/pcbg/ - PC Building General

/pcbg/: Post your component list; rate other anons'; ask questions in general.

State the PURPOSE of your PC & BUDGET. State COUNTRY if not USA.
List GAMES/SOFTWARE you use often. List resolution & hz if gaming.
Seeking build improvements? Clarify goal: lower price or improved specs?
ctrl+f to see if your question was answered already

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons & compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com

>Information on how to assemble a PC, select components & more. (somewhat outdated)
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC

Currently worthwhile CPUs:
>G4560 for budget builds (i3 are only worthwhile for dwarf fortress & single-purpose emulator boxes
>i5 aren't worthwhile. Get Ryzen 5, drop down to G4560, or up to R7/i7
>R5 1400 is not worthwhile unless discounted
>i7-7700k is good but pricey. Don't forget the delid. If over budget, an R5 is probably as good or better for you
>R7/Xeon for compute/multitask/mixed use

Currently worthwhile GFX cards:
>RX570, RX480(if cheap & not blower), RX580, 1080, 1080TI
>RX570 is usually all you need for 1080p@60hz
>RX550 & RX560 are worth considering if you just need 6 monitor support for cheap and/or play low end shit
>1060 & 1070 are worth considering if you already have a Gsync monitor. 1050Ti is for mITX builds or if on sale at ~$100
>Nvidia GPU + Ryzen has issues in many games atm
>Budget builds: consider integrated graphics over a card weaker than RX560
>May for Vega

General:
>No brand/model loyalty. Parametric filters on pcpartpicker can help
>Consider larger SSD-only for what you budget SSD+HDD combined. Add HDD later once needed
>NVMe aren't for faster OS boot. They're primarily for productivity as a scratch disk
>mATX can often save cost as the board+case is usually cheaper
>1 DIMM is slower than 2 DIMMs, you dumbfucks.

If you see any other build advice or part list threads, direct them here with and report.

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/6LRyTH
geizhals.de/be-quiet-pure-power-9-cm-400w-atx-2-4-bn266-a1407719.html?hloc=at&hloc=de
uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/N4psCy
es.pcpartpicker.com/list/tNVQ9W
pcpartpicker.com/list/B2RxQV
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132855
pcpartpicker.com/list/H6gcvV
pcpartpicker.com/list/ZNGDNN
valid.x86.fr/6fw8x3
valid.x86.fr/nmikb9
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313807&utm_medium=Email&utm_source=IGNEFL042817C&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL042817C-_-EMC-042817-Latest-_-DesktopMemory-_-20313807-S1A5C&ignorebbr=1
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

Which rx 570 card is the best one to get?

user i know you wanted to fix the op real bad but that didn't mean recycling the picture too!

I bought arctic silver thermal paste at radio shack, should I bother using it, or buy something else?

>want to stay below 800 euro
>gaming (non aaa titles)
>browsing
>programming
>dual booting linux & wangblows (for gaems)

pcpartpicker.com/list/6LRyTH

GPU will be the rx 560 because I mostly play those "e sport" games, and the psu will be

geizhals.de/be-quiet-pure-power-9-cm-400w-atx-2-4-bn266-a1407719.html?hloc=at&hloc=de

(pcpartpicker doesn't know that one). Swapped the msi motherboard for the asrock one, is that a better choice?

Fuck, this dragon is hot

Red Devil if it fits in your case.

Picture is good.

Artic Silver 5? No it's garbage.
Noctua and Cryorig coolers come with far better paste.

PSU? Looks fine otherwise.

...

It's sold out on Newegg. How are the Gigabyte and MSI cards?

That's not artic silver, you autist.
Go look at reviews.

IMO get the Seasonic S12II-520W Bronze instead of the BQ 400W Silver.

Seasonic has the best overall quality PSUs on the market, and having 520W means you'll have a solid supply if you want to go up to much stronger GPU in a couple years (which will have no problems pairing with the R5-1600).

