/wt/ Watch Thread

This thread is about the appreciation of watches, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to produce a fine BVLGARI watch.

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Alright /seikogeneral/

Can anyone give me the quick gestalt on the 6139 series of chronographs? Any former or current owners? What to look for when buying?

I love me some chronos and something like this really stands out from the pack, and being one of the first automatic chronographs is pretty neat too.

First for the greatest achievement of watchmaking, ever.

Why don't we appreciate the modern technology in quartz watches a bit more? Talk about it? Not call it dogshit?

The Bagelmeme is still alive

>Being Swedish
>Bagelmeme
How poor in Sweden does one have to be to buy and post Bagelmemes

>mfw Ninefag foaming at the mouth when he reads the OP

Spencer Klein has a very good video explain proper handling and common issues. (Appliable to 6138's as well).

we talk about nice quartz watches but most quartz watches ARE dogshit. well, most watches in general are dogshit

I would really look into and consider the Daini Seikosha produced 701x chronographs over the Suwa Seikosha produced 613x. The Daini caliber is, as usual, more reliable and less prone to developing issues, in particular it does not share the 613x's tendency to the vertical clutches wearing out.

They can often also be found much cheaper than the more well known 613x series.

I'm surprised at how much better I like the two tone datejust on leather. I don't think I could see myself wearing it on the jubilee to be honest.

Because quartz movements are much cheaper to make in this day and age, and yet mallcore watches with average finishes and plain boring designs cost and arm and a leg.

I took the caseback off of my Explorer II because I wanted to look at the superior Swiss movement and honestly it's just stunning. It's significantly shinier than the pic shows as everything is rhodium plated and it really catches the light. Engine turning is used as the main "fancy" finishing done to the movement, and is most prominent on the balance bridge. It can also just slightly be seen on some lower plates as well. Although the tops of most everything are fairly plain, the sides on just about every part have been polished to a mirror which really make the movement take on a new character as you turn it in your hand. One note about the movement as well is how quietly it ticks along, being barely noticeable if at all unless you put your ear right next to it. The 3185 movement really is a GOAT piece of machinery and I'm surprised how cheap 16570 Explorer IIs are in the market.

Will be buying another Rolex/10

Now screw it back, faggot, it's a proper Swiss chronometer not a Vostok 2416. You could probably tell from the timegrapher signal if it has been opened.

What on earth are you talking about.

He's one of those people who see mechanical watch movements as some mystical black box technology and therefore thinks there will be some negative effect from having the caseback off unless you are in a microprocessor production room facility type clean room.

You have very dainty wrists.

senpai you've just ruined its waterproofing and got a bunch of dust in the case. you should probably get it serviced again.

You don't just open that shit. It might be contaminated now. If it's a Vostok, Orient, 7S26 or similar it's too innacurate for it to have an effect, but if it's a certified chronometer you probably hurt some accuracy right now.

Yo know what also gets the back opened? Getting it serviced.

btw those gaskets are not reusable haha

>I'll take things that have literally never been said about the fat Canadian for $200, Alex.

Possibly stupid question, but does this style of bracelet have a name? I see it every once and a while and I really like it, so it would be helpful to know what it's called (if it's called anything).

The cluelessness is real. You aren't going to get dust in the case just by having it open. Have any of you ever seen a watchmaker actually work on a watch before? Do you think they all have electrostatic clean rooms?

As for the gaskets, as long as they are greasers properly and not pinched in the opening and closing of the case, they can totally be reused. If you are paranoid just get a pressure test done after you are done.

I've opened most of my watches many times in fine tuning their regulation and have never had an issue. I just buy spare gaskets in case pinch one and have a silicone gasket greaser. It's not rocket surgery.

Thanks lads. Some really nice pieces in that 701x range.. Damn. I wish I could just splurge and pick a few different models up.

Found a video by Spencer showing a 7018 like pic related, what a beauty

When did you pick this up? Always good to see new purchases

senpai, i am in watchmaking school, most of my teachers do rolex.
if they are any good they work on thourougly cleaned workbenches in a clean, dust free workshop.
like it or not you are getting dust in your watch, (is it on a carpet in that pic??) probably not nearly enough to have any effect on the movement but still i wouldnt want it in my watch. Especially with a rolex i do not see the point of opening the caseback just to see the movement.

also, Rolex guidelines state that whenever the caseback is opened they replace the caseback gasket and that with every service they replace all gaskets. i would replace it desu.

