/pcbg/ - PC Building General

Post your component list, rate other anons', ask questions in general.

Always state the purpose of your PC, your budget, AND YOUR COUNTRY if outside the USA.
If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price or to improve specs or build quality.

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons by vendor and compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com

>Gaming builds based on purpose or display resolution / Hz
>To activate the Description, select build from sidebar then click on the title over the parts list
>Description contains notes, other options, and build skeleton for easy customization / cost savings
pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/

>Have a budget, but don't know where to start? This will recommend you a parts list based on price.
>Consider substituting an i5 6500 for the i3 in any RX470/480 or GTX 1060 tier build
>Consider stock fan+heatsink for any i3 or locked i5 build
>Consider a B150 mobo for any i3 build
>Add a 240GB SSD to the "Great" tier build
logicalincrements.com/

>General build advice including chipset compatibility, power supply advice, Windows activation information.
pastebin.com/9Pbm4nHL (embed)

>Information about how to assemble a PC, how to select components, etc.
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC


If you see any other build advice or part list threads, direct them here with Previous thread

Other urls found in this thread:

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/LyqZXH
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/tyLmNN
pcpartpicker.com/list/Hg4Ld6
ple.com.au/Products/614339/Seasonic-350W-OEM-80PLUS-Gold-Power-Supply
pcpartpicker.com/list/FHzV2R
pcpartpicker.com/list/stVvD8
ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=3550&LH_Complete=1&LH_Sold=1&_osacat=164&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC1.A0.H1.X3550 3.3.TRS0&_nkw=3550 3.3&_sacat=164
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/hfMWJV
ple.com.au/Products/619484/TP-LINK-WN725N-150Mbps-Wireless-N-USB-Nano-Adapter
pcpartpicker.com/product/DPCwrH/seasonic-power-supply-ssr550rm,
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

...

Get an i5 6500, otherwise it's fine.

Thanks, for the reply. Bump

Do all vendor certified ram on asus z170 gaming pro boards have XMP profiles?

...

I know and i'm done with it, having nothing else sucks big time. The main reason why i'm asking is Zen vs. Sky / Kaby Lake and how long will each CPU probably last me.

ca.pcpartpicker.com/list/LyqZXH

More or less what I have right now, mobo/ram are not quite right.
How does the 6GB of vram affect the rendering? I understand a more powerful GPU, but I've never really understood how VRAM plays a role.


Speaking of ram, would more ram be benificial to cadding software? I tend to hover around 60-70% of my ram utilitization on average.

...

Is raidz really necessary for a torrentbox? Would a JBOD setup actually be better? Is risk of disk failure while rebuilding the pool overstated? I don't like the idea of losing a many TBs of data instead of just the few in a JBOD setup. Convince me raidz is the way to go.

I can vouch for EVGA.

I've been pushing a EVGA 560 to its absolute limits since 2012 and it's still working perfectly. Probably over 10k hours of high load in all those years.

Probably gonna get EVGA for my next card next year.

>asking Sup Forums
That's like asking Hitler about what his opinion is on menorahs

>sapphire at bottom
sauce, delet this, etc.

>sapphire at the bottom
Because it's ayymd. It's the best for Radeon cards though.

who likes my sleeper/fuckaround/LAN party box?

>asking the double digit IQ club that is Sup Forums on anything
>asking the autistic children daycare that is Sup Forums
>asking on Sup Forums for technology
>Zotac is somehow bad
>Palit not listed, Gainward is Palit rebrand, somehow bad
>Sapphire is somehow bad
>EVGA listed as good after 1070/1080 literal VRAM Housefireā„¢
Get off this board, now.

au.pcpartpicker.com/list/tyLmNN

Goal is a near-silent HTPC build for ultra lite computer work (max load would be watching a youtube video).

It's the second computer for my wife and I, and so needs barely any storage; can access other content via network share. It'll be in our lounge room as a media PC/stream box for the kids to watch online content and conntected to the TV.

>The 450SF has a 0 RPM mode, which I want to use, which is why I chose it over the Silverstone SF models

any feedback?

You might want to check out the Node 202 from Fractal for a good ITX case.

It also has the option to get it with a PSU, by the way.

>The 450SF has a 0 RPM mode, which I want to use, which is why I chose it over the Silverstone SF models
Dude.. don't. That's 130 bucks out the window. Just get the cheap Silverstone and you're good.
Also, if you want a slient system, the PSU is the least of your problems m8.

How does my completely silent gaming build look?
pcpartpicker.com/list/Hg4Ld6

The perfect build to play pong on DOS.

if i buy a mobo that supports 2133 ram but my ram is 2400 will it still work

The point is that you're comparing apples to oranges. Intels mobile "i5s" are actually underpowered desktop i3s.

