/pcbg/ - PC Building General

Post your component list; rate other anons'; ask questions in general.

>Assemble your parts list with price comparisons & compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com/

THEN state the PURPOSE of your PC & BUDGET. State COUNTRY if not USA.
List GAMES/SOFTWARE you use often. List resolution & hz if gaming.
Seeking build improvements? Clarify goal: lower price or improved specs?
ctrl+f to see if your question was answered already

>How to assemble a PC, select components & more. (somewhat outdated)
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC

CPUs:
>G4560 - budget builds (R5 1500x - generally all you need for 60fps with power to spare. No i5
>R5 1600 - best value for higher fps gaming & mixed usage; 1600x if you too lazy to OC
>i7-7700k - bad value but good for higher FPS; may have heat issues
>R7/Xeon/Threadripper/i9 - compute/Multitask/mixed use

Graphics:
>G4560 iGPU is fine for desktop stuff and very light game
>1050Ti for low budget. Drop settings if not Freesync/Gsync on newer games; RX560 if discounted RX570 4GB - 1080p@60+hz, running most maxed; older games at 144+hz
>RX580 8GB - 1440p@60+hz, inject SMAA & drop settings
>1060 - Generally outperformed by the RX 580 and GSync costs more; consider if AMD is not an option (ie CUDA/miners buying all RX570s)
>1070 - if on heavy sale-ish
>1080 - 1080p@100-144+hz maxed; 1440p at lower hz.
>1080Ti - 1440p@90-144+hz; 4k@60hz in SOME games, more at lower settings

General:
>READ PRODUCT REVIEWS to see if that cheap SSD/PSU or whatever is reliable
>Consider larger SSD-only for what you budget SSD+HDD combined. Add HDD later once needed
>NVMe aren't for faster OS boot. They're primarily for productivity/scratch disk/VMs
>Stop confusing any M.2 drive with NVMe. M.2 is a form factor
>mATX board + case is often cheaper
>1 SR DIMM is slower than 2 DIMMs

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/dxDRXH
relaxedtech.com/reviews/amd/wraith-max-and-wraith-spire-cooler/2
youtu.be/VNjkDoYZYjU
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/ZkTy2R
pcpartpicker.com/list/kgRPWX
twitter.com/AnonBabble

Anyone got any deals on HDDs? Looking for WD Reds for my server. 6TB or 8TB.

Looking to get a new monitor, i currently have a asa 23.9 inch ips one. Its alright but im feeling its too small, I like the way ips looks though, but theres so many options right now. Im looking to spend around $200 but $350 tops i dont mind deviating from that though. Looking to get a large monitor, not sure if i should get 27 inches or higher.

I dont game, i use it for graphics art as a hobby (so no $10k monitors for accuracy colour 1 billion colours) and for watching anime. Firstly, is freesync useful to me? i have an amd card but idk if its a useful feature outside of gaming.

Im considering a Acer G277HL 27" Full HD 4MS IPS LED Monitor because its so damn cheap ($220) for the size and ips, but then how good will the panel be? I know at that size you want to go into 2k territory. Should I go for a large 4k maybe? help please

and forgot to say if i didnt, australia

get blues and disable thaat one feature then you have reds. Barracuda server drives seem like a better choice though

212 Evo is not an upgrade.
It's virtually identical noise at 95W TDP to the Wraith Spire. It only cools better above that by making a stupid amount of noise.

It's $25 of savings. It says right there. That's like 6%.

Bullshit. Non-Fiji GCN don't shit themselves when something needs more VRAM like Nvidia cards. Tons of people are still using 3GB 7970s and 2GB 7870s fine in games that use 4.5GB or 3GB of VRAM respectively.
A card that weak won't make use of settings that put it at 4GB.
I'd say $90 is too much for a 2GB RX560, though. That should be like a $70 card.

I can't believe how many of you fucks have no fucking clue how VRAM and varying GPU architectures work and you spout the same bullshit misinformation every single fucking day.

>disable thaat one feature then you have reds
whaddaya mean, user?

well reds are meant to spin non stop to reduce wear and increase life, i cant remember what its called. reds are a jew move by wd.

what about blacks? are they worth the premium?

still looking for a case for my dual-mainboard machine.
any ideas?

Fuck I just bought the Tomahawk and Ryzen 5 too, it's not fair.

i have a black and two blues. The black runs loud but its faster. It has a longer warranty and is better binned. Get the blues if you have to choose wd, get the barracuda if you have any choice

did seagate improve their reliability recently? I got a 3TB barracuda about 4 years ago and it's about to self-destruct now according to smart.

