>Headphone purchase advice
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>Sup Forums wiki headphone FAQ:
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I prefer the m40x
is this the final boss of headphones search?
yep, end game for only $300
It fucking is for me. The 650 is the only thing that has come close. I'd love to hear the 800 and all the other ridiculously expensive headphones in comparison. I can't ever see myself 'upgrading' from them.
How does the HD600 compare to the AKG K712?
Grado 80e vs Sony MDR v6?
can some one give me an review of the mdr v6s?
>How does the HD600 compare to the AKG K712?
wipes the floor with it.
No, unless you are never going to listen to anything around anyone else. The lack of noise containment is a huge turn-off with these.
>MDR v6
this. Grados are antiques. mid-grade sound + extremely uncomfortable.
be an alpha and tell others to get their own cans. I've worked in an open office and no one complained about the noise from my cubicle. there's tons of other sound/noise in offices.
1. 600
2. 650
3. k712
4.702
That's my opinion. The k712s are clean, wide and have a fairly strong amount of bass. The problem is that the bass is bloated as fuck imo. The treble is also a bit harsh. The 600's make everything sound fucking perfect unless you're a mega bass head. Bass is the only downside, but they have just enough weight to make them enjoyable for rap etc.
Sennheiser HD 598 Cs or the DT770?
Which is the better choice?
>HD 598 Cs
great sound, nicer fit and a detachable cable.
DT 770's for sure
770's.
Grab the DT 770s
speedy speed boy
DT 770s, easy.
They sound clearer than the HD 598 CS, and they isolate sound better too; which you'd probably want for closed headphones. Both headphones are comfy, but the 598 CS may be a tad bit comfier.
So I bought 598CS as a gift on black friday because of how good the 598's are. I've only just actually tried the 598CS I gifted on a regular PC audio setup. For comparison's sake I plugged my own open-backed 598's on the same wire and get the same sound as I'd expect from them.
I'm gonna be honest, they sounded absolutely fuckin terrible, like unbelievably bad. Is there something I'm missing here? I'm talking skullcandy bad. I'm wondering if the 598CS requires an amplifier or something to not sound like people shouting at you down a tin alleyway? Possibly a known QC issue? I feel compelled to make it right.
>required an amplifier
Probably not. They are not hard-to-drive headphones.
They're just bad. All they share with actual 598's is the name, they don't even use the same driver.
Gave me the idea of trying them both on my phone. They're certainly not similar headphones in terms of how they sound but the quality is pretty obviously better. There's still a touch of 'emptiness', but it's not complete shit like from the PC. Any reason why a particular PC would work well with one pair but not the other? And solutions? I'm thinking a PCI sound card unless that's not something people do now.
Are you using the headphones with your motherboard? That might be the case.
Yeah the onboard card. I'm trying to control as much as possible to identify the issue and the open backed 598's work just fine on it. Literally take the wire out and swap to the others and it sounds shit.
Do you know what DAC your motherboard uses, and does your 598 also sound better on your phone? Pretty confusing, to be honest.
One of the slightly better realteks but that's all I can remember. It's on a mid-high end mobo.
On my phone the open backed ones are better, quite a bit better, but the closed back ones don't sound terrible, like more in line with what they cost me to buy. From what I've read people report it sounds a little like the audio source is a radio which is in line with what I meant by emptiness.
Could be an EQ thing (though I never intentionally added one) in which the 598CS responds horribly. If I can just bypass everything with some integrated or semi-integrated solution then it's possibly worth the buy.
Spent some time making an updated(new) guide. It should be more simple and neutral than before. I decided to ditch the price range but I haven't added any models below 200 dollars yet. Pros and cons were removed as they were rather contradicting and bullet points can be used for same things as well as describe other features without them being strictly positive or negative. Aesthetic changes all around but font stayed the same. This unfinished version includes open backs only.
So what to add, remove or change? Criticize and explain why.
I'll reply to people answering tomorrow. Now it's bedtime.
...
I think you should add an "amplifier necessary" symbol. Saying that an amp is just "beneficial" for the HD800's could be misleading. In that price range it become sort of necessary.
