/pcbg/ - PC Building General

pcbg/: Post your component list; rate other anons'; ask questions in general.

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons & compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com/

THEN state the PURPOSE of your PC & BUDGET. State COUNTRY if not USA.
List GAMES/SOFTWARE you use often. List resolution & hz if gaming.
Seeking build improvements? Clarify goal: lower price or improved specs?
ctrl+f to see if your question was answered already

>How to assemble a PC, select components & more. (somewhat outdated)
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC

CPUs:
>G4560 for budget builds (R5 1500X will keep above 60fps in every game. No i5
>R5 1600 is the best value for higher fps gaming and mixed usage; 1600x if you don't want to OC
>i7-7700k is bad value but good; may have heat issues even at stock clocks
>R7/Xeon for compute/multitask/mixed use. R5 if budget

Graphics:
>G4560 iGPU is fine for LoL, dota2, rocket league, etc
>1050Ti - if on sale for ~$105. RX560 soon & looks good
>RX570 4GB - 1080p@60+hz, running most maxed; older games at 144+hz
>RX580 8GB - 1440p@60+hz, inject SMAA and drop settings for some games
>1060 - Gets outperformed by the RX 580; consider only if AMD is not an option (ie CUDA)
>1070 - not worth the extra cost for Gsync, except in certain cases
>1080 - 1080p@90-144+hz maxed; 1440p at lower hz.
>1080Ti - 1440p@90-144+hz; 4k@60hz in SOME games, more at lower settings
>Freesync2 & Vega soon.

General:
>READ PRODUCT REVIEWS on a retailer page to see if that cheap SSD/PSU or whatever is reliable
>Consider larger SSD-only for what you budget SSD+HDD combined. Add HDD later once needed
>NVMe aren't for faster OS boot. They're primarily for productivity as a scratch disk
>Stop fucking confusing any M.2 drive with NVMe. M.2 is a form factor
>mATX is often cheaper as the board+case is usually less
>1 SR DIMM is slower than 2 DIMMs
>Good air cooler is almost always wiser than an AIO

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/HnDgxY
pcpartpicker.com/b/PK3bt6
amazon.com/LG-32MA68HY-P-32-Inch-Monitor-Display/dp/B01IA9FXAO/
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/rCLmjc
amazon.com/LG-25UM58-P-25-Inch-21-UltraWide/dp/B01BV1XB2K/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494531923&sr=1-5&keywords=lg monitor
amazon.com/Samsung-U28E590D-28-Inch-LED-Lit-Freesync/dp/B00YD3DBOC/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1494532204&sr=1-3&keywords=4k monitor
asus.com/us/Motherboards/PRIME-X370-PRO/HelpDesk_Download/
jet.com/product/ASUS-MX259H-25-inch-Wide-Screen-LED-Monitor-with-built-in-speakers/9cbb6dfaec3b463abc6da023d9195a17
amazon.com/MX259H-25-Inch-1920x1080-ICEpower-Frameless/dp/B00UFCVKI4
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

Is this the best budget setup for casual linux gaming (xonotic, 0ad, minetest) and web browsing?
pcpartpicker.com/list/HnDgxY

not a usual op, but last op, and at request instead of old op used the new op
i dont really fucking care if this is wrong anymore

$615 option
May be better off spending more money for a 500gb+ SSD, or hold off for it for later.

>Upgrade path is to switch out the CPU and mobo, get ryzen 2 with a mobo, and add 8gb ram.
>Then you start to upgrade the graphics card until you come to a point where your CPU is a bottleneck.

>asus prime a320m-k motherboard
That's not am4, so your mobo isn't compatible with your CPU.

>No storage
>No case
>No PSU

>rx 560 for around 130-140 euros
or
>gtx 1050ti for around 140-150 euros

what to pick? I think the rx 560 already comes with zero fan modus in that price range. for the gtx it's around 160 euros.

This is if one already has those things. Besides they can basically be anything and still work fine, especially since there is no overclocking/blinkenlights ricing.

monitor guy here

Is that person still here? I have a 5000pixel (height) image of the chats with support. I want someone to review it as a rough draft.

what happens when moore's law is up?

