/pcbg/ - PC Building General

/pcbg/: Post your component list; rate other anons'; ask questions in general.

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons & compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com/

THEN state the PURPOSE of your PC & BUDGET. State COUNTRY if not USA.
List GAMES/SOFTWARE you use often. List resolution & hz if gaming.
Seeking build improvements? Clarify goal: lower price or improved specs?
ctrl+f to see if your question was answered already

>How to assemble a PC, select components & more. (somewhat outdated)
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC

CPUs:
>G4560 - budget builds (R5 1500x - generally all you need for 60fps with power to spare. No i5
>R5 1600 - best value for higher fps gaming & mixed usage; 1600x if you don't want to OC
>i7-7700k - bad value but good; may have heat issues even at stock clocks
>R7/Xeon - compute/Multitask/mixed use

Graphics:
>G4560 iGPU is fine for LoL, dota2, rocket league, etc
>1050Ti at ~$105. Drop settings if not Freesync/Gsync on newer games; RX560 if discounted
>RX570 4GB - 1080p@60+hz, running most maxed; older games at 144+hz
>RX580 8GB - 1440p@60+hz, inject SMAA & drop settings for some games
>1060 - Generally outperformed by the RX 580 and GSync costs more; consider only if AMD is not an option (ie CUDA)
>1070 - 1080p@144hz/1440p@100+hz
>1080 - 1080p@90-144+hz maxed; 1440p at lower hz.
>1080Ti - 1440p@90-144+hz; 4k@60hz in SOME games, more at lower settings
>Freesync2 & Vega soon

General:
>READ PRODUCT REVIEWS to see if that cheap SSD/PSU or whatever is reliable
>Consider larger SSD-only for what you budget SSD+HDD combined. Add HDD later once needed
>NVMe aren't for faster OS boot. They're primarily for productivity as a scratch disk
>Stop fucking confusing any M.2 drive with NVMe. M.2 is a form factor
>Go mATX form factor for cheaper board+case
>1 SR DIMM is slower than 2 DIMMs
>Computex in a few days, wait for it

Other urls found in this thread:

amazon.in/Gigabyte-GA-H61M-S1-GA-H61M-S1-Motherboard/dp/B00B5QDLTK?tag=googinhydr18418-21
pcpartpicker.com/list/Qx243F
pcpartpicker.com/list/4F42Gf?
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147260
asus.com/in/Graphics-Cards/PH-GTX1050TI-4G/
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

Does anyone know of a good set of forward-tilting monitor arms?

Why get the 1600 instead of the 1600x?

better included Heatsink that allows for a decent overclock, and cheaper. Resulting in a much cheaper overall system.

Speaking of cooling, What's a logical upgrade from a hyper 212 evo if I want to push my clock speeds a bit further? Sitting a 4.2ghz with a 6600k right now. I know it can probably get to 4.4 with this cooler, but I'm one of those people who can't stand the thought of any high temps.

>mfw I have to get 1600 instead of the 1600x even if I have a aftermarket cooler because the AM4 kit takes 3 weeks to arrive and I am not going to be that long without a computer.

Dammit.

i was convinced last thread that the difference was minimal (plus the 1600 comes with a good enough fan)

>run on sentences
If you really want a 1600x, I'd just go with that. 3 weeks isn't a very long time. Can you pay for expedited shipping? Do you already have a computer that you just want to upgrade?

this is what it looks like when you try too hard, kids

I mean I could just have the CPU and Motherboard laying there while waiting for the AM4 kit, but selling my old parts would be better short term.

I'm getting a 1TB sata SSD for my primary storage.

Is it worth getting a small additional M2 drive just for the OS? Don't want to use HDDs anymore if I can help it.

SSD isn't meant for storage. SSD is for OS and programs/games, HDD is for storage.

What's a good program for determining you real time clock speed of your CPU? for some reason CPU-Z is broke for me

This thread is more for buying parts for making a new computer, or upgrading an existing computer. Not so much software help. You can find a tangentially related thread or /sqt/ if you can't find anything.

I'm just sick of hard drives dying on me. I want to drop them entirely.

I already store all my personal files on a hefty portable drive so the 1TB SSD would only be for programs and games. I just want to know whether I should just format everything for that drive or put the OS on a smaller, separate one.

how many hard drives have you gone through?

3 in the past 2 years.

Well I'm asking because I just upgraded my GPU and RAM, filling all four slots and yesterday it failed to boot after a week of running in its original configuration
Needless to say I went back into the UEFI BIOS (MSI MXGaming5 Z97 mATX MB btw), and placed it on 40% OC config and I'm trying to see if it running correctly or if I have to manually configure this bitch, care to help a fellow Sup Forumsentooman?

Is there a consensus on a good cheap pc for overwatch?

Yes, a g4560 + 1050ti will work pretty good

Do you drop them or what? That's still within warranty time.

I have an 2 year old amazon.in/Gigabyte-GA-H61M-S1-GA-H61M-S1-Motherboard/dp/B00B5QDLTK?tag=googinhydr18418-21
Should I put a 1050ti into that or should I upgrade the whole PC? (Processor is some Intel 2*** )

Second the g4560. for graphics, 1050ti is good, but I would actually be looking more towards a used gtx 960 if you can find one around $100usd equivalent or gtx 950 or even a new Rx460 should suffice if you don't have many other games in mind.

