/pcbg/ - PC Building General

Coffee Lake has been released! Benchmarks / Reviews
techpowerup.com/reviews/ (Seach 'Intel')

====

>Assemble a part list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Example gaming builds and monitor suggestions; click on the blue title to see notes
pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/
>Learn how to build a PC (You can find a lot more detailed videos on channels like Bitwit)
youtu.be/69WFt6_dF8g
>How to install Win7 on Ryzen
pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1

If you want help:
>State the budget & CURRENCY for your build
>List your uses, e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose (e.g., photoediting, gaming) and graphics card pairing (if applicable)

CPUs:
>NO i5 7500/7600K or i7 7700/K. THEY ARE DEFUNCT AND SUPERSEDED BY COFFEE LAKE
>G4560/G4600 for non-gaming (light tasks) or bare minimum gaming builds with a dedicated graphics card
>R3 1200 - Budget builds (best with OC + fast RAM)
>R5 1600 / i5 8400 - Great gaming or multithreaded use CPUs
>R7 / Used Xeon / Threadripper / i7 - Heavy Multi-Tasking / VM Work / Mixed use

RAM:
>Current CPUs benefit from high speed RAM; 3000-3200 MHz is ideal
>Before buying RAM for Ryzen, check your Mobo's QVL or look for user reports

GPUs:
>Crypto-Currency miners have driven GPU prices up (particularly Radeon)
1080p
>GTX 1050Ti and 3GB 1060 are the only reasonably priced cards; 6GB 1060 or 4GB 580 if you want to overpay a little
>GTX 1070 if you're looking for very high (100+) framerates and you have a CPU and monitor to match
1440p
>GTX 1070/Ti and 1080 are standard choices; currently overpriced
>GTX 1080Ti if you're looking for very high (100+) framerates and you have a CPU and monitor to match
2160p (4K)
>GTX 1080Ti

General:
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING
>A 240GB or larger SSD is almost mandatory; consider m.2 form factor

Previous:

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/6hxzqk
pcpartpicker.com/list/fdTLzM
pcpartpicker.com/list/FkrgkT
pcpartpicker.com/list/K4Wpf8
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA66Z28G7122
amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1KKKO5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1
pcpartpicker.com/list/L2dkVY
pcpartpicker.com/list/dfWpf8
pcpartpicker.com/list/
pcpartpicker.com/list/sXsT6X
uk.pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/#c=367&sort=price&page=1
de.pcpartpicker.com/list/sJz3hq
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17-438-014
twitter.com/AnonBabble

last one srsly fuckin died before another was made

Looking for a low wattage PSU that's
>quiet
>decent warranty
Anything worth looking at under $100?

How long will a 1070 last me on 1440p

For gaming? It might struggle with ultra for intense games but it's not gonna combust or anything. Should be more than enough for just normal use

What Distro do I need to install to get an i7 8700k to work under linux?

Also give me some nice Mini ITX and mATX case suggestions that can handle a lightly overclocked 8700k and a 1080ti

>pic related but USA vaporware

pcpartpicker.com/list/6hxzqk
I'm having a second go at my first pc build after I got some feedback earlier
I want to keep the CPU and try to shave cost elsewhere, anything comparable to the 1080 3GB for cheaper?

Depends on what happens with games built for PS4 Pro / XB1X. I imagine that features like dynamic resolution will make it easier to run games at 1440p at a set FPS

>anything comparable to the 10[6]0 3GB for cheaper?
No. Also monitor sucks. If you live in a city just get on craigslist and buy a 23"-25" 1080p IPS for $50 - $60
Dropping to an R2 1200 really is a viable option if you want to save money. Also your upgrade path looks better: if you start at the 1600 it's going to be hard to justify an upgrade

Also you can get a Bronze PSU with lower wattage

An RX 580. Which monitor do you have?

Glad you got it sorted out. Which mobo + RAM kit do you have? Interested to see what kind of compatibility was added. Also is the RAM running at its rated speed or default 2400?

Best if it's from Aliexpress.

pcpartpicker.com/list/fdTLzM

first time building, starting from scratch. any thoughts?

...

Get a used monitor, you could probably save about $40 on the power supply if you were ok with a tiny bit less power or less efficiency. If you are a student you could consider using the student discount at WD's own store to save about 20 on the SSD.