Add the Philips SHP9500/9500S for ~$50.
Pros:
>Easy to drive; no AMP needed
>Comfy and light
>Decent build quality for the price
>Flat mid-range
Cons:
>Lacking sub-bass
>Non-replaceable pads
>Somewhat uneven treble response
Neutral:
>Somewhat bright sound signature
>Light clamp force
>Bass roll off
Other Notes:
>Pads are large but shallow
>Pads are replaceable with mods
>Overall plastic build with steel headbands
>'S' version includes no 3.5mm to 1/4" adaptor
>Cloth pads
>Inb4 Philips shill
Good night, sleepy time user.
>Add the Philips SHP9500/9500S for ~$50.
KYS, pajeet shill.
What? I'm not even him/her.
I got no r8s on my portable setup last time
Pls r8 m8 no h8 b str8 no b8
Adding to ; what's so bad about those headphones compared to other headphones for the price range?
>DT880
>Comes in many variations
I think you could make that more specific with something like "comes in two variations with multiple impedance options" or simply exclude that part and add a "Pro version: X ohms, Y ohms etc"
"Premium version: "X ohms, Y ohms etc"
You could also say when a headphone as detachable cables, that's a plus for many people.
Using them. Love them. Comfortable as hell and sound great. Currently lurking for a closed back alternative with detachable cable for work.
Gas
AK300 is just too sexy but I dont feel like spending that much money
what should I do
Save up money?
I need a quick rundown on how replay gain works and how I should use it. I have a playlist with about 350 songs, and some are from the 70s/80s before the loudness wars and all that jazz. If I have my player at an acceptable volume and a more recent track comes up my head explodes.
I used Foobar2000 and scanned per track gain, which added tags to the files that when I turned on replay gain on my Fiio X3 did normalize the volume and brought them all more or less to the same perceivable volume. The issue is that tracks were way too quiet and I had to crank the volume well past 100 which did kill the battery faster. What this did is bring all tracks down to the levels of the tracks from the 70's.
Is there a way to bring the volume of the old tracks up so I don't have to raise the volume so much?
I'm curious, where & when exactly do you listen to music with that setup?
Outside exclusively pretty much. Inside I use my K550's which can barely be seen on the right side.
Good evening.
I have a similar setup (X1 + M6 Pro iems), I use it at work, when doing yard work, etc. Don't have to worry about it much since the X1 and the iems were both $50 each.
>Outside exclusively pretty much
Please expand your use case.
>I use it at work, when doing yard work, etc.
Interesting. How much isolation do they have?
Listing both pros and cons might be a good idea, or at least more than just 4 points about each one
HD 650 needs its own spot next to the HD 600 rather than existing only as a bullet point
Good evening, user.
Should i buy this Xiaomi relaxed headphones? They seem comfy but I can't find a review of them, or should I buy the hybrid headphones? Thanks
>Interesting. How much isolation do they have?
There isn't any technical specs listed for isolation, but they do isolate really well for me, using the large triple flange tips. Without playing any music, outside noise sounds like using NPR ~30 dB ear plugs.
They're garbage. Save your money and buy something better.
Dude, you stick out like you have a user name.
> two cables to the headphones, one to each side
> cables are non-detachable
> doesn't have Bluetooth
> doesn't act as a USB sound card when connected to a computer
> doesn't even have USB
this isn't the 1960s
You will many times get better results from your on-board audio if you connect your headphones to the audio output on the back of your computer. The DACs on all newer motherboards are excellent. The cables that go from the motherboard to the front panel connector on most cases are cheap, rarely isolated and act as an antenna which picks up all kinds of things from the components inside your box.
>cables are non-detachable
Wrong
>Proprietary cable
Might as well be.
> cables are non-detachable
>Proprietary cable
>> two cables to the headphones, one to each side
better than fucking cables that go to only one side and then snake through the headband. Those are prone to breaking.
>> cables are non-detachable
stfu
>> doesn't have Bluetooth
kek'd. I see you're a comedian now and this is a pretty good bait.
