/wt/ Watch Thread

This thread is about the appreciation of watches, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to produce a fine watch.

>Required Viewing For Newbies:
youtu.be/_2J5phyd9J4
>Strap Guide:
pastebin.com/SwRysprE

Previous thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

ebay.com/itm/322454156831
hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-sbgr305-independent-introducing
hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-octo-finissimo-automatique-introducing
kickstarter.com/projects/1655017763/cst-01-the-worlds-thinnest-watch/updates
amazon.com/Spring-Bar-Pin-Watch-Tool/dp/B0129CJNUY/ref=sr_1_2?s=apparel&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1490271650&sr=1-2&nodeID=7141123011&psd=1&keywords=spring bar tool&refinements=p_85:2470955011,p_72:2661618011
twitter.com/ry4/status/844907504140214280
omegawatches.com/watches/seamaster/diver-300-m/co-axial-3625-mm/21230362051001/
sinn.de/en/Modell/104_St_Sa_I.htm
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

1st for rightly treated shitters!

Omega can't actually make proper co-axial escapements yet. They fail in accomplishing the things that the creator's versions did. Rolex have longer service intervals despite the supposed inferiority of the movement.

>PERPETUAL JUST

I need a cheap but good 38mm watch in used condition with a black face.

Recommendations?

Holy shit the new Grand Seiko reissues are amazing

>"cheap"
Means different things for different people.
Post price bracket.
Also you have to tell people what kind of watch.
Dressy, sport, diver, pilot etc.?

Try ebay. Filter mens watches with your requirements, set the minimum price to maybe 30$ and select a brand you know to be a good one. Then see what you can get. If nothing you like comes up, try a different brand.

I found this: ebay.com/itm/322454156831 (pic related), but as said, you didn't really give me much to go with...

>inferiority of the movement
Elaborate? I understand the modern coaxials are meant to compete with modern Rolex but could you really classify them as superior?

Pictures?

Never buy curry shit

There's an article on Hodinkee.

Also GS is separate from Seiko now.
And the new Cucktail Time collection is ass.

Wow, that is nice.

IMO good move to separate the brand. No one wants to see SEIKO GRAND SEIKO

This can give it a lot more of a prestigious image, hopefully the price doesn't jump too high

I don't personally like the GS hands that much, but they sure could teach Rolex a lesson or two on the lengths of the hands.

>The price at launch will be $7,200, and expect ref.SBGR305 to be available in July. It will be a limited edition of 968 pieces.
hodinkee.com/articles/grand-seiko-sbgr305-independent-introducing

I like them myself, the finishing and the facets make them play with the light really nicely. But I see where you're coming from, they're classic and unoriginal. That's Grand Seiko as a whole.

That's a different model. I'm not sure how they fucked up so bad with the "AUTOMATIC" text though.

I like the finish as well, it's the shape that bothers me. I don't like these pointed hands, but I do understand why many do. They're not bad, just something I don't personally like.

Yeah, it clashes with the Grand Seiko logo quite badly. It could work if the AUTOMATIC was a light gray, as well as the Japan made at the bottom. Now the logo and the text pop out as much, which isn't very nice.

Seiko Sarb033

SARB033

Bulgari now has the thinnest auto movement in production, 2.23mm, the cal BVL 138
Finally toppled VC/APs cal 1120 which was 2. 45 mm

Not a huge fan of the design but it's cool to see these fashion brands actually use their money towards research not just hyping shitters

hodinkee.com/articles/bulgari-octo-finissimo-automatique-introducing

Anyone saved a picture of that guys destroyed Air King?
>flies off the roof of the car into the path of another, oncoming car, gets fucking destroyed, 5000$ loss
>Air King
It didn't fly so good.

Would be nice to see grand seiko do more wild case shapes like the old 62GS.

You could make the nicest dress watch ever with that movement, but of course they manage to produce a fuck-ugly watch, with a fuck-ugly movement.

>At launch, the Bulgari Octo Finissimo Automatique will retail for $13,000
If I want to strap dogshit to my wrist and vomit everytime I look at it, I can do it for much cheaper than $13,000

>thinnest movement
>not thinnest watch
What's the point?