I'm re-building an FX 8370 rig with a GTX 960 Ti. These are the thermal compound I have on hand. What would Sup Forums use?

Ideally I want to push a strong overclock on both CPU & GPU, so was also considering re-setting the cooling block on the GPU (it's been in use for a bit over two years now). Any reason these compounds wouldn't be a good idea for that? Any other considerations I'm missing?

Would a 1300X bottleneck an RX 580?

are ryzen cpus all basically the same with the exception of binning (how high you can take the core frequencies) and how many cores are enabled? Will an r3 1200 perform the same as an r5 1600 assuming same amount of cores and voltage?

I'd ditch the soundcard and possibly consider a more expensive motherboard with built in WiFi if you really need it. Also those speakers are meh and just affirm that you really don't need a soundcard.

Yea, if you disabled cores on the 1600 and matched the clocks the 1200 would basically preform the same.

pcpartpicker.com/list/FkrgkT

No clue if the cooler or the psu could be better/cheaper, but overall a well put together pc? Will be used for gaming, coding, and MIDIs

>low wattage PSU
> under $100

What's your definition of "low wattage?" You can find, with great ease, a Seasonic or an EVGA 750 Gold PSU for ~$80. For $100 you might be able to find a Platinum, or an 850 Gold.

I just bought a 650 watt Seasonic Gold for $47 off Newegg about three weeks ago, and that's "pretty low wattage" for any modern system with a single video card ... it's actually about 150 watts of overkill, with 3 x 4 TB HDDs and a 512 GB SSD supporting a GTX 1050 Ti and an FX 8350 overclocked to 4.5 GHz, + 3 x 120 mm case fans and 2 x 140 mm PWM fans.

i do have Sennheiser headphones which i think warrants better than on-board audio. i wanted the speakers cause are really cheap for 5.1, but i'll take your word for it. as for on-board wi-fi, i've yet to meet someone who was satisfied with it

1060 6GB is a little weak for 1440p
Doubt you need a sound card
Consider m.2 just for the form factor
Monitor is meh for gaming

I don't think the thermal paste you use is going to make much of a difference

No, but consider the R3 1200. You should OC any R3 to have a better shot at getting 60FPS locked in any game

Assuming you've disabled SMT and two cores on the 1600 and set the clockspeeds the same, the performance will be close. There's a slight difference because of L2 and L3 cache size

If you're wondering about possible clockspeeds at certain voltages, it's down to the silicon lottery in that some 1200s are the absolute worst chips but others were just cut down to have some to sell. You have a higher probability of getting a better chip through the binning process

Ryzen 1700 @ 3.8/1.325v (didn't won the lottery) on 4+2 is a bad idea?
Mortar btw.

What went wrong with vega

8700k build.

Its ok.
The chokes and mosfets are actually rated to work comfy anywhere under 180C so relax.

If you're paranoid then make sure you have enough airflow in the case and that the mosfet heatsinks are well mounted on thermal paste/glue.
You might even want to buy some small sheap copper sinks and termal glue them on the mosfets but that os redundant.

Worst case scenario your MOBO will kick it after years of service and you will get a new better one for 50$

>thermal paste

Yeah, agreed. Especially for stock clocks. I'm flipping a coin between the Ceramique & the MX-2 because I'm certain they are non-conductive.

The question arose because I want to find the highest overclock the CPU & GPU can take, then maybe back off a single click and they'll probably be run at those clocks until the system blows up ... hopefully in more than three (or five) years from now.

These are tubes I've had stored nose-down in a cool closet for about three years, so they should be "as new." The Arctic Silver 5 is the only one I thought might separate a bit.

One thing I'm hating is that the GPU (an MSI card) has a small sticker glued across the cooling block screws that says "Warranty void if removed." I'll probably skip re-setting the GPU cooling block unless I'm really unhappy with the performance. New thermal goo probably can't buy me another 100 MHz, so might as well keep the warranty valid for the remaining 10 or 11 months on it.

Is a 250 watt PSU enough for a gtx 1050 ti and i5 6400?

>no i7 7700/K
why?

