/pcbg/ PC Building General

If you want help:
>Assemble parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>State the budget for your build (and country if not USA)
>List games/software you use often, as well as your monitor resolution + refresh rate
>Clarify your goal for build improvements: lower price or improved specs?
How to assemble a PC, select components & more (outdated)
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php?title=Build_a_PC

CPUs:
No i5 unless discounted
>A10 9700 - poverty-tier builds (no dGPU)
>R3 1200 - Budget builds (R3 1300x - Good stop-gap between the 1500x and the 1200, only get a 1400 if you absolutely need multithreading
>R5 1500x - Good but up to 1600 if you can
>R5 1600 - Best value for higher fps gaming / mixed usage; 1600x if you want higher stock clocks
>R7/Used Xeon/Threadripper - Compute/Multitask/VM/mixed use; Not for just gaming

GPUs:
Coin miners have driven price up and stock down, waiting to buy a GPU might be wiser
>Integrated CPU Graphics - Desktop stuff and very light games
>GTX 1050(Ti) - Lower end budget cards, drop settings on newer games, RX560 beaten by both
>RX570 - 1080p@60~hz maxed, running most maxed older games at 100~Hz
>RX580 and GTX1060 6GB - 1080p@80hz maxed, 1440p@60hz at lower settings; RX580 better in newer games
>GTX 1070 or Vega 56 - 1080p@130hz /1440p@60hz at high
>GTX 1080 - 1080p@144hz / 1440p@60hz maxed, 4k@60hz in a few games; Probably the highest end card you need for 1080p/1440p
>GTX 1080Ti - 1440p@144hz and 4k@60hz maxed/high in many games
>Good fucking luck even getting a VEGA right now

RAM:
>Check your Mobo QVL before buying any RAM
>Ryzen CPUs benefits a lot from high speed RAM

General:
ALWAYS LOOK AT PRODUCT REVIEWS!
Always consider an SSD. Try buying a large SSD for what you'd pay for your SSD+HDD combined, and add a HDD later
NVMe SSDs aren't for a faster OS boot, they're for productivity/scratch disk/VMs. NVMe and M.2 are not the same thing, M.2 is a form factor
Fuck miners

Other urls found in this thread:

reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/
flash.newegg.com/
slickdeals.net/
pcpartpicker.com/list/Wfw2d6
a.co/ekPmbLn
amazon.com/ADATA-MODULE-AX4U2800W4G17-DRZ-2800MHZ-2x4GB/dp/B00MSOJRXC
pcpartpicker.com/list/jkRmtJ
twitter.com/NSFWRedditGif

add gtx 1030 to plebbit tier budget facebook machine

a fag built this

I strapped a 120 mm fan onto my 970gtx since the ball bearings on the old fan gave out and it made annoying noises.
The GPU temp now rises to 85°C. Is this still ok?

What are your primary stores and deal-finders?

reddit.com/r/buildapcsales/
flash.newegg.com/
slickdeals.net/

Fuck i didn't check the new thread, anyways:
what's wrong with 1700X?

Compared to 1700, it's more expensive, doesn't come with a cooler and they OC the same. 1800x is higher binned 1700 but in practice they're the same chip and has no reason to exist.

>making a little mining rig
>$80 960 GTX in my area on craigslist

starting a new build. Already have CPU, Mobo, and SSD as shown in the list.

pcpartpicker.com/list/Wfw2d6

I don't give a shit about gaming, so I just need a GPU that can run up to 3 monitors. I noticed most low-end cards only have 1 or 2 HDMI/DP outs, do any cards below $150 have up to 3 HDMI/DP?

There shouldn't be anything wrong with the rest of it, case and PSU are placeholders for the kind of budget I'm going for the rest of it, as with the GPU I want to keep the rest under $400.

Is it worth it to buy a small 50ish$ SSD for a budget build or should I just get a HDD and then buy a decent SSD?

Any recommendations on budget SSDs?

