If you want help:

If you want help:
>Assemble parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>State the budget for your build (and country if not USA)
>List games/software you use often, as well as your monitor resolution + refresh rate
>Clarify your goal for build improvements: lower price or improved specs?
How to assemble a PC, select components & more (outdated)
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php?title=Build_a_PC

CPUs:
No i5 unless discounted
>G4560 - poverty-tier builds
>R3 1200 - Budget builds (R3 1300x - Good stop-gap between the 1500x and the 1200, only get a 1400 if you absolutely need multithreading
>R5 1500x - Good but up to 1600 if you can
>R5 1600 - Best value for higher fps gaming / mixed usage; 1600x if you want higher stock clocks
>R7/Used Xeon/Threadripper - Compute/Multitask/VM/mixed use; Not for just gaming

GPUs:
Coin miners have driven price up and stock down, waiting to buy a GPU might be wiser
>Integrated CPU Graphics - Desktop stuff and very light games
>GTX 1050(Ti) - Lower end budget cards, drop settings on newer games, RX560 beaten by both
>RX570 - 1080p@60~hz maxed, running most maxed older games at 100~Hz
>RX580 and GTX1060 6GB - 1080p@80hz maxed, 1440p@60hz at lower settings; RX580 better in newer games
>GTX 1070 - 1080p@130hz /1440p@60hz at high
>GTX 1080 - 1080p@144hz / 1440p@60hz maxed, 4k@60hz in a few games; Probably the highest end card you need for 1080p/1440p
>GTX 1080Ti - 1440p@144hz and 4k@60hz maxed/high in many games
>Good fucking luck even getting a VEGA right now

RAM:
>Check your Mobo QVL before buying any RAM
>Ryzen CPUs benefits a lot from high speed RAM

General:
ALWAYS LOOK AT PRODUCT REVIEWS!
Always consider an SSD. Try buying a large SSD for what you'd pay for your SSD+HDD combined, and add a HDD later
NVMe SSDs aren't for a faster OS boot, they're for productivity/scratch disk/VMs. NVMe and M.2 are not the same thing, M.2 is a form factor

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=DWT4tFo9-Vs
pcpartpicker.com/user/nightlyskill/saved/rRznQ7
pcpartpicker.com/list/sFGLZ8
pcpartpicker.com/list/HVFg6X
pcpartpicker.com/list/ZQGLZ8
twitter.com/SFWRedditVideos

Whats a cute itx mobo + case that I can put my spare 4670k.
Something with an m.2 drive maybe

trying to make a cute little computer

How easy is it to replace a CPU cooler? I'm technologically retarded and had my computer built by a friend who's no longer in town. I figured out how to replace the GPU/install a new hard drive, but the cooler scares me a bit.

My biggest concern is the bracket on the back - would I have to replace that as well, or do most coolers work just as well with any other?

hey cutie,

what cooler you gonna get? What mobo and cpu you got?

i want to play hearthstone and league of legends on low to medium settings, will this do the trick?

I don't really know, I haven't put a lot of thought into it past wanting to replace the old one yet. Thinking about replacing it still makes me anxious

CPU is a 4670k, the motherboard is a Z97-G45 according to the box in my closet

my dude you gon have to spend another gpu to hope to get better frames. those games are very hard to play atm

Looking for suggestions on a new case from my NZXT Phantom 410.

I have a Kraken x41 water cooler which has a 140mm radiator and an ATX motherboard

ssds are a meme prove me wrong

>new case from my NZXT Phantom 410
What's wrong with it? Just bored with it? A Phantom 410 will accept a 140mm rad in the roof.

>Z97-G45
oh yes bb. I want to slide my penis inside you.

just get a cpu cooler with LGA 1150 compatibility maybe hyper 212 evo or go all out with corsair 115i for maximum overclocking

>subject in the name field
kys

I'd argue they are one of the most important parts of a modern system. You can throw all the CPU and RAM at a computer, it'll still be slow as fuck without an SSD. An SSD makes literally everything you do on a computer faster. Shit installs in seconds, shit loads in seconds, massive files are able to be moved in seconds, and your system will start up in seconds. It's incredibly refreshing to be able to boot up your PC in less than 15 seconds and immidiately start using in. On a HDD system you have to wait a minute or two for it to load into the OS, then another minute or two for it to sort itself out before anything will actually open.

t. been using a 1TB SSD as my only storage since 2013, every time I use a system that has a HDD these days I'm reminded why it was such an excellent investment, even at the massive price it cost back then

It was a temp case with half the panel cables are either missing or broken including the power switch.