>date window

Every fucking time. Does anyone seriously like date windows in new homages to vintage pieces?

I'm fine with the date window here. The bezel is way too wide though. It completely throws off the balance of the design.

Also, sadly, most people want date windows in their watches. They don't put them in for a laugh; watches with date sell massively better.

I don't mind if it's in a good place. That Autavia looks alright, but I wish TAG wouldn't just write only "Heuer" on their modern TAG-Heuer dogshit, it will get very confusing twenty years from now.

Also an example for a bad date window execution would be the Ripley Seiko remake. Fucking seriously? Couldn't they have put it somewhere around 4:30?

Becuase the thinnest watch is, while impressive, a quartz.

It is a quartz, but it's not that citizen.

I think I figured out something. Aren't Vostok Amphibia crowns the way they are because the movements were originally hand-wind only, unmodified for a screw down crown? If it didn't have the clutch you couldn't screw it in when fully wound.

Am I on to something? How did western manual wind divers solve this? Did their keyless work had an innermost, disconnected position or what?

Well...

kickstarter.com/projects/1655017763/cst-01-the-worlds-thinnest-watch/updates

Neat. Only took about 3 decades to beat the concord's record lel.

is this spring bar tool okay or should I get something else? $15 the sweet spot or should I just get a $7 version? Don't want to buy twice but I also don't want to overspend if they're all just chink shit anyway

amazon.com/Spring-Bar-Pin-Watch-Tool/dp/B0129CJNUY/ref=sr_1_2?s=apparel&rps=1&ie=UTF8&qid=1490271650&sr=1-2&nodeID=7141123011&psd=1&keywords=spring bar tool&refinements=p_85:2470955011,p_72:2661618011

Just got my Vostok

The strap is pretty shit. But I like the watch

While it's nice, it's too much of a grandpa watch for me.
Will the new Grand Seiko be more conservative and boring?

With photon power. That watch will never stop ticking.

>4:30
No because those are cancer unless it's not crooked which we all know it would be.

Other screw-down crowns are spring-loaded, so they disengage the same?

George Daniels' (inventor of the co-axial) watches never need any lubrication of the escapement because of the way they're built. He painstakingly made every piece of his watches by hand though, and when he took the design to other watch makers they found it almost impossible to copy, so basically none of them even tried to use it/

Omega have tried, but their version still needs lubrication anyway, in a much more complex way than a lever escapement, so the whole point of the original design has been removed. It's just a marketing tool which is more expensive to service.

You obviously know I was talking about thinnest full-rotor automatic, right?

No, it's for shock resistance. If you bump into the crown, even when locked, the stem isn't engaged so the movement doesn't get moved.

Either get a $1 tool or just get a bergeon 6767.

>Will the new Grand Seiko be more conservative and boring?
It will be just as conservative and boring as it's always been.

Seiko with their enameled dial line and now Grand Seiko with these incredible re-issues basically stole Baselworld. By miles the best classical designs unveiled this year.

I think /wt/ would praise a shit if it was produced by Grand Seiko.

That's what people say, but is it really the reason?

I have that tool but only used it once. Seems to be fine.

>And the new Cucktail Time collection is ass.

What did he mean by this?

Probably talking about these ones.

You have that backwards. Grand Seiko is one of the only companies that unveiled any new classically designed watches, rather than modern oversized gaudy monstrosities. It's the classical styling combined with a level of workmanship fair for the pricepoint that is the cause of /wt/ liking them.

That's not to say that everything GS does is great. Their chronographs are all hideous. So are their divers.

Yeah, those are pretty bad. I am really looking forward to this blue 62mas inspired design though.

The diver reissue is pretty great too, although too expensive for me.

Seiko makes a lot of terrible watches though.

Will someone buy me a white and blue Portuguese

Not a fan of the hands on this, otherwise it's very good.

Get a Parnis

Too big. Maybe the Tisell, but I'm afraid it will fall apart

Makes sense, thanks

r8

Here you go, user.

Poopoo peepee, but there is a version that's completely like the original, baton hands and all.

Too bad it's four kiloshekels. But at least it has the 8L35 and not just a 4R/6R.