An i5 6500 will last you forever as a office PC.

If you need more RAM just buy another 4GB stick. The other guy's advice is solid (Haswell i7 + new gfx card).

Yeah but it will run at 2133. 2400 might be supported natively by Kaby Lake CPUs

7200rpm 3TB HDDs. Which one, friends?

>Toshiba
124.30 AUD

>HGST
195 AUD

Hi /pcbg/ this is not exactly about PC building but I need some advice. I need to buy a gaming laptop. Yes it has to be a laptop because I move a lot. No, I don't play demanding things like FPS, mostly rpgs and strategy and old stuff. But I need it to hold up dammit. So from my research it looks like an i5-7 with a geforce 960m, and most possibly an Asus since in my long years using laptops it's been the most solid brand by very far. I think I'm not being very retarded here but I'd appreciate any input you might have.

Hitachi is love, Hitachi is life

Build a mini ITX PC

Otherwise get a 10XX series laptop

I'm planning on playing some 1080p games at Ultra settings. It's just one part of the network.

Seasonic ECO Series 430W 80PLUS Bronze Power Supply

or

Corsair VS 450W ATX Power Supply

or something else? this is for a low end mitx build, and i cant seem to find a psu thats decent price for low wattage

or this one seems good because of the gold rating, but doesnt have the power chord?

ple.com.au/Products/614339/Seasonic-350W-OEM-80PLUS-Gold-Power-Supply

ASUS is the shittiest brand on the face of this Earth. I've literally never had a motherboard branded ASUS that worked without issues, and my STRIX graphics card is currently in RMA. (And no, that's not two products, that's 11 different models of ASUS crapware.)

gigabite or asrock?

HGST has the lowest failure rate. Toshiba has the second lowest.

Finished this build last week from begging and giveaways

>Seasonic vs. Corsair VS
Are you kidding? That is no comparison at all. Seasonic is orders of magnitudes better. The only time Corsair was ever good is when Seasonic made their PSU internals exclusively. Then they've started shitting out low quality crap like the CX and VS series...

Both are decent, but generally speaking, you get more features for the same money with ASRock, and Gigabyte is pissing me off personally, by habitually releasing a fuckton of revisions for the same model of motherboard.

>SNSV
>elite tier


I went from Asus to Gigabyte on my last build and immediately noticed a huge positive difference. Asus is just overprice ricer shit.

just asking, so basically seasonic = goat?

on that note, who made the corsair ax 760i? got that in my other pc.

>PNY
>Asus
>XFX
>EVGA

>good

wow. just fucking wow

if my pcparetpicker says 200w estimate (which i wonder how accurate that is) is a 350w psu enough? its "gold"

Anything that was made either by Seasonic or Superflower is god tier. The i series of Corsair PSUs are digital, and made AFAIK by Flextronics. Those are good. But the VS and CX series is just total garbage.

A new I5 4690k costs the same as a 6400 in my country.
Which one would be better for emulation + 60fps/1080p gaming when paired with a gtx 1060?
I feel like the 4690k would be better but it would come back to bite me in the ass in future upgrades because of mobo + ddr4.
What do you guys think?

Corsair PSUs suck. I stopped buying them after several failed on me. Then I went PC power and cooling which I found out was a subsidiary of Corsair. Fuck me.

>Always state the purpose of your PC
General use mid-line gaming computer: Lenovo desktop k330. I bought it around March 2011.

>If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price or to improve specs or build quality.
The actual question is should I keep my i5-2300 intel CPU that came with the Lenovo desktop k330 and just upgrade my graphics card from Nvidia GTX 550ti to Nvidia GTX 1050ti?

Only makes the Quadro Cards for Nvidia. ASUS generally has good products but muh RMA maymay. xfx is good. EVGA is ok
Go back to .reddit.

pcpartpicker.com/list/FHzV2R
thoughts and suggestions?

Just got a new 1060 and it has the same problem as my old amd card. Lots of games get rendered without any regard for the AA settings in the the NCP/CCC, just the game's settings, which seems to be more and more bare bones these days. I used a 3rd party workaround years ago but I can't remember what, it was AMD only as well, I think.

So how do you force AA in games when the "override application settings" option won't do it?

pcpartpicker.com/list/stVvD8
Get a 1080 Ti in January

I'm looking to move my rig from an antec 1200 to as small and minimal a case as possible.

I have a full ATX board that I can't replace unless I also upgrade CPU so I'd like it to be able to fit that.

The smallest reasonable I've been able to find are only mid towers.

So I've got around $2000 to blow on building a pc, first-time builder here. Thinking about going for a GTX 1080 with an I7 6700K, 8GB RAM and 2TB HDD. Not sure about case/PSU/mobo yet. Are those parts about where I should be aiming with 2k? Is getting 16GB of RAM a better idea, considering it's $50 vs $100 that I could instead spend on, say, getting a $50 better mobo?

