/pcbg/ - PC Building General

/pcbg/: Post your component list; rate other anons'; ask questions in general.

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons & compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com/

THEN state the PURPOSE of your PC & BUDGET. State COUNTRY if not USA.
List GAMES/SOFTWARE you use often. List resolution & hz if gaming.
Seeking build improvements? Clarify goal: lower price or improved specs?
ctrl+f to see if your question was answered already

>How to assemble a PC, select components & more. (somewhat outdated)
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC

CPUs:
>G4560 - budget builds (R5 1500X - generally all you need for 60fps with power to spare. No i5
>R5 1600 - best value for higher fps gaming & mixed usage; 1600x if you don't want to OC
>i7-7700k - bad value but good; may have heat issues even at stock clocks
>R7/Xeon - compute/MEGAtask/mixed use

Graphics:
>G4560 iGPU is fine for LoL, dota2, rocket league, etc
>1050Ti/RX560 at ~$105. Drop settings if not Freesync/Gsync on newer games
>RX570 4GB - 1080p@60+hz, running most maxed; older games at 144+hz
>RX580 8GB - 1440p@60+hz, inject SMAA & drop settings for some games
>1060 - Generally outperformed by the RX 580 and GSync costs more; consider only if AMD is not an option (ie CUDA)
>1070 - usually not worth the extra cost for Gsync, but depends
>1080 - 1080p@90-144+hz maxed; 1440p at lower hz.
>1080Ti - 1440p@90-144+hz; 4k@60hz in SOME games, more at lower settings
>Freesync2 & Vega soon

General:
>READ PRODUCT REVIEWS to see if that cheap SSD/PSU or whatever is reliable
>Consider larger SSD-only for what you budget SSD+HDD combined. Add HDD later once needed
>NVMe aren't for faster OS boot. They're primarily for productivity as a scratch disk
>Stop fucking confusing any M.2 drive with NVMe. M.2 is a form factor
>Go mATX form factor for cheaper board+case
>1 SR DIMM is slower than 2 DIMMs
>Good air cooler is almost always wiser than an AIO

prev:

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/
ebay.com/itm/HP-Z620-Daytrader-PC-2-60GHz-8-Core-E5-2670-8GB-RAM-500GB-HDD-/182515744116?hash=item2a7ec93d74:g:Bi8AAOSwZKBZGg3R
ebay.com/itm/ASUS-Geforce-GTX-1060-6GB-GDDR5-Turbo-Edition-VR-TURBO-GTX1060-6G-/272670778684?hash=item3f7c71e53c:g:qkIAAOSwtGlZF~iy
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820158079
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/dk4nhq
pcpartpicker.com/list/37j2Gf
tulsa.craigslist.org/sys/6126357069.html
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

...

No? That's pretty normal with anything.
Though you could always plastidip a shroud or something to get it to match instead of trying to buy parts that are matching colors.

You might be slightly gay, but it's [current year], so that's okay.

Scratch that, I did find the RAM I was looking for. I still look pretty gay tho

You're a faggot yes, and contribute to why parts are getting sillier and sillier names and more and more ridiculous 1337H4XX0R aesthetics.

Is the HD 7450 1gb a good buy at under $20? Looking to add a second monitor to my old pc, I'm not much of a gaymer.

I recently got a new case the Rajintek Thetis, it only has 4 mounts for 120mm fans 2 on the top one on the back and one on the bottom. Any ideas for the optimal fan placement?

Build for gaming, animu and gaming 1080p. Not sure if i should throw abit more money after a fully modular PSU to get a cleaner build.
EU fag so prices dont fit. Already got the Graphics card and SSD pcpartpicker.com/list/

AM4 upgrade kit for my cooler still hasn't arrived.

Rijintek has retarded internal design.

Either put 2 intake at the top,and put an exhaust at the rear.
Or flip the internals of the case, put bottom as intake, and top or rear as exhaust.

Friendly reminder that adaptive sync is a meme desu (and so is G-sync)

You can use ANY monitor you want no matter your GPU.

On 144Hz monitors, screen tearing is barely noticeable and input lag (supposedly caused by V-sync) is a non-issue.

So I was recommended the ASRock AB350 Pro4 by a friend a short while ago. While looking over the memory QVL I noticed that every kit seemed to be 16 or 32gb. Would it be possible to use the CORSAIR Vengeance LPX 8GB kit with the board without running into any significant issues?

