/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Delid your CPU
youtube.com/watch?v=2eFzNpTOaOw

>Assemble a part list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Example gaming builds and _monitor_ suggestions; click on the blue title to see notes
pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/
>Learn how to build a PC (You can find a lot more detailed videos on channels like Bitwit)
youtube.com/watch?v=69WFt6_dF8g
>How to install Win7 on Ryzen
pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1

If you want help:
>State the budget & CURRENCY for your build
>List your uses, e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose (e.g., photoediting, gaming) and graphics card pairing (if applicable)

CPUs:
>NO i5 7500/7600K or i7 7700/K. THEY ARE DEFUNCT AND SUPERSEDED BY COFFEE LAKE
>G4560/G4600 for non-gaming (light tasks) or bare minimum gaming builds with a dedicated graphics card
>R3 1200 - Budget builds (best with OC + fast RAM)
>R5 1600 / i5 8400 - Great gaming (especially the i5 8400) or multithreaded use CPUs (especially the R5 1600)
>R7 / Used Xeon / Threadripper / i7 - Heavy Multi-Tasking / VM Work / Mixed use

RAM:
>Current CPUs benefit from high speed RAM; 3000-3200 MHz is ideal
>Before buying RAM for Ryzen, check your Mobo's QVL or look for user reports

Graphics cards:
>Consider Vega 56 for a Freesync monitor
>Crypto-Currency miners have driven GPU prices up (particularly Radeon)
1080p
>GTX 1050Ti and 3GB 1060 are the only reasonably priced cards; 6GB 1060 or 4GB 580 if you want to overpay a little
>GTX 1070 if you're looking for very high (100+) framerates and you have a CPU and monitor to match
1440p
>GTX 1070/Ti and 1080 are standard choices; currently overpriced
>GTX 1080Ti if you're looking for very high (100+) framerates and you have a CPU and monitor to match
2160p (4K)
>GTX 1080Ti

General:
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING
>A 240GB or larger SSD is almost mandatory; consider m.2 form factor

Previous:

Other urls found in this thread:

amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01M3PI44P/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bT0ZyR_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-5&pf_rd_r=EF05QSCNF55M5GTYXJ49&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=8c93ad09-30ec-5974-bb61-c27411cb8791&pf_rd_i=428652031&th=1
pcpartpicker.com/list/KNsYpb
pcpartpicker.com/list/vhYJFd
pcpartpicker.com/list/HM23f8
pcpartpicker.com/list/smvKFd
pcpartpicker.com/list/ry7Pbj
pcpartpicker.com/products/memory/#s=403200&Z=16384002&L=0,140&sort=price&page=1
www3.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/ideapad/lenovo-legion-y-series-laptops/Lenovo-Y520-15IKBN/p/88GMY500808
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

Other thread only has like 350 posts dumbass

It's also on page 10 you complete retard
Do you know nothing about how thread bumping works

...

It was already on page 10 and probably just a few minutes away from 404. First time on Sup Forums?

Sorry
Threads on Sup Forums have a 500 post limit

No problem

I've got a $2000 budget, no monitor or peripherals needed. Help me please, I have no idea what I am doing. I think I want a 1080ti

Don't buy a 1080 Ti unless you have a 2160p 60hz or a 1440p 144hz+ monitor.

I do.

Which of those? This matters because it will decide what CPU you choose.

I have a 144hz 2560x1440 monitor. I also have an Oculus that I am trading up for a ride soon.

A good 1440p144hz monitor is going to cost like 500-700 USD depending on if it has Gsync or not.

It has gsync.

Do you mean trading up for a Vive?
>phoneposters

1080ti
8700k
The rest of the hardware should be autofill. Just buy the most expensive shit you can afford.

Hey Sup Forums please advise I'm at an impasse.

I've been feeling the need to upgrade my CPU but my motherboard is kinda old at this point so I dunno if it makes sense to get just a new CPU or get a new motherboard and CPU, but that has a lot of added hassle what with rebuilding the whole PC.

My budget is around $300. What do? Pic related is my current specs

What CPU fan is the quietest that will let me overclock? And is overclocking hard? How much ram do I need?

NH-D15
It's pretty easy if you read up on it.
16GB for gaming use

I have a psu connected to a mobo, cpu, and ram outside of a case. Mobo is on an insulated surface. It keeps rebooting (boot -> fans spin for 5 sec -> shuts off -> repeat). There are no beeps. pls help

Considering he has a 2k budget and is going to be playing with high texture, I suggest 32GB of ram so he can keep chrome or some other stuff in the background open.