Consider if getting faster ram will fit your budget - there's generally a decent performance boost going up from 2133/2400. I'd say 3000mhz is about the sweet spot considering the current limitations with AM4 - most people can't boot with ram set faster than 2933mhz, and the relative performance increase above that is much more marginal anyway.

The rest fine. ASRock Pro4 is a good choice.

hey don't be mean

Gigabyte are loud and hot.
The high end MSI models are good like the Gaming X but not the low end.

>PSU? Looks fine otherwise.
see

geizhals.de/be-quiet-pure-power-9-cm-400w-atx-2-4-bn266-a1407719.html?hloc=at&hloc=de

pcpartpicker doesn't know that psu for some reason.

the Seasonics12II bronze is not a semi modular one though. Some anons here recommended me to get a semimodular one.
I considered upping on ram but it'll be too expensive for me in the end, what I'm about to build is an insane upgrade compared to my 7y/o prebuilt pc anyway. 2400mhz will be fine.

I'm about to start buying the parts, is there anything I could do to improve this while not going over £800? I'm only planning on using it for gaming/browsing/movies.

uk.pcpartpicker.com/list/N4psCy

AMD Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz 6-Core Processor

MSI B350 TOMAHAWK ATX AM4 Motherboard

Corsair Vengeance LPX 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-2400 Memory

Seagate Barracuda 2TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive

RX 580

Fractal Design Core 2300 ATX Mid Tower Case

EVGA 500W 80+ Certified ATX Power Supply

Enter it manually with custom part.

I'd get the B350M Pro4, Gaming 3, or Prime unless you're certain you need ATX for some unknown and obscure reason.
Is this for 1440p? RX580 is overkill for 1080p.

I'd generally prefer getting just a smaller SSD like 500GB over a HDD. Maybe use the savings dropping down to an RX570 to do that.

>RX580 is overkill for 1080p.
no it's not

What do you think of carbide 540 case?

The only other option besides the MSI Gaming X is the ASUS Strix Gaming OC (just 2 fans instead of the usual 3 though)

Unless you really want to do downsampling, which isn't a terrible idea, it's less good performance for the price.
It's like 3-12% better at 1080p generally for 35-50% more money.

It'll run at a bit higher framerates, and a bit higher settings, but not worth it imo.
But I guess if you really want to downsample 1440p to 1080p for better image quality despite being limited by a crap monitor, that's not a terrible idea and can make it more worth the money.

The RX480 ROG Strix was good.. don't know about the RX570. Look at reviews of the two and decide on that.

Show me porn of that dragon.

looking to upgrade cpu and mobo. i know 1151 is on it's way out, but if i can get a good deal on a decent mobo and 7700k, would it be worth picking up now or waiting for new release

Should I get a CPU cooler for a R5 1600?

Yes you retard. All cpu's need a cooler no matter what

Not unless you expect to crank it up to 4.0 GHz out of the box. The Spire cools up to ~3.8 well enough.

es.pcpartpicker.com/list/tNVQ9W

How's this for a build?
I wanted a Taichi but it costs 270€ in Europe, I have no idea why. Even the Asus Crosshair VI Hero is cheaper.

I don't intend to overclock

I haven't seen very good deals, really.
You tend to need at least a $140 board for decent overclocks. Sometimes they're as cheap as $115. Haven't seen any cheaper that aren't only suitable for running the faster RAM and stock clocks as you tend to need 6 real VRM phases just for stock speeds.
Then you need to delid. Even if you do that yourself, and it's only a few bucks for adhesive, it voids the warranty. If you mess it up and kill it, you can't get a refund, so that sure as shit isn't a "good deal". So a delidding service is the best way to go, which puts you at
>$340+$50 for delid for a 4.9GHz 7700k at silicon lottery
You could try your luck.. hope you aren't one of those people that idle at 45-55C and can barely even run it at stock speeds without a delid, then send it off for a delid or try it yourself. Just... that no warranty garbage is stupid and innately poor value.

It's not a bad CPU. Just not good value.

