/pcbg/

Let's get a new PC building thread going since the old one is ded.

What do you guys think of my new build? Any changes you'd make?

>feels good to finally soon have a PC again after 6 months without

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com
pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/
logicalincrements.com/
pastebin.com/9Pbm4nHL
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC
pcpartpicker.com/list/mcVZXH
pcpartpicker.com/list/RXvvD8
pcpartpicker.com/list/xfCqr7
pcpartpicker.com/list/BbhTZ8
blog.neweggbusiness.com/components/whats-deal-computer-ram-prices/
tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.
pcpartpicker.com/list/Rt2YRG
pcpartpicker.com/list/gHdfxY
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

>rx 470 instead of just getting a 480

The 470 seems to be better bang for buck but I guess I can extend the budget a little.

>$50 cpu cooler with a non-OC i5
drop that entirely, or move up to a 6600k
No reason to pay $50 for the cooler either

>evo
I'd go with a m.2 to boot from. It's not actually a meme as long as your mobo supports m.2 over pcie

>8gb ram
ayylmao

otherwise ok as Ayylmao builds go

Will the stock cooler be quiet though? I thought a larger fan would be able to rotate much slower for equal cooling effectiveness.

Fuck off cunt.


====

Post your component list, rate other anons', ask questions in general.

Always state the purpose of your PC, your budget, AND YOUR COUNTRY if outside the USA.
If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price or to improve specs or build quality.

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons by vendor and compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com

>Gaming builds based on purpose or display resolution / Hz
>To activate the Description, select build from sidebar then click on the title over the parts list
>Description contains notes, other options, and build skeleton for easy customization / cost savings
pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/

>Have a budget, but don't know where to start? This will recommend you a parts list based on price.
>Consider substituting an i5 6500 for the i3 in any RX470/480 or GTX 1060 tier build
>Consider stock fan+heatsink for any i3 or locked i5 build
>Consider a B150 mobo for any i3 build
>Add a 240GB SSD to the "Great" tier build
logicalincrements.com/

>General build advice including chipset compatibility, power supply advice, Windows activation information.
pastebin.com/9Pbm4nHL (embed)

>Information about how to assemble a PC, how to select components, etc.
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC


If you see any other build advice or part list threads, direct them here with

IDK but I'm running a cryorig h7 in a fractal r5 and it's near-silent even under load

There is no $130 M2 drive on the market worth buying over SATA

Stock coolers are loud
If you want quiet get a cheapass aftermarket heatsink, don't spend a lot because with a locked CPU, cooling isn't the problem

Is there a reason why the Intel 600p Series 256GB isn't worth getting over SATA? It's under $120 on amazon

Add case of choice.

So I'm reading the manual for the motherboard I'm gonna buy, and I just don't understand what they're thinking here. The windows 7 installation program doesn't have USB 3.0 drivers, which means the keyboard and mouse plugged into USB 3 ports won't work during the installation. So they want me to go through a bunch of trouble of pre-installing them, instead of just plugging the fucking keyboard and mouse into the USB 2 ports.

FUCKING WHY

>So they want me to go through a bunch of trouble of pre-installing them, instead of just plugging the fucking keyboard and mouse into the USB 2 ports.
There seems to be a really, really simple solution here: ignore the manual, install drivers later

It's basically the same speed as SATA SSD except for sequential reads
I mean it's technically better than SATA but it's no 950 pro

600p

pcpartpicker.com/list/mcVZXH

or

pcpartpicker.com/list/RXvvD8

budget is 600 dollars and I just want to play games like csgo, dota2, dbd, and edit home movies.

I just don't understand why they would write that if the USB 2 ports worked fine.

$319 for rx 470

holy smokes australia is a fucked country

what about the hdd retard

not sure how you manage to get by with just 250gb

Where's your second SSD?

Can a A8-7600 machine with 8gb ram and GTX960 2GB capable to play GTA5\ BF1 ?

Yes, but not at very high settings. An Athlon X4 845 with a GTX 960 should be able to get around 50-60FPS at 1080p with High settings in GTAV

I already made a thread on this but can you guys like rate this build, im on a budget

pcpartpicker.com/list/xfCqr7

i could get better parts but ya know

Needs a case of Pop-Tarts...

>pcpartpicker.com/list/xfCqr7
Shit build 2/10
Better get a macbook Pro for gaming

Assuming a fresh install with an ASUS mobo, how many of these drivers am I supposed to install? Everything is named so annoyingly that it's hard to tell if it's different things or different versions of the same thing.

Looking at getting an RX 480, 8gb unless someone can make a damn compelling argument to go with 4gb instead. For what it's worth, I'm replacing a gtx 460 v2.

Top two brands I'm seeing are Sapphire and MSI. Any input?

Just install the chipset drivers. Pretty sure the MEI shit is completely unnecessary for a home computer.

