Soldering Thread

Lets have a thread about soldering

Can anyone make a good reccomedation for a soldering iron?

Im tempted to get pic related and just buy the genuine iron.

Any reccomendations for an extractor/air filter or other usefull tools?

Other urls found in this thread:

m.aliexpress.com/s/item/32839523934.html?spm=a2g0n.search-cache.0.0.7cc03395NiCuaS
amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC
amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4IO59H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1
youtube.com/watch?v=5uiroWBkdFY
twitter.com/AnonBabble

Ive got the 852d+ and im really happy with it. Just take it apart before you use it and double check all the chinese soldering and assembly. Also an avr transistor testor is a really useful and cheap tool

Weller irons are way better.

how do you solder something on modern technology like computers? they dont use normal solder anymore.

...

Solder paste with a heated air pen helps. There's videos of machines that do it, but basically you get specific tips and go carefully it you can't afford to get an automatic machine

hot air rework station is a must-have for repairing modern stuff
bga packages are a bitch and a half to deal with though and I usually just give up if I'm not able to straight up replace the chip.

>not getting a weller

I just bought one for Christmas. Searched around reddit for advice what to buy. Basically all the posts there said unless you're going to lay down serious cash for a professional one, buy a Weller.
So..
I bought a weller.

redpill me on soldering

why would I want to do it, can't I just electrical tape shit together

(I don't know what I'm talking about, help me out lads)

If you do that then the sticky stuff eventually comes off the tape and spreads onto the wire thus insulating the wire from making a connection with the other wire.

got the old analog version of the fx888 and it’s great

get yourself some flux, 30awg wire, and foil wire tape for working on circuit boards

...

>
>Not using linesman splice

senpai do not buy and iron like that they have some shitty element that the tips sit on top of they are terrible irons. I have just ordered this and believe it will be a great iron. It uses real hkko t12 tips these actually heat up properly.

m.aliexpress.com/s/item/32839523934.html?spm=a2g0n.search-cache.0.0.7cc03395NiCuaS

before I got into soldering I fixed a fucked laptop charger with hot glue it worked for two years and then I was like fuck it I'll get a soldering iron. The repair was a lot quicker and a lot less dodgy

why wouldn't you want to learn a simple yet effective skill that is related to technology?

You flow leaded solder onto it first.

amazon.com/dp/B000AS28UC

How's this Weller station? Just looking to practice for now on some dead boards, so I just want something cheap, but not shit.

What is the point of those sophisticated soldering stations with the displays and all?
Pic related works just fine.

How come nobody's talking about ts100?

maybe because its relatively expensive senpai. I might have to pick one up when I get my next price of student loan they look like great irons

I've tried soldering but my hands aren't steady enough.

station "pen" is lighter and easier to manipulate, and temperature regulation makes it easier to use. but then again, if you can't use your kind of soldering iron, you won't do any better with professional soldering station, so your minimalism might be reasonable. in the end, it's not like we're professionals or anything.

i'm using pic related kind of turd right now but i intend to get myself something nice soon. compared to generic irons i had at home all my life, this one has advantage of working steadily and in predictible manner, as opposed to those gun transformer soldering irons i always had. i was soldering microusb ports with this thing and it worked well, so i find it difficult to convince myself to upgrade. i think i'll get 936D one day, but it probably won't be soon.

My whole life I could never figure it out and came to think that proper soldering was just out of my reach, a talent I didn't have and couldn't ever develop.
Turns out, the trick to decent soldering, is just a decent soldering iron.
So I sort of doubt Feel free to post something you've done though and prove me wrong - Also, regardless, consider how much better your life might be with a proper station.

I have the Hakko FX-888D and it's served me wonderfully.
One of the best $100 I've ever spent.

you can't electrical tape PCBs. but anyway, since you mean soldering two cables together: reliability. you could use tape, you could even ignore it and just twist two cables together, but proper solder work will hold up incredibly well. and then there are also enviromental aspects, tape two cables together in a car and you can be sure that one day it'll all break down again, solder it and cables will hold up through the winter, rain, whatever else.

soldering properly and using heat shrinkable tubes will result in having a cable that's just as reliable as it was before it was cut.

I've had a legit FX888D for maybe 18 months now & I reckon it was a good investment for somebody that solders regularly. You certainly don't _need_ such an expensive iron to make good joints, but it sure makes the whole process more pleasant.

Been meaning to get a soldering kit and multimeter so that i can debug my sony 7506's, one driver seems to be scuffed but i feel like it could be the headband.
Is this a good idea or should i just leave them in the headphone graveyard and KMS?

Before that used 24V 50W Weller magnastat that is +25 years old (Still works fine and is one of my favourite irons that I have used, the handling despite the size is just so good).

As he said having a good iron makes it much more pleasant to use especially if you solder on a daily basis.

I have a weller WS81 with stop and go soldering iron holder. The tips hold up really well, just very recently have I replaced the original tip which was worn after like 8 years of use.
The hoof tip is nice if you want to solder tqfp, soic etc.

Recently I have made a homemade controller for a JBC T245 handle, to save money. A full JBC station is heaven, but too expensive. Controller isnt even that complicated.

>1. Hot-air gun with thermal control.
To solderer/unsolder BGA and other SMD parts.
>2. PCB pre-heater.
To prevent warping of PCB and minimize chance of overheat of PCB.
>3. Soldering iron with thermal control.
To solder SMD, through-hole.

Induction>Ceramics>Nichrome. (But I use nichrome, because I am a poorfag)

My hands get shaky when soldering. What do?