It was my dad's, I just finally decided to get it serviced after seeing some pictures of two tone datejusts on leather and realizing I liked it about 10,000 times more than the two tone jubilee.

The 3135 of a great movement too. It had been sitting for 5 years since last being worn, I wound it, and it immediately had ~290 degrees of amplitude and ran between -3 and +3 in 6 positions. After 5 years. Madness.

You sound really paranoid. It was on my kitchen table on a little padded thing and I didn't breath on it or otherwise expose it to conditions where dust is going to be blown/fall on it. I ogled it, took a photo, and carefully placed the caseback back on and tightened it down with a tool to where it was before. It's fine.

There is exactly a zero percent change I'm taking it for a service especially because I've seen my watchmakers workplace and he doesn't have some positive airflow, hypo-particulate environment and he specializes in JLC, Rolex, and Patek.

I'm not that poster, I am only commenting because I regulate my own watches and am used to opening and closing them to do so.

Obviously you should be using a clean, neat workspace, and I also always wear a hat when working on an open watch. As long as it's a reasonably clean and dust free room and you take reasonable care it is fine. Even watchmakers don't have or use electrostatic clean rooms.

As for Rolex's guidelines there are good reasons for them. Normally the time between caseback openings is long enough that it makes sense to not risk the gasket having hardened due to age or been pinched in opening or closing the caseback. And actually, if it had been a while since he last had it serviced I'd agree that changing the caseback gasket would be sensible.

However, if you inspect the gasket and it is in good condition, not stretched and remains pliable it will 99.99% work just fine as long as it's greased.

I am thinking of ordering a amphibia with a custom bezel pre-installed. Is 110usd too expensive?

What bezel should I get? Dark blue (pic related)? Black?

but his workbench is clean, right?

fair enough, check the gasket thouroughly for cracks or tears though.

all im saying is, it would be shame to get moisture damage in your rolex

>but his workbench is clean, right?

Well it doesn't look particularly dirty but he has watches and shit scattered everywhere on his clustered desk and it's in a room where he has approximately 100 clocks either on the walls or lying about.

It's about the opposite of some white, laboratory watchmaker's shop that you would imagine.

>watch tread
>post's a extremely unrespected watch youtube reviewer
>R u retarded kid

>not understanding sarcasm
>R u retarded kid

I just found out that picrelated exists. Is there anything out there at similar tier of ultra-minimalism, but at least twice cheaper? I'm poor.

Type "minimalist watch black" on aliexpress

noooooooooooooooo, I am poor, but somehow I don't want a 5$ aliexpress watch. I've had one, that was more than enough. And I honestly doubt those 20$ or 50$ ones there are any better.

theyre the same quality

Same to what? 5$ aliexpres to 50$ aliexpress? I'm inclined to agree.

Anyhow, fuck aliexpress. What's a decent sub-100EUR minimalistic watch? Does it exist?

They're all the same $2 miyota quartz movement in a $2 chinese case

$5 aliexpress, $50 aliexpress, or your retarded $200 fashion watch

Same shit

Orient Bambino is a decent option.

Otherwise search for a new Seiko 5 you like.

It isn't ;_;
I can't buy one today

The greatest achievement in the history of watchmaking is undoubtedly the Swiss lever escapement, which transformed wristwatches from expensive and unreliable curiosities into practical and reliable tools. The development of quartz was merely a minor and incremental improvement.

>Is 110usd too expensive?

It's a fair price for the original watch, shipping from russia to the modder, bezel parts, and installation labor. Only you can answer whether it's too expensive for you.

The hair puller

>They're all the same $2 miyota quartz movement in a $2 chinese case
>$5 aliexpress, $50 aliexpress, or your retarded $200 fashion watch
Thanks for the quality information.

>Orient Bambino
>minimalistic
well it kinda is, in a classic sense, but nowhere near the kind of looks I posted
>sub-100EUR
it isn't

>Seiko 5
which one?
SNK809 has a beautiful body to my taste, hands are no-nonsense, the dial could be more simplistic, but I do like that font, reminds me of Bauhaus or something

> when people say orient bambino are $200

Where the fuck are you buying these?

