Tfw 120 V

>tfw 120 V
>put space heater on HIGH
>trip breaker
FUCK YOU Edison

When will NA switch to 230 V?

Tesla is laughing at you americucks

Pic related is mfw people still use space heaters

> BE NA
> Want to get that sweet crypto mining money
> Buy 4 more 1080Ti's and an extra PSU
> Plug in
> Trip breaker

I mean I'm retarded for not looking this shit up but my apartment is also retarded for a 1,500W rig tripping the breaker

>When will NA switch to 230 V?
You are already switched, between two phases you have exactly 240V.

But you don't have 220/380V.

...

>tfw you nutted but she still suckin'

We already have 240V, but most houses don't have the 240V outlets + high amperage wire run to every room. Many houses have a single 240V outlet in the garage for machines or charging electric cars, and sometimes more for appliances in the kitchen or laundry room.

1500W should be 12.5A. That should not be popping a breaker by itself. Any 15A 120V (that's a standard murkan plug) receptacle must be placed on a branch circuit with 15 or 20A ampacity.

Kek'd hard

At least you had 60Hz when it mattered (like old vidya consoles)

10A is a standard load too, and in a shitty apartment you better believe they will put 10A circuits if they can.

>buy electric car
>level 1 charging is literally half as fast because muh 120V

burger is suffering

De-modernize your breakers, OP.

wtf? you have 10A circuits in america? in the uk we install 16A for a 2.5mm radial and a ring of 2.5mm on a 32A you can put a 2.5mm radial on a 20A

is there only 1 socket on that 10A?

Your house already has two-phase 240V, you fucking idiot. Being American isn't suffering, it's being retarded.

I can check my breaker box but I'm sure some are 10A

>how to cause a fire

Yeah for the fucking drier, everything else is 120v

only thing lower than a 16A we do here is 6A mostly for lights smokes and boilers which falls into the 10A range on 1.5mm

That's the thing. You're not supposed to put 15A receptacles on a 10A line. I've never actually seen 10A lines anywhere even in ghetto apartments with tons of cut corners. Still that shape is supposed to communicate there's at least 15A or 20A there. That's a code violation on a 10A branch circuit. A call to the right person gets that fixed. It's way more likely the breaker is weak or there's something else on the line. Replacement breaker is cheap.

but then again we use AC in the UK think in america youre still on DC

My company sells machines with a 18A start, americans btfo

I've seen tons of breakers when installing or repairing electrical systems. I have never seen a 10A breaker in a home system. I've seen 10A breakers in appliances. I saw a UPS a few months ago with a 10A breaker. I've never seen anything less than 15A.

Most sockets are shared in America. Appliance lines are pretty common. i've seen a few 20A dedicated for high power kitchen machines. Big appliances that never get moved get dedicated high amp lines.

>Implying my made from scratch fuses aren't better than your boated proprietary fuse botnet.

>order 3d rinter
>spend 6 hours putting kit together
>plug in
>flip power switch
>sparks
>bang
>rekt the power supply because it was set at 120v for americans
;__; sort your shit out faggots

Converting a 120V branch circuit to 240V is trivial. By trivial I mean for people with an actual interest in technology and don't drink soy.

There's already 240 in your house. All you have to do is get a double pole breaker and use what is currently being used as the neutral as a second phase. Change out the receptacles to a 240V version to prevent people from plugging 120V stuff in. Congrats you just doubled your power handling without buying new copper.

same ivnt either although i have seen a ring in 1.5mm which is rare on a 20A

i think ill stick to my breakets one off the first fuseboards i changed

I blew the PSU on the first computer I built when I was a kid because the switch was on 120V.
What happens when Americans put their switch on 220?

Same thing.

>order 3d printer
>it has a pfc circuit
>designing a pfc circuit that handles 100-240VAC is just as easy as designing one that has to be switched
>better cut corners and save a couple pennies on this state of the art device
>My $10 laptop charger has no switch and can run on 100-240V
>Your rapid prototyping device can't.

