Old tech that keeps on teching

So granted this isn't super old....but I just restored a bunch of uncompressed photos from an archive I made 7 years ago prior to a deployment to the sandbox.

I'm happy that after 7 years in storage it still worked perfectly.

Also I'm a bit of a fan of the old SATA to USB2 controllers Seagate used to use in their portable drives. The sucker works on all the 2.5" drives I've messed with and I use em to access data off all the random raw sata drives I have (I have quite a few).

Other urls found in this thread:

ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1dtkpPXXXXXaEXFXXq6xXFXXXe/Cablecc-CY-ESATA-USB-combo-DUAL-Power-ESATA-4pin-IDE-Power-to-SATA-22P-7-15pin.jpg
ebay.com/itm/USB-3-0-to-SATA-HDD-IDE-Triple-Bay-2-5-3-5-inch-Hard-Drive-Card-Dock-Station-HUB/152632184229?hash=item2389964da5:m:m15MyKLv1BY3HSMqNhDg5rA
twitter.com/AnonBabble

WTF I just realized something looking at the pic. I pulled the drive from an originally brand new portable HD years ago obviously...but its a fucking recertified drive (aka refurbished). Sneaky fuckers...

Topkek m8

>not freezing your hard drive

>buy my first computer in 01'
>celeron 1GHz, 20gb HDD, GeForce 2, 128MB of RAM
>case alone weighs like 20kg
>gets dropped out of second floor window on concrete
>works

>get new one in 07'
>has 8800GTS, overclock it
>keep power supply that came with case
>occasional weird graphical glitches
>whatever
>glitching becomes more frequent and worse with time
>computer starts turning off randomly
>too lazy to check it out
>one day in 08' I suddenly smell something burning
>flames shooting out of back of case
>unplug it
>flames die down
>go buy new gpu and power supply
>typing this on the same pc

My 11 or so years old xbox 360 20gb hard drive still werks sometimes. Takes a while to warm up and boot properly else it just clicks endlessly, probably has troubles reading the firmware section of the disk when it's cool. Use it to run and install live OSes.

I've got a Dell C840 from 2003 that I use for Touhou. I also put Office 2003 and Visual C# 2005 Express on it for maximum comfy. Before I reformatted it, I did run into some filesystem corruption that propagated until critical system files were missing, but it seems to work okay now.

>SATA to USB adapter
Best $5 I've ever spent on a Sup Forums related product. Plastic casing snapped off but it still works.

Bought an ipod shuffle over a decade ago, still works great despite getting the shit kicked out of it. Still use it to listen to music when going somewhere in the morning, for some reason I prefer it over listening to music on my phone. Also learned what a piece of shit itunes is in the process.

Also found a 15yo WD HDD in my moldy basement, got some old 640X480 HS pics I thought I've lost and some shitty MIDI files I've made back then.

Im running eSATAp these days, it accommodates for 12v and 5v, can access smart data, even works with cd drives and supports commands like eject.

All I have is eSATA and a SATA power wall adapter. It at least meets a few US compliance standards so it hasn't blown any drives yet.

Going to snag one of these instead.

>It at least meets a few US compliance standards so it hasn't blown any drives yet.
whut?
why would it blow up a device? the cable only goes in one way and the 5v and 12v are isolated on the esata end and the sata power has pins for 3.3, 5, 12v, and ground as part of its standard.

>going to snag one of these
fair warning, watch out for cheap shit. I had to import one from china and I still don't fully trust it. I md5 check every transfer, still haven't found a bad copy. I have noticed something in one of my 10 year old drives smart records that indicates read/write problems. I need to do more testing before I can say my particular card is troublesome or not. Build quality was impressive for being chink shit, but the caps were bottom of the barrel and I expected better quality components for a $30 import.
I wont plug my new >$200 drives into it, but that rule would stand for any cheap sata adapter.

I use ZFS and BTRFS on everything so I don't think it will matter to me.

I'll just shrug off any corruption without even noticing when I can occupy both esata ports.

cool. Im still on ext4 and havnt gotten around to looking up other stuff.
Im extremely paranoid and have a feeling that chink shit will somehow put out bad voltage levels or fail in some way that will damage the slave drives controllers or something, but once again I have problems.
It supposedly is using the JMicron Technology Corp. JMB363 chipset which is also used in some name brand motherboards, its sata II which isnt an issue for me since ssds are going to be on the internal sata ports anyway.
If speed is an issue for you, make sure you check its read write speed before buying.
its super comfy being able to plug in a 5.25" disk drive like its a usb device.

a second note though, even though it has its own sata controller and devices in an os show up like they were pluged into the motherboard, my z170 bios isnt recognizing this in the drive options, they they are bootable, I cant add them to raid.

>Ruining it with ESD.

I have similar problem.
I have an old IDE HDD that have some valuable data.
I bought pic related, but reviews are making me scared to use it.
Any advice you can give me?
The computer that housed the HDD still run with it's power supply but for some reason it shut down at random, and I couldn't figure what causing it, but I guess bad mobo is the cause.

