/hsg/ - Home Server General

The thread will die if OP can't bump edition.
Also OP is a fucking retard edition.

Bump from time to time mates.

--> Quick Questions Quick Replies Why would I want a NAS/Homeserver?
If you ask why then you don't need it.

>I want a NAS/HTPC/Plex what should I get?
RPi3 or Odroid XU4/HC1.

>B-But muh ARM
Then check the onboard x86 like the J1900 or J3455 chipped ones.

>What's the best [software] for doing [ask]?
Specify you question and elaborate. If you want help put something from your side.

>Which disk is better for my homeserver?
The general opinion minus some details are that WD Greens are enough if you deactivate parkdrive, and WD Red are green overpriced. Also Toshiba and HGST are pretty good.

---> FAQ & Tips Old Thread

Other urls found in this thread:

pduwhips.com/products/1956-c20-to-l6-30r-plug-adapter.aspx
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

Also I apologize for being a dipshit who always forget the field where he types the subject.

Seriously though, why would I want a NAS/Homeserver?

And what is a NAS?

This thing on the right is a NAS.

Basically an external hard drive on crack. Can be 1 or more hard drives in a box that makes the files available to multiple users over the network. Usually in some form of RAID setup for increased reliability.

>>Why would I want a NAS/Homeserver?
>If you ask why then you don't need it.
Cmon man, maybe I don't know I want it? Maybe if you tell me the pros of it I will want it? Will a home server make me more productive? Is a NAS the ultimate solution for backup? Am I going to learn a lot by having a home server?

Thing is all of that questions are yes and no. This is like buying a car. You don't just buy a car because yes (or at least you shouldn't). Usually you buy it for moving on it. Although some people lives in it, other ones likes the mechanical matters on them etc etc.

Tell me how to get started on equipping my fileserver with 10GbE, I need a fanless switch since it's going in my room.

Not him, but it's obvious you don't need one either or understands what they are really for.

>Usually in some form of RAID setup for increased reliability.
Redundancy, not reliability. As always, remember that RAID is not a form of backup. Always make sure you have a 2nd copy of your important files somewhere else. Storage is cheap.

Copper or fiber?

Guys I need some help. Looking to step up my file server game (from basically nothing as of now).

Spend money on a Synology NAS or use HDD-passthrough to a virtual Windows Server? Are the perks of using a dedicated physical host worth it or should I just use a VM?

Whatever's cheaper, all the hardware is in 3 feet of eachother.

Is it a good idea to run a home server with Arch? I'm familiar with it and it's lightweight. It would be on a raspberry pi 3

No you idiot, unless you feel like fixing it every week.

no

hahaha why though? Because it's rolling release?

>hey guys is it a good idea to run this machine meant to be up 24/7 and stable for months with the single most UNSTABLE distribution out there hehehe xxxdeeee4dawin

Brain Damage

Copper it is then, you can buy a decent intel card for 140 bucks and both Qnap and Synology have the ports on their shit already unless you want to make your own then you buy two of the cards.

Memes aside, is Arch really unstable? I don't feel like it's true

>buy a decent intel card for 140 bucks
Which ones exactly?

Getting a UPS for you server is a good investment. Protects against Surges/Spikes. Can safely shutdown your server during power failure which helps prevent data corruption/raid rebuilds. Don't try for the whole "1 Hr+ uptime during power fail" thing, proper shutdown is key.

UPS has saved me many times, recently power flickered twice, both times lasted maybe 3 min, server kept right on working. to it, nothing was wrong. no raid rebuilds, no chance of data corruption. Will UPS prevent data corruption? No, but if you use it with Raid + Backup you should eliminate 95% of what causes it. The remaining 5% is for stuff we can't control.

Redundancy results in reliability in the form of higher uptimes...

I think we need to discuss if he is going Base T copper of DAC/SFP copper as well...

If the hardware is close there's no need to get anything but SFP

Did I do good?

>Elpida

Lmao

Use Debian.

>I want a NAS/HTPC/Plex what should I get?
RPi3 or Odroid XU4/HC1.

I only get 10mbps with Raspberry 3, is that normal?
I'm using Open Media Vault

any tweak that you would recommend?

Just a friendly reminder :- Depending on the compression rate used + overhead expect it to take around 22 hrs if your transferring 11TB over GB Ethernet. This assumes your doing a "Full image" Data backup. Incremental backup will take less time but you gotta have a "Full" image first. Also, if the worst should happen remember it'll take 22 hrs to restore it all to.

if you have to ask, then no.

