismatching mobo and case sizes just leads to stupid empty space
And M2 is cool and all, but for real an extra 100 burgerbucks is much better. You won't use/notice the extra read/write speeds and M2/PCIe boot up is arguably worse than sata boot up

It's "4-5 times faster" maximum for sure, but that's maybe 20 seconds a week saved if you're just using it for daily boot up
A sata SSD uses one single cable that thinner and less noticeable than anything else in your case. I can't even see my single sata cable without taking my whole PC apart

And you think an Xbox one can play 4K gaymemes

Thoughts?

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/crQbKZ

>m.2 AND a pcie ssd
>that sound card
Why?

>PSU nearly twice the required capacity
You realize they're most efficient when they're between 50% and 100% use, right? And you won't be using anywhere close to that most of the time?

My first build ever, coming from laptops and going for games and something to produce music on pretty much. Thoughts?
pcpartpicker.com/list/QPmcbj

Anything I might have missed? Keeping my old monitors + storage + peripherals

au.pcpartpicker.com/list/qpTgbj

Do businesses usually have sales on Labor Day?

good performance for the price

Don't buy that SSD. It's old. Newer SSDs are faster, cheaper, and more reliable.

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820211984

This is faster, costs less, and no sales tax in most states.

Is a liquid cooler overkill on a lowish tier gaming pc that I will never overclock? I'm only talking in terms of noise. Desktops are pretty quiet compared to laptops, r-right?

I think the stock fans are fine, but if you think they're noisy, a EVO 212 does the trick.

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16835103099

Yes. The pumps can be louder than the fans at near idle. Rule of thumb: you want as much air past your heated components to get the best temperature. You can push more air by using a single fan at high rpm, or two fans working together at lower rpm to cover the same area.
With heatsinks, this means that you want two fans in a push-pull configuration, or fans pushing outside air towards the heatsink and a fan behind pulling the heated air out.
But putting more fans in a build makes it louder, so you have to find the right balance of airflow and acoustics.

Hi,

I tried to do that, I ensured base clock frequencies were standard 100mhz and did not change anything for my 2500k. I take it to profile 2, and then downclock that setting from 2133 to 1600 and its stable, anything beyond such as 1866 and 2133 gets insta crashed. PLEASE HELP

thanks for your help. much appreciated

Newegg and Best Buy are having Labor Day sales.

promotions.newegg.com/nepro/16-4340/index.html?cm_sp=Homepage-Top2016-_-P1_nepro/16-4340-_-http://promotions.newegg.com/nepro/16-4340/1920x360.jpg&icid=367937

dealzon.com/deals/best-buy-video-game-sale#bb-3-day

That $130 Z170 ITX motherboard is attractive. Was thinking of going mATX but this has everything I need
Is ITX worth it?
What are good ITX cases anyways

Building a pc for a friend with a budget of 580. (Gpu fits price perfectly)

Any changes I should make?

Honestly I can't recommend the FX8350.

t. 6350 owner

Why do they make motherboards so confusing to choose from?

pcpartpicker.com/list/n4cntJ
$580

Are there any "white" ram sticks or at least ones very light in another color?

Going full aesthetics this build.

pcpartpicker.com/list/6zMW4C

Thoughts? I wont be overclocking and I'll be buying a monitor soon so that's why I'm getting the 480 for the cheaper freesync.

It's for 1080p. Budget is around $800-$850

You're spending rather a lot on the graphics card. Not outlandishly a lot, but high. You can find ram with heatspreaders for the same price.

You have a micro ATX motherboard in a mid tower.