>Headphone purchase advice
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Please put some effort into your requests and questions.
If you dislike a suggestion, explain why and try giving a better suggestion to whomever asked.
For sub-$50 headphones and IEMs, check out infographic in>Sup Forums wiki headphone FAQ:
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Previous thread:
Reposting
>Budget
300 yuros max, around 200 is ideal
>Location
Italy
>Source
Fiio X1
>Type of headphone
over ear
>Open or closed
whatever
>Comfort level
As long as they're not painful everything's fine
>Sound signature
I would go for neutral, but I enjoy some bass
>Past headphones
Shure se-215
Post music collection size
you win
I think the wost part is that some days I still can't find anything I want to listen to
Me too. I used to be super into music and always listened to at least 2 new albums a day but now i've burnt out. Still have a list of new albums to listen to that i made from back then, it has almost 2000 on it.
I'm searching headphones with the highest passive isolation. Only one I can find are the EX-29 Headphones and people say they are shit.
Might as well just buy cheap earmuffs and wear noise cancelling bluetooth earbuds underneath it. Or anyone know some other brand with high isolation?
Is there a specific reason you don't want active isolation?
By passive you mean no specific technology implemented to cancel noise?
I reckon CIEM's would do the best job at isolation if your ear impressions are done correctly.
I thought I had a decent amount.
Plebs, all of you.
Pic related is me, but this is not the largest collection I have ever seen. My gf had about 4 or 5TB of music on her server last time I checked
Impressive. Very nice.
How long have you been collecting?
It's impossible to have listened to all that stuff, or even like all that music. Just because you have a shit tonne of stuff most of which you haven't heard doesn't make you "patrician"
6 years or so
last.fm
Not everything, quite a large chunk of it
Judging by the amount of files, it's probably all
24/96 or 24/192
hmm, fair game. I guess it also depends on people's habits in terms of collecting music (and the file types). I mostly use streaming and i really like an album i buy it. So my collection is all albums i love and have heard.
Yeah see I'm the opposite, living in Australia means that most of Spotify (for example) is geo-blocked; and I can't afford the amount of music I have so I have to torrent it
Didn't see your post until just now. I'll use it for the next thread if you'd like.
Yeah i'm an aussie too. I find that between spotify and youtube i can find stuff most of the time. That said i have made a few blind purchases.
But i have noticed that a few albums i used to listen to on spotify have dissapeared.
One thing I always wanted when I was using Spotify was to use a third-party Music player. Having the freedom to customize Foobar, AIMP or MusicBee to your hearts content is so much nicer than the awfully dull player Spotify uses. I could never go back
HD650
Most of it is flac or other lossless format + cue, which is why the number of files is so small. Majority is 16/44.1
pic related
I refuse to use any streaming services. DRM, music might disappears anytime without warning, wrong tags, incomplete albums, remasters only, no choice of music players... And they don't have most of the music I listen to anyway.
That's another place where i differ i guess, because i never cared about layout. As long as a it's simple to use i'm happy, i just want the music. I normally just whack on an album and minimize spotify anyway.
They're 400
HE400s
350
Really? They were 260euros a month ago...
If you're happy with it that's all that matters
Yep, I'll look somewhere else and see if I can find them for less, thanks for the advice
They're 309euros now.
9 euros over your budget isn't that much...
buy used man
hifishark.com
hifiman cans drop in value real quick
also check the head fi classifieds, you can probably find them there for cheap
>Most of it is flac or other lossless format + cue, which is why the number of files is so small. Majority is 16/44.1
Oh okay, same here; that's why I thought it was 24/96 due to the size being almost 4x larger for 50%~ more files
How do these two compare?
haven't heard them but they look very similar judging from freq. response. blue is 650, red is 400s
P.S
actually 650 has a higher treble spike by the looks
both are dark-ish headphones but it depends where you stand on treble
Is my source (Fiio X1 with no amp) good enough to drive them?
Not sure about that one actually. Can't speak for the 650 but supposedly the 400s has low impedance and is easy to drive. But planar magnetic headphones like the 400 usually need a bit more juice. DAPs like the x1 output more power than smarthphones so you could be fine without an amp...
you have some googling to do
>Fiio performance parameters for headphone out
≥ 8 mW (300 Ω/THD+NHD650 power requirements according to one forum post on head fi:
167 mw - 24 ma - 7.08v rms
how do I interpret this numbers?
by buying O2
No bloody idea... i just tend to read people's personal accounts of what they use with their headphones
I'm looking for small (and cheap) foldable on ear headphone.
Any opinions about Sennheiser PX100-2?
Straight from the HD650 manual :
>sound pressure level 103dB at 1KHz, 1Vrms
8mW into 300ohms translates into 1.5V, so you can reach about 106dB at 1KHz.