Buy better shit you faggot. Maker culture everyone.

probably would just be really unstable desu

i got some chink kit which came with no instructions because it was cheap

>he doesn't throw out his dryer and install his mining rig in the 240V outlet
Lmaoing

>gotta keep your rig in the bathroom because shit electricity
>tfw amerimutt

>That should not be popping a breaker by itself.
that depends on the breaker. also depends how much more power the setup draws while turning on. Most appliances make a huge current spike when they are turned on , so even if his setup will draw nominal current around the breakers nominal current, during the first power on cycles when shit has to start spinning and stuff it should spike.

real fuses are great though, unless your electrician is too much of a brainlet to properly calculate what fuses you need. With breakers you never know what will get fucked in the process, because they turn off the current slowly (compared to fuses, proper ones do it in less than 1 cycle).

What kind of shit breakers do they have in your country that don't break as fast as fuses?

true i suppose but you dont really need to calculate breaker size unless its a long run

this isnt the tidyist ive done but probably the most effort into one

lol what

>that depends on the breaker
The breaker is either bad or his installation is out of code. So yeah depends on the breaker.

>Most appliances make a huge current spike

His power supply has a PFC circuit. That does tend to draw a little extra to charge up the cap that feeds the downstream regulators. The thing is that PFCs main job is to even out the current draw over the entire 1/60 s cycle. The breakers don't blow quickly either. For a slight overcurrent state it will take seconds to minutes to pop that breaker. Plenty of time for that PFC to reach steady state even if it was poorly enough designed to go over 15A. An ATX compatible switch mode power supply with PFC is a pretty advanced thing.

>shit has to start spinning
You're talking about a few 10W fans and hard drive motors here. If you really think that the stalled rotor current on the cooling fans is popping a 15A breaker you should just worrying your pretty little head about this stuff.

>electric heating

the worst part of being american is how long it takes the kettle to boil water compared to yuros
i don't want to wait 5 minutes when yuropoors can boil water in 90 seconds.

literally all breakers work like this.
reaction time =/= break time, educate yourself about breaker characterstics. You are lucky to break the current in 3-4 full cycles, especially with low end breakers that are used for houses.

>proper ones do it in less than 1 cycle
This is not a good thing. Your copper doesn't get hot enought to catch stuff on fire in one cycle. If I'm drawing 21A on a 20A line ideally the overcurrent protection device lets me get away with it for a while.

lmfao what, europoor education folks

Run a 240V line senpai. Hell there's probably one going to your stove or oven if you're using electric power to heat water. Tap in to that with a little breaker box. This is a technology board ffs.

it not dependant on the copper though its dependant on the filament heating up inside the breaker

Microwave it
>inb4 some brainlet says it makes the water radioactive

>Using pleb electric heat
>Not using masterrace used oil fired furnace

Heating in the filament is proportional to the heating in the copper. If you really cared about breaking time you'd be going with solid state. Luckily fuses take a while to blow too. Particularly the slow blow ones that are best suited to this task.

It makes the frogs gay.

Fuses have characteristics too, they blow later in event of little overcurrents and faster on high, short circuit currents.
However short circuit currents are usually fuckload higher than overcurrents, so you get the benefit of the fuse not blowing when you draw few more ampers for short periods of time, and blowing instantly in case of a huge current spike.
Breakers on the other hand will have problems with breaking a huge current quickly , so you have a higher risk of burning delicate electronics ,and usually get tripped over a passing overcurrent or inrush current typical to most mechanical machines, altough as stated its not the case here.

Microwave is 120v, it boils water slower than a kettle

...

are you retarded? 240v is what runs to your house, through a step down transformer to become 120V rms

you can get 240v directly, just call your power company

i could do that but i'm lazy and it should just werk desu.

>two phase 240v
ick.

>using a space heater
you deserve to freeze to death

>using a bullet as a fuse

o_______

are you actually autistic?

wat

The US has two-phase 240v. The breaker is the problem though, you probably have a 15A breaker with multiple circuits.

derpus maximus

its just teslacucks.

>knowing neither history nor basic electrical information

A microwave isn't more efficient than a kettle.

>tfw 120 V
>put space heater on HIGH
>trip breaker
>When will NA switch to 230 V?
As much as I like to shit on American systems, there is no reason your 120V systems should cause breaker issues. It just means your circuits should all be built for higher current (say, 30A for your standard power sockets). A bit more expensive than 230V circuits I guess, but there's no real reason why you couldn't run equivalent high-power appliances on it.