The gpu is pretty tough to screw in as the back of the case seems warped

If I put a windows 7 pro license into windows 10 enterprise, will it become windows 10 pro.

See, I made a /pcbg/ before this thread, I wondered how I missed this one and shamefully deleted it. That's why.

OP sure is a dumb retard.

Which 1080ti do I get? I'll be upgrading from an MSI 480 4gb 'cause I was dumb and

>wait for Vega

full retard mode; engaged

If you ask NZXT 'how do I source X part', there's a good chance they'll just ask you your address and send you a new PCB with all the power stuff on it.

My 410 has had the USB port PCB go bad, and the front LED die. Both times out of warranty they just sent me new parts for free.

Too bad about the warped chassis though.

Asus Strix is king, it vastly outperforms the rest of the field in terms of quietness/temps. It tends to be pretty expensive though. If it costs more than you're willing to pay, the MSI Gaming and Aorus are also good options.

Also forgot to say, they all do the same clocks, so if you don't give a shit about noise, just buy the cheapest.

Is it worth getting a CaseLabs case (close to $600 after customizing how I want)?

I have a single CPU and a single GPU. Neither of which I overclock. With the Mercury case, I can have 2x 480mm radiators (1 at top and bottom). Low flow optimized system with dual pumps/flow rate alarms. I want to passively cool my 1700X and any future graphics card. I'll put low RPM/high static pressure fans on the rads just in case of course.

Or should I spend that money on building a standing rad rack externally from the case I already have?

No, the free W10 upgrade was a couple of years ago

so you can't use a windows 7 key to install windows 10?

I do kinda sorta care about noise and, more importantly, heat.

Thanks my man.

The EVGA FTW3 card is actually on par with the Asus in everything but noise I think. Also doesn't look half bad. Usually the same price or cheaper. I personally prefer EVGA > Asus whenever possible.

Hmm that's interesting I'll look into that.

Yeah it's a bit annoying but I may try and find a solution.

I can't wait for SSDs to be affordable enough to be used as storage. Don't really feel like dropping same amount of cash on SSDs as I did on rest of the parts.

The EVGA card is also good yeah. I forget what site it was did a 40db normalised test (like Tomshardware used to do), but they found the Asus card to be quite far ahead of the rest.

Honestly though, I doubt it makes much difference. I've got the Aorus card and at around 2000Mhz it's practically soundless so long as you're happy to run it above 80C. I'm super autistic about noise too, I'd have bought the Asus card had I known it was better at the time.

Just avoid the blower cards.

>My biggest concern is the bracket on the back - would I have to replace that as well, or do most coolers work just as well with any other?

Most brackets are model specific so you will probably have to remove the bracket before you install a new one, see if you can find the manual online

>1 TB SSD in 2013

I'm curious as to how much did it cost you back then

are these band things memes? I always use one, but do they genuinely make a difference?
asking for a friend.

Is now really the worst time to build a new PC? With high RAM prices for the next year or two, inflated GPU prices, and so much bullshit in terms of such upgrades in hardware happening in the next year.

you realize that that pic is not grounded and makes the usage of the band useless?

You need meme grounding bar for your case to make the band work,and at that point you would directly connect the band,

will a good cpu increase fps in most games even if there wasnt a cpu bottleneck to begin with?

>I'm curious as to how much did it cost you back then
Can't find the invoice in my email search history, I think it was more than 400 pounds (UK). It was the Samsung 840 Evo, luckily haven't had any reliability issues with it.

When I first got it, it was making a whining noise, I contacted Samsung and they did an advanced RMA straight away without me even asking. Some postman turned up to my door, asked for the old drive and handed me the new one right then and there. Pretty damn good service.

on static electricity
>"As you keep walking across the floor, you become full of electrons," said Todd Hubing, from the Electromagnetic Compatibility Laboratory at the University of Missouri-Rolla. "Eventually more electrons don't want to come up on you because you're so charged up. You end up with a high voltage, about 20,000 to 25,000 volts."

t. some science mag

depends on the games. Also depends on what CPU you're coming from. If FPS goes up or remains more constant with less drops than before the CPU upgrade, you were CPU bound/bottlenecked.

I know all about CPU bottlenecking. I bought an FX-4100 when they first came out.