I know I have to close all my programs before I run one of the more intensive games otherwise the program will close from lack of RAM.

Did you put the cooler on? Did you put the processor in the right way?

Yes, but not at the cost of anything else.
Keep in mind that the 1080 Ti and 8700k are already at least $1090, and the NH-D15 is another $90. A good board is $200+.

Try a different power cord for the psu. I had a similar issue once and what worked for me was mashing the power button and flipping the psu switch on and off and it would eventually start.

He has a 2k budget.
Assuming all that you mentioned adds up to 1.5k. That is still 500 dollars to get storage/SSD, casing and PSU.

That entire rig needs to be replaced no offense, I wouldn't throw more money at it if it was me, just save the 300 dollars and keep adding to it until you have ~1000-1200 and build an awesome computer.

Kind of a crapshoot but is the RAM seated properly?

I swear that's the source of like 99% of my boot problems

I was the dumbass who posted the first post, did you really just take the blame for me? I know it's an anonymous board but that is some class lol

Try finding 32GB DDR4-2400 under $330.
Add all that up, and he has $290 left. That means no HDDs and a budget case.

Is this what Sup Forums has become

Yes, should have mentioned I'm troubleshooting a build that worked perfectly before. Unless there's a possibility that the CPU has been moved in any way through the computer itself being physically moved around and thats made things fucky (guessing probability of that is zero?)

Same issue with two different PSUs. One that's in right now is brand new with the brand new power cable and all.

Yes, RAM is 2x4GB. I tried both sticks individually in DIMM1 and same result. Removing all sticks causes 3 beeps

How often should thermal paste be reapplied? My coworker said every two years.

That sounds about right.

...Oh
>tfw poorfag
I can probably save up enough to get a new motherboard, CPU, and DDR4 RAM but it'll take a long time to get enough for a whole new build from scratch (power supply, case, HDDs and SSDs, GPU etc)

Is the GPU that shitty? Do you think I can at least save the case and the HDD/SSD?

Try doing this, i had a bad mobo that did the same thing and this could get it to work.
>I had a similar issue once and what worked for me was mashing the power button and flipping the psu switch on and off and it would eventually start.

>haven't reapplied thermal paste for 5 years

Things you can save:
HDD
Case
Monitor
OS
Possibly the PSU, depending on what it is
Things that are better off dead:
CPU
Board
RAM
SSD
Video card
Optical drive

Looking for a nice monitor mainly for gaming and watching films. I live in the uk so prices in £ and remember shipping

Max £150 (if there is something that is a bit more feel free to suggest it)

Would like IPS if it has good response time

Nothing too big, around 24 inch

Not curved, just standard format

Freesync/Gsync not wanted


I was looking at this and for the price it looks amazing but just wondering if anyone had any other good ideas.

I wouldn't bother unless i noticed my temps were higher than they should be even after cleaning out the dust.

just want some more opinions. how would you do the fans in this? the motherboard and cpu heatsinks are designed for a rackmount. i at least got low voltage xeons. i have some powerful fans (1.6A, 0.5A)

This is an extreme budget built. Making a duct out of cardboard is a possibility, but, id rather not ghetto this thing up quite that much. Im already planning on using an old ATX PSU (no SATA power connectors) and splicing on SATA and other modern requirements. I could mount a fan next to the heatsinks, or rubber band some 80mm fans to the heatsinks

Any rec's for a 1080p monitor with a 1060?

amazon.co.uk/gp/product/B01M3PI44P/ref=s9_acsd_top_hd_bw_bT0ZyR_c_x_2_w?pf_rd_m=A3P5ROKL5A1OLE&pf_rd_s=merchandised-search-5&pf_rd_r=EF05QSCNF55M5GTYXJ49&pf_rd_t=101&pf_rd_p=8c93ad09-30ec-5974-bb61-c27411cb8791&pf_rd_i=428652031&th=1

This is what I was looking at

>SSD
Id save that too

Finished with a build, slapped on win 7. Started the performance testing for the lols, PC turned off after 10-20 seconds.
Is a 750W PSU enough for these?:
MSI GTX 1070
Ryzen 5 1600

Use zip-ties on a 120/140mm for the most secure fit. Make sure the fan you buy is optimised for heatsinks.
If you end up buying a molex to SATA adapter please buy a good one so your system doesn't catch fire
That SSD is smaller than the one in my phone

750w is more than enough. I would go for the FOCUS Plus Gold 650w.