What's the word on hybrid HDDs?

no is the word youre looking for

don't bother it's bullshit
just get an ssd if you can afford it

It already is. Intel slowed way down with process size shrinking and the 4th *lake is still 14nm.

Doesn't seem like a good choice when you can get a 120gb ssd + 1tb hdd under $100.

Am I going to have bottleneck issues if the only thing I want to do is upgrade the GPU to a 1070 or so? I think I've waited long enough (over 5 years now) as to where the current GPUs are not just a marginal upgrade, and the prices are more enticing than ever.

My 480 and 2600k are water cooled, so I'm OCing them as much as I can while maintaining stability. I think I got unlucky on the cpu though, as I've seen heard others easily push their i7s to 4.5ghz or higher on water, but I hit the limit there even while increasing the voltage.

Essentially, not sure if I can just get away with changing the GPU or if I should just scrap it all and go with a new build, this time only putting the CPU underwater instead of the mess of a full CPU/GPU loop.

I don't think there's anything wrong with them.
They're the exact same price, sometimes cheaper, than non-hybrid hdds.

If you have save files on the hybrid it'll probably start storing your save files to the flash nand.

Well I'm glad I asked first.
I'd get an SSD but I don't like the idea of choosing what will get better performances over something else.

I want to dualboot Win7 and Win10, I'm not sure if filling up an SSD with just fucking Windows is all that worth it, when I never turn off my computer anyway.

Also if any of you happens to know any ways to install Win10 in such a way that it can only "see" the partition it's installed it and never even notice there's more storage available on the system, I'll be even more grateful.

>I'm not sure if filling up an SSD with just fucking Windows is all that worth it

yes it's worth it. one of the best upgrades you can make

You won't bottleneck too hard, but the next time you upgrade it'll be the CPU.
And yeah, seem like a bad silicone then, my 2500K is 4.4ghz with 1.312v at max.

It's kind of a waste to stick around with a bad GPU for that long though... That pretty much nullifies the money spent on the CPU, you never got to use it capabilities, it just stayed bottlenecked by the GPU.

So basically ACER completely fucked me over in every way possible. It's just a dead pixel but the worst part is the fucking shit support.

They tell me it will be fixed, they know it is a single dead pixel. I tell them I sending it back in exact original package.

They then take the product. Destroy the packaging so I can't send it to newegg. Send it back a week later saying nothing is wrong with it and that a dead pixel is not something they repair or care about. DESPITE the fuckers telling me to send it in because of the dead pixel.


They then tell me to take pictures of a 1080p screen with a shitty camera to prove it's a dead pixel. They then get pictures of the dead pixel and say I am lying because the shape (because it;'s a shitty camera).

what in the fuck is wrong with aCER

noob question

does the the pc case usually come with the mounting screws for drives?

I have $400 to spend, what should i upgrade. I'm thinking just my monitor for now or maybe a new case until i have more cash to upgrade internals all at once

Current specs:
i5 2320
gtx 660
Samsung 23" SA350 monitor
OEM 8gb ram from 6 year old gateway desktop

404 fix your link

need more thots

XFX AMD RADEON RX 480 8GB GTR XXX or

GIGABYTE AMD RADEON RX 580 AORUS TXR, 8GB?


price is almost identical

yes. always

I was a stupid kid back then, jumping into watercooling for an incredibly retarded reason. I don't regret it though, since it was thrilling building a working loop.

Would I have any issues if I splurged and went for a 1080 with this CPU?

I figure that if all I upgrade is the GPU, I don't mind dumping the extra cash if it doesn't bottle neck too hard. I'll sell my watercooling kit (360 Rad, cpu block, fittings, drive bay pump / reservoir) and buy a Corsair since I still like the idea of water cooling, but I don't have the time to maintain the loop.

You should have read the pixel policy. A single dead pixel isn't ground for repair or replacement, unless it has a delux pixel policy.
Monitors are the scariest parts to buy, because of the dead pixel issues.

>dead pixel issues.
Fuck. How frequent is this? What type of monitors have more dead pixel issues?

Was literally about to start choosing one

so ive been using a shitty dell inspiron for the past 5 years and im sick of it

would this be a good first build?

pcpartpicker.com/b/PK3bt6

id like to not spend more then a 1200 dollars on it (not including monitor or anything)
i live in the us and would like to play overwatch and bf1 and maybe some light video editing


id like to us this monitor with it

amazon.com/LG-32MA68HY-P-32-Inch-Monitor-Display/dp/B01IA9FXAO/

am i retarded for wanting this?