If i was starting from the ground up would there be a kit to get everything I need not including those 2 parts?

Whats a good long lasting mouse wihich only has a left/right/middle scroll button, no leds rgbs, no extra buttons?

>.in
POO

More accurately the first one died maybe 2 and a half years ago. I did a big interstate move shortly after and something must have gone wrong in the move and it got jostled or something. And just recently one of my current ones kicked the bucket.

These are second hand ones I've cannibalized from PCs I've taken off the hands of various people to be fair... but the point remains I want to leave HDDs behind.

So this isn't even relevant to my original question at all anyway, I don't suppose you can answer it? Or has this just been a giant diversion. I'm not asking whether or not to use an HDD.

would this make the game playable on minimum settings or higher?

1050ti($170) or rx470($250)?

Getting an RX 460 for close to the same price as a 1050 ti is retarded.

1050 ti stomps RX 560 completely. Even 1050 is faster than RX 560, but may end up running into VRAM bottlenecks.

Hate to break the news for you, but your SSD is gonna die in 10-15 years too, just like your HDDs did.

Moving up from a hyper 212 evo sees very diminishing returns.
You'll get a good improvement with a noctua NH-D15, but it'll cost like $90 and high end water cooling will only get you a little more

hyper 212 evo is one of the uglies coolers out there, it's extremely loud, and it's really not cooling well.

Spend some extra for 10C cooler temps, 1/3rd of the noise, and much more aesthetically. Afaik, the difference in longevity of the hardware between 70C and 80C is very big.

Probably not, IMO. The larger drives tend to actually have the best controllers etc and good speed.

pcpartpicker.com/list/Qx243F or pcpartpicker.com/list/4F42Gf? Obviously 1440p stuff

Anyone got any recommendations for a compact case that support ATX?

I'm namely looking at the Refine C, but I'm up for suggestions.

Buy a liquid cooler if you really want to push your CPU without worrying about temps. You'll pay about $70 more but you'll never ever see 65c.

I dont think many people care about ugly but it is indeed very loud compared to similarly performing and priced coolers like the cryorig h7 or the be quiet! pure rock, but i'm just saying if he's already got the 212 evo he might want to temper his expectations of what he can expect from an upgrade performance wise.

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16811147260

This case seems decent for $27. Rosewill never fucks up *too* badly.

with a 212evo I would hit 90c on stress tests. that cooler is awful if you have a strong chip and plan to stress it.

10-15 years is 2-3X what a heavily used HDD will last.

you can buy a RX480 for under 250, where the fuck are you looking?

Okay man you have a hate boner for the thing. we get it. He already owns one.

and he's looking to upgrade.

he should get a 140mm liquid cooler if he wants great temps, or a 280mm liquid cooler if he never wants to worry about temps ever again.

That's excessive. You have a problem.

>liquid shit

No.

Only servers, or production work, heavily uses HDDs.
A HDD will last as long as an SSD.

That guy bought used, used, HDDs, and complains about them breaking.

How is it excessive?

liquid cooling is the same as RBG, it's just in right now.
AIOs are shit, only warranted if you don't have the clearance without one.

He bought a 212 evo, his budget is clearly in an entirely other dimension from watercooling.

>liquid shit

It's the best method of cooling.

Sri Lanka. Import duties and taxes.
rx480 is $350

$100 for a 140mm liquid cooler vs $90 for a DH-15

DH-15 is going to be better.

Are you retarded?
Where in the context of my mentioning that cooler did it seem like i was recommending it to him?
Jesus fucking christ this whole conversation is exhausting.

So I'm planning to get this : asus.com/in/Graphics-Cards/PH-GTX1050TI-4G/ Any other models?

GO FUCK YOURSELF

the other guy recommended a DH-15, which hits 75c in stress tests vs 50c with a 280mm AIO.

The poster said he doesn't want to have to worry about temps, and heatsinks are fucking terrible for anyone who (actually) stresses their system with an overclock.

You fucking faggots jerking off over heatsinks need to fucking get real. They're only good for chips at stock clocks or for people who don't stress their systems.

50C the first 5 minutes... You need like an hour to heat up the loop.

Also, 280mm is twice as big as a 140mm.

ok, a final question, I have a vga monitor. Do all graphics cards support vga with adapter?

>you need like an hour to heat up the loop

Exactly. Far more molecular surface area to hold more heat. Not to mention far more radiator surface area to dispose of heat too.

You'd have to get an HDMI to VGA adapter for newer high end cards but older ones will have a VGA port. It will work either way.

Which means it's going to take a much longer time to cool down, and those "50c" temps you're talking about aren't real.

>the other guy recommended a DH-15
No other guy, that was me and you just have terrible reading comprehension.
>"You'll get a good improvement with a noctua NH-D15, but it'll cost like $90"
Is not a recommendation, notice the "but" instead of a more neutral or positive conjunction.
ESL?

see

Then what do you recommend for someone with a newer i5 who would like to overclock and stay underneath 70c?