What if I buy this:

ebay.com/itm/HP-Z620-Daytrader-PC-2-60GHz-8-Core-E5-2670-8GB-RAM-500GB-HDD-/182515744116?hash=item2a7ec93d74:g:Bi8AAOSwZKBZGg3R

And this:

ebay.com/itm/ASUS-Geforce-GTX-1060-6GB-GDDR5-Turbo-Edition-VR-TURBO-GTX1060-6G-/272670778684?hash=item3f7c71e53c:g:qkIAAOSwtGlZF~iy

And put them together? How would you rate the resulting PC in terms of performance/price ratio?

What's the best 1440p? Preferably with good color gamut?
I don't need Free/Gsync gimmick, just need to play games under it's native resolution without being too muddy

can someone do better for a similar price?

Are Team - Dark even compatible with Ryzen?

Should be okay though you might need a new PSU as well.
And those are really weak cores.

>can someone do better for a similar price?
Not really. That's a solid build.

It might downclock, and you might have to manually OC it to get 2666, 2800, or 2933, but it'll work.

Why the sata M2 drive? Why not just use a 2.5" and save the M2 slot for some future purpose?

Not really sure if graphics card would fit, and I'm not sure if you could go that high on grahpics card without being too bottlenecked on the CPU.

That CPU is not a single thread performer, it's server CPU, which is more designed around multi-core workloads.

Thank you user for your swift reply.

That board has 2 M.2 slots iirc. Though just one is full speed NVMe.

What 1080TI should I get?

Yeah, that makes sense then.

On pcpartpicker I am going to buy a 1600X (which apparently doesn't come with its own cooler) and every god damned motherboard and cooler combination says their might be incompatibilities and I might need some sort of adapter shit to put on the motherboard. As far as I can tell all the builds on there are with the 1700(which has a cooler) the few 1600X never mention needing any adapter for their boards. Will a fucking 212 EVO or CRYORIG H7 or Corsair H60? Will they fit or is this some fucking riddle? How do I determine this?

You have to contact the cooler manufacturer for the kit.

There are a few that come with a kit.
Noctua's which end in -AM4, and Thermaltake Le Grande Macho. Maybe there are others.

That makes it much simpler to buy one with the kit included. It seems Nocuta is a popular choice anyway. I'll go with that to retard proof it. Thank you for the help.

Got a Coolermaster hyper tx3 and came with the kit, as well.

spend $8 more and get 3200 RAM from a brand that's likely to actually hit that speed

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16820158079

Recover the difference by switching to a 2.5" SSD instead of m.2

What's your case user? Do you like it?

Hey monitorfriend what's a good 24" 1080p monitor with blur-reducing technologies? I have been using a budget 144hz monitor but it doesn't have any blur reduction features and at the moment I could afford an upgrade.

any B350 motherboards confirmed working with DDR4 3200?

>look up price of 1080 Ti
>$1000

Can I plastidip an SSD or would it overheat?

just dip it in a bucket of paint, make sure it doesn't get into the contacts, what's the worst that could happen?

bump

au.pcpartpicker.com/list/dk4nhq

good mobo if i don't want any (GAMING)TM features and leds?

Yeup.
Flipping the internals, for intake at bottom, exhaust through at the back through the CPU cooler.

Still waiting for an ASRock motherboard though...
>Build will be
>Case: Raijintek Metis
>Mobo: AM4 mITX ASRock
>CPU: r5-1600
>Cooler: Be Quiet! Shadow Rock 2
>RAM: 2x8gb Ballistix sport LT 2400mhz
>GPU: RX 580 Sapphire Nitro+ / Aorus XTR / Red Devil - Unsure, preferably Aorus XTR, but unsure if it'll fit
>PSU: Corsair SF450
>Fans: 2x Silentwings 3 120mm - Mounting on a cutout to be made on bottom of the case, replacing the fanshroud on GPU

2x 3.5" hdds, and a desk lamp, for size.