This is the kind of tips I come to this thread for. Thanks.

Rpi3 can be relatively slow, sure.

If possible only connect the usb drive on usb.

That isnt what you should be apologizing for. You should be apologizing for your retarded lists.

There likely are no fanless switches which can do line rate. Cisco Catalyst 3750E/3650Es are pretty quiet tho. If you're that autistic about noise just use direct connections.

>you can buy a decent intel card for 140 bucks
10GbE NICs cost far less than $140

>Getting a UPS for you server is a good investment. Protects against Surges/Spikes. Can safely shutdown your server during power failure which helps prevent data corruption/raid rebuilds
Except when it catches fire, pic related. Now I get to buy 2 UPSes and a ATS.

>DDR2

>3650E
3560E

Good luck on Gen 5 DIMMS.

>we Gen X now nukka

How many watts over the limit were you pushing through that thing?

>1 Hr+ uptime during power fail
If you actually want to pull that off diesel generators exist, though unless you're running critical services (you aren't) there's no real reason for something that overkill.

None. It is impossible to overload that socket. The UPS is rated for 2700 watts and runs off 208V power. That connector is rated for 20 amps, or at 208V over 4000 watts. The UPS would shutdown due to overload long before the socket would melt under normal conditions. Best explanation i've heard is that one of the terminals wasnt crimped properly on the plug.

It fried the relay board. I tried removing it and powering it on. It works fine on battery power but on AC power I can hear arcing noises near the where the input is on the power board. I've been meaning to rinse the board to get any soot off if that is the reason why, and if not then some day get around to replacing the AC capacitors.

1 hour isnt over kill, and unless you own a home you cant run a generator which rules out most people here.

And in case you're wondering what historical power usage on it was, pic related, The flat line on the right should be zero since that is after it caught fire but for whatever reason Data Center Expert just draws the last known value.

Yeah that looks like something else then. At least you won't buy cheap shitty cables next time and your house didn't burn down.

>cheap shitty cables
It was a $50 C20 to L6-30R cable. It wasnt cheap at all

High-quality cables tend not to spontaneously catch fire.

>$50
I guess $44

pduwhips.com/products/1956-c20-to-l6-30r-plug-adapter.aspx

Well the cable wasnt what caught fire, that was the UPS. The cable was just bulged out.

Sounds and looks like bad contact between the terminals on the receptacle and plug causing an arc which then starts a fire.

>Sounds and looks like bad contact between the terminals on the receptacle and plug causing an arc which then starts a fire.
That wouldn't explain You see the scorched part on the left? There were two different areas which had high heat. The C19/C20 socket/plug. And in an area in between input power connector on the relay board on the far left and those two relays.

As I said, the bad crimp was the best explanation I heard, but it doesnt satisfy me, otherwise the area on the left wouldn't be charred.

Arcing results in high voltage backflow on the lines, damaging components far beyond the arc itself. Or the relay might have just switched on and off so quickly that it burned itself out.

Also its hard to see in that pic, but the ground cable wasnt fully seated on the C19. Not exactly thrilled with APC's quality control.

>Or the relay might have just switched on and off so quickly that it burned itself out.
It was never used to switch on/off, those relays are for outlet control, not the ATS or line interactive features which are on the power board. I had a switched PDU plugged in to it for more granular outlet control and more outlets.

Anyways if any of you fags are EEs, do you want to take a guess why I would hear arcing from this area when the UPS tries to run on AC power?

All reddit could tell me was soot was conductive and thats what they thought the cause was. Although there really isnt much there.

Its not

I plan on turning my current PC into a home server and I have a few questions.

What is the smallest / easiest to manage case I can get that can fit my ATX board and 6 hard drives?

What do I need to get a Linux server working for media streaming and storage?

Is it possible to remote desktop / remote control the server?

Is there a way to get it to RIP CDs and DVDs I insert automatically and sort them? ( I don't mind minimal manual sorting if needed )

Thanks anons

>please spoon feed me shopping recommendations

the rest of your questions are even more retarded like
>Is it possible to remote desktop / remote control the server?

I would start with the blue block on the left that looks like a relay. Then take a look at the yellow component near the bottom (relay or IC). The two coils look okay and if they're shorted you would have been able to tell just by looking at them.

Does anyone have an owncloud/nextcloud setup? I've been mulling over a build for awhile, but I also want to do a keep full disk incremental backups of 6 or so devices and I feel like I couldn't do both with a single home server.