Static is a meme. I've tried to destroy a 900 series GPU I didn't need anymore and it wouldn't die. Shocked it over 100 times with a balloon and blanket (backplate off), even ran paperclips over the exposed solder where the PCIe connectors were in while it was under load, it made sparks and shutting down. Still working perfectly to this day in my second system.

>have had my x99 set up for like a year and half now
>always had problems quad channel configuration
>could never figure out why there's always problems
>finally 1.5 years later and at my wits end about to trash the computer
>i realize i've been using slots A1,B1,C2,B2 instead of C1+B1
i feel like legitimately the biggest fucking idiot ever, i'm pretty sure that x99-a mobo i returned over a year ago was working perfectly but i used the same messed memory configuration, which ended up costing me an extra $120 to get a new one.

>20,000 to 25,000 volts

ever touch a metal doorknob and get zapped? Congratulations, you just grounded yourself. Literally just touch anything metal after walking on carpet or before touching electronics, and you don't have to worry about ESD

t. guy who has been building PCs for almost a decade now and never, not even once, even CONSIDERED wearing a static wrist band. Fuck those things.

>no i5
bought i5 7600k for $170, discount enough? asking for a friend...

Just get a 900D and some extra thicc rads. Just be warned, you need at least one case fan to vent the inside unless you want cooked surface components.

Too impatient for Coffee Lake?

well you can just check if the cpu is maxing out before the gpu to check for the bottleneck
lets say im playing gta with a 6700k and it's gpu bound
would my fps increase if i upgraded to a 7700k and all other components were the same?

coffee would be out of my budget

> itty bitty amperage
> remembering to do things

>well you can just check if the cpu is maxing out before the gpu to check for the bottleneck
It's not that simple. Sub-100% core usage doesn't always mean you aren't bottlenecked. For example my CPU usually shows a max usage of around 75-80% per-core in CSGO, but I still get around half the framerate an OC'd 7700K is capable of.

8700K is rumoured to be $385 Canadian, so $300 US. The 6-core i5 should be similar to what the current i5 is.

is there any way you can know for sure before you upgrade the cpu?

Well what have you got right now and what are you planning to move to?

Even if Coffee Lake is good, I think a Ryzen is worth it just because AM4 will be supported for a while.

They are all the same because the voltage is locked

4690k
one of the ryzen 7s or maybe a xeon

no. The 6700k and 7700k are very close in performance. The only thing the 7700k offers is higher out of the box clock speed and slightly more headroom. I.e. 6700k tops at usually at 4.7 to 4.8ghz while the 7700k will do 4.8 to 5.0ghz.

What GPU are you using? What frame rates are you getting that are unacceptable? GTA5 is one of the games that actually benefits from MOAR COARS. Are you experiencing constant low FPS, or just dips? I had a 6700k which I sold for my now R7-1700X. On my i7, I'd get FPS drops to the teens for a couple seconds when running in grassy areas or driving too fast, but get a max FPS of 140FPS with a 980ti at 1440p.

On my 1700X with the same card and monitor, I get lows of 48FPS but a high of only 100FPS.

Coffee Lake is a huge leap, it's 50% more cores after-all. I get the point that it's shit Intel changes their sockets so often, but really, I can't see too many people buying 8700K's and being butthurt when Ice Lake releases and is 15% faster, if that.

BUT

what if AMD jews us, they expect to do this but it is not guaranteed???

8700k also has good single thread performance for those shitty optimized games from the past to be played with high fps and the current games. Also multi thread performance boost

Unless you're having trouble with what you've got, just wait. Haswell is still a good architecture, there isn't a huge difference between it and Baby Lake.

Ryzen would be a sidegrade/slight downgrade in single-threaded titles, and would be a minimal upgrade in heavily multi-threaded ones, it isn't worth the expenditure. At least wait for 8700K.

yes but the 8700k and all Intel chips run like furnaces. Even at stock clocks. And when AMD talks about their CPU line, they're usually on point. Look at how long the AM3/AM3+ socket lasted.

And currently Coffee Lake and whatever comes after is only ahead of Ryzen gen 1 because of optimizations and tried/tested architecture vs a brand new one still getting it's footing. AMD's SMT multi-threading is more efficient than Intel's hyperthreading. AMD chips run cooler, use less juice, and cost less. The only thing holding AMD back is the low clock speed which if rumor has it, Ryzen+/2 will fix that. All while being able to keep your current motherboard.

What's the best CPU cooler under $100?

If you care about looks, Phanteks whateverthefuckitscalled, if you don't, NHD15.