Is this for 60fps gaming? I think it would be able to keep up with 60fps, although it's not that highly clocked.
You might dip below 60fps sometimes, but I don't think it'll be that bad of a bottleneck.

Just look for 2600k benchmarks, like "2600k vs 7700k".

This is my build

au.pcpartpicker.com/list/rCLmjc

I'd like some input on it thanks.

Concern one is the ram clearance for the cooler, i can get 2400mhz ram cheaper ($150 that doesnt have a heatspreader on it, though I guess I can remove it on the 3200? Or would it get too hot?

Also ryzen cpus seem pretty bad for emulation but at the same time better for a lot of other stuff. Why is that? I plan to emulate a bit and want to be able to use cemu when its better optimised for lower end gpus like the 480.

Then another thing on the gpu. From my understanding the fans will turn off when its not gaming right? I read that was a feature on the gaming x gpus.

Thrn with the gpus theres also the 3gb 1060 and the 4gb 580 for the same price, am I falling for a trap by going for the 480 just because it has 8gb gddram?

Also I dont need anything else to set up the hard drives in raid 1 right?


Thanks

I don't know how common it is, I too am dreading a new monitor buy for that reason.

I'm hoping I can just buy one in a store, and ask them if I can test the monitor in the store.

With just the cpu underwater and a new gpu, I'll try pushing the cpu a bit more and see if I can sneak a bit more ghz out of it. Maybe I was too cautious when I was younger.

I don't mind if I dip a few FPS below if it means I don't have to replace the entire build.

Thanks.

could you order a refurbished one online and then go into bestbuy and buy identical and switch monitors and then return refurb in store box?

do they check serial #?

- Dead Pixel on new ACER monitor
- Support says to send it in to have it fixed or replaced
- Ask if I should send it in original packaging, they say to do so.

20 days later
- comes back with dead pixel still there
- contact them, they say they do not fix dead pixels, can't answer why they said to send it in
- can't get a refund or send it to newegg due to lacking original package (mainly wanted a refund because I was so pissed at ACER)

so basically ACER is a scumfuck company that lies and fucks customers over. Tells them to send new monitor in if it has dead pixel, then destroy packaging, and send it back so they can't refund with newegg.

I did. I fucking ASKED their support.

The fucking service order literally says "DEAD PIXEL" on it.

I am upset they told me to send it in and said "we will fix it or replace it"

>
>ryzen cpus seem pretty bad for emulation

I checked quickly and the R5 1600 doesn't seem bad at all, you just need to overclock.
I'm also buying that cpu.

that build is pretty bad and the monitor is outright terrible

Look up some benchmarks, they usually have very aggressive overlcocks though.

If you do go for a 1080, get it before you start going at higher volts. I think around 1.5v is supposed to be safe though?
Might be easier to sell if the buyer knows you haven't pushed it too far, once the time comes to sell the 2600k.

Is amd cool n quiet still a thing with ryzen or do these chips modulate the fan pulse on their own according to the current workload (i think i've read something to that effect on some site earlier)?

Do AM4 motherboards even have the BIOS option to punch in the target temp?

amazon.com/LG-25UM58-P-25-Inch-21-UltraWide/dp/B01BV1XB2K/ref=sr_1_5?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1494531923&sr=1-5&keywords=lg monitor

well besides from tgis not being against their dead pixel policy you need better formatting to get people reading in the first place. Short title at the top, box in each segment, white out your name in this blue so you come off as a good guy.

Have you tried nudging it?
Pretty reasonable to be upset... How expensive of a screen was this?

Always read dead pixel policies though, some cheaper screens have pretty bad dead pixel policies, like needing 4 dead pixels close to each others, or have more than 16 dead pixels on the screen... On a 1920x1080 screen.

21:9 is a meme unless you're into racing simulators. iirc overwatch still doesn't have a proper support for it.
imo 27" 1440p ips display would be better. for 32"+ you want 4k resolution.

order from amazon. they take everything back

so thats better? thanks

do you guys have a link to a build thats good on pc parts picker?