Up to you. Why not use the stock one to start with and then decide if you want to change it?

doesn't matter. heat will kill it. better to spend $25 to prolong your cpu indefinitely

You don't need one, the R5 1600 comes with one and it can handle decent oc (3.6~ 3.7GHz) pretty easily, even more if don't use it at full load
You can get one if you want to be able to safely OC up to 3.9GHz ~ 4GHz easily, but it's completely uneeded if you don't oc

What's a good price for a 1070 at the moment? I feel like that card would hit the sweet spot for me but I don't want to spend too much to get one.

>don't need one
>get cpu
If I do, which one should I get for this build? pcpartpicker.com/list/B2RxQV

Should I get a cooler, or not? I don't know who to believe.

That's the problem, I can't find any reviews for either. I've read good reviews about the Gigabyte Aorus though, which is why I was looking at it. But apparently the Gigabyte cards aren't good so...

The 1600 comes with a bundled cooler, you don't need to buy another one. The other user is either fucking retarded thinking you're going to use the CPU without a cooler at all or just trolling.

Someone posted this on the other thread and really got me thinking about upgrading my system. With promo and rebate it's only $115

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813132855

also jet.com has a promo where you can get 15% off your order up to $30, so $310 for the i7.

Is delid really necessary?

you don't need one if you don't overclock, since the 1600 comes with a stock cooler that's pretty good.

if you want to oc then cryorig h7 or be quiet! pure rock is a good choice.

thanks, i'll ignore the other retard giving bad advice.

Pcpartpicker's projected power draw for a 1600/480 is 310W. If I were to get a 520W PSU, will I be able to OC the CPU without worrying about the PSU not having sufficient wattage?

Ok anons, I have my pcbuild 90% planned and all I need is a GPU recommendation. I am building a micro atx ryzen desktop for travel and I dont know what Graphics Card would be best for the system.

I am concerned about heat management and dissipation because the case I have chosen is fairly small. Would a blower style card be better than fan style for my purposes? And should I lean towards a 470 or a 1060?

R7 1700, OC'd to 3.7GHz on all EIGHT cores at 1.23v, stress test
It stabilizes at 70°C
This was right after another stress test btw, hence the high starting clocks

Which case?

>hence the high starting clocks
temperatures*

470 lmao

Yup, take into account that the 1600 and 1700 are 65W TDP parts bundled with 95W-rated coolers that can cool up to ~3.7 overclocks so taking those chips up to their absolute highest means they'll draw something like 130W tops so that's an extra 65W to sum. You'll be fine.

pcpartpicker.com/list/H6gcvV
R8 and h8. Keep in mind I'm getting the i7 for 300 and saving 30 on the mb thanks to microcenter. Getting a ryzen 7 would come out to around the same price so I just went with the i7.

Not trying to convince nor cricticize your choice, but if i were in your situation i'd go with a ryzen anyway purely because not having to buy yet another mobo when i want to upgrade

I had an IRL friend review my planned build and commented that a z270 motherboard is kinda odd for just a single GTX1070, why is that?

Personally I mostly game and I would still get an R7 over the i7 if prices are equal considering the improvements over day1 benchmarks. Even if the i7 gets higher FPS on average, it is not in all cases and it is usually by an amount that will not be noticeable outside of benchmarks unless you spend the whole time staring at the FPS counter, and the extra cores/threads will give better headroom overall for multitasking and likely for all tasks going forward.

But really, your build will still be top of the line for a while to come.

He's dumb. You pick a mobo depending on your CPU not your GPU. Ignore him.

he's probably thinking about SLI (multiple graphics cards), which is supported only by z boards afaik.

if you have 'k' version of cpu you should go with z270 to benefit from overclocking. otherwise go b250. also post build

Because he is dumb. If you are buying a K-cpu then you should be getting a Z-series to go with it.

SLI is far from the only benefit to Z270.

Yeah like I said, sometimes you can get decent enough boards for $115. That's an example. That seems to be the lowest decent boards have been doing.

