/mkg/ - Mechanical Keyboard General

/mkg/ - Unicomp SSK Edition

>Buyer's template:
pastebin.com/33S1gVkG
>Where to Buy:
pastebin.com/8Yku80VL
>FAQs:
pastebin.com/M5w7QtKp
>Keyset wiki
keypuller.com (web.archive.org/web/20161101152119/http://keypuller.com/)

previous thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

kbdfans.myshopify.com/collections/keyboard
mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2098
mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2108
amazon.com/DREVO-84-Key-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01K4GXJMA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501686052&sr=1-1&keywords=drevo gramr
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

Why is the magicforce so popular? Should I get it as my first mechanical keyboard?

I'd like to get something white/aluminum.

Oh shit. Is that a modded uni board or did they do a limited run of ssk's?
If it's a mod then it looks pretty damn good.

>cheap
>above average build quality
>several different form factors from 65% to full size
>comes in a bajilion different switches from goate/outemu, gateron, cherry, and at one point even zealios.

Update from previous thread. I have found a source for japanese non-dyesub keycaps. Now I have to buy them somehow. I've sent the email to the company. If I hear back I'll let you guys know how it works out.

pic unrelated.

Its a mod. The instructions are in deskthority

Are they double shot or pad printed? I don't mind if its ABS, as long as its not pad printed.

I really, really wish Unicomp would just produce this.

Ah, I figured. Ive thought about trying to do that mod for a while.
I have a spare model M laying around, I think I'll look into that guide. Thanks.

doubleshots.
pbt (I'll never buy abs again)

cost is unreal too. I've seen it listed for around $30 USD. I'll be happy if I get it shipped for $60 in total. We'll see how it goes.

Good luck user. Keep us posted, I'm interested.

Link? I could only find the guys blog about doing it.

Hello guys, my first post here, so let's hope this goes well ;)

Here it is:

It only cost me 8£ brand new. Why is it good you ask? I shall tell you.

Well, first of all: this keyboard is from Logitech, which is undoubtedly the best keyboard manufacturer today.

It is a rather common keyboard, yes; but because it is a Logitech, somehow it doesn't feel cheap. It's like the brand itself makes a crappy keyboard turn into a great one. I don't know, Logitech has always made me feel comfortable with cheaper products.

The keys are superbly well distributed, and your fingers won't touch the surrounding keys like some other ones I've tried. The keys are also not very soft, nor very hard to press down on. You know, this keyboard makes it just right, so that you can actually take advantage of the impulse that the rebounding keys give you.

This keyboard makes you feel like gravity is actually working WITH you, rather that against you.

Another thing I absolutely love about it, is the space bar. It is just the right size, and not too small or too big like on some other crappy keyboards from other manufacturers. The space bar is the most balanced key in the whole keyboard, it sits right at the center, and you can actually use it without looking at the keyboard. I mean, that's just brilliant design.

It's an USB keyboard. This makes it perfect for use with modern computers, and even laptops and netbooks. No more using that old crappy PS/2 port. We're in 2017, people.

I could be here all day, but in the end, I just wanted to share with you my experience with this marvelous piece of peripheral engineering.


I recommend this keyboard to anyone.

>Budget
Location (continent at least)
US
>Preferred switch type
Not sure. Tried blues and not sure I like them. A little too hard to press down in casual typing/gaming.
>Layout
ANSI I guess.
>Form factor
No preference. I want media keys though (vol and play/pause).
>Backlight
RGB
>Previous/current keyboards
Used chiclet styles for years and years. Bought a Leopold FC750R with blues and just not really feeling it. Lack of media keys and the pressure I need to press down to type are kinda hurting my hands. Maybe I just need to invest in an ergonomic keyboard tray? Not sure.

Should I bolt mod my Unicomp 104? Is it just a reliability improvement or does it make it feel better to type on?

There are all sorts of mods.

No. The keys get stiff after a few months of good use. The space bar WONT STOP FUCKING SQUEAKING.
These two are a big enough problem that it overshadows all the positives about it. It comes so fucking close to being a 10/10, but ends up being a 3/10 with glaring flaws.

Link to set plz

where

He's lying. Its laser etched sub legends, but at least its not pad printed.

On the subject if unicomp, here is my slightly dirty unicomp battleship

How come your mom lets you have all those F keys?

you soudn like a fga

I heard making a Model M SSK is as easy as cutting that shit up then folding the membrane over, why does that guy's guide say a bunch of shit about wiring?

>Good luck user. Keep us posted, I'm interested.
yep, will do.

btw, here's the best pic of the set I could find. One thing I realized right away is that whole bottom row is gonna be unusable for my current keyboard. Ctrl, Alt, Win, Spacebar... they're all JIS dimensions.

I don't have the pic of the right side but I presume it's ISO enter, kana key etc. I can basiclaly forget about fitting that part as well.

But alphas, numpad, arrows, "system" keys are all standard on JIS keyboards (from my research anyway).