Wow for once someone bought a 1070 with a 1600/8400. The last 2 pcbg's I had arguments over a 1060 or 1070 was the best in that scenario. I mean both are good, but since games tend to be more gpu intensive, for me it was a no brainer.

You can do an incremental upgrade and still keep a lot of the same stuff. I'd say it's only really necessary to upgrade the cpu+mobo+ram at the same time and anything else can be bought later on.

Thoughts? Freesync 1080p 75 fps monitor. How is this gaming pc overall?

pcpartpicker.com/list/KNsYpb

>molex to SATA adapter
gonna remove all the molex connectors and splice some of these on

Oh shit lads, something happened. I moved the RAM stick to DIMM2 and I got a single short beep. Gonna connect VGA and see what I get.

My motherboard manual said that DIMM1 must be populated for all configurations so I never tried moving it. Could anything bad happen if I use another slot? (still dunno if its working)

Even if you just had 600, you could put together a satisfactory ryzen 1200 build or something that would be a huge upgrade, but even then you wouldn't really be solidly future proofed, and would need to rebuild again eventually. You could reuse the GPU and go all out on a processor/mobo, deal with the bottleneck and replace the GPU after a couple years, 55gb SSD is very low, my 250gb one is half way filled up and I don't even put games on it, your RAM is DDR3, that needs to be replaced. You could throw your HDD into your new rig but that's a negligible cost anyways.

I don't know your financial situation, it's up to you, I saved up for a $1200 rig in a couple months and I only make 15 bucks an hour, my advice regardless is to just deal with low settings and low FPS or potentially missing out on newer games for a little while until you save up for a full build, if you have an alternative computer like a laptop maybe even sell your rig while you can still get something for it, and put it in an account with your $300.

I built my last PC 10 years ago, idk what im doing, dont feel reassured lol.

I was considering getting a power meter but thats answered now.
Ill try other OS and softwarey stuff. Im scared.

I have a 1080/1600x because at 1440p the cpu barely effects it

Could some one help me out please?

500GB SSDs are cheap, and you can get a modular PSU from Seasonic for the same price.
pcpartpicker.com/list/vhYJFd

I think the 1600 is probably good enough for any 60hz build, for a 1060 i wouldn't even go that high and would just get an r3 1200 instead.

Who knows. Seems whacky bro.

The 1600 has a multicore advantage, which is better for stuttering. But I agree, the 8400 is pricey for 1080p @ 60hz.

im already getting an 8400, with probably a 1060 to save $. So should I just get a 60hz monitor then. Also I dont care about freesync or gsync so thats not a factor

You can just put an OS on it and use it to boot from, the boot time in SSDs are hella fast compared to just booting from an HDD

He's saying that the Ryzen 5 1600 will perform the same, and you can save $60 on a board, also.

Explain how friend, I'm curious as id like to do that somehow as well

OP here, that's all I'm using it for right now, just the OS and related system files. Although maybe nowadays SSDs are cheap enough that getting a new one might be worth it, especially since I'd have to reinstall the OS if I'm upgrading the motherboard anyway

>So should I just get a 60hz monitor then.
Depends on if you're planning on upgrading your gpu in the near future i guess, with a 1060 i wouldn't bother unless i thought i was going to upgrade in the next couple of years.
A 144hz monitor will undoubtedly be nicer but at a premium and with a 1060 you're probably not going to get high enough framerates on a consistent basis to justify it, that's just my opinion anyway.

pcpartpicker.com/list/HM23f8

Received most of these parts for Christmas, but I can never figure out good RAM may I have some help?

whats your budget?

16gb, 3200mhz, cas latency of 14.

Hey buds what upgrades should I blow all my Christmas money on

whats your budget?

