>Headphone purchase advice:
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For sub-$50 headphones and IEMs, check out the infographic in >Sup Forums wiki headphone FAQ:
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wauw
Nice penguin.
Give me a headphone that will stop me from using my speakers all the time.
Sennheiser HD 600.
Already have it and it doesn't even compare.
HD600
None.
Good monitors in a well-treated room will almost always BTFO of a vast majority of headphones.
Then nothing will compare to your speakers because the HD 600 is the peak of headphone performance.
It's funny how people like to say that headphones are more cost effective than speakers but ~$300 (5" woofers) worth of studio monitors absolutely blow most headphones out. Add in a 10" studio sub for another $300 (or don't need it if monitors have 8" drivers) and you get perfect sound for the entire range. Here's FR for some cheap 8" studio monitors.
>that terribly misleading y-axis scale
Stop trying to exploit my virginity to sell your product.
The thing is headphones will be good regardless of where you are but that's nowhere near the same for speakers. Great speakers in a shitty room will likely be worse than (or comparable to) low-tier headphones.
I do agree with some of what you are saying though. I never understood why people spent more than $1k on headphones when they could just get some godtier speakers like the Adam A7.
Hey, all. Could use a hand.
I'm crawling out from a rock and building myself a PC for the first time in 16 years. I'm looking for a good set of headphones for gaming, but nothing overly fancy.
>Budget: ~100USD (flexible)
>Purpose: Gaming, mostly
>Reqs: Over-the-ear, wired, surround sound
>What do I need for surround sound headphones?
>Do I need a DAC/Soundcard?
>Are built in mics good, or should that be separate?
I know it's silly, but this is important to me, so I would appreciate any advice.
Most people don't live alone, and a lot of people who do live alone have neighbors in the same building.
HD558
For mic, mod it to accept a V-Moda BoomPro: youtube.com
Because that's actually raw data unlike what you get with shitty headphone measurements. Here's more along the lines of what you're used to seeing. Same speakers.
How loud do you expect to crank up your speakers? Unless you live in an apartment complex with paper thin walls, I really don't see why people bring this up so much. I live in an apartment and I have speakers and I've never had any complaints for noise. Obviously I don't turn it up to obscene levels but comfortable listening levels isn't going to have your neighbors want to murder you.
Though if you don't live alone then yeah I understand. That's tough.
Funny, I don't see 15 to 27 dB deviations between 70 Hz and ~150 Hz on this graph, but I do on
I think most people like to crank music up really loud, at the very least for short periods of time, at the very least every now and then, whether it be with headphones or speakers.
It gets a lot harder with a sub or if you want to listen to music later at night.
>What do I need for surround sound headphones?
Razer Surround. It's free.
>but I read it's spyware
Block Synapse in your firewall after creating an account and logging in once. Problem solved.
Do not buy surround headphones. They are all shit. Buy good headphones and use a software solution for surround.
Literally laffin!
Also, HD558 will not need a DAC/Soundcard.
>tfw the K240DFs I've been using for some seven years started failing last night
Now I need a new pair of headphones and I'm broke.
This looks great, thank you all so much :)
Are speakers allowed here?
Feel free to refute his post.
The burden of proof is on you to prove it's the supposed "peak of headphone performance"
How do I turn my room into a well-treated one?
yes
got my m560, pretty nice, amazing build quality!
Just search google for "acoustic treatment". There's a lot of DIY guide. If you have a lot of money, I'm sure you can even get some pros to do it for you.
>HD558
isnt this discontinued?
Yes, but a lot of resellers still have plenty of stock left. They're much cheaper than they were before they were discontinued, so get 'em while they're hot.
huh, realistically, all it takes is a counterexample to prove false. Can you?
This is the ideal full-sized headphone. You may not like it, but this is what peak performance looks like.
Beautiful!
Idol trash is going to sleep.
What's your setup like, user?
I kinda agree with this guy.
I ripped apart the Passive crossover on a pair Tannoy Mx2 a decade ago and drive them with hardware 24 96 behringer digital crossovers and eq and programed my own curves and time correction with a measure mic - nothing comes close - literally a hologram and i resample higher birate rips in real time with j river media centre.
For me - bang for buck open headphones are a meme. Give me proper hifi at home and and 24 bit DAP and Kz iems on the move. Can't ride a bike with cans.
>24 bit meme
>muh monitors
>listens to weeb shit with hd600
what a waste of good headphones.
>24 bit
>meme
Stay mad and hold onto your butt
I just listened to 32bit/768khz in the park thisafternoon...
>not 64 bit
get a load of this pleb
Wow it must be summer time
>one upping an engineer fag
64 bit is for internal processing - flac can't even do 32 bit - .wv wave pack can't do 64bit you fucking nimrod
>32bit
>vinyl which has a theoretical maximum dynamic range of 80dB (more likely closer to 60dB)
:^)
you need a 64 bit cpu to decode 64 bit audio
24bit and higher Vinyl rips sound great because they are often from a pure analogue signal chain with very conservitive mastering - the dynamics aren't hammered to shit like pretty much every modern remaster
This isn't a technical signal noise argument. It's a human factors argument first and second one of pure source availability.