Get at least 3000MHz RAM
Get a lower wattage PSU
8700K + 1060 is likely a bad pairing. You should probably drop to a cheaper CPU like the i5 8400 or get a better graphics card and possibly monitor

i7 8700/K is out for almost the same prices

Yeah, but barely.. probably not a good quality PSU and you're going to be pushing it

pcpartpicker.com/list/K4Wpf8
thanks for the input on the cpu
every time I choose a monitor, though, someone here tells me my choice is garbage so I have no idea what to look for
what 1080 60Hz monitor do people recommend?

thanks for the power supply info

and just to double check, this build still makes sense as a mid- to high-level gaming pc? not looking for ultra graphics or 100+fps

I'd consider finding a case for half that price and investing the money in a better GPU. Also, if you're not going to run extreme overclock or add a second card, a 750 W PSU will cover you fine. Again, money saved there can be put into a better GPU. With those two savings, you potentially can be looking at $00 or even $410 budget for the GPU. Corsair is somewhat meme-y; while good product (usually), they are also a bit costly for that name. Look for Seasonic or EVGA to get just as good (or better) for a little less.

I don't know the AUS market these days, but that seems a tad high for the RAM at 2666. Seems you should get 3200 for that price, or spend at least $20 less for 2666 speed. G,SKILL Ripjaws V is certainly very solid tech, though, so if that's what your market is down there then they should never give you grief. You might even be able to overclock them a solid notch or three with luck.

2666 is bare mimimum, not paying 400 for overpriced ram.

1060 will be fine, but will bottle neck on max settings.

Will buy new gpu down the line and sell 1060.

Noctua is good, but the meme is strong for the name.

Consider something like:
- newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=9SIA66Z28G7122

I picked one of those up on sale for $35 USD this summer. Using a PWM splitter that takes the speed of one fan as a master and then adjusts the speed of both fans, I used a 120 mm fan I had on hand as the master and push fan and mounted the provided 140 mm fan as the pull fan. Pretty silent and I keep an FX 8370 at 4.7 GHz in the 50°C-55°C range for a lot of fairly heavy use. Even burning it in under Prime95 it stayed under 70°C.

Just saying. With some brain power, you can save some cash for better application elsewhere.

Updated it once more, changed for 3200 ddr4 ram, and a new monitor.

I'll use my old 800w corsair psu and my old case which is a HAF 932 . 1060 is raming the same.

amazon.com/gp/product/B01N1KKKO5/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00?ie=UTF8&th=1

came out early this year , is essentially the pro without the stupid bright light and at a very reasonable price

anyone own this:? plan on cooling my i7-4770K but I do plan to upgrade very soon so hopefully someone with a newer gen can tell me if it keeps their temps relatively cool. I heard newer intel cpus are hot out the box idling at 60c

Wheres that list of good PSUs with all japanese transistors and suh?

No

solid, but you can get slightly better ram for cheaper, a 1070 ti for the same price, a better case, and a lower wattage psu that isn't overkill for your build.

pcpartpicker.com/list/L2dkVY

where can I find a cheap mobo + cpu bundle for a NAS/server?

>tfw getting more into gayming
>no money to build a pc, only have a mac
rip in peace sweet prince

Plan build,
Go to Sup Forums
see >NO i5 7500/7600K or i7 7700/K
Build has i7 7700/K
oh well.
Please rate, and/or give a good reason why i would need to change plans to coffee lake.
Still unsure if i want a new case or to keep my coolermaster HAF

pcpartpicker.com/list/dfWpf8

Kaby lake is now so old and deprecated and finished that no one even remembers what it is.

Yes, it's more than enough.

why am i feeling a windows vista-esque vibe from coffee lake
i feel like people will half forget about it and think it'll be the worst thing ever in a couple months
not like a depreciation in technology, but more of a repressed memory kind of thing

>mfw sold my mbp on ebay for premium
>mfw sold my iphone 6 on ebay for premium
>mfw built a nice desktop
>mfw bought a comfy android phone
>mfw I still had hundreds left over
>mfw I invested the extra sheckles in bitcoin last year
Literally the only intelligent thing I've ever done with my life.

Just 23-25" 1080p IPS. I don't think there's a recommended model for something that basic.

>this build still makes sense as a mid- to high-level gaming pc?
Yes

Don't forget to check version / update your BIOS

You really should get the i5 though if you're using a 1060. i5 can max any game

Strange fantasies you have.