This, the caps might have been blown also.

>I would start with the blue block on the left that looks like a relay
Its an capacitor

> Then take a look at the yellow component near the bottom (relay or IC)
Another capacitor

Looking at it again there is a surprisng amount of soot on the blue capacitor. I guess it wouldnt hurt to desolder it and see how much collected underneath it.

>Home Server thread
>dont talk about starting a home server
nice

i didnt say it wasnt server related, although the last question isnt. it is things which could be easily answered with a few searches

> can't actually identify components
> thinks he's qualified to comment
Fucking consumershit faggots.

Fuck that "hurr capacitor" meme, they are polycaps, they will outlast religion.

You are likely hearing coil whine from the inductor behind the blue polycap. best way to check is to roll up a piece of paper into a long thin trumpet shape, put the narrow end to your ear and scan around the board with the open end till you hear the noise. The component underneath is your culprit.

Come visit us on /diy/ sometime. We can into electronics much better than the dipshits of Sup Forums

Nightly bump

>You are likely hearing coil whine from the inductor behind the blue polycap. best way to check is to roll up a piece of paper into a long thin trumpet shape, put the narrow end to your ear and scan around the board with the open end till you hear the noise. The component underneath is your culprit.
I'll give it a try, ty user

>You are likely hearing coil whine
also i can assure you this isnt it. it is a very distinctive arcing sound it didnt make before the fire.

if I try to run the UPS on AC power with the battery disconnected, the LEDs on the board briefly turn on, you'll hear the arcing, and then in less than a second it shuts off the input and the arcing stops and it powers off.

if I run it with the battery connected, it works fine until AC power is applied. when power is applied you hear the arcing for less than a second before it shuts itself off the AC input, although it continues to run off battery power.

Also what further leads me to belive it is arcing, is that there are two 120V outlets in the same junction box as the 208V outlet. And there is another UPS on one of the 120V outlets. When I try to turn on the 208V UPS and the arcing noise happens, the 120V UPS will switch to battery power.

Do I have to mess with my router in order to run my website from a home server? Also why are there 0 (ZERO) guides or explanations on the internet? Every google result talks about shitty localhost websites.

>be me
>want a nas
>want a 16 bay or 24 bay (if 2u)
>want sas drives
>found great deals on old dell 16 bays on fleabay
>fans gonna be too loud or the things too old to handle 8tb drives
>look into buying my own shit.
>neweggs only 16 bay chasis has ok reviews
>not gonna be as compact, but can make it quiet
>look at drive prices
>be way too poor
SAD

because you set up a local host website, get your webserver to listen on something other than 127.0.0.1 (like the ip of the interface you want inbound connections on, or 0.0.0.0 for all interfaces)... then you push a hole in your NAT so that port 80 / 443 point at the machine hosting the website.

dont be an idiot, cause if your site gets popped, your internal hosts can get pivoted to through your web server.

look up lamp stack. by default apache2 listens on 0.0.0.0 so all you need to do is port forward. make sure to iptables like a mad man. egress rules for daaaaaaaaaays

do you even know what unstable means?

>rolling release
>not unstable
nice one you fucking idiot

You just follow a guide to set up / run whatever web server then allow non localhost access.

Bump

Friendly reminder to ignore the illiterate spic microshill running pirated proprietary software that has been plaguing these generals.

during winter there are ocasional power outages where i live and im thinking of buying an UPS. what are the most important things to take into account?
after browsing a local shop a little, i see some UPSes come with IEC plugs, others with the "normal" schuko plugs (preferred) and others with both. is there a reason for this?
i dont need anything fancy, its for my PC and server (not a "real" server, a RBPi + HDD), but would like some advice

Specs:
Supermicro PDSMU
Xeon X3210 2.4Ghz
4GB RAM
4x4TB in RAID10

Used for:
RADIUS AAA (FreeRADIUS + MariaDB), backups, webhost, seedbox, Unbound, OpenVPN, Tor relay, cjdns, and H@H.

I wonder what is required to run a nas that use 20-30w/h. Any suggestion? (a 5v or 12v system)

You can use an ODroid OR an x86 (J1900 or J3455 are suggestions).

If you go with the latter just get an efficient PSU (be it a lower wattage picoPSU or just a PSU that is otherwise very efficient at 10-20w ish load) and just a single HDD. And you probably meet that target consumption, easy.

It isnt uncommon for ISPs to block incoming port 80, I know mine does.

stay butthurt user