>Bought a Corsair Obsidian 350D
>About to buy a Asus Maximus Gene VIII and the Corsair Hydro H100i
>Find out that the cooler is no longer in stock, and the thicker H100i v2/GTX will effectively block the motherboard power connector if mounted on top.

Fuck me. What's a good alternative 240mm cooler? Are the Cryorig A40 or the Thermaltake Water 3.0 Extreme S ones OK?

Pic related, it's the older H100i mounted in a 350D with a Gene mobo.

Go from gt 530 to an HD 7870 I got for $50. Holy shit these performance gains are unreal why do I need anything else for 1080p?

Sapphire all the way.
Video RAM.

Not sure how 1GB or whatever you have fares on that card, but coming from a 560 1GB, Got a lot of stutters in some games.

7870 has 2gb

What about the stuff from the other categories? USB is just a big mess.

Sorry if this is a dumb question, but how much of a benefit is there to using a CPU cooler as opposed to the stock cooler that comes with CPU's? I don't plan on overclocking or anything like that, and my CPU/GPU is going to be an i5-6500/GTX 1060. I plan on playing some CPU-intensive games like Skyrim and GTA too if that matters.

Im biased towards nvidia so im leaning to that. Either way, you should have a Hitatchi no matter what you go with.

Also, I would recommend a mid ATX for future expansion.

Download the intel one. Also you only need the most recent driver.

If it sounds like bloatware, it is. So avoid all of that ASmedia shit.

Stick with the cooler that comes with it. Unless you're really triggered by noise, it shouldn't be a problem, especially if you use a sound proofed chassi like the define r5.

Don't listen to this idiot You need the ASMedia drivers because those are for the ASMedia USB3.1 controller on your motherboard (Sunrise Point does not have USB3.1 controllers integrated in its chipset). The latest ASMedia driver updates fixed some latency and access issues, so it's for the best if you want a stable experience if you do own USB3.1 devices. If not, you could give it a miss until you do need to use the USB3.1 port, but USB3.0 devices plugged into that port will be susceptible to any vulnerabilities or bugs from not keeping the driver updated.
The Intel drivers are if you're running Windows 7 because USB3.0 was standardized after Windows 7 released, so the bare OS doesn't have the proper drivers for the USB3.0 controller in the motherboard's chipset.

I'm about to upgrade a bunch of shit in my computer, and im trying to decide if I should get a new case.

My case is the Corsair 200R. Should I upgrade it or pimp it out with fans and filters?

Oh whoops, sorry. I only use Windows 7 so I always had an inclination towards the intel ones, because they make my header usb slots work. I guess I should install both.

Is "Controller Driver" and "Driver" the same thing? I wish they could organize it better.

Do I need anything from the sata section?

I don't see a reason to buy a new case if there is nothing wrong with that one. You could try buying aftermarket filters for any top or bottom intake fans.

If you put fans on the side panel, try keeping the bottom one an exhaust to suck out all of the hot air from the GPU if you have an aftermarket cooler on it. Putting it as intake could create a heat trap towards the motherboard and mess up any airflow coming in from the front of the case. Plus, the gap between the fan and a GPU is small enough to make putting filters in annoying or undesirable.

Ideally, you'll want one high static pressure fan at the front intake (I think the bottom one is blocked off by the hard drive cages), one filtered 140mm air flow fan for the bottom intake, one airflow fan at the rear exhaust, and one 140mm airflow fan that's noise optimized for the side panel. If you are going to put fans on the top of the case, stick with one 140mm fan right above the CPU area and make sure to balance it out with the same exact fan (with a filter) as an intake at the top side panel vent.

But the less fans you have, the better for noise control. If you must, invest in a decent fan controller hub, preferably one you can mount on the front 5.25" bay with knobs, no gimmicky touch-screen shit that breaks on you within months of the warranty expiring. Just a simple set of fucking knobs.

Pay me first, nigger. I normally charge for this sort of advice/maintenance

Thanks for the detailed response. My plan was to get some sort of filter for the top vents because that seems to me the most important thing to do to this case. I cant allow all of this dust to just fall straight into the case like that.

As for fans, I dont plan to go all out but I feel that this case could certainly use more. There are only two fans preinstalled on this thing, and this PC feels like a space heater half the time.

When do you guys think the 7700k will come out?

If you're not using the top intake, just cover it up with a piece of cardboard or something. If you want it to look nice, just polish up the cuts and spray paint it black.
If you're going to stick with the shit stock fans Corsairs generously provided with the case, then try to minimize airflow obstruction inside the case. Tidy up the cables as much as possible.