>overwatch
ya who cares

get this

amazon.com/Samsung-U28E590D-28-Inch-LED-Lit-Freesync/dp/B00YD3DBOC/ref=sr_1_3?s=pc&ie=UTF8&qid=1494532204&sr=1-3&keywords=4k monitor

I am not upset over the expense. I am upset over the support. I asked them what I should do about the dead pixel and they told me to send it in.

then I get it back with dead pixel and they insult me over sending it in. They made me take like 3 pictures of the screen and send it to them. Telling me how the shape of the dead pixel is wrong. etc

It's more the fact they told me to send it in. I send it in. Then they give it back and say "nothing is wrong with a dead pixel we don't fix those"

It's the fact I was doing what they said. That they said the would fix it or replace it. Then after 20 days of shipping + service they tell me nothing is wrong with a dead pixel and they don't service them.

I had all the original packaging. The thing is I talked to support and asked if I should use the original packaging and they said yes.

they sent it back in a brown box with all that stuff destroyed and then tell me to contact newegg. Newegg can't take it back without packaging.

Acer basically fucked me over as hard as possible over this. They told me to send it in over the dead pixel and then say 20 days later they looked at the dead pixel and it's not something they care about. I can't return it to newegg now either.

I looked up the amazon reviews for the Asus Prime X370 and there are a couple of negative reviews about getting one with old bios which can't be updated or the motherboard being bricked. I also checked the qualified vendor list for that board and it doesn't show the ram I got (F4-3200C14D-16GVR) or the m.2 ssd I want to get (MZ-N5E500BW).

asus.com/us/Motherboards/PRIME-X370-PRO/HelpDesk_Download/

Can someone help?

thats a 180 dollars more then i want to spend

I looked up some various posts among some of the usual tech forums and I found that there was a generally favorable consensus that the 2600K would be fine, even with a clock of around 4.4 to 4.5. I think it's completely reasonable to think believe I could push just a bit more.

There's not denying that I'll be giving up some FPS, but mostly anywhere between 5-15 FPS depending on the game, which is totally acceptable to me if it means I don't have to buy a new CPU, mobo, ram, etc.

I'll definitely wait for the 1080 before I do anything crazy and see how it goes, then play with the OC after that. I'd be surprised if I could still sell this 2600K when I ever upgrade, but then again, it would be my first time trying to sell any old parts.

Thanks for your help.

are WD or OCZ m.2 SSDs good? or should I pay the Samsumg/etc premium?

>Also ryzen cpus seem pretty bad for emulation
An user asked how they fared a few threads back and someone answered saying it was pretty good with PCSX2 and Dolphin with an image.

- Buy brand new ACER monitor
- Has a dead pixel so contact their support for what to do
- They tell me to send it in, in the original packaging.
- 20 Days later get it back with the same dead pixel and original packaging all destroyed and a note that "It turns on for 24 hours with no trouble"

- Contact ACER for what happened. They tell me dead pixel is not a problem. They then accuse me of making it up, lying, and to get a refund with newegg.
- Contact newegg and can't get refund because ACER destroyed all the fucking packaging before sending it back

DO NOT BUY ACER ESPECIALLY MONITORS.

I feel sorry for you user, but why you ever thought that cheap af chink shit company would provide quality products or good support is beyond me. Acer is basically the most chink shit company ever

i5 7600k is retarded because the R5 1600 dominates him, and that's exluding video editing / encoding performances
In video editing / encoding, i5s should not even be thought of at all. 6 cores 12 threads vs 4c4t, guess what happens?
Get an R5 1600 with a b350 motherboard, the cooler isn't needed unless overcrlocking

No point in getting a freesync monitor with an nvidia card.

jet.com/product/ASUS-MX259H-25-inch-Wide-Screen-LED-Monitor-with-built-in-speakers/9cbb6dfaec3b463abc6da023d9195a17

use their spring promo code and it's only $150

$189 on amazon

amazon.com/MX259H-25-Inch-1920x1080-ICEpower-Frameless/dp/B00UFCVKI4

gl finding a nice monitor without that useless freesync shit

please reply

gigabyte because it's a 580
xfx did a great job with their 4xx cards but a 5xx card still outperforms it

thanks

Are there any good mATX motherboards for Ryzen yet?

