/pcbg/ - PC Building General - Intel housefire edition

>Assemble your parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>How to assemble a PC, select components & more (kind of outdated)
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php?title=Build_a_PC

If you want help:
>State the budget for your build (and country if not the USA).
>List games/software you use often, as well as your monitor resolution + refresh rate.
>Clarify your goal for build improvements: lower price or improved specs?

CPUs:
>G4560 - Budget builds (R5 1400 - if you can't afford better or specifically need 8 threads but not a very powerful CPU
>R5 1500x - All you really need for 60fps with power to spare; Don’t get an i5.
>R5 1600 - Best value for higher fps gaming / mixed usage; Get a 1600x if you don't OC
>i7 7700k - Bad value but best144hz CPU
>R7/Xeon/Threadripper - Compute/Multitask/mixed use; Not required for just gaming.

GPUs:
>Integrated CPU Graphics - Desktop stuff and very light games
>RX 560 and GTX 1050Ti - Lower end budget cards, drop settings on newer games
>RX570 - 1080p@60hz at high, running most maxed older games at 144+hz.
>RX580 and GTX1060 6GB - 1080p@60hz maxed, 1440p@60hz at lower settings; Go for the RX580 if you can.
>GTX 1070 - 1080p@144hz /1440p@60hz at high
>GTX 1080 - 1080p@144hz / 1440p@60hz maxed, 4k@60hz in a few games; Probably the highest end card you need for 1080p/1440p.
>GTX 1080 Ti - 1440p@144 hz and 4k@60hz maxed/high in many games; You're kind of going overboard with this one.
>AMD GPUs are suffering a lack of stock and Nvidia a rise in price thanks to e-currency miners

General:
>ALWAYS LOOK AT PRODUCT REVIEWS!
>Always consider an SSD. Try buying a large SSD for what you'd pay for your SSD+HDD combined, and add a HDD later
>NVMe SSDs aren't for a faster OS boot, they're for productivity/scratch disk/VMs. NVMe and M.2 are not the same thing, M.2 is a form factor.
>The Ryzen lineup comes with exceptionally good stock coolers. (with the exception of the 1600X) consider using them over any sub 35USD cooler.

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=41qC3w3UUkU
pcpartpicker.com/list/GYVqM8
youtube.com/watch?v=RjthLoGn0ts
pcpartpicker.com/list/4jPyd6
pcpartpicker.com/list/W8FWvV
pcpartpicker.com/list/HQDCWX
pcpartpicker.com/list/RN6nBP
pcpartpicker.com/list/H74tFd
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

NO MORE 1060s OR 580s!

Speaking of Intel house fires, why did my old full power Phenom II X4 965 at 125w run cooler under loads than my brother's stock i5-4670k with a beefier cooler under a similar load?

WITH JEWS, GPU LOSE

fan profiles are a thing.

VMAX

AMD used to be 70C
Intel always been 100C

A little bird just informed me that there will be a restock of RX cards at the end of this month. Get ready.

Etherium crash when?

fuck off

go erp in the ff14 general or something.

it's irrelevant if they only stay on stock for half an hour.
if the miners don't get them all, then the scalpers will

So if I disabled pagefile and ran bf1 and it crashed while loading a map that means I need more RAM right?

I have 8gb but apparently it's not enough?

Never. GPU will go back to normal when it becomes vulnerable to ASIC.

You need a pagefile even if you have enough RAM. That is just how some programs work. Set it to the minimum is better than not having a pagefile.

>I disabled pagefile
don't do this.

I know I'm just trying to pinpoint my stuttering problem in games so I temporarily removed it to see how much RAM I was using.

It gave low memory warning and crashed when pagefile was disabled. Does this mean I need more than 8gb?

This is a stupid way to monitor RAM usage. A better method is to play the game and then bring up task manager to see peak RAM usage over a duration of time and see if that is the issue.

Depending what the hell you're doing in the background user, probably.

2gb of ram is being used at idle. Besides that no programs besides BF1 were running.

Do this Bring up task manager right now and go to the performance tab. And monitor it yourself.

>2gb of ram is being used at idle
Well cleaning up your install should help. Fresh Windows 10 takes like 1.2GB.

I just asked in sqt, but I figure it belongs here more-

Built PC, on first boot the CPU fan comes on and light-up logo on video card comes on, but I get no video signal from and port on either the card or motherboard. What's going wrong?

plug in the 6-pin

I've got two 6 pins plugged into the video card

Okay did that for 5 minutes

this is msi afterburner and task manager says 7.4 out of 7.9

Definitely need more ram right?

Which build pcbg?