Also, a neat little trick is to put a fan shroud behind the intake fan to better direct the air flow inside the case. It actually works, provided that the shroud is long enough (you can get a decent fan shroud by cutting the fan hub and bracing from a dead 120mm fan and hot-gluing it behind your main fan)

All interesting advice, thanks for all of that. I will find a way to pimp it out. This case is just such a cheap piece of shit. Wide open vents with no filters and two shitty fans. I fell for the paying $50 on a case meme and it bit me back hard. Not denying that Corsair makes good cases or anything, if I were to upgrade I would just get a higher-end corsair case.

I feel you user I have same case and it's dusty as shit. It came dented too and I was too impatient to make them send another.
Other anons, will a stock 1151 cooler fit in a Mini ITX form factor? And why can't I find it by itself to buy?

>ram costs as much as a mobo now

when will the meme end?

When people stop buying SSDs. There is a NAND shortage because of that.

how is this looking? will be using it with dual monitors (144p + 1280x1024 CRT), running on Debian or Ubuntu and Windows VM for Fl Studio, Kontakt, and some games. Obviously can run some stuff in WINE too.

i'm afraid that i'll need more ram, but I haven't had a dedicated VM setup before so i'm not sure. what do you guys think?

pcpartpicker.com/list/BbhTZ8

As an Aussie myself, use Newegg, and try to filter by Australian under "Ship From Country"; it's about $12 flat rate, so you're not getting completely fucked over by shipping. There's not as much in stock, but there's more than enough to build a competent system.

In this faggot's case, it'd be au.pcpartpicker.com lad

>country
>implying
yep pretty much

Is a 1070 powerful enough to drive a 1440p/144hz monitor (for games), or should I go with either 1440p/60hz or 1080p/144hz?

What are the parts safest to buy, meaning, with the lowest failure rates? I'm buying a new build a couple parts at a time, don't want to put it together in a month or two to find out a part is DOA past return date. I'll buy the safest parts first.

kek, just don't horde shit cunt.

Are you implying that RAM uses NAND or have I wildly misinterpreted your post?

Case, RAM/CPU, then SSD, then motherboard, then graphics card/PSU, then air cooler, then hard drive, then AIO

blog.neweggbusiness.com/components/whats-deal-computer-ram-prices/
Not exactly the same NANDs, but they are made in the same factories

True but it saves a cable from being used and helps standardize m.2 drives.

>when will the meme end?
Do you know what a meme is?

Regardless, the reason why RAM is getting more expensive is because smartphones are using DDR4 more often now and Samsung holds a virtual monopoly on smartphone RAM.

Intel,
Asus or gigabyte mobo,
Sapphire for amd gpu,
Seasonic PSU,
Samsung or Intel ssd

Does MSI still have high failure rates on their mobos?

How's mine look?

CPUs are generally fine all around, they don't really fail but they can be damaged. I prefer Intel.

ASUS makes some good mobos, but if they ever do fail, ASUS customer support is shit to deal with. Gigabyte makes some ok models, as does MSI but I've never dealt with Asrock or EVGA mobos. But I suggest looking up better reviews on a mobo you want because you'll only ever read about bad cases/failures with reviews on different manufacturers.

If you want an aftermarket cpu cooler, I would suggest Cryorig for a fan cooler with heat sink. Noctua also makes some good fans as well, Arctic Cooler is also up there.

Most RAM manufacturers are good, I got Corsair brand ones because I got a decent price on them.

For an SSD, Samsung holds the top position because they make the best production sets, but don't get a 750 or 840. 850 and 960 are the only ones worth getting. Intel also makes great SSDs, and below them you can trust different models from different manufacturers. Crucial's MX300 is good, but the MX200 is garbage. ADATA makes ok models as well.

For HDDs, most are fine, a few bad cases made Seagate into a shit tier brand, but they aren't as bad as they used to be. Western Digital, HGST (aka Hitachi) and Toshiba all hold respectable reputations with HGST at the top because they have the lowest failure rates and last the longest because they're intended for server use.

PSUs vary by model, not brand. EVGA's G2 series is great, but their NEX---B series is shit. Seasonic usually makes great PSUs all the time but pay attention to the model/series. And Super Flower is also a top tier brand that makes their own PSUs as well as the components for other brands. Avoid PSUs with an unlisted efficiency rating. Here's a list from 2015 of trusted models: tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.

>ASUS customer support is shit to deal with

Is this an actual thing in america? You have to deal directly with manufacturers when something breaks? You can't just take/send it to the store you bought it in and have them replace it for you?

Did the evga fire reignite (heh) the old house fire memes?

The stores usually have a limited time warranty, while most manufacturers usually last 3-5 years. My mobo is covered by ASUS for 3 years, but Microcenter only accepts returns for 30 days after purchase unless you buy a protection plan from the store itself. But Microcenter is cool and will at least inspect it to diagnose any issues for you if you've bought from them.

so much z170 mobos, can you guys recommend a good one?