A reality check because that's not consistently achievable even with water cooling without some piss weak overclocking.

Then why can I run Prime95 or Realbench with a solid OC on my i7 and stay under 55c?

To add to that, this is my big issue with /pcbg/. This is a thread for newcomers and the uninformed to ask questions and get impartial advice about PC building, but you guys don't have enough experience to give out good answers.

Delid, short benchmarking or unrealistically low ambient temperatures or some kind of mixture of the 3.
That or just good old fashioned lies. I've seen the claims every now and then but whenever an actually reputable reviewer comes to do some kaby lake overclocking it's a hot mess.
Hell, most delid demonstrations i've seen only bring the temps down to the 60s or 70s.

Now it just sounds like you're trying to call me a liar for the sake of your own argument. Petty.

Bumping

I'm calling you a potential liar because of your lack of verifiable and reliable data.
Which is completely fair.

What is keeping you from updating the whole thing? What sort of games do you play and what sort of monitor?

I've already posted a screenshot here. and I'll be happy to post another one running any other stress testing program.

Because you're only running it for a few minutes.

How long should I run it for?

720p monitor. I play Space engine and rocket league.
If I want to update the whole thing I'll have to wait a bit longer for the $$$.

Run it for 3 hours to be sure.

You'll need to put a lot more work in than that.
Bring up cpuZ to show clocks and voltages, show hard drive temps or an actual measurement to get an idea of ambient temperature, stress for longer than 20 minutes and verify whether your CPU is delidded or not.
That's what it would take for me to at least consider that your data is either entirely made up or legitimate. because at the moment you're simply omitting every variable.

Those games recommend a GTX660. If your PSU can handle a 1050ti then you'll be fine.

Which stress program would you like to me to use?

Aida64 or prime95 will do. and monitor temperatures with coretemp or HWmonitor

Is your current single DIMM dual rank?
If so the benefit will be small to adding another.

If it's single rank, another can improve minimum FPS by as much as 25%.

Having your ram run at twice the speed is going to give you performance gains no matter if it's single rank or double rank.

Why does fucking shopping take so long?

What brands are good fro nvidia gpus. what should I avoid?

Are WD Blue SSDs reliable?

I'm asking because I'm building a new pc on a budget and I want an SSD for my boot drive and I narrowed it down to two options:
$140 - Samsung 960 EVO 250GB M.2 SSD 8gb/s
$130 - WD Blue SATA 500GB SSD 6gb/s

I thinking about getting the WD because it has more storage space.

Isn't MX300 about same price as the WD Blue?

double rank is nearly effectively 2 DIMMs as it uses both channels, user.
Even if you didn't know that already, the context of my post should made it clear that that was what I was pointing out.

Going from 1 DR to 2 DR on Intel will maybe be a 5-10% perf increase on the edge cases, not the 25%+ you can get from adding a second SR.
And Intel MC doesn't like 2 DR the same way AMD's does.

What the other user said, the MX300 is similar price and very very good. 95-99% as good as the 960 and one of the most reliable SSDs. WD Blue may be reliable but it's slow.

It's more about price points than brands. Cheap cards are loud and hot no matter which manufacturer you pick and expensive ones perform equally no matter which one you get.

You're comparing PCIEe SSD to SATA one. Why? They're intended for different use cases.

how easy is it to fuck up your hardware assembling your first PC? Is it fairly common?

double rank doesn't use both channels, it uses a single channel. The difference is just that it has memory modules on both sides, and therefore performs a bit differently from single rank.

Looking for some B350 board recommendations. Most reviews overall seemed really mixed.

LOL that's not what dual rank is.
Please educate yourself. You could have googled it or some shit instead of wasted people's time spreading misinformation, you dumb faggot.

I have a tomahawk coming in the mail, fingers crossed. From my research they're all really flakey. But supposedly the tomahawk is the best currently, might not last long.

That is what dual rank is, double sided and dual rank is the same thing.

I currently have a
>Sapphire Vapor-X R9 290 OC
It's a great card, but churns out heat like a furnace even during IDLE.
I heard the new RX580 has similar performance and is much more power efficient (less heat).
Would it be a waste for me to upgrade/sidegrade to it?

I was considering the GIGABYTE GA-AB350-GAMING 3 but it seems to be perpetually out of stock on newegg.

kill yourself.

This isn't an argument. You have no idea what you're talking about yet you keep repeating the same misinformation.

Yes, it'd be a bit of a waste. Vega will be even better perf/watt. Something like a 2.3-2.8x increase.

It should be at least twice as powerful as the RX580 yet less power usage. Though it depends whether they clock it for performance or a bit more efficiency. But the enterprise card at 1600MHz is 2.3-2.8x higher perf than the polaris enterprise card.

JUST WAIT (tm)

Dual rank is double sided ram, it means that the signal has to run an extra lap to get the information. For some reason this somehow increases the amount of data each trip can provide though, or something like that.

Are you sure you're not thinking of dual channel?

Can someone please recommend a good cooler with am4 support out of the box? I really do not want to wait for a bracket.