>good mobo if i don't want any (GAMING)TM features and leds

you spent an extra $100 to virtue signal how much you hate gamers and rice

Oh, also
>SSD: MX300 525gb 2.5"
>HDD: 2tb seagate 2.5"

please elaborate where i could save 100 bucks on
I just don't see the difference between this mobo and a $350 one apart from the price

Has anyone got the Raijintek Aenas and replaced the led strips? I like the internals and theoverall look but those LEDS are the wrong color for my rice.

enamel paint would be better.

my man you have to get the share link. we can't see your cookies

Helping a friend put together a computer for about $800. Prices are rather inflated in boland tho.
Coming from xbox360 and using it for professional writing means not much focus on nor expections regarding performance.

pcpartpicker.com/list/37j2Gf
Is there anything objectively wrong or that could be improved?
I suggested a cm450 but it's almost twice as expensive and the case will likely be something more "fun" than the define c mini.

Reminder its cheaper and better to buy a prebuilt

>Buying entirely new pc build
>want to connect 3 DELL U2515H and a TV to it like this plan I've made

What GPU/s would you recommend for this? I don't game so I don't want to go overkill on it, but at the same time I'd like to be able to run all the monitors/tv at the same time smoothly.

I won't be doing much graphically-intensive. The most graphically intensive thing I can see myself doing is watching and possibly editing videos.

I haven't decided on what TV to get but it will probably be something basic, not 4k.

I'll be using GNU+Linux and ideally with the free drivers.

400w isn't enough though, it'll turn off during spikes.

400w actually is enough. That system won't pull over like 300-350.

DDR4 2400 and only a single DIMM. Unless it's dual rank, that's a 25% performance hit right there.
And only a 64GB SSD.

So no, that's not cheap. You could make a better build for about $850-$950.
These prebuilts also have a worse cooler than the Wraith Spire, as well, as they're made from tray CPUs they get for 200bux or something.

its 1000w see all the free upgrades

I think an RX550 is the lowest end GPU you can get to handle 4-6 monitors. If I'm not mistaken, the 1030 only does 3.

and 1000W is way too fucking much, they're "upgrading" you to a chinkshit PSU

>And those are really weak cores.
what

Skip the 212 evo, and get a 1500X instead.
I'd be more comfortable with ASRock B350 pro4, I'm not entierly sure if it's completely objective, but I do believe the ASRock board is better on paper. The dual bios from gigabyte is a nice perk though, so whichever I guess.

I believe Ballistix Sport LT is better RAM, due to being "Dual Rank/Double Sided", get one in 2400mhz. You really want to add another 2400mhz stick though... If that's never going to happen, get 2x4gb sticks, but I would really suggest to get 2x8gb in the end.

RX 570 is better value than GTX 1050 ti.
Drop the SSD in order to save some money, and get the better graphics card instead.

That HDD is enterprise I believe, which means it'll be much louder than a regular HDD. Make sure you buy a HDD that's intended for desktop use. Since you'll not be using a SSD, make sure it's 7200rpm.

I reiterate you are all faggots who couldn't build your way out of a wet paper bag.

Thread is embarrassing for the rest Sup Forums tb.h

2012 CPU clocked at 2.5GHz

There's always powerspikes. For example, the old AMD CPUs would run at 200w, but during spikes they could consume up to 300w.
During those spikes your PSU may be overloaded, leading to a crash.

If both the GPU and the CPU has a spike at the same time, your system would crash.

There he is

seconding this
there's a reason everyone has a loooot of room in their PSU wattage and it's specifically because of spikes
don't cheap out on the PSU, it's the worst thing to do

If it's an actual work computer, only for writing... Then you may get gtx 1050, or RX 560 4gb, whichever is cheapest.


Actually, you may as well make a G4560 build, using it's internal graphics, if it's intents are solely work.

Question. I'm thinking of finally upgrading my computer. I'm leaning towards the 7700k because the Asus Z270E mobo has built in wifi. Is built in wifi any good or should I just get a 1700? Also what mobo would be the best for the 1700 in the $200 range.

Thanks - that's much lower spec than I thought I needed, that'll save me a lot.

If you're considering both the 7700k and the R7 1700 it usually means both aren't fit for you, because they offer very opposite performances so they're not fit for the same kind of workloads at all
What do you do with your computer? Just gaming? Some multitasking? What softwares?

Got my Ryzen 1600, Asrock AB350 Pro4, G.Skill F4-3200C16D-16GVGB ram.

Any idea how to get the ram to work at 3200MHz?
I can't seem to get it above 2400MHz.

