What are some good ones? I'm looking for a decent one between $500-800 . Obviously gonna have to be used. Between 80-100 wpc with low thd would be ideal.
Right now for new the Schiit Vidar is on the table. Looking at some older NAD and Adcom ones that tickle me. Most likely gonna pair it with a Schiit Sys cause I don't need a million inputs and if I do I could upgrade to a preamp with more easy.
Other urls found in this thread:
balanced.com
audiogon.com
audiogon.com
audioasylumtrader.com
hypexshop.com
soundandvision.com
audiogon.com
youtu.be
twitter.com
I just got mine in the mail yesterday. I reccomend pass labs. I'm using them to power KEF ls50 and they sound great in AB mode. Obviously theyre meant To drive 90db+ sensitive speakers which is why I'm getting new speakers ASAP ( in a few days.)
Beautiful gear but out of my budget. I got like a grand to work with right now. Then Ill be looking for speakers later to go with it. I just wanna get the amp out of the way. Already know I'm getting the sys cause all I need is the two inputs and I can use a splitter for the out to get a sub. Maybe add a use a headphone amp with outs also.
Where you located? If Canada I'm selling my anthem 225 integrated for $1000 shipped or $900 locally. I'm in the GTA.
US. Thats a good deal though.
Hard to find a lot reviews on the Schiit Vidar. I guess for the price it performs like a $2000 amp. I'm most likely going to go that route.
audiogon.com
this is probably the best you can get for less than double that price.
also chekc here
audioasylumtrader.com
Thanks for the recs.
hypexshop.com
Build your own you little bitch
I've been using two Behringer A500s in bridge-mono mode with some $4000 floorstanding speakers. They work great and have a lot of steam even with a 4 ohm load.
What speakers?
dude raid the pawn shop, especially a minority one. These people have no idea what they're selling most of the time.
>Looking at some of the products of said brand
>Some amps prices go as high as $85000
>EIGHTY FIVE FUCKING THOUSAND DOLLARS
Please explain to me, why do you "audiophiles" HATE money, and yourselves?
I don't understand how is it possible that people can be intelligent and capable enough to make sufficient money to buy diamond-priced placebos but cannot for the life of them realize simple realities: in the electronics industry, there are no "audiophile grade" "85k-tier" resistors, capacitors, transistors, ics, and the like. It is for the most part THE FUCKING SAME. You a literally trowing money in the trash for snake oil that uses the same tech as your home theater receivers, while acting smug about it, bragging about literal placebo that differentiable from your run of the mill big brand amplifier. It blows my mind. This is why authoritarianism exists.
I'm sure there is a difference but not one that is worth that kind of money. Behringer A500 looks like a really affordable amp with good specs. Definetly thinking of that now with a Schiit Sys. Thats like 250 altogether and it can power anything you throw at it.
because we can poorfag
Good enough reason.
Honestly some Behringers are good enough for most everything, you can even run monoblocks because they're pretty affordable. Some A500s are what I have.
But how do they sound. Like the best amp I had was an 80s Denon Integrated that I fried like a dumbass. Sound it had was so crisp and clear. Does the Behringer have good sound? It clearly has power from the reviews and videos I've watched but I just need to know about the sound it produces.
I just knew that was going to be some kind of retard that would come up with this one word non-answer. Kill yourself my man.
>behringer
are you really this lame
what are going to use the amp to drive
NAD is mid-tier, and Adcom is competent and inexpensive
>Bragging about being irrational and disregarding the value of money/diminishing returns.
Pathetic and sad. This is why you'll always be middle class cattle.
I want to get SVS Ultras and one of their subs. Best to get a used Adcom or NAD?
I think it sounds quite transparent, which is all you want from an amp. My friend and I did a double blind test with his Emotiva monoblocks and none of us could tell the difference.
t. audiophile
>SVS Ultras
soundandvision.com
the bookshelf speakers have a recessed midrange for voice, and they may sound hot (not good) because the upper treble has a peak
are you getting these new? a trip to an audio salon might be useful -- one that sells high end speakers
svs are 8 ohms so either nad or adcom
Unfortunately I don't have any local places around to audition equipment.
That's rough, but unless you're really remote I would strongly suggest trying to demo some speakers. Plan a day around it, a mini vacation, select some music you're familiar with and some you've never heard, eat a nice lunch, listen a few more minutes and head home.