Will it be worth the trouble? I think so. I'll find some other cheap black PBT set with no legends and just pair it up.

they use really rattly stabilizers though

it's a jap manufacturer that lists what they make in a fucking giant-ass PDF file. It felt like it was from 2001 (but the file is their 2016 catalog).

I managed to find it after I paid some girl on Fiverr to translate a bunch of keyboard terms for me into Japanese. That helped me find this plastics company. I then asked her to translate a page from this PDF and then translate my email to japanese because I bet they don't speak a word of English.

If I manage to buy it, I'll let you know the email and how to order it. Will I get a reply this week? Who the fuck knows.

Sit tight. I'll have an update maybe tomorrow evening.

I think it'll be worth it. It's something somewhat unique and for not a terrible price (assuming). They look to be pretty good quality from looking at the pictures.

What type of iDye Poly do I need to dye PBT keycaps? Is it the stuff that says its for fabrics?

I decided not to buy a 70%.

It's too much to sacrifice.

What's your favorite 1911?

No just spring for a tada68.

i've looked into keycaps like this before. spent months looking, contacting etc.

got nowhere. even managed to talk to a representative from Ducky who speaks good english, he/she told me that these types of keycaps are really exclusive to japan and china.

even if you were to get them, you'll be spending a literal ton of money on shipping. it will also take months for them to get to you.

not worth the trouble you'll go through, trust me.

We'll see how it goes. I've deal with these sorts of companies in the past when I was buying computer parts for japanese devices. I probably have 33% chance of getting this done. I'm willing to waste some more time and money translating shit and talking to them. I think I have a chance of convincing them to sell me a "sample".

Why doesn't Plum make 55g boards?

>topre

My current mechanical keyboard's shitting the bed right now with USB connection problems so I'm coming here for some suggestions on reliable brands.

>Budget
$175 at most
>Location
United States
>Preferred switch type
Cherry MX Brown or similar
>Layout
ANSI
>Form factor
100% full 104 keys
>Backlight
Any backlights
>current keyboard
Rosewill RK-9000 Brown

Keys that don't have the paint wear off when you play rhythm games are preferable. I heard Ducky's a good reliable brand but I'd like to hear other suggestions.

>Keys that don't have the paint wear off when you play rhythm games are preferable.
You want PBT caps then, bud.

>Budget
Location (continent at least)
Italy - Europe

>Preferred switch type
Tactile - blue(?)

>Layout
US - ISO

>Form factor
tenkeyless

>Backlight
don't care

>Previous/current keyboards
ajazz ak33

I want a slightly larger mech keyboard for work, it doesn't need to be backlit, but it has to have the menu button, don't know what it's called, the one that does the same thing as the right click.

If I can get also PBT keys while still staying in budget, that would be great.
If it has a detachable cable, that would be great as well.

forget it, I meant ANSI, not ISO

Have you looked into the Easterntimes I500 or were you after something nicer? It fits your requirements perfectly minus the PBT keys.

This. Also you can get cheap-ass blank PBT caps for $20.

The right-click button can be emulated using autohotkey I'm pretty sure

I'm pretty sure it has the right-click button anyway.

>Also you can get cheap-ass blank PBT caps for $20.
Where? You better link me up to that son.

Buckling spring membranes are overrated, capacitive buckling spring is where it's at

what keyboard is that?
I'm looking for something smaller but I'm not sure if I can go without the numblock

Some user posted his budget build one or two threads ago. Search on aliexpress I guess

Pls respond.

What is best non-/CSG/ 65%-75% kit with only backplate, circuit board, and mx compatible top plate that supports 3mm LEDs, and has open source driver in C?

Tada68 kit or KBD75 kit from

kbdfans.myshopify.com/collections/keyboard

>Easterntimes I500

I actually got that from amazon together with the ajazz, but it had a defective cable. Other than that it was great.

I was wondering if I could do better, but I guess not. I'll get that again, then.
Thanks

I asked last thread, but that got no where.
Since Cherry reds are scratchy and kinda shitty, how do Razer yellows compare to Gateron reds?
Not taking price, product, brand reputation, build or anything into account, just purely switch vs switch.
Greetech vs Gateron.

The reds I have and the yellows I've felt in store feel strikingly similar.

What's up with magicforce and drevo Excalibur pricing for their black variants? The black ones are in far lower supply and also way more expensive.

How is kdbfans? Never bought from them, but it seems like looking from the archives people get some issues with them.

those people are dumb, kbdfans are the best budget supplier

I used one for like, 5 years straight before. In terms of membrane keyboards, they're right up there with those older dell keyboards, just cheaper.
Still a membrane keyboard.