That's enough for normal use.
The only reason you'd want more headroom is if you want to eq the lows and listen at ear-destroying levels.
>167 mw - 24 ma - 7.08v rms
You'd be able to reach around 120dB, which is the pain threshold. Also the headphone would probably produce more distortion than music at this point.
Is there a way to reliably EQ headphones that isn't a giant wank? I've used equalizer APO and added some notch filters to cut out the worst of the peaks, but getting levels even with everything else seems elusive.
Is there a reference tone or frequency i should be using to set levels to? I don't feel like i have the ear for adjusting via pink noise and it even gets pretty fatiguing after a few minutes of constant noise.
Hey guys, there's no Audiophile general up so I'm going to have to ask this here:
I just purchased a pair of Klipsch RF10 floorstanding speakers for my gaming PC setup.
I ran them through my receiver and they sound fantastic, but I needed to add a subwoofer to really handle the full spectrum like I want. So I had one option without spending any more money.
My receiver doesn't have a dedicated sub channel and the only woofer I own is the one included in the Klipsch Promedia 2.1 kit, which contains a built in amplifier that can push a maximum 200 watts. The original satellites would draw up to 35 watts at 4 ohms. The woofers' max draw is somewhere between 110-130 watts.
The new RF10 floorstanders I have attached can take a maximum of 75 watts with 8 ohms. My question is: will I ruin both pieces of equipment by using them together?
When I hooked them up last night I played some tracks on very low volume and everything seemed to work, and it sounded excellent. I'm asking this before I turn them up a bit today. Will I cook the built-in amplifier in the sub? Or will I damage the tweeters with clipping? What about both?
Help me, I'm a total noob with speakers.
Thank you very much!
>HD650 power requirements according to one forum post on head fi:
You have to set the target yourself, and not rely solely on what someone else thinks what output you want. That is, how loud do you want it, in decibels.
Head-fi folks tend to err severely on the side of caution, to the point of severe excess. Usually ends up with the amplifier being run at unity or low gain, and the pot being dialed far back. A useless amplifier, mostly being used as a buffer and pot.
Use the voltage output into the load. Voltage goes by 20log scale, headphone response is defined by voltage and not by power.
HD 650 at 1kHz, nominally.
>20 log (output/reference headphone sensitivity) + reference output
>20 log (1.48 Vrms) + 103
> ~106 dB
>Notch filters
Normally, we tell people to avoid most filters besides peaking and shelf filters. The other filters aren't helpful for someone just trying to perform headphone correction, and usually just lead to more troubleshooting. After watching people screw up using shelf filters, at this point I might prefer if people just used peak filters.
Notch filters are one of those things you shouldn't make use of for headphone correction, ever.
>adjusting via pink noise
Normally when trying to equalize off pink noise, you tend to break up the pink noise spectrum into multiple bands to compared the loudness of one band to another.
Try making a sine sweep, exponential. May also be called a chirp.
Do it slowly, so that you can easily follow the rise and dips and keep track of the frequency.
The notch filters i used weren't very aggressive, the biggest dip was about 7-8db or so and they've suceeded in reducing the worst of the harshness and peakiness that made them uncomfortable to listen to.
So if not for notches, where do i go from here? I know the frequencies of the major peaks and i have sinegen and APO programs as well as access to pink noise files etc, all i've done so far is identify peaks and try to lessen their severity but i'm not entirely sure whether it's an improvement.
To define "improvement", i guess i want better dynamic ability and better transients, but a signature that's slightly V shaped or close to flat.
That's not a notch filter, that's peaking filter you used to make a cut with.
Don't forget to fill in the dips of the headphones as well.
After that, some low-Q boost up high or low. Making that sort of boost is what shelf filters are intended for.
Thanks user, i'm most of the way there i think.
The natural sound of these IEMs is bass heavy up to the low mids, then it peaks at about 3.5khz and 7.8khz pretty violently with a weird dip or null of sorts that only covers a few hundred hertz around 4k somewhere.
A bit odd, but a fun challenge so far. Kinda hard sometimes to refresh my ears though between EQ sessions, sleep is needed sometimes before I go at it again.
>gone through 2 pairs atm50s
>gone through 3 pairs of sol republic
>gone through 6 aux cords for the sol republics
>recently left driver for the wireless sol republic just wont connect and the cord broke again
its been 7 years
i really need to find some decent headphones. ath are build like shit and sol republic just have a jewish thing where you have to replace the cord every few months.
Why not just EQ down frequencies to make a pair of headphones neutral and amp it up to make for the lower volume?
Are planars just a meme? The best headphones in the world are HD800s so they must be...right?
It's not a meme, but it's not superior either.
It's not the driver type that matters, it's the implementation.
Most planars are tuned to be bassy shit.