I have a 300W PSU right now in my prebuilt machine. I was looking to do a simple upgrade of a graphics card since the integrated one is garbage. What can I put safely into the machine without risking safety. Eventually I intend to upgrade the power supply as well, but I'm taking this one step at a time.

I was thinking about the Radeon 460 Windforce since i heard it could run without too much power. This is the first time I'll be fiddling with this computer at all, so I'm not really sure what my options are.

ahh, of course, thanks

>windows 10

Gigabyte of course, Assrock is shit

Post it, fag

4690K would be better for emulation, plus you can OC
But a modern platform probably isn't much more.

Considering your PSU has a 6-pin power connector, you can get a better gfx card like an RX470 (make sure it only requires a 6-pin) or a GTX 1060. You might want the 1060 if the power budget is tight.

Replace the CPU with an Ivy Bridge i5.

If your mobo has a standard power connector, you could replace the PSU if yours is very low wattage.

The other real issue is that I have a $300 budget. I'm trying to get both of them if possible, but my priority is the graphics card.

You can fix this through the NCP
There's a "use applications settibgs" or "use global settibgs"

Sell everything and build new. Post speccy

Don't forget SSD. Your money would be better spent on a nice 1440p Gsync VA panel monitor

If you're getting all that for a 1080p monitor you are clearly a shithead who doesn't deserve his money

RX470 - $180 new
i5 3550 - $70 used
ebay.com/sch/i.html?_odkw=3550&LH_Complete=1&LH_Sold=1&_osacat=164&_from=R40&_trksid=p2045573.m570.l1313.TR11.TRC1.A0.H1.X3550 3.3.TRS0&_nkw=3550 3.3&_sacat=164

au.pcpartpicker.com/list/hfMWJV
ram is just 1x8gb stick, pcp doesnt list it though.

I probs wont even get the gpu honestly, i dont do much stuff but its just there as an estimate of power if i decide to upgrade in the future.

it feels kinda wierd spending this much on an i3 build, but ive been told theyre good enough, no gaming.

Again, gpu is there for estimated wattage for in the future only!

was gonna get a 350w gold seasonic

>Sell everything and build new. Post speccy
Sounds like a really shit idea

Low wattage PSU is fine. That board doesn't have wifi

Eh, unless you got a golden chip and OC'd it, why not? You can get quite a bit of money if you live in a populated area and use it build mini ITX

Otherwise mid tower is basically what you're looking at

>That board doesn't have wifi
funny you should say, the next cheapest board was an asrock one for $165, so i was just gonna buy this ple.com.au/Products/619484/TP-LINK-WN725N-150Mbps-Wireless-N-USB-Nano-Adapter instead. should work right?

why does old tech like ddr3, hd7970's and 8350's barely change in price? Here in australia especially, my pc only decreased by $100 in value when its over 4 years old, according to pcpartpicker anyway

USB wifi isn't great unless you're in the same room as the router

Used prices are a lot lower. New 7970s aren't being produced, so they hold their value. For instance the occasional hacintosh fag buys them, or at least they used to

mPCIe wifi adapters are the same
So are cheap PCIe ones
Really you just get one with an antenna and you'll be good
They're all temporary fixes until you buy an Ethernet cable thoug

PCIe adapters can draw a lot more power. Whole different ballgame.

USB 3.1 can too, doesn't mean it won't be trash anyways

I guess I should say that the machine is the Inspiron 3847

Intel(R)4600 Graphics Card

Intel(R) Core(TM) i5-4460 CPU @ 3.20GHz Processors

300W PSU

I've been using my PCIe Wifi adapter without much concern for power. But damn it was fast (for Wifi). Large antennaes, long cables, and placement makes all the difference. Damn near peaked at 700MB/s on a LAN connection.

cant get above 10mb/s anyway due to aussie internet. are they really that bad though?

Your reply was pointless, irrelevant, and factually incorrect

would a really old cd drive use todays sata+power combo thing? im talking 2005/6 drive here

Exactly my point

It's about the signal strength from the router / losing connection, not bandwidth

1050Ti, unless you want to get a better PSU as well, in which case you would definitely want a better gfx card. The 1050Ti is the best "prebuilt" card, so they charge a premium but it's definitely worth it to people who don't have PCIe power connectors

No, but you can get molex + IDE to SATA adapters. Not worth it.

1440p obviously

>Add a 240GB SSD to the "Great" tier build
I have 240GB SSD in there by default, now.