>do any cards below $150 have up to 3 HDMI/DP?
Nope. 2 is max from what I've seen.
Either buy a used high end card from a couple of gens back
or
get several cheapo $50 cards

>A10 9700

What the fuck is that? The shoehorned on AM4 APUs from 2015?

1060, 1070, 1080 or 1080ti?
I don't want something that will be obsolete in 3 years but also not a literal vacuum cleaner + radiator

wait for volta

is the Crosshair VI Hero ATX AM4 worth the money?
or should I get a STRIX B350-F?

What should I buy if I need a graphics card now and want to wait for Volta?

Fuck me a new thread came up while I was writing this post down.

Hey, /pcbg/, please help me with my new build. My current one broke so I'm salvaging what I can from it.

CPU: Ryzen 1600
Motherboard: MSI Tomahawk Arctic (can't seem to get vanilla Tomahawk, please suggest a better board if you can, I'm kind of afraid buying this one and getting an old revision)
RAM: No fucking idea, please help. Any thoughts on A-DATA sticks?
Everything else I'm salvaging from my current build:
Fractal Define R4
R9 290
Seasonic Platinum 660W

Ideally would like to keep the price under $350. Less is better, but only if it doesn't compromise the quality. Linux user, if it matters.

considering X-370 instead of B-350 if i dont get the Crosshair VI

Yeah a 120GB SSD is worth having.

It's at least half a year away.

Yes it's awful, I don't know why people leave it in the OP

With what pc and for what use? What resolution?

A small increment in your upgrade path

Ryzen: ~$200
-------------------
..............$150
MoBo: ~$80
-------------------
...............$70

70 bucks for RAM means you'd have to go with 8gigs max.
What kind of RAM is pretty much irrelevant just make sure it's in the MoBo's QVL.

Building a new rig
Cpu with be from one of 7700(k)\1700(x)\1800
Buying new monitor to accommodate gpu (VGA on current one), probably will run at 1080 por 1440p

...

closest one i could find only cost $10 more
a.co/ekPmbLn

You can get a 1080 if you go 1080p144Hz or 1440p60, Ti for 1440p144

Yrah definitely gonna do 8 GB for now. This is the RAM I was thinking, but I'm not sure.
amazon.com/ADATA-MODULE-AX4U2800W4G17-DRZ-2800MHZ-2x4GB/dp/B00MSOJRXC

Probably gonna put me a bit over the limit but the prices jumped overnight so can't be helped.

No, if its a reference model you should replace it with a blower style fan. However if it has an aftermarket cooler you should place the fan as close to the heatsink as possible, e.g. by removing any visual plastic shrouds...

Looking to build a new machine with the 8-core Threadripper. I mostly do software development, but I'd also like to run a Windows VM with PCI passthrough for gaming. I have a few dumb questions:
>What are good brands for motherboards, RAM, and GPUs?
>Are AMD GPUs still basically required to do PCI passthrough, or does it work well with nvidia now as well?
>Does TR's quad channel RAM support actually improve memory access throughput/latency?
>How do I into water cooling? I figure if I'm going to try it then I might as well go all out and build a custom loop, so what's a good "babby's first custom loop" guide?

Not sure if budget is relevant at this point, but I'm aiming for $2,000, maybe up to $2,500 if necessary. I'm planning to reuse my current GPU and buy a second one for the Windows VM. May also reuse PSU (if it's big enough) and case.

pcpartpicker.com/list/jkRmtJ
This is what I intend to build

Current build is:
>FX 6300
>GTX 950 (same one in the list)
>8 GB of dual-channel ddr3 @803 MHz
>Toshiba HDD (one in the list)
>Asus VS228 monitor

Budget: aprox. 1100$

What I want to use this PC is as a workstation and a gaming PC (I am planning to buy a Zotac GTX 1070 a bit later)