Thanks anons, good info all around

Anyone know of any retailers giving away civ 6 with sapphire rx 480's? I've seen some combos if you also get a cpu, but nothing for just the gpu.

Samsung 960 EVO 250 GB, 3200 MBps random read. It's $130 as we speak

ASUS Z170-AR is like really cheap and it has USB-C!

Really need help deciding on the graphics card here for a 250d.

I have looked through google extensively to see basically whether a blower or open air is a good idea in the 250d but there is no consensus and I of course can't really seem to tell.

Usually in a mini-itx blower is better (with FE being the best blower available it seems right now) because of the restricted space and how easily the card dumping hot air may interfere with CPU cooling which of course I will overclock using the h100i and 6700k.

Some say though the 250d really is a big enough Mini-ITX to have what it takes for Open Air. It might be since I really care about CPU cooling though that actually isn't true, while many without a very clockable intel do just fine with a little extra heat.

Pic related is pretty much what it looks like. I will try to clean it up but the over-sized H100i and questionable motherboard header placement leads to this.

One option too is to do a Zotac Mini 1070 which would give reference performance and nice compact size, though still the ability to dump heat in the case. FE do cost more than the $400 MSi Gaming X or $400 ASUS STRIX OC somehow though (????).

Official memeware list:

- 'K' processors
- Motherboards over US$60
- Liquid Cooling
- Case fans
- Sub-ATX cases/Cases over US$50
- PSUs over US$50
- 4K monitors
- AMD Anything

sweet, I fit all of that except for the monitor, processor, and liquid cooling

That list doesn't even make sense fagtron

Shopping around for first cheapo card to play old games and some new games

2GB or 4GB? And there is a ton of different versions of the card how do you know which one is decent?

4GB 470 > 4GB 1050Ti > 4GB 460
If you're getting a 2GB card get the 1050, especially for old games.

what about the 2GB vs 4GB? Is there a reason to get the 4GB over the 2GB version?

So you're trying to build an office drone workstation nice

Is this a good build?

pcpartpicker.com/list/Rt2YRG

i will already have my 1tb hard drive..

The Crucial MX300 M.2 is almost half that, and comfortably outperforms every SSD limited to shitty SATA 6.0Gb/s.

>Founders Edition
No reason to pay extra for nvidia's shitty reference cooler when better open air versions are cheaper.

Any amd alternative to i5?

In regards to AAA gaming, I feel 4GB should be the standard minimum. More VRAM allows for more flexibility in higher resolutions, and at this point... 2GB cards bottleneck terribly in modern games.

what's a good and cheap upgrade to a R9 270x? Something that'll help run Blender and Unity nicely would be a bonus

What about now? It's 30 cents cheaper..

bought a RX460 4GB this week

According to reviews and benchmarks, there seem to be issues (fps drop) with some games and high res textures with only 2GB VRAM, but most of the time it's still fine. There seem to be no conclusive opinions on this, all I ever read is "future games might utilize more than 2GB" and stuff like that. Or if you are into 3D modelling, rendering or GPU calculations, then it also makes sense to pick more.
I picked 4GB because it was only marginally more expensive. YOu will prob. be fine with 2GB.

Mini or FE in small form factor?

What made you pick it over the 1050?
Also what games are you playing with it?

>What made you pick it over the 1050?
I didn't really compare, I guess I like to waste money
haven't opened it yet so I might send it back, thanks for the tip, although 1050Ti 4GB is 30€ more expensive
>Also what games are you playing with it?
Cities Skylines, TF2, crap games like that

>lazy ass retard OP can't make a proper thread
Get cancer and die you retarded fuck.

Serious question. I read about the issue with Z170 mobos, >3000 RAM, XMP and that combinations like Asus Z170-A or Z170 Gaming Pro and Corsair LPX 3000 RAM does NOT run at 3000, but at 2133.
How can i prevent this from happening to me and how can i choose RAM that will run at the advertised speed? The problem is that Corsair LPX is in fact on Asus compatibility list and should run, but evidentially it does not.
I am asking this because of Asus cash back shit until 29.01.17, i think about getting a Asus Z170/B150 Pro Gaming (depends on whether i get a 6500 or 6700K) and a RX470/480 or GTX 1060/1070 since you can get up to two cash backs.

It's not going to make your gaems load quicker.

Whats the frame rate for C:S, and is it a "smooth" experience?

I have a FX 6100 and 4 Gb memory. Which GPU can I get that will at least run GTA V on medium?

600p is a piece of shit

I haven't put it in my computer yet, sorry

my current HD7750 often dips below 30 fps in C:S and that certainly is not smooth, but it's playable

Favorite game, but it forced me to buy 16 gib of ram, and I'm just wondering if a 8gib 480 would be a better choice than a 4gib model.

fagtron build, coming through
pcpartpicker.com/list/gHdfxY

it certainly is with resolutions above 1920x1080, other than that, maybe