I got these keycaps from them and they were great and also one of the only sets with a 5.5u space bar. Another user bought the same set and got a fucked up key.
They also sometimes list sets that aren't in stock and try to bait and switch you.
Overall i intend to buy again

I know i'm a faggot for liking RGB but I don't care. I'm set till I can get something with the same layout as my Pro M but with Cherry Clears. Maybe we'll get a 96 key version of the K Type

>Budget
150€
>Location (continent at least)
Europe/Portugal
>Preferred switch type
MX Brown or Clear
>Layout
Portuguese (fuck this country)
>Form factor
105 ISO
>Backlight
yes

was thinking about getting a custom from wasdkeyboards.com

on Sup Forums I'd say buckling springs over membrane are underrated and receive unnecessary hate. They are incredible boards to type on, as are capacitive BS

try their brand new topre silencing rings. They are fucking incredible.

I mean it depends how much you want to spend. For around $20, the i-500 can't be beat. Of you want something non-budget, there are other options, like cooler master pro s or whatever that one is called

If you don't get chinked they're bredy gud.

I haven't had any bad experiences personally, would buy again

I'm the italian guy from yesterday, and I was trying to dig into the differences between all types of mechanics. Why are buckling springs not widespread? They seem cheaper and easier to manufacture than Cherry MX. Speaking of which: what's the deal with all those different designs?

Unicomp is made up of a bunch of retards.

what are those keycaps?

What are those meme books?

Literally just joined the mech master race.

My sister hates it, I love it but I need to buy O-rings.

Cheap Outemu Switches but they feel quite nice.

They are nice switches, the problem with them is that they´re usually inconsistent.

>ruining your keyboard with orings
Sad!

Cause patents and cause they're retards.
They haven't doing anything to improve their molds or the keyboard itself.
Think about this: we could have modern capacitive buckling springs, cause they have the patents on it, but they stick with a el cheapo membrane matrix.

>inconsistent
I got a keyboard with Outemu blues and they are super consistent, they all feel almost exactly the same. My Alps keyboard is way more inconsistent key to key. Maybe Outemu keys improved recently?

Don't know really, the last time I bought a outemu keyboard it feel a bit inconsistent for my taste.
That was in 2016.

Razer switches are rebranded Kailh.

Nah, they ditched Kailh for being too good and therefore expensive, switching to Greetech instead.

Its the Anne/Ann Pro programmable?

>we could have modern capacitive buckling springs, cause they have the patents on it, but they stick with a el cheapo membrane matrix
>membrane vs capacitive
What difference does it make anyway?

Why would they ruin the keyboard?

Damn pressing tab feels fucking great

>Budget
$150 at Max, but cheaper preferable.
>Location (continent at least)
USA
>Preferred switch type
I've liked the red cherry switches on my current keyboard, but I'd be fine with something that probably feels similar (I've heard blues are pretty close).
>Layout
ANSI
>Form factor
100% preferable, although I could do 80% with a good side numpad.
>Backlight
I don't really care desu
>Previous/current keyboards
Corsair K70 I got as a gift years ago from a friend that has recently shit itself. Figured going with non-vidya stuff is probably better/easier to repair if needed.

>I've heard blues are pretty close
All the Cherry MX style switches are the same, they just have different weight, and either do or do not have a tactile bump, and some have more of a bump than others.

I know. What I was saying was in terms of feel while typing i.e wight and the bump. People have told me that reds, browns, and blues all feel pretty similar.

Capacitive is much higher quality. The popular opinion is that they feel and sound better. They also last a hell of a lot longer, have nkro, and are easier to maintain.

Well, considering reds have no bump I'd say those people are retarded.

They're partially right though, reds and browns are so similar I would describe browns as reds that didn't pass QC.

Yeah but they aren't as loud, the whole point of buckling springs is to annoy the people around you.

Thoughts on the Noppoo choc mini? It'd be like 90€ with shipping, or could I do better for like 100€? Need a 75% with black switches (or similar), no fancy stuff required

Is there something wrong with your ears? Capacitive switches are much louder since the entire housing is made from metal

Go big or go home
mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2098
mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=2108

then get something like the drevo calibur

>Capacitive switches are much louder
Wrong.

do you have any clue what you're talking about?

Do you? You seem to have posted an image of a Tokyo Press capacitive switch in a discussion about the IBM Model F capacitive keyboards.

We were talking about buckling springs, not topres

looks cool but my highest priority are the F-keys, everything else is alterable

made a mistake, meant the gramr
amazon.com/DREVO-84-Key-Mechanical-Keyboard-Backlit/dp/B01K4GXJMA/ref=sr_1_1?s=electronics&ie=UTF8&qid=1501686052&sr=1-1&keywords=drevo gramr

I think those are the stock keycaps, user. (But I'm not that poster.)

I get that people make mistakes, but I'm curious as how you got topres from a discusion about buckling springs. You do know there are two different types. Buckling spring over membrane (model M) and capacitive buckling springs (model F)

I got gateron blues, but I keep bottoming out. Should I switch to MX Greens or to a tactile switch instead?

yeah i know the difference
i didn't spend any time reading the conversation

>but I keep bottoming out
So?

Actually, looking a bit more online, I think I tend to like the linearity of the reds. I was looking at the Plum 87 with some heavier Gateron (yellow or black).