Place finger closer to tips while holding PCB, like that you will try not to shake hands.

If you're just doing through-hole with leaded solder, you don't need anything fancy. I still use a 25W weller.

Did you use a Weller? Cheap soldering irons are not all the same. You can indeed do great work with these irons, but only with leaded solder. Lead-free requires more heat.

This, lead-free solder is the devil.
Remember 360 RRODs? Entirely due to leadfree solder.

What did you mean by this?

I think they're referring to this infographic.

If you solder alot or make money from soldering, get hako or something like it

if you dont and just need to do a solder job here and there, I can 100% stand by this
amazon.com/gp/product/B01N4IO59H/ref=oh_aui_detailpage_o03_s00?ie=UTF8&psc=1

set the temp to the lowest and increase till it can melt solder, then see if it works, if it doesn't increase till it does, trying to calibrate this thing so its accurate is kind of pointless.

If you don't have a heat gun, I suggest one with one on it, they are so stupidly useful that it's hard to say not to just get one in case.

the tip you get with the soldering station is fucking useless for the most part, so plan on buying a tip pack, and if you solder a lot possibly source what you like from aliexpress

That takes a minute or so to heat up, then if you solder something heavy it does not maintain heat well, is bulkier, and in recent years, uses beyond shit metal for the things so you have to replace the whole thing,

there are a few kinds of these things that have large masses on them so they hold and maintain heat easier for bulkier things, but they are specialty irons, nor the normal ones you have there, and for the kicker the one that I linked here is about 50% more expensive than bargain basement mains irons, shit is worth it overall just for ease of use, not to mention the hako platform tops you can choose from, and due to this shit being the standard over in china, you get VERY cheap replacement parts.

the only downside is once you realise how much money you pissed away on mains irons and you could have just bought 1 good station and been done with it.

now, the more advanced stations are largely reliability, and you are making money off soldering so you want to make damn sure you are using the best.

Any good soldering gloves? Ideally I'd like ones good enough to resist molten solder but thin enough to manipulate the iron easily.
Does such a thing exist? Most soldering pros are using protection glasses but I barely see anyone using gloves.

Wtf are soldering gloves? If you need gloves, you're doing it wrong. Use tweezers or needle nose pliers to hold work pieces that would get too hot for your fingers.

I don't think you're supposed to hold the shiny end of the iron.

OP here

Thanks for the suggestions i'll look at some Weller soldering stations

Currently I have one of these but I think it is making things harder than it needs to be.

Does anyone solder with leaded solder?
Apparently it works much better than lead free but oviously I would need a filter mask and lots of extraction to get rid of the fumes.

>doing it wrong
Well yes brainlet that's why accidents happen.

Solder is much more likely to end on the hands than into the eyes. Yet everyone wears glasses but almost nobody wears gloves.
Why?

Why buy from AliExpress when you can buy from local retailer at the same price with valid warranty?

Gloves would make it hard to do fine adjustments, I think they'd get in the way more than help with soldering. Glasses don't really get in the way and they can protect your eyes from direct exposure to fumes and smoke and possibly molten solder in the very unlikely event that it splashes everywhere.

Yes, this is a good unit. The way you set the temp is kind of weird but all-in-all I like mine a lot.

...

Personally, I prefer the Hakko FX-951. Any semi-professional station is going to be worlds better than bullshit like this: The things to look for in a good soldering station are:
1. time to heat up
2. a good selection of tips (chisel, flat, angled tip)
3. decently precise (repeatable) control of heat

Watch this video for dope MIDI hair metal music and a great overview of surface mount soldering technique for ICs:
youtube.com/watch?v=5uiroWBkdFY

> Hakko
> Not JBC or Pace

Flux is what is dangerous, lead doesn't evaporate at solder melting temperature but flux does.

Believe me flux inside lead-free solder is MUCH more dangerous than inside leaded one. One thing to consider when soldering with leaded one is to wash your hands after use, that is all.

If you are soldering a lot then I recommend getting a fume extractor.

Not exactly soldering related but I didn't see an appropriate thread:

Are those cheap chinese multimeters good enough for a beginner? I'm not sticking it into a car or wall socket, just smaller stuff like old game consoles. Like all I really wanna do is troubleshoot and find bad traces.

Yes, they are not "safe" by namby pamby standards but there are some decent ones.

AN8008 is an alright Chinese meter the only problem with it is the stand which is shit.

If you need it for continuity testing then anything will do.

>Believe me flux inside lead-free solder is MUCH more dangerous than inside leaded one. One thing to consider when soldering with leaded one is to wash your hands after use, that is all.
can you go into more detail about the flux in lead-free solder?

Do you wear protective gloves while chopping vegetables?

>a good solder
all solders solder, the only question is a good flux.
Your pic related will more than suffice.

>extractor/air filter
just use a window, even better if you DIY you could make a small ventilation shaft out the wall, then put that nearby and use a re-purposed GPU fan to get rid of the smoke.

Since PB-free solder has a higher melting temperature in comparison to its leaded counterpart it in most cases requires stronger flux or flux that contains more of the "activator" that is there to compensate for those drawbacks.

If you ever solderer with both of these you will notice that soldering lead free stuff fatigues you quicker than leaded one and it also has a distinctive nasty smell to it.

Obviously none of the fumes are good for you so if you are soldering something for longer than an hour or 2 you should invest or build yourself a fume extractor.

>not using a properly calibrated crimp
Enjoy your fatigue fractures.

It's like I'm playing starcraft