Cooling what? At what speed? Do you care about noise? Many options user. Many doors Edd Boy

Ryzen 7 is pretty hot at 4 GHz. It is also possible Zen+/2 will be also be running hotter too. I wouldn't say the AM3 socket was that well off it did not compete well with gaming performance compared to intels lineup.

We do not know what AMD may do in the future.

Please help, I don't know what I did wrong.

youtube.com/watch?v=DWT4tFo9-Vs

have you tried clear cmos.

CPU fan is good in place?

RUN user, ITS GONNA BLOW LIKE FUKUSHIMA

OHHHH FUCCCCCKKKK

4GHz is even a guarantee for Ryzen, so of course it'd be hot. 90% of Ryzen chips cap off at 3.8ghz at a reasonable voltage.

And the socket has little to do with gaming. I was referring to how long AMD kept the AM3/+ socket around. Meanwhile Intel has been through a shit load of sockets, many of them offering nothing new over the old one other than to force you to buy a new one.

You're right though. Can't predict the future. I'll stick with my AMD and hope for the best. Nothing felt worse than having to retire my FX-9590 and swallow Intel dick for the 6700k. Thankfully Ryzen wasn't a flop.

does it ever make it past post? And look at what that speaker code means in your handbook user. What motherboard is it?

4770k, this thing seems to run stupid hot even after reapplying thermal paste and making sure everything is seated correctly
Stock
Noise is my number one concern, as long as it keeps the temps safe I don't care

Opinions on my first build?

pcpartpicker.com/user/nightlyskill/saved/rRznQ7

I am just playing devils advocatetbh

I'm scared though. Will you hold me?

I want to cum all over it. No hdD?

You pretty much got it all perfect minus buying Windows. Dump that shit and put the money towards a 1080Ti, or just dump it and treat yourself to some nice peripherals, or a 24" pizza.

Not them but doesn't ryzen 7 bottle neck 1080ti in some games?

Absolutely, if you're playing older titles Ryzen will bottleneck like a bitch.

Most likely though, the guy isn't buying a 1080Ti to play Company of Heroes and Arma 3.

Choose from pic related. All of them perform decently enough and both Be Quiet! and Noctua are nice and quiet. Phanteks is known for their more aggressive cooling at the cost of noise.

However, the 4770k was known for having its internal thermal paste crack over time. My friend's did that when he was under custom liquid. Maybe you should consider delidding that CPU all memes aside. That same buddy saw a 27C decrease in idle/load temps after a de-lid.
Bottleneck how? You mean max FPS? Are you playing on a 144hz monitor? If that's the case, you shouldn't be buying Ryzen. Literally ANY use case under 144hz gaming is Ryzen.

And buying Windows isn't all bad. It's a system you intend to use every single day. Fuck it. It's a one time purchase. Fire and forget.

>144hz monitor
yes

so I go to jewtill?

Help pls.

>Budget: ~$2000
CPU: AMD Ryzen 5 1600X 3.6GHz ($226.48)
Cooling: Cooler Master - MasterLiquid Pro 280 64.2 CFM Liquid Cooler ($99.99)
Motherboard: MSI X370 GAMING PRO CARBON ATX AM4 ($151.88)
RAM: G.Skill Ripjaws V Series 32GB (2 x 16GB) DDR4-3200 Memory ($254.99)
Storage: Samsung 850 EVO-Series 500GB 2.5" SSD($139.99)
GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X ($329.99)
Case: ???????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????????
Power Supply: EVGA SuperNOVA G3 750W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX ($113.88)
OS: Windows 10 Home ($89.89)
Wired Network Adapter: Intel EXPI9301CT PCI-Express x1 10/100/1000 Mbps ($34.99)
Display: Dell S2417DG 23.8" 2560x1440 165Hz ($429.99)
>Current build cost (including new display): $1877.06

>Purpose: Casual gaymen (PUBG, Overwatch, Civilization, etc.)

>Advice: Performance improvement, case selection

>GPU: MSI GeForce GTX 1060 6GB 6GB GAMING X ($329.99)
amazon has the PNY for 300 last I checked but they had like 3 left earlier today

unfortunately, yes. The 7700k will be the only thing to give you 140+ FPS. And that's only because of the high clocks. Invest in a very good cooler, a well ventilated case, and hope you can hit 5.0ghz.

Or maybe just turn down the AA in your games?

post your pcbuilding link so I can edit. I see some stuff that can be fixed to drop the price. I can help you really improve that build.