Fight

Ryzen

Start pulling parts until it POSTS
pull gpu then ram then HDDs until it posts

Does it happen to take a 6 and an 8 and you just used two sixes?
Other than that, clear CMOS, reseat card, RMA.

ive never heard of those ram or ssd manufactures before for the ryzen side

check CPU power cable
check RAM seating
sometimes it isn't the GPU

Yeah, this. I didn't see this was a new build and not just a new GPU.
Pull the graphics card and try integrated without it.

youtube.com/watch?v=41qC3w3UUkU

Go away.

So now what, fall back on two previous generation GPUs like the Nvidia 970s or AMD 380s/460s? Don't tell me those are gone too.

and if he doesn't have integrated? such as a Ryzen?
what if it's his RAM that's the problem? They don't come overclocked out the box and sometimes cause problems
there was that one user who had a problem with his 3000MHz RAM, if he put in both sticks the computer wouldn't POST properly, but with one stick it POSTed

980's and 480's.

I'm pretty illiterate when it comes to building computers, and I was trying to put some research into budge PC building, for something at least around a $600 range, and I found this build put up on a site.

The thing is, I'm an amateur dev and hope to use my new PC for things like unreal engine 4 and running more demanding games. Will this build shown be capable of running more recent games, and running demanding game engines like Unreal?

Is it worth to buy a rx 460 for a 1440x900 resolution? My 2 year old r7 265 died, and I can only find this rx on stock. Still have a Phenom II 965 though and I was expecting, a least, 60 fps on games.

go pentium instead of 13, read the op
or go an extra 50 bucks and get the 1400 ryzen

Those are gone too. And the 980 is so not worth it compared to a 1070.

According to the Post LEDs on the motherboard, the CPU is the issue. Am I toast?

Since you're actually going into programming on a budget go with ryzen.

Plenty good enough for that res.

>200 dollars for a 3gb 1060

what motherboard is this and post an image

Thanks for the tip, I'll go ahead and spring for a 1400 ryzen then.

Why's that surprising? Can you get it for less or something?

Yeah. Consider getting more RAM.

Asus STRIX Z270i board, I can't see any obviously bent pins

If you're going to get a 1060, don't get the 3GB model. Get the 6GB of try finding a RX580 or 480. (AMD will give you more futureproof fetures such as better DX12/Vulkan support)

Don't get the core i3, get the Pentium G4560, it's basically a cheaper i3. virtually the same performance, and it's a newer generation (7th)

Otherwise, your build is fine.

460 would actually be overkill for that resolution user.

>Why's that surprising? Can you get it for less or something?
I assumed it around 150 dollars but looking on amazon/newegg I guess the miners got to them because they are all like 600 dollars

>try finding a RX580 or 480.
It's not hard to find one, it's just they are 450+ right now

Bought my 1060 for $240, could I sell it for a profit now?

This is gonna be straight up for gaming. How does it look ?
pcpartpicker.com/list/GYVqM8

Are these literally the worst PC fans ever made? Are they the most overrated fans ever made?

youtube.com/watch?v=RjthLoGn0ts

All the reviews are like 'dude they move so much air xddd', 'dude they're so quiet xddd'. They don't mention the fact that the motors are the noisiest garbage on the planet. Right down to the 500rpm or so minimum speed they'll spin at they emit a fucking annoying tapping noise, no matter what rpm they are at the tapping is always louder than the air they are moving. They are fucking pointless.

Also somewhat relatedly, has anyone tried the new Corsair ML fans? I'd get some but they are PWM only because of how they work, and I don't have enough PWM headers.

Just trying to play anything and everything desu

ebay says probably, but they fucking suck to sell through

You have money to burn. Just get the 1700x if you are going to get the Noctua anyway.

Thank me later
pcpartpicker.com/list/4jPyd6

It will do good but it's a lot of wasted money

>ebay says probably, but they fucking suck to sell through
How so?

>1 x 8GB vs 2 x 4GB

They get a percentage cut for what you sell and still make you pay for shipping, despite saying that the price to list is 0. I have to pay 40 dollars for something that was sold for 409. Minus the postage, so I got around 390 before the 'you listed something and actually sold it' fee

Thanks! This looks pretty good, but again, I have no idea about computer parts. Glad to see someone actually rework the build but keep it at a reasonable price.

My 1080ti has GPU sag.
Do I have to worry about GPU sag?
Or is it just aesthetics?

Aesthetics.

Be glad you don't have a triple slot 7970.

aesthetics unless it rips itself free of it's slot (it won't)
if you care about it a lot you can gpu bolster for it which aren't that expensive

two dimm slots I think

What's the recommended extra PSU wattage? 100 more than expected? 50%? Does that include overclocking demands?