If I didnt leave my wire strippers at work Id literally do it step by step right now... Ill try to do this tomorrow night and post in /pcbg/. only thing that would stop me is if i cant afford heat-shrink tubing after paying my rent tomorrow. keep in mind i have an old power supply with only molex. im basically going to remove all the molex and add SATA. I also have to add a few other things as well.

but as far as the molex goes, just cut off a molex harness, leaving as much wire from the psu as possible. find a donor power supply with sata connectors, and cut that harness off, again, better to have extra wire than not enough

im going to do lineman splices (ill post the pic). these are the splices NASA uses, they are literally stronger than the rest of the wire that isnt spliced. anyway, you need to strip quite a bit of wire to do lineman splices, say 2 inches. most SATA drives dont need the 3.3V line, so I will simply omit them. double check that you dont need them (you probably dont). before splicing, slide on your heat shrink. so you will just match the 12V to the 12V, the 5V to the 5V, and the GNDs to GND. everything is color coded (yellow, red, black). splice the wires, solder your splice, then slide the heatshrink over and heat it.

pic is a lineman splice. its optional, but NASA approved ;)

Which parts do you already own?

...

Nothing too insane. My dad got me a 4K monitor that my current setup doesn't run games so hot on (runs 1440p fine for the most part) and I'd like to at least update the GPU and memory.

Shit I'm probably gonna end up doing a complete rebuilt

I don't think I'll need more than 250 gb desu

ill also be adding these (8 pin cpu 12v on rigjt, +4 pin main atx connector on left). ill actually probably omit the gpu harness (middle) since this will be a server

1080 Ti or 1080 if you don't care as much
If you want to update CPU/board/memory then get a Ryzen 1600, a B350 board, and 16GB of DDR4 2400+

>@59hz
Come on don't do this

lol don't give a fuck

Thanks dawg

I really like my DeathAdder but it has scroll wheel problems so I need another mouse. I don't care about sensors or rgb. I just want a comfy and reliable mouse. I have large hands. Can you recommed something?

How much of an upgrade is an RX 580 over a 480?

Budget parts (1600, B350, 1080)
pcpartpicker.com/list/smvKFd
Premium parts (1700, cooler, X370, 1080 Ti)
pcpartpicker.com/list/ry7Pbj
Feel free to mix and match, but the second build has maximum overclocks in mind for the CPU, memory, and video card.

Barely any
If you have a 480 I wouldn't buy anything less capable than a 1070 Ti or Vega 56

I got this exact monitor for Christmas and the bios screen from my PC won't display on the monitor. Once it gets past the bios/boot screen it's fine but the boot screen won't show up and it just shows 'No Signal'. Anyone know why this is?

I have everything but ram because I’m too stupid to pick it out. Budget is a non issue especially when it comes to the retarded ram prices of today.

Something from this list will be the most reliable:
pcpartpicker.com/products/memory/#s=403200&Z=16384002&L=0,140&sort=price&page=1

16 is enough for gaming/streaming?

Why is this case so good, /gee/?

Gaming? Yes. Streaming? I'm not sure.

Well gaming is the important one haha

I'd say 16 is more than enough for just videogames.
Though there are some games, don't remember which ones, that actually have 16GB as the recommended requirements for RAM.

Nevermind I found the cause. Apparently it comes with freesync already enabled. If you connect with HDMI and freesync enabled you won't be able to display the BIOS screen. You have to either connect through DVI or connect to another device in order to access the monitor menu so you can turn freesync off, only then will you be able to see the BIOS

Wait, why would you use Freesync and HDMI? Does that even work?

Yeah you can use freesync with HDMI. It's enabled by default for some reason hence the irritating BIOS bug. I spent 2 days thinking my mobo or gpu was DOA until I tried using a different monitor and looked it up just now

Also that makes me wonder, what connection is the best connection? Or does it make much of a difference? Does displayport have better performance or something?

Displayport has a cable lock and the newest revisions usually have higher bandwidth than comparable HDMI revisions. It is also royalty-free and cheaper to implement because of it.

huh ok, guess I'll pick up a displaypport cable since it respects my freedoms

I'm pretty new to soldering, i found it pretty easy to solder the first time i used it but the next time i didn't have much luck, what am i doing wrong? Is there some method i should be using to clean the tip?

I know this is PCbg but I thought this is the most fitting place to ask about laptops.
Is this a good deal anons?
www3.lenovo.com/us/en/laptops/ideapad/lenovo-legion-y-series-laptops/Lenovo-Y520-15IKBN/p/88GMY500808
Looks cringey but the specs seem good on both laptips. I have a ssd I could pop in there so I'm fine with w/e the drive is.

Anyone has the Dark Rock Pro 3?
How's the RAM clearance?