Only thing that bugs me is RAM memory
Since I live in Serbia, components are 20-30% more expensive than in US, and specific manufacturers are rarely found so this is the list of available DDR4 RAM sticks that I can buy:
>Patriot DIMM DDR4 8 GB, 2133 MHz, PSD48G213381 (x2)
>Kingston Fury Black 8 GB, 2400 MHz, CL-15 (x2)
>GSkill DDR4 8 GB 2400 MHz, CL-17 (F4-2400C17S-8GNT) (x2)
>GSkill Aegis 2x8 GB 3000 MHz, CL-16

So the prices are:
>150$ for 2 sticks of Patriot memory
>198$ for Kingston
>160$ for GSkill
>170$ for GSkill Aegis
Yeah prices are fucked up desu

Any suggestions?

I got money for a 1080ti

is evga usually the way to go
do they all have the same performance or is the only difference the cooling

>pcpartpicker.com/list/jkRmtJ
I strongly recommend a air cooler instead of AiO, reliability is much much higher and cooling at this price point is better with regular coolers.

look at 1080ti comparison benchmarks

Thank you, silent PC is what I need and this config that I currently have is obnoxiously loud, that is why I chose supressor and thought that AiO was a better choice

They all match in the part picker, I just made a crappy image for fast viewing. Is this a decent build for 850? I set myself a 1k limit.

Gigabyte/STRIX gtx 950/1050ti
I currently have GV-N950WF2OC-2GD, you have 2 HDMI, DVI-D (dual link) and DVI-I (also dual link)

Do you understand that the White PSU will still be black in color and not meet your theme?

That case is too small for that motherboard. And that PSU is not very good.

Get a Tomohawk motherboard instead, they come in white and are really good.

They're essentially the same motherboard but ATX instead of mATX.

Is that not a micro board and micro case?I know, it's all the saem and IIRC you can really see that thing anyways, I only went white inadvertently because the parts were cheapish.

That's a mini ITX case, which is smaller than micro ATX. There's a mATX version of it too though.

(Which is called core v21 i believe)

Maybe step up to a 1700

No point unless he's wanting to do heavy productivity tasks or play games and render video at the same time. If he's playing video games, stepping up to a 1070 would be the better option here.

>look at graphics cards on logical increments
>decide on the $200 one
>try to add it on part picker
>2/3 of options for that model are sold out
>the rest are are $400-$500
what the fuck

welcome to 2017 enjoy your stay.

I have a 1600 and a 1070 and this is what I would reccomend, too.

The guy on LI refuses to show retail prices on his site and chooses to show MSRP. We told him it's stupid but he's sticking to his guns.

kys
t. lost silicon lottery because of you you fucks

lewd

Anyone here had any experience with the Carbide 500R case? How is it?

My exact dilemma. I want to upgrade my old Radeon HD6950 to a Geforce 1060 6GB but holy fuck prices are ridiculous. Ram prices are also ridiculous now. Guess I'm stuck with my current build (hd6950, i5 2500k, ddr3 ram)... Should I just wait it out and upgrade later in the year? I just want to be able to play in 1440p :(

>intel nowhere on the recommended CPUs
I never thought I'd see the day.

>I don't know why people leave it in the OP
Upgrade path
Bristol Ridge APUs are the last hurrah for the Excavator based processors, which were a revision of Bulldozer with higher IPC

>later in the year
It won't be any better.

There are still reasons to buy Intel, but most people should be looking at Ryzen right now.

I hope with volta release it might be a bit better.

Its weaker than a 750 ti, no

Any tips for finding parts for a super low budget PC for under $150? I've looked at some builds on pcpartpicker but most of them are out of date or the parts are way more expensive than what they're posted as.

It just needs to be able to run Office and League of Legends.

I'm looking at various motherboards with M.2 slots, I would just like to know if having the slot under the top PCI-e slot can have any adverse effects on the SSD since most graphics cards are installed in said PCI-e slot

buy a used one.

it can lead to heat issues if the case doesn't have great airflow.

yes. having the m.2 slot below the top x16 pcie slot means the graphics card is above it which is bad for cooling the SSD. Look for a board with the m.2 slot above the PCIe slot. or one with a heatsink for it, but those are only found on much more expensive boards.