Oh, I don't really know anything about PNY.

Sure, here you go: pcpartpicker.com/list/sFGLZ8

O yea I have one already picked out. A 4tb one its just not on the list.

fuCK
I just want a CPU that can 144Hz 1440p gaymen and watch my animes and browse my internets at the same time without autistic stuttering.

>you realize that that pic is not grounded and makes the usage of the band useless?
How can you tell that it isn't grounded? You can't see the PSU and whether the PSU is plugged into the wall.

Recently upgraded my R7 1700 build to an L9x65 Noctua cooler. I purchased the NF-A9 PWM separately and latched it onto the CPU. I put the 14mm variant that came with the cooler on the 92mm slot on my case. Whenever I ramp it up past 40%, it starts making a whining noise like you'd expect out of a fan that's spinning too fast/is old as balls, but it's brand new and rated to 2500RPM. What gives? Did I get a bad fan?

Oh but just wanted to say the L9x65 is pretty great, but it's only a marginal improvement over the stock cooler (75C peak [email protected] P95 load stock, 72C peak L9x65). I might have put on too much thermal paste. I'm RMA'ing my 1700 for a 30+ week version (I'm a Linux dev) anyway but those are my temps.

here you go friend. I cut down on various things and added to others. pcpartpicker.com/list/HVFg6X
>Changed overpriced X370 board to B350 board
>Removed Intel NIC
>1060 to 1070
>Better power supply, less money
>less ram, less money (why did you have 32GB there anyway?)

With your price point of $2k at a max, technically if you cut more corners (drop the monitor to something cheaper, maybe get a smaller SSD or something) you could squeeze a 1080ti into this build. I left you room for a case of your choice though.
what kind of monitor do you have? Have you already purchased the 144hz monitor? Maybe consider a G-sync monitor. You can then go with a Ryzen build, and run 75-ish Hz and have the same smooth feel in games. Again though, you can always decrease the AA in some games to achieve that 144hz. Ryzen multi-tasks well but its top end FPS is lacking. I have no problems as I'm a 60hz 1440p pleb, but that's me. I see the glaring cons of current Intel CPUs and steer clear.

does anyone just spend some good money on a new machine and then feel like doing nothing at all with it besides watching streams/listening to music and browse?

feels bad when the gaymen inside you dies when you're only 27

Many thanks! Initially I had been planning for 16GB of RAM, but I thought it might be useful to have the extra capacity. If not though, then never mind.

And I would like to upgrade to a 1080TI if possible, so I'll see what I can do. I'm not really interested in an extravagant case, so that should help.

lemme take a look and see what I can do. Although to warn you, I'm helping this user and Ryzen doesn't do 144hz gaming well. Let alone 165hz. You may have to put up with lower FPS than 144hz (think 120-ish) or turn down your game settings.
it's called you're feeling burnt out. Find a new hobby/something else that isn't gaming. I posting from my main machine powered by a 1700X, Asus ROG X370 board, and 980ti. I've literally done nothing but post on my favorite Tibetan Throat Singing Forum and watch Jon Wick.

since when did RAM sticks get so big?

sorry, my last build was in 2010

No really, that's actually how much voltage you get. It's just got such a low amperage all it does is zap.

>You may have to put up with lower FPS than 144hz (think 120-ish) or turn down your game settings.
To be honest I'd be perfectly happy with 120. I'm going with Ryzen more because because as far as I've read it offers the best balance of performance.

Slap more metal on them.

Here's a 1080ti version. Technically you can save more by downgrading to a non X 1600, and getting rid of the Hyper 212 EVO, and relying on the stock cooler. The 1600 and 1600X are the exact same chip. One just comes faster out of the box. As for the case, it's $60. Cheapest I could find that wasn't complete garbage. There's the Corsair 200r, or Carbide 270 (windowed or not) all in the same range.

pcpartpicker.com/list/ZQGLZ8

yeh its a weird feeling tho, I have a giant urge to play when I am on the process of getting my new computer and it goes away pretty fast once I have the machine, well you're right its time to look for something else to fill dead time.

Did OP's pic go out of their way to get a White power supply just to end up putting it under a shroud?

That looks very promising. Could be my final build, as I'm not overly concerned about skimping on the CPU and cooler to save a few bucks. Maybe I'll dick around with the tower options for a while, but that's it. You've also saved me the trouble of setting up liquid cooling, which I appreciate. Thanks again!

Those are the biggest you can get I think, it is just a overkill heatsink, all aesthetics.