>give a good reason why i would need to change plans to coffee lake
Eh, you were warned. I'm not here to spoonfeed

rate my first build?
open box i5 and 1070. saving about $200 after discounts and rebatin'

The 8600k is both cheaper and faster.

Guys I just built this and it's black screened twice now while gayming. I don't know why though? When I was benching it the CPU and GPU seemed to max out within the acceptable temp threshold. I'm using the stock ryzen cooler and a 450 watt PSU. I'm about to update the bios and try to enable DOCP because my 2666hz RAM wont go above 1064.

Plz help.

Update BIOS as you said, don't forget speccy will show 1333 for RAM when you have it running at 2666.

Nice, but needs a better monitor

oh yeah, I meant 2133.

first draft of my first build any help is appreciated.


pcpartpicker.com/list/

what's your budget and what are you going to use your pc for?

How long will 4790k, 980Ti, 32GB memory stay high end?

>You really should get the i5 though if you're using a 1060. i5 can max any game

I'm slight autism when it comes to something i made my mind up at already. I know if i get the I5 i will regret it down the line.

Where with the I7 all i need is a new GPU and it will smash anything and last for years ( still using my 2600k).

>tfw used swagbucks to essentially build a new ryzen for free with amazon gift cards

feels good man

2-3 more years.

I have a 4th gen intel i7

Should I upgrade to a ryzen 7 yes or No? I'm not a overclocker I just play games , stream surf the web sometimes all at once

for your needs it would make sense. what's your budget?

Same guy here, so I'm curious what everyone here does with the old parts? Do people even buy things like an I5 750 anymore? I've also got a 3770 and now a 2600k that will collect dust. Mutiple mobos, ram, and 2 graphic cards.

I even still have my 9800gtx+ with original boxing.

no budget skys the limit

You could build a server that you could use for backups/media. At least that's what I'm planning on doing with my current computer when I build my next PC. If you truly have no use for it then yeah, selling is a good option. I'd recommend whatever your country's equivalent of Craigslist is because eBay has become more buyer-friendly lately.

pcpartpicker.com/list/sXsT6X

About two weeks ago I asked about my PC.
It would boot up, start the fans and lights, then do nothing.
I replaced the PSU, and now it boots up, starts the fans and lights, and then reboots and repeats.
After much fiddling, the guys as the repair service I sent it to discovered it actually works fine outside of the case. Assembled on a pizza box, the PC boots normally.
So the case itself is shorting the motherboard and the PSU is aborting to preserve it or some such nonsense.

Troubleshooting is always hell when the problem is some non-PC specific electricity issue that actually requires a technician and not a hobbyist.

okay you win I'll rephrase it

since new chips require new mobos I'm most likely just upgrading my mobo , ram and finally the cpu while keeping everything down to my gtx 980

Run distributed computing projects and seed information that presents positive opportunities for society like GNU/Linux distros, papers, and free eBooks.

just save your money and do a full upgrade next year.

What should I look for in an SSD?

It already isn't enough for many games if you want constant 60fps. I'd honestly go with a 1070ti or a 1080 at least.

t. 1440p/1070 owner

samsung makes the best ssds. the 850 evo is the best for non-professional use.

Price and effective read/write. If you can live with your read/writes being slightly slower you can save a bit of money by not buying a 850 evo. If you really prioritize that marginal performance gain then just go with it. It doesn't cost entirely too much more than the competition.

why the fuck does moving my mouse cursor fast raise the temperature of my motherboard by 3 degrees?

jej

Did you make an HD movie your cursor?

Saw a GTX 1080 ZOTAC reference card on sale for a bit above £400, it's new, so should I go for it?

pls help

i dont understand

that's a really good deal, even if it is a reference card. i'd go for it.

Sure if these prices are accurate.

uk.pcpartpicker.com/products/video-card/#c=367&sort=price&page=1

Is a one big RAM or multiple smaller ones better?

I am wondering between HX426C15FB/8 x2, HX421C14FB/16 and HX421C14FB2K2/16 (two RAMs sold together). With the first one being the fastest at 2600.

How does a 1080ti compare to the Rx Vega 64?