>League of Legends
I could sell you my old build for even less than $150, but you play the shittiest game ever so I won't.

for a friend, I play [spoiler]brood war[/spoiler]

Sorry nvm, I just checked usd value and it's trash. It would be closer to $200 now.

Any major difference between the main SSD manufacturers in terms of quality and reliability?
Namely Samsung, Crucial and SanDisk. Samsung appears to be slightly more expensive.

They're all (those 3) within spitting distance of each other.
eeny meany miny mo.

Marketshare is the crucial factor for Samsung, since it's in the game in other fields besides tech such as tank manufactoring, building construction etc. Sandisk, Kingston, Crucial etc. are all known of worldwide, so it all comes down to your personal pick, and also capacity and speed

>everything assembled
>turn on, works great
>open disk drive to put in Windows 7 DVD
>disk drive doesn't open
>didn't plug it in
fug

>>later in the year
>It won't be any better.
then wat do?

Buy now or wait who the fuck knows how long.
But in the very short term it's actually getting worse.

>windows 7
>optical drive
You disgust me.

I built this desktop specifically for proprietary software and muh games.

Has anyone else used this monitor?

It's an AOC e2260swdn 22" 1080p monitor. I need something for programming and gaming but I want to get a cheap monitor for now until I can save up to get a better one. Someone is offering to sell it for $35 on Letgo.

>optical drive

Do you not keep ther discs of your old software in the event of a hard drive failure?

Samsung will most likely last you a bit longer, but the way SSDs work, it doesn't really matter who you choose among the major brands.

Buying an SSD is like buying a lottery ticket. Take the best deal you can get at the moment and hope you didn't get a sunday example.

HDDs are easier, just go WD or Toshiba. Rest is statistically proven shit.

I'd cash out the $99 required to get a brand new 24" 1080p IPS instead.

If money is an issue then just hop on the deal. I'd never personally buy a TN monitor if it wasn't specified for gaming though.

Is it true that my 1800x is actually 20°C cooler than sensors say?

>SSD info
Thanks.

By default, yes. The 20c offset is so there is thermal headroom for your cooling to ramp up when XFR kicks in. Some motherboard (notably x370 ones) let you disable and/or outright change the skew value.

>set RAM to 2933 in BIOS
>save and restart
>no longer outputs to monitor
What do? B350 Carbon Pro

Up the voltage.

I've had one for 3-4 years now. I like it quite a bit but I don't have a ton to go off of since its the only case I've ever had.

Which you need neither of those things to do. It's not 2011.

I don't use old software. And if I had software I couldn't do without that's not available online, I sure wouldn't store it on discs.

I have it right now, idk if I would recommend it unless it fits some requirements other cases don't have.

Okay, I think I'll go ahead and get it for now and then save up for a good monitor later

My RAM says it's CL 16-18-18-38, but my BIOS has 4 timing number options. Which one do I skip?

Windows 7 has the best overall games compatibility, and I have old games to rip.

1080 for 490€ or
1070 for 405€
Which is the better value here?
From benchmarks the 1080 seems the better one to me.

>Anonymous 09/02/17(Sat)15:07:23 No.62220180▶
Nevermind I'm going to wait

2nd and 3rd are "the same timing" in a sense. If your timings are 4 sets of numbers, the 2nd and 3rd on your list are both the 2nd number.

1080. That 1070 price is super inflated.

Actually I enabled XMP and it set it automatically for me. Thanks for the help though

Nice meme

its really not a meme I would appreciate any help

First, read the OP.

On my country's Amazon 1070s have always been above 430€ so these are the best prices I've ever seen.

Why is there not a monitor thread?
Really can't decide on 34" 2560x1080 ultrawide or 27" 1440p144Hz monitor (GSync costs €145 extra, hot fucking damn)