Where do I get this?

I have a few xbox original that I chipped and modded which all do work even thought I did have to replace the time capacitors leaking.

you need an esatap interface, you can buy a pcie card (will need a power cable attached obviously) for $15-50 usd. Ive only found chink ones still in productoin.
The cable you can get for a couple dollars.

its all on amazon, newegg, banggood, ebay.
usb 3 killed this interface, even though its superior for drives, its like using betamax.
I have no regrets buying it though.

Oh, I should have mentioned I have T420.
It should be eSATA not sure if it's powered or not though.

esata was more common than esatap, and iirc they had a different connector.
If you look at my picture of the cable, youll see a gold thing on the side. there are two of them on the opposite sides of the p cable, these are the 5v and 12v power sources.
If you REALLY want this and are competant with a soldering iron, then anything is possible. As far as I know, there may be an express card adapter for esata that has a wallwart for the 12v source.

with that being said, there were a few computers and laptops that were graced with the eSATAp port. unfortunately not enough people know what the fuck it was and treated neglected it like it was firewire.

looks like your best bet would be pic related + a wall powered sata plug, at which point you might aswell use usb 3.0.

also just looked at the wiki for thinkpads and it says the t420 has a usb+esata combo.
I dont recall if this supplies the 5v source or just an external sata connector. either way, this port will do the same thing the card I display will(probably).

>Wall powered sata plug
Any recommendations?
I could only find a chink power adapter and I'm hesitant to use it.

yea it looks like its just a sata port, youll need an esata cable and a wall satapower source.
laptop harddrives run off 5v, so iirc there are esata cables that have a usb plug on them.
full sized harddrives and disk drives require 12v.
youll want to get pic related for ssds and laptop harddrives,
and something like the following link for desktop harddrives
ae01.alicdn.com/kf/HTB1dtkpPXXXXXaEXFXXq6xXFXXXe/Cablecc-CY-ESATA-USB-combo-DUAL-Power-ESATA-4pin-IDE-Power-to-SATA-22P-7-15pin.jpg

these should work with the port on your laptop.

There is IDE docks, like ebay.com/itm/USB-3-0-to-SATA-HDD-IDE-Triple-Bay-2-5-3-5-inch-Hard-Drive-Card-Dock-Station-HUB/152632184229?hash=item2389964da5:m:m15MyKLv1BY3HSMqNhDg5rA

>I could only find a chink power adapter
youre venturing into the nigger rigging territories at this point.
honestly, its pretty hard to fuck this up. worst case scenario the mains voltage level to 12v conversion is done the cheap and dirty route and a power surge takes out your drive. or catches on fire.
if you want to go a paranoid route, get something like this and find a 12v source from something you trust.

But now you are getting into the second level of nigger rigging and this is SERIOUSLY not advised unless you know what you are doing.
if you get one of these things, you better hope to god that wire goes to a 12v pin and not the 5v.
also I dont even know if a drive can run off of just 12v. I figure some of the chips might need 5v to run.

Now that I think about it, you can get or just cut a sata power connector off of an old power supply and wire in a usb plug for 5v and a barrel plug for the 12v.
Unless you need sata things like smart and eject commands I wouldn't bother going to these extremes(if I were another person).

>youll want to get pic related
And it would supply 12v on that malox cable?

it will supply whatever the fuck you put on the barrel plug.
itll deliver 15,000 volts if you put in on a cars ignitoin coil.

check out the sata pin outs and test it to make sure the wire only connects to the 12v pins andthe ground pins, and make sure the barrel plug of whatever you source power from has the ground and positive positioned correctly. sometimes ground is on the outside, sometimes its on the inside. this kills the drive.
also note that the one pictured has a male barrel plug. these are usually reserved for power source... fuck Im retarded. this is a cable to take a computers power supply and turn it into a barrel source.
you need the reverse of this cable.
honestly dude, Id just buy the chink one. its not going to by much more sketchy than any sata to usb supply you get off amazon.

(You)
this is the reverse of the cable, note the female sata power connector, or atlest what I think is the female one, AND the female barrel plug.
female barrel plugs usually get power, males give power.

but once again, does it go to the 5v pin or the 12v pin? I have no clue. there is a chance they dont even know. thats why I say get a multimeter and find out for yourself.

dude really, (and please understand im not being a dick) if you have to ask if what a cable does and cant tell by looking at it, then you really shouldnt use it. Do you see all of the contacts on the sata power connector? they all do different things. you cant just pump random power into random places and not expect it to blow up.

Bought this black ipod video in the middle in 2007.

>jog with it all the time, getting it sweaty and sometimes rained on.
>occasionally drop it
>eventually get sick of itunes horseshit and learn of rockbox.
>install it
>change the battery out in 2015 even though it still held about half charge
>glue worn out, ipod case fell apart and the headphone jack ribbon cable snapped
>finally fixed it last week with a new one and some fresh adhesive for under $10
>good2go

My fave apple product of all time

they come with a case most of the time

I have a couple iPod Classics that I still use in my cars.