Out side of the big acts you won't find 24 hi def releases of most old material outside of the vinyl rip torrent community. It simply does not exist in an official capacity.
I am approaching 3tb of hi def rips - flac wv ape DSD - it's great - the availability of proper source material makes owning a proper hifi and dap worthwhile
Some people don't get it - like my friend with a megabuck full Naim system. His Naim CD2 power supply was worth more than my car - but it's 16 bit !
This # 1 a human factors argument nuThere are even plenty of unofficial master tape rips out there if you know where to look
Then there's no reason to not use 16bit vinyl rips, especially when the noise floor is a ~maximum~ of 80dB below the signal.
>inb4 'muh dithering'
No. It's not like that. It's internal mathematics so you don't discard information when you digitally chans the volume.
It's great. The 90's was so shit back then If you lowered the volume 6db digitally in a 16 bit space you threw away 1 bit of information. Internal 64bit processing stops this. Best thing to happen to digital audio you probably never have heard about.
T. Signals guy
...
I'm looking for a pair of wireless headphones to use with my PS3/4 and PC.
The set should be closed and feature a microphone. Budget is about 100-150€. For the record I have separate headphones for listening to music, so this will be used entirely for video games.
Either the PS4 Gold headset or the Corsair Void Wireless.
I'm looking for speakers, at the moment I'm looking at Mackie CR3 vs Alesis Elevate 5 which are the same price for in my country (NZ $250). Not keen on going any higher in price. Vendors seem reluctant to post here.
Any suggestions?
Also the mackie's colours suck ass.
you but dt 770 and a real microphone
I have 250€ to buy an amp/DAC combo. The choices i've already looked at are the O2+ODAC and Schiit stack (non-uber). Either will set me back about 230-260€.
Which one would you recommend or would you even recommend something else? Maybe FiiO, Audioengine or whatever else is there?
Also, do i really need a DAC? My PC probably won't be an issue due to ALC1220 sound chip but my chinkpad will very likely be an issue.
I get this annoying popping noise when (dis)connecting the 3.5 and some headphones like my Monks have retarded static on my laptop whereas on my PC they are dead silent.
anyone interested in DAC1541?
I am looking for a replacement for the JVC HA-FX35 "Marshmallow" earphones. Anything good sounding in a similar price range would be appreciated. The cable coating has split after a couple years of abuse.
Happy to pay a little extra if braided cables are worth the money. Prefer something that lasts rather than having to replace frequently.
For years I have been converting any music I acquire into .mp3, including FLAC files. Is it time to get over my autistic obsession with consistency or should I keep going MP3 only?
Suggest me something like Audio-Technica ATH-TAD300, but with external noise isolation. Max price $150. Wired (maybe wireless with little or no latency and an ability to go wired), not in-ear, rock/electronic/alternative music, built-in mic recommended.
give up mp3s, it's time for lossless, harddisk GB/price rises every year.
I want to lick her legs
320kbps is sufficient for everyone.
Dac does help but for 100 headphones not much. A cheap amp would help more but still not needed.
Look at kz for cheap good sound
what do we think about ath-m50x? i got a pair and i'm wondering if it was a good purchase
>ath-m50x
ath-R70x is better
I'd say go with an NFB-11, which is discounted at $299 + shipping for the next week because of the high volume of orders, but that's a bit above your budget. It's superior to even the Schiit stack uber. If you can't afford it, it's worth it to save up a bit more. If you need something right now, go with the standard Schiit stack, Fulla 2, or FiiO E10K. Don't get an O2.
massive mistake buying the m50x
>NFB-11
That's almost 350€ with shipping, that's 100 more than i planned and i actually don't plan on buying right now, it's rather in 1-2 month after i've been to Berlin to some hifi shops and potentially bough the HD600 or whatever.
It's also my first amp/DAC so idk if it's really necessary to spend this amount of money.
>Don't get an O2.
Why? I only read good reviews about it, desu this is my favourite option because it's smaller size, price and availability (Head'n'HiFi Switzerland). What's wrong with it?
fulla 2, schitt stack or nfb 11 are pretty much endgame tier
anything more is pure placebo
>pretty much endgame tier
>audio-dg
Just read they offer 10 years of warranty. Since when do chinks offer warranty, are thse nips in disguise?
Anyways. I don't plan on getting anything higher than Schiit stack or O2+ODAC or maybe this NFB-11 thing although it's more than i'd like to spend.
Now, what's wrong with the O2?
>Not using a floating point master.
>muh fidelity
They're actually made from nip parts from what I know.