TGV featured the bambino as best dress watch under $150

If I go on amazon they're $300+

>well it kinda is, in a classic sense, but nowhere near the kind of looks I posted

Going any more minimal than a Bambino betrays a certain tone-deafness on your part. The watch you posted is really extreme in its design and will stand out much more, looking very strange compared to a normal classic design.

>tfw want a good non ETA mechanical chronograph
>don't want to spend $5000

>when people say orient bambino are $200
>Where the fuck are you buying these?

They are 140~165$ shipped on eBay, and i'm talking about the Gen2 with the hacking and handwinding.

You could go the vintage route, or get one of the 8R28 powered Seiko Brightz chronographs.

>Thanks for the quality information.
You're welcome

S e a g u l l

Get an 8r seiko chrono, I love my SARK005. You can find the older 6s ones used in the same price range too.

Fuck it, I'm getting rid of all my shitters except:
>Seiko SKX007 + Super Jubilee bracelet
>Orient Bambino
Any other crap is pointless rn.

/wt/, I will be back in a few years when I finally start buying non-shitter watches.

>/wt/, I will be back in a few years when I finally start buying non-shitter watches.
What will you get

>tone-deafness
>really extreme in its design
>calling a watch which isn't even neon pink this
I can't care less how extreme or anything this cute black thing is from a normie watch connoisseur's viewpoint. I'm not a lawyer and I didn't come here for advice how to develop a "good" taste, I posted a pic of what I find truly beautiful and asked for advice how to find something in similar looks, just cheaper.
Gah, /wt/ must be the most conformistic place on all Sup Forums.

A rollie day-date or a datejust 6694.

I'm talking about out in the world with normal people. You are going to look weird.

Now where do I look for some guide into which sub-100EUR watches come with better movements than 2$ chink ones?

Seiko 5 series.

Thankfully I don't have to deal with such extremely "normal" people where whichever watch would matter at all, and even if I would, the watch would be the very last thing that could make me look more weird or more "normal". Every now and then I see people on /tpg/ saying that someone with a gaming laptop or certain anime stickers on his laptop or this or that would look cringy in "normal" public and I can't stop wondering how that would work in real life (because the only case what I can imagine where a laptop would look odd would be if it were an obvious 90s brick or smeared with shit all over, etc.), but you guys are way worse.

Which one? Or are they all the same tier mechanically?

Hey ben jij niet diegene die bij de vakschool schoonhoven leert? Hoe bevalt het sinds de verbouwing?

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>When you report the fuckheads spruking their shitter watch scams

It was a joke lad, keep getting spammed with targeted ads for it. The reaction video is honestly one of the least convincing things I've ever seen in my life to the point where it's hilarious.

>ywn fuck countless women on your billion dollar yacht in Monaco wearing pic related

Plz no bully I also have a 800€ seiko sportura and a 5€ rolex somewhere

...

Removed the bezel of my Amphibirskie, now it looks like a Slav Rolex explorer. I'm digging it.

Rate my Fortis B42 Auto

I said no bullying

My next watch is a red tudor black bay or a green rolex or maybe a blue one

Or this 40k€ dragon watch when my parents die and leave me money for the thug life

couldn't help it m8.
get a blue dial milgauss or Don't buy this ugly dragon

I wouldn't pay 40 € let alone 40k.

Are there any nice divers in 38mm which have Pepsi bezel? Did sheik on make any 38mm divers?

why do you keep listing the prices

Prices are important, especially for Seiko.

Also said 5€ rolex because its a chinese watch I got at age 15 and broke on the way home from the store

And 40k€ Jaque Droz to give the watch some context.

Look at how deep the detail on that dial is, it must look amazing in real life and even on video.

Sounds like it would get boring real quick desu.

Look, now that's something actually
>extreme in its design

Like I said: tone-deaf. You just don't seem to grasp how bizarre and conspicuous it is to have a blank black watch.

Nice Orient Bambino homage m8.

SKX015

>tfw when u dox yourself

het nieuwe gebouw is mooi, nieuwe werkbanken en draaibanken zijn fijn.

THICC

The dragon watch probably does not pop out like a retard tier Invicta, its probably closer to earth tones and very flat on the wrist, unless you show it to someone, then its awesome detail. My pic sucks, find better ones.