oh really? I might go with it then. I dont see any other benefits to an intel core at all.

literally because
It's a dead pixel in the top right (my perspective) of the monitor.
Rosa H.: Alright
Rosa H.: It is okay.
Rosa H.: In this case , since this is a hardware issue and we will not be able to fix it from here, the best solution would be to schedule your device for repair. Is important for you to know that the process of the repair takes from 7 to 10 days, (once we receive the device) and also, we fix everything that is wrong with the device (unless physical damage). Your warranty is up to date and I will be more than glad to assist in creating a repair case for you. And, due to the inconvenience that the device is presenting, we will provide you with the shipping label, so it means that you will only have to package the device.
Rosa H.: We will fix it and if we are not able to fix it, then we will send you a replacement.

>when an item you really want that's in your cart gets replaced by something several times more expensive because it's sold out
Fuck you amazon
This makes me want to buy the rest immediately just to be sure this won't happens again.
Do you guys just wait until you're set for everything before actually buying?

I sure hope the Gigabyte GA-AB350M-GAMING 3 is good.. getting that for my R5 1600

n-no one?

look at benchmarks for games you want to play
considering the difference in price is up to 20 dollars you cant fuck up that hard

buy when price is low. things fluctuate so much on amazon. monitor i wanted went from 250 to 400 in 2 days. missed my chance

>went from 250 to 400 in 2 days
jesus christ,
Will do just that, thanks. I just hope they won't get mad if I order several things every day or every 2 days

It isn't even out yet.

What's the point of buying 1700x and 1800x over 1700?

the only one that will hate you is the ups driver

Try buying from a brick and mortar store. Canada Computers in-store offers a $5 insurance policy for any dead/stuck pixels.

if you have money to throw around / big budged and want the best possible performance

>What's the point of buying 1700x and 1800x

Good question when Intel exists

1800x is to ensure you get a 4ghz capable chip. The 1700x is the bad buy - no certainty it will hit 4ghz and leakier than the 1700.

Will I run into problem if I reuse the RAM from my current PC, 8GB DDR3 666 MHz, in my new build, 8GB DDR4 2133 MHz?

you can't mix and match ddr3 with ddr4.

DDR3 doesn't go into DDR4 slots.

I dont understand the question, the socket types are not compatible with each other

Well that certainly is a problem, I just hate how expensive RAM is nowadays but I still want to get 16 GB since it's both for video editing and gaymen

>I just hate how expensive RAM is nowadays
everyone does

anyone help.

Bought a MSI B250m Bazooka from Amazon, the mobo works but the audio is muffled, im assuming its the mobo?, can it be anything else. The sound works but its got some muffled /scratching in the background.

is there any wires i should check, or its only the mobo and get it replaced?

are you using a monitor's speakers or headphone/external speakers

monitors speakers, im using display port, but also tried HDMI, and both having the same issue

does the same thing happen when you use headphones?
also try updating the audio drivers

>tfw just missed an amazing ddr4 deal
Fuck

ya why is ram so much now? shouldn't the opposite have happened?

good call man, just tried with my earphones and they are working fine, so does that narrow it down to my GPU?

Yep, I managed to get 16gb of 2400mhz DR ram, for "only" 114€.
In a couple of months I think the prices will be 2x of what it was during the lows last year.

might be, if you have an igpu you could try without your gpu to see if it's better

I just built this PC today, and I havent downloaded GPU drivers, its a RX 480, should I, could that be an issue?

Why does Gsync make the 1070 not worth it? How is gpu worth affected if I have neither Gsync or freesync and don't care to pay the extra cost for either?

There are only 3 main manufacturers and they are moving to a new node so they have low yields, and cellphones are adopting ddr4l and the manufacturers are shifting production to that so less ddr4 is being made for desktops.

It could help, my audio drivers were actually made worse when I updated mine with my 480 lmao

Don't buy AM4 Anus boards.

What type of overclocking and temps can you expect out of the 1700's stock cooler?

damn, I did have this in an AMD build before upgrading today, and i just swapped it out and stuck it into the Intel build, could that also affect it?, or thats what GPU should be able to do?

gpus shouldn't be affected by going from one system to another as far as I know