NFB-11 is basically the only solid state amp and DAC you'd ever need for just about any headphone on the market. Or for powered monitors or tube amp you might buy in the future, you can also use it as your dedicated DAC/pre-amp. The way I see it, it's like saving money in the long run. Anything past that price range would probably just be venturing into audiophoolery territory.
If you need something cheaper that you can just replace later on, pick up a Fulla 2 or something similar.
>Now, what's wrong with the O2?
It was okay back when it was designed in 2011, but the design hasn't gone anywhere in the past 6 years and is just a poor choice compared to what you can get around the same price range nowadays.
Those are some really nice...headphones....
I'd be glad to put those beautiful headphones around my head.
Schiit stack. Higher spec'd and much better in reviews.
Also, the options thing in O2 is outright enraging.
Will using this pccasegear.com
No. It'll be just fine.
If it was usb2, a non-powered hub might introduce issues if other devices use power.
But usb3? Plenty of power.
Seems they use some Toshiba parts for power etc. but i haven't read or seen anything about nip caps. Should be ok though, after all it's not the PSU i'll OC on.
>The way I see it, it's like saving money in the long run
>past 6 years and is just a poor choice compared to what you can get around the same price range nowadays
Sound reasonable. This limits my choices to the Schiit Fulla 2, Schiit Modi+Magni 2 (still non-uber) and the audio-gd NFB-11 or whatever else is recommended AND available because availability can be an issue in EU compared to US.
IF I was to get the NFB-11 as import from China, are there any upgrades I should consider? They have 6 of them listed here: audio-gd.com
>the options thing in O2 is outright enraging
What do you mean, hi/lo gain switch?
No. Things like if you want the power to be in the back, you pay extra. Or if you want the thick kind of headphone jack, vs the tiny one.
I was drunk last night and looked into the amp briefly. I'm pretty sure the whole inside is japanese from what I remember. Seems like a great amp either way.
>IF I was to get the NFB-11 as import from China, are there any upgrades I should consider? They have 6 of them listed
Those 6 "upgrades" you're looking at are actually the improvements over the previous model, which was this: audio-gd.com
That's also the one I own. Those upgraded parts don't cost extra. The only upgrade you can get for the NFB-11.28 is the one TCXO for the DAC, which you can see if you click "custom option". It's a clock upgrade to reduce jitter, which may or may not be placebo, but it's $20 and might make a slight difference. I got the two TCXOs with mine, I just figured I may as well so I don't have to worry about it later on, but it's up to you.
True, that's kinda stupid. I'd have to pay 10€ just for the 6.3mm jack, that's retarded.
Don't recognize the caps but the amp and audio-gd seem trustworthy to me. I'm no expert but that's the impression i'm getting.
If no upgrades are required maybe i'll get the NFB-11 although at least 100€ more expensive. This should be the only amp/DAC i'll ever need and with the 10 year limited warranty it should not die on me and if it does i have the warranty.
>are actually the improvements over the previous model
Figured as much. The chink english and the 97USD for the 2nd one confused me quiet a bit.
Agree on the $20(18€) upgrade. If i'm going to spend this amount i can spend some 20 bucks more at that point. I'll still have to decide between this and the Schiit stack. It's over 100€ with shipping and 19% VAT. Fuck those EU kikes, import taxes are theft.
Just curious, what headphones do you have or are you using with your NFB (>inb4 HD600)?
Also, source on pic, please?
>Still no proof
Lmao. Now quit shilling, silly goy!
>It was okay back when it was designed in 2011, but the design hasn't gone anywhere in the past 6 years and is just a poor choice compared to what you can get around the same price range nowadays.
Unless the hearing ability of the human ear has changed, the O2/ODAC should still be transparent. Suggesting you can hear a difference between that and any other transparent DAC/amp is audiophoolery.
Phillips SHP9500 is on sale for $50. I really don't need it I have a DT990 and HyperX cloud but its so tempting. Great deal for anyone that needs budget headphones though
the pads on my k240 are starting to wear off, what replacements does Sup Forums recommend?
Those sound better than DT990. It actually has midrange. Also obviously better than your shitty retard gaming headset.
beyersremorse
takstar pro 80s are great headphones and dt990s($120) sound better than everything at $200 and under. You should try to not be so angry!
>takstar pro 80s are great headphones and dt990s($120) sound better than everything at $200 and under.
huehuehue
>he bought ~$100 headphones
>they're not the ISK HD-99999999
laugh
everyone point and
laugh
Can anyone tell me the huge listening difference between an audio interface and a DAC? I know the DAC might offer more headroom/volume, but if volume is not an issue for you already, would it even be worth getting a DAC if you already have a good audio interface? At their core they are similarly constructed right?
> If found quality problems please don't directly comment on the difference after the purchase, or it will not be any after sale service.
well i'm convinced.
If the interface is transparent, then you don't need a separate DAC. The headphone out on them is generally shit though so I'd still take the line outs to a headphone amp.
>transparent
What does that mean?
No audible coloration. As in "pure" sound.
Lmao. Your shilling isn't subtle, user.