>tulsa.craigslist.org/sys/6126357069.html

Does /pcbg/ enjoy laughing at local, online listings?

You will also need a splitter since most of them only have 3 outputs. I don't know which exactly. You'll have to double check.
Unless you can find one with 4 outputs, then you're fine.

I think Raven Ridge are supposed to also suppose at least 4, maybe up to 6, monitors. Though most motherboards currently only have 3 outputs.

Updated the bios to latest?
Updated the bios to second latest (this one is better for RAM OC)?

I have a 4k monitor so there's that. And I game and do some video encoding/editing. Also I heard the R5 and R7 will be more relevant in the coming years since games are starting to take advantage of more cores, which is why I considered the 1700.

Are 144hz, 120hz monitors any good if im gonna play games at 60 to 90 fps?

i didn't come here to feel user, i feel bad for the guy for selling his pc

If you're playing at 1080p you might as well just overclock your monitor.

Did you try overclocking the RAM manually and reading a guide on how to? You should at least be able to hit 2666 or 2800 even if timings are loose.

Not if it's not freesync or gsync, no.
You can lock the framerate to 1/2 the refresh rate. so 72fps on 144hz. It would be the same as having a 72hz monitor.
I guess at 108fps would work too. Anything that's an even multiple that will keep the frames lined up.

Anyone got that power consumption chart with 1800X and 6900k/6960x?

>i do video encoding/editing
R7 1700 it is then
Much faster at is, much much room for programs open while doing so. When jumping around in a file (as in going at some point in the video then at some much later point then coming back etc) while video-editing, it's also much better to have more cores, helps the loading speed a whole lot

> since games are starting to take advantage of more core
That's also a pretty good reason, considering the 7700k gets 70 - 80% usage in current game whereas the R5 1600 gets 50 ~ 60% and the R7 1700 30 - 40%

I don't have the one you mentionned with the 6960x but i do have one with the 6900k

Is there an AM4 mobo that everyone agrees is good?

Asrock Taichi is the current king of the hill.

There isn't a "Go to" mobo, it depends on budget and needs. Don't spend $70 more for things you won't use.

Pro4 and mATX prime are often recommended.
Gigabyte has nice BIOS and Dual BIOS on their gaming 3, and whole lineup pretty much, but their VRMs are ass on the cheaper ones.

I have the pro4 and I like it. Sensors picked up fine on Linux, which people seem to have a problem with on Gigabyte and MSI boards.

Hello guys, I'm building the gaming PC for my nephew.

Specs so far:
- AMD A8-7600 CPU (APU)
- 16 GB 1600 DDR3 RAM
- Shitty Cooler Master B2 500W PSU
- Radeon 7850 2GB GPU
- 128 GB SSD and probably a 3 TB HDD, perhaps a 2TB.
- A case I don't like so probably a Cooler Master. Either HAF 912 or another one.

My question is:

Is the EVGA GeForce GTX 950 2GB FTW worth a $138 investment? That GPU is currently on a "inventory cleaning sale" (=they will no longer be selling it because it's older and it's therefore slightly cheaper). I realize the GTX 950 isn't the worlds fastest GPU but it should be faster than the 7850 at a lower wattage. A big minus that makes me wonder if it's worth the trouble is that 2GB of RAM, 2GB isn't much.

>ASRock AB350M-HDV

How decent of a ryzen motherboard is this from a gaming/video editing et al point of view? The price is really tempting on this one imo

Also does it have decent onboard sound for listening to shit if you're somewhat of an audiophile

No heatsink, so it's bad, you may run into issues if you try to overclock.

Get the b350 pro4

What price is this going to be overall?
>Is the EVGA GeForce GTX 950 2GB FTW worth a $138 investment?
No, you could get a GTX 1050 for less than that, and it outperforms it quite noticeably

Want to upgrade my GPU to match the processing power a bit, recommendations?

>to match the processing power
so you mean spending money on a GPU that you don't need?

You think my GPU will support higher graphic games? People have been telling me its a bit lacking compared to my CPU and my build is lopsided

Overall price of this system so far is
> not re-selling the parts but giving it to my nephew
and perhaps $112 for a 3TB HDD if I don't instead buy 4 3TB's and replace a 2TB 4 drive array and give him a 2TB or two or four.