I have and use everyday a pair of Bose QC 25. There's nothing you can say to change my opinion, they are some of the best headphones you can buy.
Are they able to be modded and equalized to sound good?
>Most planars are tuned to be bassy shit.
Most dynamics have no bass.
would anyone be willing to fix my grados sr60i for a reasonable fee? the driver magnet busted lose i think. something is jingling around in the right ear cup.
This is already a thing in loudspeakers. In the case of loudspeakers, the EQ is hardwired into place or implemented via DSP.
There is some bulk to the filtering components and processors, but these can be made small enough to be implemented with insert earphones.
>Are planars just a meme?
If you are just going to say one thing is just better than other, you can leave that opinion at the door.
There is always a choice of trade-offs to make. There are some advantages and disadvantages of a flat membrane.
does it matter which headphone jack i put my headphones in my pc?
i got like one near the power button one on the back and one on the speakers
whats the simplest way to download high quality music? Where do I download it from? What keyword should I search songs with?
The back port is generally recommended but if you're not having any problems with any of the others don't worry about it
Are there any comfy closed-back headphones in the $200-700 range that also have fairly good isolation?
T70, DT1770
HD600 > HD650 > HD599 > k702
Comfortable, neutral, has enough bass (if desperate for bass take the 650 option, it's almost as good as HD600). If feeling cheap, go for HD599 or k702.
storage]$ du -hs music/
1.1T music/
>tfw first pair of headphones coming today
>tfw first movie ill watch with them is whiplash
im so excited
Hey anons, can someone recommend me a pair of earphones around $20-40 budget ? Will mostly be wearing it in the gym.
Sounds nice user, what headphones did you get? Are you planning on a headphone amp and/or DAC later on?
been wanting to pull the trigger on the bassier version of pic related, but can't find a FR graph that'll tell me how much more bassy they'd be...
>he hasn't heard Fostex higher end cans before
If you're going to lie to yourself at least don't spread it on here thanks
Why would the hd600 be better than the hd650?
Most people here don't like the 650 because it's a bit darker than the 600.
m40x
if i like them in a couple years ill get some 200-300$ ones with amp/dac whatever but for now no
Most people here don't like the HD650 because it's objectively and subjectively worse than HD600, and more expensive.
Okay user, whatever you say.
k7xx
More people may prefer the 650 over the 600 than you might think. I sure do, but it all comes down to personal preference. Neither is flat out better than the other
planarmagnetic masterrace reporting in
That's true of older versions with the black driver screen. On newer versions, the only differences are the midbass bump which is a bit more prominent on the HD650, and supposedly driver matching.
What does Sup Forums generally think about these? Looking for something to compliment my Shure SE-215 and upgrading from my M50X
I just got these yesterday. They are incredible, money well spent.
For earbuds, I use A-Jays Two. Ridiculously awesome earbuds for the nice price of 30 euros.
lol, hifiman.
hey guys what would be a good website to find about new album releases or just a decent music review/curator website
If you want portable they're fine, otherwise the DT770 are a more direct upgrade from the M50's.
sputnikmusic.com
theneedledrop on youtube
and Pitchfork
and though that's debatable
I don't have a dac to power them or I would have opted towards the Sennheiser HD 600
AKG K712
not a sennheiser
What's a bassier and cheaper alternative to the Etymotic HF5?
I was thinking of the HiFiMan RE400, but I heard it's build quality is pretty cheap.
SoundMagic E10 could also be an even cheaper possibility.
PortaPros are cheaper and better
anyone use buydig? is the order tracker down for anyone else?
superlux HD668B
Y/N?
At stock, comfort is garbage with the shit K240 Pleather like pads and wing system. Clamp can be an issue for someone with a thicc head and the bars may touch your head. For my baby head, comfort isn't an issue after I swapped the pads.
Sound at stock's okay. Very midbassy and lacks extention below 50Hz. Mids are clean although slightly recessed. Treble is the main thing that a lot of people complain about because they're pretty bright headphones though it hasnt bothered me. Soundstage is pretty wide for a headphone that cheap. I've EQ'd the midbass down and brought anything below 50Hz up to my liking in pic related.
I've had mine since christmas and I recommend them if you can remedy/get past the flaws it has.
Hello /hpg/!
I just wanted to pass by to thank you guys for having recommended me the Sony MDR-7506 when i passed by a few months ago. I really enjoy it!
Thank you, /hpg/!
That's what you could and should do if you have the headroom with amplifier. That's basically the idea of headphone equalization in a nutshell.
If you don't have a discrete sound card, the two outputs(front and back panel) route to the same on-board codec. Use whichever is more convenient. If you have problems with quality, try the other one.
wow.
thank you
Seconding this. My future brother in law is looking to me for advice on this.
this is headphone related btw
ama-nee is happy makina liked the recommendation.