>cucked by a printer
id just doent power on. at least, thats what happens with my computer's PSU, never really tried it with anything else and i dont intend to.

>the virgin tesla
>the chad Edison

nothing wrong with using a space heater if you live in an apartment.

As far as anyone knows, he died a virgin. Probably had something to do with his extreme OCD.

Is this what suburb cartards really believe?

I've never seen any breaker smaller than 15A and I'm some sort of expert

It is very interesting to see my old car here.
How did it got here?

yes, you are autistic then

>NA switches to 240v (aka "230 V")
>Cucks downsize breakers by 50% because muh voltage gains.
>Still blow breakers when space heater on HIGH or large wattage draw appliance on shitty cuck wiring.
>Extra 120v (eurofag 115 V) RMS between source and earth. Chinese electric tea kettle may actually now stand a chance to kill me.

Suck my fucking dick

And your house should be wired with 2 legs of power and probably has at least one 240V outlet.

>Chinese electric tea kettle may actually now stand a chance to kill me.
good. kettlefags deserve death

intended for 18 AWG

they're not that expensive you know
no reason to be so butthurt

We already use 240V split phase for driers and stoves :^)

Use the burner on your stove and a metal kettle

You have a 240V plug, just unplug your dishwasher or AC moron.

wtf do you live in section ape housing or something?

Section 8 housing is fucking nice around where I live, $300k rented to dindus for next to nothing per month I bet they even have the new fancy 20amp outlets and breakers

10A is only for light or "fixed" circuits

No outlet will be 10a

won't that cause an unbalanced load? 240V still has a neutral for that very reason IIRC

Are you? 480 runs to homes and is broken down to 240 on a center tapped transformer. Thus one side to center tap is 120, and across trans is 240.

Brainlet.

Pic related is mfw they don't use LP space heaters with oxygen sensor switches. LP is cheap and if you have a winter power outage you still have heat. (Fuck kerosene space heaters unless you hate your lungs, your wallet and fire safety in general.)

Best backup to electric heat is a gas fireplace insert or heater and a gas stove on the opposite end of the house, and you get to enjoy cooking with gas too.

No it has a neutral so a 240v element dryer can have 120v electronics.

>tfw I call my desktop spaceheater because it runs 2 130w xeons and 2 rx 480's

No shit.

My old P4 would noticeably raise the interior temp of my uninsulated shipping container shop if left on overnight.

We have both,but we don't do anything to actually distinguish and we eat monkey soup.
So be careful what you wish for. You start with 240v, then suddenly you start to hunt down monkeys.

>Summer
>Running PC at all heats up room beyond belief
>Winter
>Mining monero on my 1080Ti, 1700X and 2x Xeon X5650 server
>Doesn't help heat things at all
>Electricity is included in rent so I still do it

>120v electronics.
So it would cause an unbalanced load? or does the ground become your "neutral" I'm newish to electricity

>So it would cause an unbalanced load? or does the ground become your "neutral" I'm newish to electricity
It does, but the system can handle unbalanced loads just fine. Just by having multiple circuits on the different 120V phases, you will have unbalanced loads anyway. Using 120V electronics in your 240V appliance is identical to having the appliance use a 240V plug for high power and a separate 120V plug for electronics that you plug into a regular circuit, and it's not like all those 120V appliances cause any issues.

isn't this what RCDs are supposed to prevent or are they not used in usa? (also electricity noob)

Breakers also pop faster during worse overcurrent conditions.

>delicate electronics
Are not generally connected to 120V. The type of conditions that trigger breakers do not affect electronics. The overcurrent protection device that protects branch circuit whether fuse or breaker is really only for one thing. It keeps the wire in your walls from catching its surroundings on fire. Any protection for delicate electronics needs to be done in the device itself.

If you want to keep a final amp transistor from self destructing with the terminals shorted you're not going to stop it with a fuse of any sort. You need something solid state that operates in about a microsecond. One AC cycle is 16,667 microseconds. That's a fucking eternity for delicate electronics.

>isn't this what RCDs are supposed to prevent
No. RCDs detect current that is flowing through neither a phase or a neutral. In the unbalanced load example, the sum of the currents through phase1 / phase2 / neutral is still zero, which RCDs are fine with. When the loads are out of balance while the imbalance is NOT covered by the neutral, THEN the RCD will sound the alarm.