>Might as well be.
it's not proprietary. there's dozens of types of repalcements you can buy. even chinks sell them for $15 on chinkshit sites.
Again, you stick out like you have a username.
I fail to see your point. yes, I don't capitalize sentences but so what. get a life dude. at least have a fucking argument in your posts.
>>> doesn't have Bluetooth
>kek'd. I see you're a comedian now and this is a pretty good bait.
You seem to be one of those who whined when CDs replaced the LP so I'll give you a clue:
Both USB and Bluetooth 4 has more than enough bandwidth to carry stereo audio. Both of these give you a digital signal directly to the headphones. It's then up to the DAC in the headphones to feed it's AMP with something awesome the drivers can feed your ears.
If you buy a toy $20 bluetooth headset then you're going to get a cheap half-baked DAC and cheap-ass drivers. If you pay for good audio quality you'll get something that sounds totally awesome and it will do so regardless of what device is playing. The advantage of being able to get that amazing sound on your phone, laptop, desktop computer or anything else is huge. Those outdated headphones which just have that old 3.5mm connector just don't cut it. Many don't even sound right without a dedicated DAC+AMP.
Not only that, but you constant shilling of Sennheiser bothers me; even when they are completely shit.
I don't want batteries you dumbfuck. I don't want dropouts whenver someone turns on a fucking microwave. I don't want pops and clicks when I use a USB3 device or use wifi. I don't want headphones with a shit impedance and shit dynamics range because of shit power requirements. I don't want headphones that I can't quickly adjust volume on.
Bluetooth is fucking garbage.
guy asks a question about 598, I reply. what the fuck am I shilling? am I posting advertisements? am I bringing up sennheiser or 598 into every reply I make? am I making posts and sennheiser?
you're a fucking idiot and a shithead.
Man, not only that, but you get mad too easily.
Not him, but I own the 598 Cs and they are not shit. They're good at that $100 closed back price range.
are you that guy who constantly shills Philips garbage headphones and gets butthurt when people call him up on it? or are you that Schiit shill who constantly posts links to Fulla2, headfi and audiobot? if you want shills, those are shills. just because I prefer 598 over dt770 and reply to a guy who asked about preference doesn't make me a shill. I couldn't care less what you retards buy.
>I don't want batteries you dumbfuck.
Too bad. :)
> I don't want dropouts whenver someone turns on a fucking microwave.
Doesn't happen.
> I don't want pops and clicks when I use a USB3 device or use wifi.
Also doesn't happen.
> I don't want headphones with a shit impedance and shit dynamics range because of shit power requirements.
Then don't buy cheap ones.
> I don't want headphones that I can't quickly adjust volume on.
That's what those huge buttons on the headphones are for. They also let you play/pause and switch track.
You don't have to be so mad just because sennheiser doesn't make any modern headphones. There's probably museums and old people who want that outdated crap.
Personally... if a pair of headphones don't have bluetooth and USB then they ain't worth my consideration anymore. USB is less important, I guess I could live with that but there are computers that don't have Bluetooth and situations where Bluetooth and other wireless aren't allowed (not that I go to the hospital that frequently...).
why are you so mad because new technology has replaced old?
They are pretty coloured and can get muddy at times. For the price, I can argue AKG and Beyerdynamic make better closed headphones.
No, i'm different; I don't think that he has posted in awhile. But I am curious, what makes the HD 598 Cs better than the DT 770? All I got was """great""" sound.
Just got Grado SR80e for 50$ on ebay. Did I fug up /hpg/? My only other pair of good headphones were HD650 but they broke 6 months ago.
>tfw I just got a pair of sr60e's for $52 on ebay
Put me out of my misery
>Broke after 6 months
Kek. What happened?
>Doesn't happen.
It does.
lmgtfy.com
>Also doesn't happen.
It does.
lmgtfy.com
>Then don't buy cheap ones.
even the expensive ones don't have good dynamic range. price has nothing to do with it. weight and batteries do.
>That's what those huge buttons on the headphones are for. They also let you play/pause and switch track.