>Is delid really necessary?
Depends on luck. But most of us pretty much totally stopped recommending them because we'd recommend them, then 2-3 posts a day are people with their 7700k build getting 45-55C idle temps. Even 43C with $120+ AIO for one. That's really bad and it just seems to be getting more and more common.

The problem is, and some Skylakes have this as well, that depending on where/when they were manufactured there are some that had too much adhesive which, in addition to the shitty TIM, has too much of a gap between the die and the IHS which turns them into 200w TDP+ CPUs.

I just don't really get why you wouldn't go a 1600 or 1600X. It's 80-90% as good per core on average, 50% more cores, SMT is better than HT, and better at a lot of other instructions too.
Yeah the per core is a bit behind in gaming, but it's the AM4 platform so you just upgrade to a 3600X or 4600X in 2 or 3 years instead of being stuck with an overpriced Z270 board that you can't upgrade on or buying a new one.

pcpartpicker.com/list/ZNGDNN

Unless he's saying I should get a z170, does that still OC well?

For non-overclockers between those, which one should I pick:
i7 6700,6700k, 7700, 7700k?

What's the best 1080p 60hz IPS BUDGET monitor I can get? Preferably 23-24".

and also with thin to nearly non-existent bezels

7700k would technically get you the best performance because it's already at very high clocks.

Guys im doing video editing and rendering with some gaming on the side.

what cpu should I be looking at?

In case i get the 7700, would the intel cooler box handle it?

ryzen

>video editing and rendering
R Y Z E N
Y
Z
E
N

1700 if you don't mind to OC manually or 1700X if you want OOTB overclock. 1800X is currently not worth it unless heavily discounted.

The 7700 cooler would handle the 7700 yes (though it would be quite hot & quite noisy), but the 7700k is clocked quite a lot higher. 3.6 base vs 4.2 base.
The 7700k is good because it's clocked very high, but the 7700 isn't clocked as high.

R5 1600 / R7 1700

Honestly, swap out the i5 for a 1600 or a 1500X. i5s aren't worth it anymore.

You know Microcenter has deep discounts on the Ryzen parts too, right?
That you're getting the 7700 cheaper at Microcenter is irrelevant there.

But if you insist on going with a 7700k, and overpaying for a GSync monitor that could become irrelevant soon instead of waiting a month to check Vega, the build is solid.

Will overclocking improve for ryzen? I don't think I've seen anything higher than 4.1 and that's with ~1.45 voltages. If 4.0 is the best I can hope for, then I'll get a cheaper cooler. Also, how much worse is 1600x for gaming compared to ryzen 7? If I can save $100 for similar performance than I'll do that.

A few months ago I had to decide between the 7700 and the 7700K and although I don't OC I decided to go with the K because constant 4400mhz all 4 cores and more than anything the intel cooler is SHIT. I read that the 7700's temps would get pretty high with it, so I didn't see a reason to get the 7700 if its cooler was shit since it was the main appeal point (= less expensive).

Get the 7700K or go Ryzen.

valid.x86.fr/6fw8x3

amd and amd or intel and nvidia for faster with linux with the iommu pci and windows

Not really, Ryzen's voltage wall is a combination of architecture flaws & not particularly great yields
Maybe we're going to get slightly better oc through bios updates like we've seen before, but nothing really big. Zen+ will most likely improve on that, but that's next year.

>VCore at more than 1.4V
wew lad

If you're not oveclocking, the 1600X is the only CPU you should consider. Or 1800X if you don't care about money.
Their stock clocks are very high plus more cores and not housefires. 7700k gains more from overclocking than the 1600X does and literally the only point of going it is to void your warranty on delid and to clock it near 5GHz.

As long as it's not a mITX case and you don't get super unlucky and it needs delidded, yeah the stock 7700 cooler handles it decently.
A Cryorig C7 or something like that is much better, though.