Known shills to be careful of

>Crucial MX300
He'll claim the performance is exactly the same every post, however it's not, nor is crucial a reliable brand

>intel shill, mainly 7700k
mainly memers at this point but some are still blind, be vigilant. Often claim infinitely better gaming performance but in reality its often the exact same, only performs better in games optimised for intel.

Add to the list any you're aware of

the 3tb was the one seagate drive that ruined its rep. It was faulty because of floods, not because it was an actually shit drive, but they were retards for shipping it

If it makes you feel better, I got a 1600X, power supply, 2x16GB of RAM, pro 4 motherboard, and a CPU cooler for ~$450. 5 things and better things (except the motherboard) for about the same as those 3 things

>t. samsung shill

MX300 has the same 4.8 star rating on Amazon as the Samsung 850 Evo.
If it wasn't reliable, it would not have that rating.

how do hitachi or toshiba drives compare? I'm looking at the toshiba x300 6tb right now. are they any good?

sup Sup Forums, I'm thinking of building a pc.

pcpartpicker.com/list/dxDRXH

I started with an 1070 but changed that later to a 580 since I'm using a 1080p monitor and 1070 would be a bit overkill for that.
And since the mining industry put 470/480/570/580 out of stock; I'm planning to go with a 1060.

Is this build good, what would you improve keeping the $900 budget in mind?

Best sub 150 case on the market for silence and airflow ?

hitachi is or was the best, toshiba is alright too. Just get whichever is cheapest and not shit

>Inject SMAA with RX cards
How to?

What's colder? Blue or white?

purple

Google

white since its reflecting more wavelengths

There is one guy who shills Pentium and likes to downplay amd like crazy.

> you don't need that many cores unless your a faggot/YouTuber/pirate/whatever
> you don't need 64 pci lanes anyway
> you need special unoptanium ram for ryzen, Intel just werks
>amd crashes constantly and the benchmarks are lying
> Pentium is enough for most games anyway don't buy ryzen
> who cares about hedt people and business interests

He's a legit confirmed shill on Intel's payroll, pay heed to his bullshit. You'll know him when you see him.

Is the Wraith Spire as good as, say, the CM 212 Evo?

I know they're for completely different CPUs, but I'd like to get a general idea of the Wraith's ability.

Hell no.

It's ok but you won't be doing any serious overclocking with it.

I hit 86 celcius with a 1.3 vcore today in 5 minutes running small fftS, it is not good for anything but stock speeds.

Soon as my h7 bracket comes in it's getting replaced.

>wraith spire
>CPU
They're close enough that the 212 EVO isn't worth the money

At fan speed to cool 95W TDP, yes. Beyond that the 212 Evo gets loud.
This was already fucking explained a few posts back ctrl+f.

The 212 is miles better. Tests have already been done and the 212 is like 20/30C cooler. When the spire is hitting 80C the 212 will be 50/60.

relaxedtech.com/reviews/amd/wraith-max-and-wraith-spire-cooler/2

>212
>loud

No. I have one and it's really quiet even at 100% speed. I actually thought my fan was broken because I couldn't hear it over my 4 case fans when I was making a custom fan curve in bios

- Generally outperformed by the RX 580
last thing i read stated the newer 1060+ models with faster memory close this gap.
true or not?

The 6gb models are closer in performance to a 570, which is cheaper... if you can find one at retail.

Is AM4 a good upgrade path if I want to keep using the same motherboard for a couple years?
Earlier this year AMD claimed they will support the socket for their future CPUs but I haven't heard the latest rumors

youtu.be/VNjkDoYZYjU

Supposedly they'll stay with AM4 until 2020, at which point we'll probably be looking for next gen RAM anyway.

fugg looks like theres a 212 shill now. I have one, its loud as fuck, especially near 100%

No, you're just deaf.
At 100% fan speed the 212 Evo is loud.

No noise there.
And obviously no one recommends 4GHz on the stock one. 3.75-3.85 is usually good.
And if someone is overclocking to 4GHz, at least a Cryorig H7 or similar is recommended which cools just as well, or slightly better, at far lower noise.

problem is I want a quiet PC for once which rules out Radeon.

no it doesn't. it means you buy a different case dumbass. Like the be quiet! Dark Base 900

It's likely that AM4+ will come in 2019 or 2020 with the new CPUs compatible on either socket, but able to run DDR5 on AM4+ and maybe some other new features.
Same as how AM3 and AM3+ was, with AM3 technically supported for over 8 years.

Radeon Chill keeps things quiet.
My 7970 has always been quiet since I have an Artic Accelero on it, even when I ran it at 300+ watts and 1325MHz.