Why would you think your overclocking wouldn't be expected?

Why is that ?

That heatsink is pretty obnoxious for just air, I wouldn't pay more than 50 bucks for a heatsink for myself though
Don't get that case. It has god awful airflow and you'll choke your parts to death.

So I double checked, no bent pins, the CPU tray was aligned correctly, lever arm was down tight, cleaned and reapplied paste, pulled CMOS and waited for discharge.

Still showing solid red for CPU. Quick google shows a lot of results of this for ASUS boards.

Now what? Without another board or another CPU how do I find out which is the issue?

My final version, now it has a faster dual slot RAM. It's $620, but much faster than the initial i3 build you made.

pcpartpicker.com/list/W8FWvV

> 4 cores /8 threads
> 4GB 1050ti
> 8GB 2666MHz DDR4
> 120GB SSD + 1TB 7200rpm HDD
> Corsair 450W
Pretty decent build tbqh, you can't get any better than this, I assure you!

Good night!

see:

Thank you! I can understand upping the price a bit, when I posted it here I knew that it would need some revision, to be honest I'm surprised that it went up by so little while still getting a performance boost.

>Corsair 450W
Sketchy asf tho

R7 1700 doesn't offer any advantage over an R5 1600 for gaming, you don't need a NH-D15 to cool any Ryzen CPU, x370 is pointless if you don't need the extra PCIe lanes, 3200MHz memory for gaming only benefits you if you have high refresh rate screen, you can find cheaper 500GB SSDs that perform only slightly slower, the build doesn't use 750w, buying two 140mm fans when your case already has three is also pretty pointless

If you still wanna go NH-D15 then get a D15-S to ensure you have enough clearance for your RAM otherwise you might have to unscrew the heatsinks or put the fan higher up (which is what i did)

Still is 26USD WITH the 80plus bronze, i don't think a cheaper one is possible

>while still getting a performance boost.
Not for gaming as he downgraded to a 1050ti

PSU and cheaper don't go together.
Might as well get diablotek then.

You can't. Call the retailer and see how they want to do the RMA. They may know there's an issue with that mobo.

I assume that's not going to drastically lower the amount of performance though? Like, I'm not looking for some godlike PC capable of running everything at 60fps, I understand the limitations of doing a budget build, so that'll at least still reasonably run a modern game without making the graphics start chugging?

To put it bluntly: according to Part Picker, my build weighs in at ~550W, and I've got a 650 PSU. Is that going to be enough? Do I need more of a buffer?

You'll be fine with that build, user, I'd take it over the original one you had any day.

Good enough. Just don't OC anything over the top

Alright thank you for explaining, I'll trying making some adjustments.

Well, don't expect maxing games at all (unless old ones or e-sports)
The diffference between a 1060 and 1050ti is pretty big.

Well I certainly don't expect max settings, though it'll be better than what I'm currently forced to use by default.

At least with this, I can just wait a couple months and if necessary, get the 1060 and to replace the one in this build.

best ryzen 1600 build to watch on youtube to learn how to put together all the components? I cant figure out psu cables and what mobo standoffs are

Well apparently there's a pretty widespread issue with this board that involves the CPU light coming on and refusing to Post from cold boot, somehow linked to XMP and the RAM. I tried booting both with one stick and with no RAM to no avail.

Read your manual

pcpartpicker.com/list/HQDCWX

to play GTAV and Dark Souls

Buy it faggot. Buy it and post the picture here.

Good build. Nothing wrong with it

even Intel graphics maxes out e-sports user, the 1050ti will get 60fps full hd on most games easily. just turn off AA.

>even Intel graphics maxes out e-sports user
That's not what my personnal experience indicated me at all

wait for threadripper + Vega

I mean, Iris Pro maxes out LoL and Dota at 1080p

LoL can't be compared with Dota engine wise. LoL is a piece of shit cobbled together that even my toaster can make out.

If you're gonna go all out might as well go ALL OUT
pcpartpicker.com/list/RN6nBP

If you are going ALL OUT you might want to get Kikesync monitors for your Nvidia SLI 1080ti over Freesync.

I know the whole point was upgradability, but
>you can't get any better than this
caught my interest, so I couldn't resist.

pcpartpicker.com/list/H74tFd

The SSD is only placeholder. I know where you can get a $50 Sandisk one, but if you want to stick with pcpartpicker exclusively then Kingston will do. I could have gotten a cheaper HDD but you picked WD for a reason, I assume, so I stuck with your pick. The guy can get a cheaper case for under $25 if he doesn't care about the N200.

I call it the "I'm The Type to Wait for Price Drops" machine.