The 3 pads on my USB came off the pcb...

The 3 pads on my USB came off the pcb. I need more help finding where to scrape off new traces for each of the 3 leads Sup Forumsuys to restore my usb.

It's fucked
Send it into data recovery service

cmon d00d

Is how it looks to me.

You have to cut out a really small piece of lead from a sheet than gently solder it onto the board and the connector lead.

I remember seeing a video where a technician who specializes in vintage computing device repair demoed this technique.

Basically, you'll be out dozens to hundreds of dollars by the time you're done.

>he kept important, non-backed up data on a shitty chinkshit USB stick

lmao @ ur life dood.

those are surfaced mount soldering pads.

google "surface mount soldering" and read/watch some guide or tutorial.

basically you need some equipment and a precise hand

>he doesn't keep all of his important shit on a stack of old 8" floppies and nowhere else

shit i thought this was my usb

he knows how to do it or he wouldnt be talking about scraping the solder mask off the traces
aaaaaa

What the fuck was you doing to manage that? Twisting it in the USB slot?

Can you solder? Get some fine wire and bypass the traces entirely.

If you don't know how to solder and the data is very important, find someone that can.

>bypassing that capacitor

Ah fuck didn't see that.

these two circuits are not functionally different

do you guys use robots to fucking scrape this shit off
my hands are too spazzy

x-acto knife or you could use a dremel in one of those drill press holders with a grinding bit if you want to be super fancy. it's easy man just take a shot or something if you really can't keep your hands from shaking

They are.

That capacitor will smooth out power fluctuations to the chip in the first circuit and not in the second, which means that if your supply isn't smooth enough the chip may reset or act funny which will be bad for using the drive.

it will smooth the power in the second in exactly the same fashion. I don't have a scope here or I'd build it and show you

It's the same node, if there's gonna be a difference in performance it will be because of the big wire he's going to use (which is still not very significant)

jesus christ it saddens me greatly that kids these days are this retarded when it comes to basic electronics. You fucking scratch away the board masking on the traces going to the respect pins and solder on to them higher up on the trace where you scratched it away.

Id just solder jumper wire from the traces origin to the connector.

rofl
>just take a shot

I can scrape the shit off fine, idk how you guys solder shit so small
smallest thing I can do is like 24 gauge wire

very bad idea, stay away from components as much as you can with a soldering iron. because of temp sensitive components, smaller area to solder on to with bridging chances higher, and this will likely be a newfag doing this so they will probably mess it up.

how about googling the chip name and hoping to find some pinout description? I cant read it from your pics

dont fucking do it like that, its the most autistic risky way.
do

is everyone this retarded and incapable on Sup Forums

>temp sensitive components

That's all surface mount stuff that has to go through a reflow oven, I doubt that is going to be an issue here. Well assuming you don't rest the iron directly on the components.

just trying to help your fucking nigger ass and yes the absolute state of Sup Forums is actually worse. many wouldnt even dare to touch a soldering iron, we Sup Forumseddit now

No. Because the first it has to go through the capacitor to get to the pin on the chip, the second it doesn't.

Effectively they're in parallel in the second, and series in the first.

it sounds funny but i learned that trick from an old guy on a web forum and i'll be danged if it doesnt work lol

no shit its reflowed on.
That does not change the fact that a silicon component especially can be temperature sensitive. Also it is just bad practice to do more unnecessary things to a broken board when repairing it. Especially in this case where there is a correct and simple way to fix it and that a kid with likely no experience in simple soldering is doing it, hence why we want to do this a safer less fuck up prone way.

irrelevant info
just fucking solder it properly

I don't disagree with anything else you said in your post just the fact that you would refer to it as temperature sensitive.

>temp sensitive component

Most of these flash memory controller arent that sensitive. At least not anymore.

i think this might make what's going on a bit clearer

trust me you can kill silicon components with enough heat. Reflow is quick enough to not be damaging. You at the very least can effectively wipe the storage on that controller chip making it fucked and unable to function even though it still could accept a re-flash and work fine. That is why you probably are not understanding what i am saying.

>more irrelevant info

i'm not trying to help the OP i'm trying to prove that i'm right

I see you are confused.

Electrons flow negative to positive but current flows positive to negative.

So your directional arrows pointing towards the +5v are in the wrong direction. It makes a difference.

JESUS CHRIST AAAHHHHH I WANTED TO START WATCHING ANIME 45 MINUTES AGO

IT IS AN UNPOLARIZED CAPACITOR YOU TIT

EVEN IFFFF IFFFFFFFFF MOVING IT ALONG THE TRACE MADE IT OPERATE SOMEHOW DIFFERENTLY

THE POLARITY WOULD NOT MATTER

YOU NINNY

You see, the thing is that when there is a capacitor on a circuit it fills up before power starts passing it.
Because you're putting it in parallel with the chip it's possible that the draw of the capacitor will cause the chip to fail starting up properly or crash meaning that there will be instability.

kys child that has to announce they watch anime to try and look cool. Grow up quite literally.

oh please stop ohhhh

I've only put the tip in, and just for a minute.
Bear with it.

can you see that this is true

electricity works the same way

Assuming that the inward pressure is not high enough to bypass the balloon on the second one then on the second the balloon will fill first and then overflow to the tap on the second, but fill both at roughly half rate until the balloon is full on the first.

Basically, they're different.

i dont know if this is a fluid dynamics thing or what but please imagine that this is a perfect world where turbulence doesn't happen. the only difference between the two circuits is a tiny (negligible!) resistance due to a few millimeters of copper wire. there is no difference. the capacitor is in parallel with the chip in both circuits. the current does not have to "get past" it because there is no break in conductivity between the input and output pins. it is on a "branch" from the main circuit in both cases. the capacitor allows high frequency noise an easier path to ground than passing through the chip (which it will take! regardless of if the capacitor is a few mm to one side or another!), while blocking DC voltage. it literally does not matter where it is located. it could be inside of a usb cable plugged into the board and the port. it will function the same way!

Fucking idiots.

The two circuits are IDENTICAL. The resistance of the wire is absolutely negligible. Node A is at the same potential in both cases. R_ni represents the output impedance/nonideality of the power supply.

The voltage across the capacitor and the voltage across the device under test (assuming it is referenced to the same ground as the cap) are the same. If V_s is 0, then V_cap is 0. The moment V_s switches to 5v, the cap and the device charge to 5v.

The cap doesn't have some latent charge on it. Unless you have a large capacitor or really high voltage it effectively has 0 coulombs of charge stored it when voltage isn't being applied.

The power supply will provide as much current as is needed to maintain its set output voltage. If that sags, it drives the output harder. If it spikes, it will back on it. Basic feedback.

thread derails
/thread

You know what, at this point I don't care.

OP can solder onto the chip like you suggest and fuck his shit up, or solder onto the trace before the capacitor and probably fuck his shit up anyway.

>cannot into circuit theory

This is bait. But anyways, that cap is for smoothing power to the IC so the "functionality" of both those pics are different.

move the nand chip to to an identical board, then desolder the pads on that new board, move the nand chip back to the original board.. then ask Sup Forums if they know. should be able to just post a thread

...

/diy/ is truly the superior board

get the knife.... scalpel... something sharp.
scrape lacker from "wires" that you need to connect.

and solder small pieces of wire or try to connect them big blob of solder.

yeah you are totally right.
its easy like 5 minutes fix.