Thanks for the input, looks like that hasn't changed then.
I have to make a choice between a good MB and a cheap one so the socket support is kind of a big deal in case I want to upgrade the CPU later on

Nope. It's quiet. All my 4 case fans and my gpu are all louder than my processor. I can't even hear it under full load on my old heavily oc i5.

I like it.

What are the good SSD manufacturers

Are you high? The gtx 1060 is currently faster than the 480 and within 1% of a 580 give or take. The fucking gimped 3gb 1060 is faster than the 570, with outliers removed.

>which rules out Radeon.
no it doesn't.

samsung and kingston

>a 480 is somehow a 570

1060 6gb* is currently..

>he can't refute my points
>he's pathetic enough to spread misinformation in a thread made to help people, out of brand loyalty

End yourself

who are you quoting

>implying brand loyalty
found the Intel shill
My money goes to the best product for the money. Competition is good for the consumer.

Toshiba and HGST are the same thing now. But I agree on getting whichever is cheapest

Any one got on clues for this please.

>Built new AMD machine
>Will turn it's self off during GPU load.
>Have to unplug it and replug it to turn it back on
>Some times it just reboots instead
>Runs like a dream then suddenly drops when playing games or doing a GPU test

I've replaced literally everything but the hard drive and the case. I did a full windows 10 reinstall and I'm out of ideas at this point.

I'm considering picking up a small cheap HD to try to see if that fixes. But wondering if any one might have a clue. I've taken it to a repair shop and they couldn't find any problems with it or a way to resolve the crash.

I should add that heat isn't a problem, it's never going above 65 on anything. Power supply is fine.

>retard says rx 570 is comparable to a 1060 6gb in general gaming
>all evidence shows otherwise with the 1060 6gb being comparable to a 580
>retard gets called out for his obvious fanboyism
>retard starts calling someone who owns a r5 1600 an Intel shill when the topic isn't even about cpu's

I too only buy what's best for the money I pay hence why I have a 1600 and 1070. Call me a shill all you want but you're a fucking retard, and the real shill here.

What mid tower case would you recommend for good cable management?

You're saying you've swapped out the GPU and PSU and the problem persists?

basically why i said was, hitachi is wd and idk about toshiba if theyre still toshiba owned

I've swapped literally everything but the case and the hard drive. Different model GPUs, one which used to work fine in my old machine. Same with PSUs.

>intel 6700k
>enzotech extreme-x rev. a w/ 1156 mounting bracket
>4x 16gb crucial ddr4 ballistix
>asus sabertooth mark 1 z170

too lazy to type the rest

Was the repair shop able to replicate the crash?

Yes.

Updating the motherboard bios made it take longer to trigger but it still triggered. That's why I replaced it.

What do you mean by "gpu test"?

It might be your processor is overheating because it's known that most temperature readout programs have problems with ryzen with some giving way higher temps and some giving too low. The gaming reboot might not actually be gpu related but might be your processor ramping up and overheating. It's a long shot but it's worth checking out. Go into bios and set your cpu fan to 100% and try the games again and if it doesn't reboot or crash then you've find the issue.

Another long shot might be a ram issue. Try prime95 ram stress test or memtest (a bit more complicated as you have to run multiple instances).

Also if you have anything overclocked try reverting back to stock and overclocking each thing again one by one and testing it because something might be causing system stability which results in the pc shutting down to prevent any hardware breaking. It does sound like a psu problem though in all honestly. Make sure the connectors are properly plugged in and you're not using some shitty retarded molex to 6pin adapter or something.

Why not swap for the R5 1400 and putting that money into a 1070? Games are going to demand more and more in the future from your GPU? Up to you but that is what I would do if I had your budget.

>> MUH CORSAIR RAM
Swap to Team Elite and save a few dollars. Its RAM, it either works or it doesn't.

PSU is excellent, I personally prefer EVGA PSUS but SeaSonic is absolutely no slouch.

Motherboard is a bit iffy, I have built with it and the missing screw holes on the right means plenty of board flex if you need to remove and replug your ATX connector. I would swap to something else. If you aren't overclocking the MSI A320M Bazooka seems to be good for the price.

All up to you though.

Tried a few different GPU stress tests. Heaven, furmark and I can't recall the others.

I'll give the fan thing a try in a bit, it takes like an hour for it to cut in, where as it used to take about 15 minutes. I thought it might be CPU based so I switched that.