R8 my build for midrange gaming:

de.pcpartpicker.com/list/sJz3hq

I can get the 3gb 1060 for 179€ at the moment, which is 90€ cheaper than the next 6gb.

is there any possibility that a windows 10 update is making my cpu and mobo run a little hotter than before?

always try to buy ram kits together.

the 1080 ti is significantly better. the vega 64 is more comparable to the 1080, or even 1070 ti.

So you are saying I should buy the 2100 "kit" that is being sold together or it it a general statement? Because getting two HX426C15FB/8, which are faster, would actually be cheaper. The HX421C14FB/16 is even cheaper.

>still using my 2600k

Unless the cpu or board are shitting the bed, I'd keep it for now and go ham on the gpu, there was even an article this week showing it only really falls behind the 8700k outside gaming. If you really want, you could grab an used 3770k and just drop it in, but it shouldn't be necessary.

EVGA 600 B1 100-B1-0600-KR 80+ BRONZE 600W Includes FREE Power On Self Tester
- newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=17-438-014

$42 including delivery charge, if the rebate is honored then it's $32 for 600 watt Bronze EVGA PSU.

Crucial mx300. Watch for sales and it's difficult to find anything at that capacity plus price plus performance. Not saying you can't do better, but it's hard. Look up this model and study it's specs to compare to anything else you find.

Also, you didn't specify if you wanted a regular STA III SSD or one of the PCIe crazy fast SSDs. Pro-tip: you REALLY don't need the speed of a PCIe SSD, but that's your money to spend.

I recommended my friend for his newest build a GTX 1080Ti and a Ryzen 7 1700X compared with 16GB 3200 RAM, compatible with it, and a decent X370 Board.

Is it any good and future-proof?

general statement, but i just looked up the ram prices and you're overpaying for that speed and latency. do you use pcpartpicker?

its fantastic, but overkill. 1700 and 1700x are the same chip. buy the former, as its cheaper and comes with a fantastic stock cooler. x370 boards are only good if you're trying to push your chip to its absolute limits. the 1080 ti is unecessary for 1080p and lower, so unless he's gaming in 1440p or 4k, there's simply no point.

That's a powerful rig. Does he need something that crazy powerful? Lot of money if he doesn't need all that.

If he doesn't need the features of the 370 board, shop for a 350 that covers his needs and save $50 or more. If he wants/needs the rest of the specs you posted, he'll want a 750 W Platinum PSU to push as much overclock as all the components can handle. So long as he uses only a single GPU, 750 W max; a 700 W (or even as low as a 650 W) would be enough. There are 660, 680 and 720 watt models, platinum is ideal, but gold certified should also be plenty.

Your friend do heavy work loads besides gaming alot or just alot of game + stream? 8 core is a tad overkill considering I saw a friend on mine killing HOI4 with i7-6800k with SLI GTX 1080.

Surely you could tell your friend to drop down to a R5 1600. Still really good value, much cheaper than R7 and will still kick ass without being the bottleneck. .......Unless what I said before was true that your friend likes to tax the eight core.

You've advised your friend to spend a lot of money. The other responses hit all the major points to consider. Does your friend like throwing money away? What would he use such a system for?

If he really wants to maximum overclock, then the 1700x is worth the extra $30 or so. Invest in a quality water cooler and he might get lucky and break into 4.1 GHz territory. If he can really put that much performance to good use.


> future-proof
Meme buzzword. Everything is obsolete in 6-8 months. If your friend likes to get maximum performance out of his hardware and likes to spend time learning how to get the most out of it, then it would have a solid 5 year life, then retired to some sort of server/web browser after that.

Well, he got a FX-8350 and a R9 290 from before, so the PSU shouldnt be the problem.

Also he games in 1440p and wanted a system being upgradable and long-lasting. And I think this is somewhat like it.

>obsolete
Well, some other guys of mine are playing games like Bf1 on medium to high on 6 year old rigs. Only thing they changed were the grafic cards ...
Also, he got a water cooling system. A PC is meant to at least last for 2-3 years. If you need to upgrade faster, I consider the PC not "future-proof"

So are Ryzen mobos still shit or am I getting memed on?

My Asrock AB350m keeps underclocking and locking my 1600x to 2.1mhz on boot or coming out of sleep mode. Only way to fix it is to boot into bios and turn Cool and Quiet on and off. It's getting real annoying.