I don't wanna tap to the side of my head. that produces noise since earcups act like a drum.
anyway, I know you're trolling but Bluetooth is fucking shit. serious audio quality lovers should avoid it like a plague. it's only good for voice and calls.
Left driver gave out completely, it always had a slight whine to it, so it wasn't surprising. They were also a refurb pair from Amazon from like 2011, so they definitely lasted longer than I thought they would.
>No, i'm different; I don't think that he has posted in awhile. But I am curious, what makes the HD 598 Cs better than the DT 770? All I got was """great""" sound.
dt707 are v-shaped and 598 is more neutral. cable is also not detachable on dt770 and you can't easily buy a replacement for it (you have to send it to manufacturer and if it's not under warranty, you've just lost them). ear cups on dt770s are round and big while 598's are oval which seal your ears a lot better.
for all those reasons, I prefer 598.
What? Are we talking about the same CLOSED EDITION 598s?
HD600 is flatter - it has less bass and less treble, K712 is a bit like a rollercoaster in response, warm bass, thick lower midrange, slight dip at 1kHz, then rises up at 2kHz, then dips at 4kHz and a bit harsh at 7kHz. Not really a problem unless you're an autist like me.
HD600 has a dip around 8kHz but dips are less noticeable than peaks.
DT770.
MDR-V6.
You could mention HD800S the same way you mentioned HD650 as a different alternative without making a separate mention.
feels good to have these on my head rn
598CS, unless bass is all you care about.
Have you replaced the earpads?
Funny because I owned both and 598Cs is fucking muddy garbage.
I say this as a HD600 shill too.
DT 770s are v-shaped with emphasis on treble and bass.
HD 598 Cs' warm headphones with colorization. They can also get really muddy at times.
Both have their pros and cons, so pick whichever you'd like.
Can anyone suggest some headphones I can look into?
I really liked my m50s.
>Budget
Approx $150
>Location
Usa
>Source
Asus xonar essence stx
>Type of headphone
>Open or closed
Closed
>Comfort level
Don't care
>Sound signature
Don't care
>Past headphones
M50
m50x
m40x
DT770 80 ohm
m30x
DT 770 or Custom One Pro
You mixed up the > and
Post cans
alright i need some advice. ive got roughly $25 dollars and i need to replace my Sony-MDRZX110W headphones. they have lasted me a long time and work fairly well for being so cheap, but my new computers soundcard has an awful amp inside so im going to need a new pair with a usb or battery powered amp. if theres another solution for this that lets me use these for longer im fine with that too. im also in the market for a microphone so i was thinking of getting a meme headset used like the turtlebeach DXL1, but the last pair i got had to be rewired like 4 times in a single year so im hesitant to buy another pair. so basically
>want to spend about $25, theres some wiggle room if needed
>want over the ear/on the ear headphones
>needs an amp to raise the volume
>if i can fit a mic, even just a clip-on in that would be appreciated
cute anime included to inspire visions of you helping a young girl
>>needs an amp to raise the volume
What the fuck does that even mean
Get the Monoprice DJ you poorfag animeposter
monoprice 8323. They're uncomfortable, but bearable if you stretch them out or buy different pads. Then you can buy a $1 lapel mic.
>my new computers soundcard has an awful amp inside so im going to need a new pair with a usb or battery powered amp.
This isn't something you're going to fix for 25 bucks, including headphones.
those look perfect! thanks alot user, it doesnt help my volume problem but its definitely worth getting.
well thats why i was looking into "gaming" headsets, because they all seem to come with some form of usb powered volume control. this problem is stupid as fuck, ive never had a laptop with such shitty hardware before, its actually pitiful.
668B's with SR950 Pads
You probably won't need an amp with them, I can drive them off of anything and be alright. There are some amps that are like $30 you could get in the future though.
You could probably get a cheap adapter like this
store.vikings.net
To control the volume outside your soundcard. I'm not sure how they perform, but I guess you get what you pay for. You could probably find a similar dongle for cheaper.
store.vikings.net