Nothing is overclocked, it's all stock. I've used two different PSUs, one I know is 100% functional as I used it for several years and never had an issue. No shitty adapters, everything is properly plugged in.

au.pcpartpicker.com/list/ZkTy2R
Best build i think, for gaming and streaming

this isn't funny

>gaming and streaming
>an i5
>spending more on RAM than CPU

You're joking, right?

Samsung, kingston

And some crucial and sadisk models aswell.
Look for the spec sheet and customer reviews

So your pc just turns off when running those tests?

Are you sure it's turning completely off or is it just black screening?

I had a gpu problem once where my card was faulty and wouldn't hold it's factory oc and it used to black screen. I'd have to actually turn my whole pc off and on again to get it working because pressing the mobo restart button would do nothing because the gpu had fucked itself somehow.

I'd highly recommend trying the memory test just to make sure it's not that, btw.

>mixing up the 400 series and the 500 series
they are not identical user.

Done memory tests and tried 2 sets of RAM.

It takes a while but yes, I used to be able to make it happen in 12 minutes but updating the motherboard bios makes it take 60-90 now.

At first it just died with a black screen and a beep. Now it just dies, the mother board LEDs stay on but everything else is just dead. Black monitors.

>60-80w more power drain under load
>radeon isnt dead in the noise department
wew

What 120mm case fans do people recommend these days? Last ones I bought were $20 silverstone ones that still work after 7 years, but have to be at pretty much max RPM or they click nowadays.

>>Why not swap for the R5 1400 and putting that money into a 1070?
I'm building this pc with compiling being the priority. But if I were building this for gaming mainly; yeah, I'd probably swap that.

>Swap to Team Elite and save a few dollars. Its RAM, it either works or it doesn't.
I'm going to check my options, maybe it'll help me to fix the price lower.

>>PSU is excellent, I personally prefer EVGA PSUS but SeaSonic is absolutely no slouch.
Sadly, SeaSonic does not ship to where I live, neither does Newegg. I'm afraid I might go with Corsair CS 550, I'm open for other suggestions.

I haven't give much thought to mobo, so I'll check and compare these two.

>power draw is somehow directly correlated to noise
it isn't user.

silverstone

Good to see you have put in more thought than most. That PC you specced should be a winner then.

Shame you can't get SeaSonic where you live Corsair PSU should be fine but it isn't as top teir as SeaSonic. Maybe try a local PC shop? Most will get the parts for you and a good one won't charge you a stupid premium for the privilege.

>power draw is not correlated to heat
>heat is not correlated to cooling
>cooling is not correlated to noise
hmmm

corsair when they started selling psus were seasonics

Might be a gpu clock issue or simply a case of a faulty bios update. Try downclocking your gpu if the other tests fail.

Might also simply be a faulty mobo

depends.
3 pin or 4 pin?

The level of stupid shown here... Lets stream at 480p at 30fps and STILL get frame drops.

I don't know whether to rage or cry.

It can't be faulty mobo as I replaced it. I've used 2 different mobos on 2 different bios.

you know absolutely nothing.

Noctua or Phanteks

What gpu is it? Have you also replaced it?
Based on what you've said, testing the cpu with 100% fan or downclocking the gpu back to stock speeds and hoping it's one of those is your best bet.

might want to point out the flaw in my flawless logic instead of replying with empty phrases like you got nothing to say.

Yeah but they have switched in recent years to lower tier PSU manufacturers, especially in their cheaper models. I believe their top of the line models are still SeaSonics.

i just get seasonics, but i still have a hx520 that still works

pcpartpicker.com/list/kgRPWX
Build for gaming and music production.
I don't really play modern AAA titles, mostly strats, Sims, and the occasional rpg.
Would it be a terrible idea to get a 1050 ti and bump up to the Ryzen 1700?

tell me about your prod setup so i can recc better

Stop.

Get Ryzen 5. Either the 1500X or the 1600.

16GB of >2800MHz RAM

I'd personally go with 250GB SSD to save some bucks.

Also, isn't your PSU very expensive? You could be fine with a 550W one, and that case has grrat cable management, so maybe a semi modular can be cheaper?

The stock cooler should be enough for medium OC, the cooler you picked is way overkill, get something decent for $60 if you want to do some respectable OC, then again is your money, if you want that fancy AIO go for it. Just don't spend a dispropportionate amount... like paying more for RAM than for the CPU.

Nothing serious, I just record preproduction tracks to send off to the mixer and mess around with my own mixes. I use a Focusrite interface with Reaper and some vst plug-ins for drums and guitar tone. Probably upgrade to 32gb of ram in the future.

Corsair makes some nice ones, and sometimes they come in bundles.
Just be sure to get the right model for the need, AirFlow or StaticPressure.