Totally different pricepoints. I'd be looking at the blue one as a cheap waterproof beater to replace an SKX while having the virtue of being blue. Can always swap the hands once the modders get to work on it.

Either way this gives me hope for Seiko doing a 6105 remake.

Anyone have a Bonetto Cinturini? Thinking about getting one for my blue Ray II, a 300D specifically, black or navy.

i just got the email:

Aegis-II will begin open to take order.
Dear Customers,

Aegis-II Asembly and test were finished.
We will update the website and open to take order at around GMT 13:00 (HKT 21:00) Today (23rd March)

anybody else going to grab one?

If the lug to lug wasn't so huge I'd get the mother of pearl one.

this kid on twitter is claiming to have the Omega Seamaster James Bond 007

twitter.com/ry4/status/844907504140214280

i'm pretty sure it's a fake

omegawatches.com/watches/seamaster/diver-300-m/co-axial-3625-mm/21230362051001/

who cares?
i mean, besides you.
cease with this faggotry now pls

Kys yourself for having been following that line of untermensch screeching.

>this kid on twitter


Kill yourself

brush finish or sand blasted?

How stupid is buying a Sinn online (because there are basically no official retailers) without ever seeing it in perons?

We’re sorry. Aegis Gen-II | Sand Blasted Finishing | Black Bezel | Black Sunburst Dial | Neon Red Second Hand isn’t available right now.

We’re sorry. Aegis Gen-II | Brush Finishing | Black Bezel | Black Sunburst Dial | Neon Red Second Hand isn’t available right now.

what. the. mother. fuck.

well...

you're going to get shit from /wt/ for buying a Sinn in the first place.
however:
are you convinced that you're going to love it?
or are you on the fence about it?
if you're not completely convinced, you might want to take a look at the retailer's return policy

I'm getting a present and they insist it should be a new watch (from the store), so for that price I'm either getting a Sinn or Oris, no much choice really. And between the two, I'd prefer Sinn from what I see online.

how often do you actually use your watch instead of jerking off about it?

fuck it man, just go for it
getting a watch as a gift though can be a personal challenge though if you don't like it
more so than buying one yourself and just being stuck with something you don't like
which one are you going to go for? can you post a link to it?

i wear one every day
sometimes i jerk off while wearing it
not sure if that answers your question user

I like the plain old sinn.de/en/Modell/104_St_Sa_I.htm
It's cheap, looks nice, and is not too dressy for every day wear.

kek they're ALL sold out

They sell out quick m8.

>sinn.de/en/Modell/104_St_Sa_I.htm
i have mixed feelings about Sinn
i can't say that i'm really a fan, but i can see how they appeal to some people
i actually like the one you referenced and i'd wear it
go for it user

Well what would be your choice in that price range? If it were up to me I'd put the money into a Bond but it must be new.

Too bad they ruined the dial and bezel. The original aegis was perfection, this one looks like shit.

how much is that watch?

thanks user, at least i won't have to suffer with a ruined dial & bezel

It says on the link, 1000EUR for rubber or leather strap, 1300EUR for metal. I could go like 500EUR over that, but there is really no much choice up until around 2500EUR for brand new.

$1300 MSRP last I checked.

that seems like a tough price range. i mean: it seems difficult to find a 'nice' new watch in that price range
i'd probably just go with the Sinn if you actually like it.
i'd get it on a steel bracelet

Congratulations to Bulgari on creating a watch even uglier and more prototype-ish than the Royal Oak. That thing looks like it just came out of a 3D printer.

...

That's what I did and it was fine. But I ordered from the authorized dealer for my country.

Those ultra high end independants make amazing watches, but how many of us can even see them in the flesh?

Ugly overcomplicated overdecorated dadcore trash.

Is the 31 hour power reserve noticeably short?

Just have to either be rich yourself or know someone who is. I got to see an ALS 1815 chrono in person at one point. Really is a gorgeous piece of work.

>Watch

This.

But I could just walk in a Lange boutique today and see all their models. They're everywhere.
I'm talking about the really small, ultra high-end independants who make small volumes.
Or more to the point: let me wear an Hajime Asaoka watxh already.

you mean this?

...