I can't get a 1050 2GB for less than that, it's
this GTX 950 at $137 or
GTX 1050 at $153
which isn't that much of a difference if I'm going to buy a GPU.

hi /pcbg/ just a question.

is a soundcard the same as an external DAC/AMP?

pic unrelated

It's okay for a 4 core without iGPU. Ryzen are so low power. For a 6 or 8, you should at least get a board that has VRM heatsinks.

$30 DAC solves that problem.

>GTX 950
Not even worth $30, dude.

Just get a better model RX580 like the Red Devil GS or GTR-S.
It's like 15% more cost for 10% better, but meh, worth it. Especially worth it for the lower noise.

Uhh. It'll do 1440p 60fps+ fine for like 99.95% of games. Any game if you just turn settings down to high or very-high instead of max settings that don't even look any different.
But if this is for gaming, since you seem so concerned, you should really just get the 1600 and overclock it.

Does anybody have the asrock z270M Pro4? I took this picture from the manual and it looks like a graphics card in PCIE1 would obscure sata ports 2 and 3.

Sorry for the spoonfeeding but which one of these would be a good pick?

1080 ti, basically... A CPU is generally never going to be bottlenecking, you can keep it for years while only upgrading the graphics card.

Yes. Well, kind of. A soundcard is a card that goes into your box and we usually call the DAC/AMP on your motherboard a soundcard that too.

A DAC/AMP is an external box you connect with USB that your computer sees as a soundcard too. The difference is mostly that this box is away from interference from your computer and you can put it on your desk and connect to it.

The only problematic issue with motherboard audio is that you usually have a wire going from the motherboard to the front of your case which acts as an antenna. Connecting to the back of the motherboard doesn't have this problem and that gives you the same audio quality as an external meme DAC/AMP box. But.. then you have to go to the back of your case every time you want to connect your headphones.

If you want real good audio then you may want to buy a good traditional amplifier / receiver and these are all connected with HDMI these days which uses 5.1 or 7.1 PCM digital transport and the DAC in a $1000 receiver is better than a $30 one and they all have headphone jacks too. The downside to the solution I use (a Pioneer surround receiver) is that I have to have that thing powered on to use the headphone jack on it.

These days there's really no point in having a "sound card" in your PC. All you really want is some way to send digital audio from your computer and either an external DAC/AMP or a good stereo or surround receiver. That would be HDMI for a new receiver or SPDIF for any older one.

>which isn't that much of a difference if I'm going to buy a GPU.
Well the difference is there though dependent on the games. For $16 more i'd definitely jump on it, but it's up to you.

No. Soundcards have integrated DAC and at times AMP in them. DAC to converts digital (bits, 0 and 1) into analog (vinyle, cassette, radio). Your headphone / speakers can't read digital, only analog, so a DAC must always be there.

The reason external DAC / AMPs are often recommended is because soundcards, since they tend to be inside the computer, tend to pick interferences from other parts of the computer, adding unwanted noises to the audio you're listening to.

Yes, the RX 580 is a great 1080p card and even decent at 1440p.
Unless you're gonna get a high refresh rate monitor or high resolution one, there's no need to change it.
But change that PSU, 430 is cutting it too short for your build.

It can turbo up to 3.3ghz, and will go a bit higher than that due to the HP workstations having a feature called Intel Enhanced Turbo Boost. This processor is well regarded in the field of gaming (which is the only area the single thread performance will matter these days for 99% of people). There are a variety of videos on youtube showcasing the performance of the e5-2670 v1 (and other Xeons) that show it easily hitting 60 fps in AAA games and often going far beyond it (Doom in particular runs extremely well due to great multi-threading support).

DAC/amp are better shielded. The inside of your PC is very noisy and a $200 sound card is generally worse than a $30 DAC due to this.

Those are.. all Gigabyte cards. I gave you two options already.

Will a 1600 OC 3.9/4.0ghz draw as much power as a 1700 OC 3.9/4.0ghz?
Or what kind of power draw difference would I see?

Based on If a 1600 draws as much as it's r7 variants, I'm getting a bit worried 450W won't be enough got 1600 and RX 580.

There's really no other option to Corsair SF450, the SF600 is way nosier, and you actually need to mod it because the fan doesn't really fit completely (or something like that).

Is getting 8GB memory worth it?

-For the 580 vs the 4GB card