Doesn't matter how well it OCs.
A 5GHz overclocked 7600k is on average slower than a stock 7700 or a 4GHz overclocked 1500X in most newer games.
Yeah it's fast in some older games, but 300 fps in Lost Planet is meaningless. The 4c/8t CPUs are faster in the more demanding, newer games where it matters.
You have to be dumb to buy i5s. It's a scam.

lol no. You have no clue what you're talking about.
The voltage wall is because they went with the LPP process which is better for servers and notebooks.
They may switch to LPU next year which is less compromising.
For Zen3, they're switching to IBM's 7nm which will certainly clock 10% higher.

valid.x86.fr/nmikb9

JUST

What's a good price for a 1070? I feel like that card would hit the sweet spot for me but I don't want to spend too much to get one.

hey don't be mean

IOMMU on Ryzen is a bit iffy at the moment. Even using an ACS patch the host is limited to a PCI-e 2.0 4x GPU. Nvidia cards also seem to require some tinkering to get working properly.

I'd wait for Ryzen to mature a bit and see if the IOMMU is fixed in UEFI or alternatively to go with Intel + AMD if you need to build now. Perhaps with an nVidia GPU for the host.

>Queen
Was a great read up till the midpoint, then it became utter garbage. The ending was rushed and ass as well.

$300.
$325 isn't bad but it's $40-$400 more for fucking Gsync so

sry

IOMMU is purely a motherboard vendor issue.

Sorry to disappoint you but I haven't read it.

Looking at an average of current benchmarks, I would say the 1600x and 1800x are basically within a margin of error of each other for performance in 90% of cases and usually are 5-10% better than the 1600 and 1700 at stock speeds. If you include overclocking, the 1600, 1600x, 1700 and 1800x are become so close when gaming that the 1600 becomes the unquestionable favorite for price/performance.

When comparing the Ryzen vs. i7, Ryzen is faster clock-for-clock, but the i7 is able to hit much higher clocks allow it to take more of a lead. Ryzen at 4ghz is typically a bit faster than stock i7 at 4.2ghz, but i7 at 5ghz is then a bit faster than Ryzen at 4hz for gaming.

I doubt OC with Ryzen is really going improve on this iteration of CPUs. The best that everyone is hoping for is better memory support for 3200mhz+ and better software optimization.

I'm actually relieved to hear that you haven't.

Don't worry so much about clock speeds. 4GHz at that high of IPC is already plenty.

The big benefit with Ryzen is how smooth it is, even if it wasn't also better value.

Silverstone Sugo SG02.

Well I feel like switching to a ryzen after hearing a reason that actually benefits my games and not a reason that it's not inshill, what motherboard would I need to OC a Ryzen 5 1600x?

You think even the two PCI-e 3.0 X8 slots provided by the CPU itself can be divided properly in the future?

If I switch from an i5 to an AMD, do I have to reformat my HDD? I have 2 HDD's and an SSD. would they all need reformatted?

Most B350 ones are good enough, but be aware of the MSI ones except the Tomahawk (and I think Mortar as well, it's the same but mATX) because they seem to have sub-par VRM arrangements.

Go X370 only if you want to reliably go for crazy OCs (>4.0), need to SLI/CF or absolutely require the extra I/O over B350. Otherwise B350 is perfectly fine.

>Its a seat the CPU day

A cheap $70-$95 board is generally fine.
B350M gaming 3, prime, or pro4 are the top 3.
But the stock clocks on the 1600X are good. You wouldn't need to OC.
If you want to save more money, the 1600 comes with a decent cooler good for 3.7-3.8GHz for most people, but you'd need a better one anyway to hit 4.0-4.1.

And you need to get decent RAM. 3000-3200 is good. There's 2x8GB 3000 on sale for $100 right now
>newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820313807&utm_medium=Email&utm_source=IGNEFL042817C&cm_mmc=EMC-IGNEFL042817C-_-EMC-042817-Latest-_-DesktopMemory-_-20313807-S1A5C&ignorebbr=1

Yeah, the MSI GAMING PRO is pretty garbage.

You don't HAVE to but you should do a new install of windows. You should be running on Linux 4.10 kernel or later or Windows10, really.