Neato

So if I were to add a 550W like pcpartpicker.com/product/DPCwrH/seasonic-power-supply-ssr550rm, what would be a good, still relatively budget option for a graphics card? I'm trying to keep the upgrade under 300 or so dollars, so 150 or less for the Graphics card would be about where I'm looking.

ah kk, it probably would just be though 1 or 2 walls, so nothing major. my other wifi devices work with it

RX470, the extra $30 is worth it

If 100 watts and 1.25GB/S isn't enough to get wifi then your problem isn't the adapter

speaking of all this usb wifi, is it very cpu intensive? or is it basically negligable

So I'm looking to build a new 1080p based system and salvage as much as I can from my previous budget build (Speccy included). Budget shouldn't go above $600 USD (possibly even $500) but I can salvage the case (ATX Mid), the PSU, a 212 Evo fan, and the HDD.

I checked the pcbg link in the OP and was wondering if it was worth it to replace the mobo for an Intel CPU, or instead, can I stick with my current mobo and CPU and not risk bottle-necking a new card like a RTX 470/480 or GTX 1060 and spend the money on a new display and SSD?

just get an a10 chip and a 470

Almost completely negligible
If you're permanently using wifi (why the fuck would you? But assuming you would) then get a dual band PCIe/mPCIe wifi adapter, a dual band router and an antenna or leads for an antenna
But if you just want your wifi to work, get a $8 USB wifi adapter and work on finding a big Ethernet cable

Unfortunately you can't use FX CPUs with that board (from what I read off gigabyte's site), so you definitely want to upgrade your mobo/CPU/RAM.

So you're looking at (at min)
>i3 6100 + B150 + 8GB DDR4
>240GB SSD
>Gfx card
>1080p 60Hz display ($50 used)

You can probably get $75 for your mobo+CPU+RAM

>get a dual band PCIe/mPCIe
Can't, he's on mini-ITX

I'm about to buy a z170 setup after having 10 year old 775-stuff. How much different is overclocking memory & cpu now? Is raising the FSB clock and having that boost both cpu and memory still a thing, or is that gone completely? I'm reading some conflicting information on how clocking memory works in relation to the FSB/whatever it is called now.

With your budget, you cannot get all six items, so you have to weigh the benefits of each path. Getting a new screen, new card, and SSD will do much more to improve your overall experience than getting new CPU, mobo, and RAM. Sticking with your current CPU means that you will be bottlenecking your new card in CPU-intensive games, but it will not be THAT big a bottleneck, as the 955 is still decent. Having a weaker CPU is something that you can live with until you can upgrade, and the new SSD will help make everything feel faster.

Is there such a thing as 1080p144hz IPS? My search leads me to think no, and I refuse to accept a TN panel. Considering 1440p144Hz, what is the projected performance if I were to get a 1070 to power it? Would I have to accept lower frame rate in a couple years? Even going that way and justifying $500-$700 for the monitor, I still am forced to take 27" instead of 24".

Can someone please illuminate this quagmire?

He can get a mPCIe wifi card though, that's what 100% of "onboard wifi" ITX boards use, they just wire an antenna plug to the I/O

A 1070 can run a lot of games at 1440p/144hz, and even more if you're willing to lower settings, but it can't play everything. It CAN basically play everything at 1440p/60fps though.
You refuse to buy a TN, that's your mistake and your money, TN panels have gotten great, and you can get 10-bit color with them (most panels including IPS use 8-bit) for reasonable prices
You can't get a high Hz IPS monitor for a reasonable price, that's just unrealistic 1080p or 1440p

Look into VA panels. You probably don't need 144Hz, but you definitely want more than 60Hz

His board doesn't have it. He's looking at an H110

>With your budget, you cannot get all six items,
Yes he can. 1080p monitors are a dime a dozen these days

1080@144Hz screens are all older models. You are most likely correct: They are all TN panels. If you want IPS@144Hz, you need to get 1440p, and it is quite pricey.

I am using a 1440p@144Hz screen right now, with an R9 290. It is fine for most mainstream games. Your 1070 will get 100+FPS in most games other than Witcher 3-tier stuff. You will still get ~60FPS in Witcher 3, but that is not really making the most of your 144Hz screen.

would that require soldering?

its good to know its almost negligable. I really dont need fast speeds though, as 10mb (1.2MB) is the fastest available to me

They have lead screws

New card: $200
New screen: $150
New SSD: $80

That is $430 already. Seeing that the fellow is budget conscious,
>Budget shouldn't go above $600 USD (possibly even $500)
it would be better if he saved the remainder until he has enough for an i3 ($120), mobo ($80), and RAM ($40). Maybe the Zen stuff will be cheaper.

Of course, if he can get the card/screen for much cheaper than what I put up there, then he can make it fit.

But like user said, make sure your board actually has a mPCIe slot