> seiko and miyota are producing non hacking movements in 2017

this is a very common and false mindset we see in people seeking "minimal" watches. they have this misguided idea that minimal = clean, modern, subdued, simple, etc. but this is very wrong. they forget that watches are worn on the body and people around them have all seen watches before. minimal design reads as attention-craving, hatred of beauty/humanity, glaring, etc.

if you want something that's really attention-getting, by all means, get some weird angular minimalist disc and flash your postmodernist power level and how much you hate things that are natural and simple. if you want to look simple and clean and blend in, get something like a timex weekender.

erasing details from the design makes it stand out MORE. watch design doesn't exist in a vacuum, it is part of human culture and you can't understand the design without reading in the entire context of the watches people have seen all their lives.

Yes, hell, I truly fucking don't. Probably like tenfold as bizarre as walking with an axe in your back.

I want this except with the function to sync with all blutooth devices

So just like patek?

What happened to the /sinkdiving/ meme?

Essentially zero companies that actually make watches as their primary business will make a design like that because its close to useless for actually telling the time.

As a result, more or less 100% of watches styled like that picture will be AliExpress trash with various brand names put on it and sold for some ridiculous mark-up. If that style is what you want, feel free to buy the same sort of dogshit $2 quartz in a chinkshit case for $5, $50, or $500.

Is there any way to make all watch makers quartz and use all money on the brand and superior finishing?

Can we make mechanicals a joke

No, better to just kill yourself.

You have that backwards. It's precisely because quartz movements are so cheap that it tends to destroy the justification for spending any money on the case/dial/hands/bracelet manufacturing and finishing.

It will never die

even more backwards than that.

the fact that cheap quartz modules are ubiquitous now and are slightly superior in one technical measurement doesn't mean that mechanical watches should be phased out. in fact it means quite the opposite: because dead-accurate clocks are all around us at all times of the day, the timekeeping accuracy of the wristwatch is now mostly irrelevant once it passes the point of practicality. all mechanical movements made in the past 100 years possess sufficient accuracy for practical use. there is no meaningful difference between a vostok 2416 and a ronda quartz movement. neither of them comes within ten orders of magnitude of the accuracy of a cesium fountain, and all of our phones, computers, and so forth are all set by NTP to the cesium fountain time standards of the world.

yes, quartz was briefly an improvement over mechanical. but that reign barely lasted 20 years. quartz is obsolete as a precision timekeeping technology, replaced by networked systems calibrated to technology that is so accurate it exceeds the precision of the solar system itself.

now, what is a wristwatch in the 21st century? because it can never again be seen as a time standard, it can only be a personal accessory that serves as a celebration of tradition, craftsmanship, and design. quartz, then, fails quite badly at the primary application of a wristwatch, being a cheap compromise technology that discards the interesting value of the machine but that can only muster a marginally better showing on the accuracy benchmark. some quartz designs will always have appeal, like the brutal digital designs descended from the first wave of pulsars and seikos. but the notion of precision timekeeping in watchmaking is itself now wholly obsolete, and quartz's star has definitively, unambigiously, and indisputably fallen.

the time of quartz wristwatches has come to an end.

Shitters when milgauss exists

Thats too much text for my troll post brah.

Breitling has some nice quartz watches, shit with magnetic switches you can operate under water, temperature controlled fämälämäzoids.

Like I said, in my environment a fine taste in watches couldn't matter less. I could wear something as obnoxious as picrelated if I liked, and no one would give a flying fuck.

>modern, subdued
I don't give a shit about any hip buzzwords, it's just my personal aesthetic preference of things that look simple, even to the point of brutal simple.

>timex weekender
But hey, this thing is cute. I actually quite dig this sort of design. Someone here mentioned Seiko 5, and I like the body of the SNK80*, not so much the dial (what's even the point of having huge second digits on the outer part?). Similarly, I like the body of the weekender, and I like the font, but, if you mean the single dial version - what sort of absolute retards are the audience of watches with 13-24 on their dials? It must be those people who also use a calculator to 2 + 5. I would be offending myself wearing anything that identifies me with those people. I would appreciate if you could recommend me something similar with 12hr digits only, or no digits at all. Black on white, white on black, doesn't matter.

Anyhow, thanks for the opinion, at least you explained your point instead of going hurr tone deafness durr bizarre like that other user.