I don't see why not. Why would the OS care whether the PCIe lanes are from a Chipset or on the CPU itself? I could be ignorant, here.

Nope, W10 should survive the change and data HDDs won't even notice or care, but plan for complete disaster and have backups ready and a OS image on USB/DVD just in case.

>what motherboard would I need to OC a Ryzen 5 1600x?
Among the B350 ones, the Asus Prime B350M-a is pretty nice, i can oc both my R7 1700 to 3.7~3.8GHz and my R9 280 to 1050/1500mhz at the same time on it
No idea about the other ones.

> I have 2 HDD's and an SSD. would they all need reformatted?
No

>If I switch from an i5 to an AMD, do I have to reformat my HDD?
When getting a new motherboard or cpu, regardless of brands, it is always recommended to do a clean windows install because the current one will be using all the software made for the old motherboard and cpu. So you end up with drivers that will try to behave as if you had that specific hardware, as if you had that specific motherboard, as if you had that specific integrated audio, but the actual audio chipset and motherboard will be massively different from it. So you end up with very unstable windows and worse performances because of unfit software, and also bluescreens.
It's wiser to do a clean windows install.

he'll lose w10 activation. and would work worse, needs clean isntall

to keep activation make MS account and link your w10 to it inside OS in activation section

Purpose : CAD, After Effects (not that much) photoshop, streaming, programming
Games I play : xplane11, spaceengine
I know nothing about PC parts should I go with a ryzen 1600 + gtx1060 ?

>All you need is good ram
I already had 2 of 8GB 3000 planned in that build, but is there any benefit of going 4 4GB?

>but is there any benefit of going 4 4GB?
no, it's actually worse

>he'll lose w10 activation
It depends. If it's a W10 key from the free upgrade offer that's linked to your MS account (it does automatically I think) the activation will persist (mine did) even if it came from W7/W8 OEM. No idea about W10 OEM keys or pirated copies.

Yes.

yes
but do a pcpartpicker because there's much more to pc parts than cpu and gpu

>no, it's actually worse
Actually AMD has always used a significantly different memory controller to Intel that benefits from 4 sticks of single rank, or 2 sticks of double rank.
But it's more difficult to run 4 sticks or DR at higher speed.
With Ryzen that's sketchier since the interconnect between the groups of cores is tied to RAM speed. If the thread scheduler is moving threads around a lot, then faster speed is important If not, the DR is better.
Based on some tests so far, 2666 DR seems to be pretty equal to 2933 or 3200 SR. But it depends on application/game.

Whereas, at least for older Intel CPUs like sandy bridge (i haven't seen 2 DIMM vs 4 DIMMs on newer rereleases), 4 DIMMS would always be slower.

It's hard to identify when memory is double rank, though... Sometimes it'll have "SR" or "DR" in the model name. And I believe 16GB sticks are always DR.

If you need Cuda for those programs, get the 1060 yeah.
If they have OpenCL support or don't have Cuda either, then get the RX570 or RX580.

>got a usb 2.0 extension thing in the mail since my mobo has one only
>decide to do some cable management while I am at it
>turn on pc to see it it works, it does
>cover the sides and such
>boot pc, it wont
>narrow the problem to three things possible things. CPU, CPU cable, or Mobo. Maybe the PSU, but very unlikely based on the symptoms.

Fuck me man. I need to use this shit today for an assignment and now it decides to be fucking retarded. I have no idea which of the three are the problem since it was working literally 10 minutes ago. All I know is that there is a red light next to the CPU port on the Mobo, which according to the manual means CPU isn't ready (even though it was working fine for over a month and 10 minutes ago), and it turns off when I put in the CPU cable in.

But my PC won't turn on either way which is annoying. I tried two CPU cables and both get the same result, so now I am thinking Mobo or CPU (r1700). What the fuck do I do? Is this some glitch i can bypass or did my mobo/cpu just die after being flawless for over a month by pure fucking coincidence?