Shave your disgusting facial hair first
Clean shaven friend.
Well I only paid $3k Canadian for one. Secondly why be so upset over someone else's purchasing habits?
SVS is well known for subs, but not for regular range speakers. Depending on what you're using these speakers for, you might get better quality buying used gear that's been taken care of by an audiophile. I've purchased very good quality speakers at 1/3 to 1/2 off, and in essentially mint condition, from audiophile sellers whom had collected too much and wanted to get rid of inventory. If you don't want to do too much research, SVS looks okay, but it's a lot of money to lay out without actually hearing it first. Googling "SVS vs" is sometime useful; and avoiding anything that BestBuy sells is also useful.
My system is Cambridge Audio HT Receiver --> Krell + SAE amps --> Quad 21 + Dyanudio 1.3 + Martin Logan Motion 2 + REL sub
...
A well made amp will last decades, and has good resale value.
that's a great amp but its output limits the speakers you can drive
Agreed. Good thing mine fits both those categories eh? Not only that, pass gear is coveted and always in high demand. Due to the fact I live in the most populous city in my country, I could flip all the used gear I buy (usually from old white guys in Quebec who have no chance of making a local sale) I could sell in a week. I did take a chance with shipping, this thing weighs over 75lb not including the shipping box.
Yes that makes sense if I were going to buy my speakers based on my amp. I'm not and I'm picking up my new 96db sensitive speakers this weekend. Also I did a test of what the amp will sound like pushing my KEF ls50 and it still sounded great. The xa30.5 only runs class A in the first 30w BUT can push 200w under 3 ohms once it switches to AB. And yes it still sounds wonderful in AB. Obviously not the way to use the amp, but it's nice to have th option.
I'm in the same boat. Currently using an older Yamaha AX330 and want to upgrade. The price range I'm looking at is similar too (between $400 and $1000). Not sure if I want to go with a new NAD or Cambridge, or look for something higher end 2nd hand.
A guy a couple towns over has a 2nd hand Rega Brio for sale for $700.
yamaha a-s500
$4000, can't you read?
>Toronto fag blows money out his ass because he's a retard with too much money and not nearly enough sense
>more at 11
??? Okay so what speakers? Thanks for reminding me their price? Funny that, I'm paying $4k for my speakers as well.
Little man who doesn't know what good sound is like and takes out his frustration on others online. Not once have I mentioned how much I paid for anything,btw.
Why not vintage?
>Not once have I mentioned how much I paid for anything,btw.
>look at me, I paid a lot but I won't tell!
Any $10 TPA3116 from Aliexpress ;)
>Post your audio setups
I didn't pay a lot
Inferior sound to modern day solid state
Vintage tube amps can be nice
>Inferior sound to modern day solid state
How so? I've brought my old Marantz to friends houses to see if they like theirs vs mine and everyone has said the Marantz sounds better so far
Granted nobody has McIntosh/equivalent
You said you paid $3k CAD for your 30wpc stereo amp.
I have plenty of good audio equipment. You don't have to spend anywhere near $3k to get a good stereo amplifier.
By objective standards a good solid state amp will produce better audio fidelity. Some people prefer the warmth of a tube amp, that doesn't make it a better amp.
>>You don't have to spend anywhere near $3k to get a good stereo amplifier.
True but I didn't get a good stereo amplifier I got a great one
deluding your self OP... and your doing it wrong. You should look into how much power scales with loudness and how even 1 or 2 watts can be loud
Unless you have really hard to drive speakers you should be fine with a modern integrated amp and bookshelfs / flooorstanders. If you want big volume and shaking the house you spend money on decent sub and spend time reading how to intergrate it properly.
And do what i did. Digital crossovers management and a 600 watt hand built kit sub amp for a hand built 12inch dual voice coil carbon sub.
I have super hi fidelity and pull 115db (c) on my measurement mic and can shake my nieghbours house but my main speakers are pissy 35watt chimp amps and they dont run out of steam because they are crossovered @ 100hz
pic related is my amp i built 10 years ago
>hurr
No, you overpaid massively because you bought into snake oil.
and here is the rest of my system from 10 years ago... as i said 35watt chimp amps on woof and tweet. 600 on the sub.
friendly reminder your tweeters dont need hundred of watts but your bass bins do.
10 wpc tube amp with a pair of Jubilee and you'll blow the place down
oops pic related
That looks awful tho
>>overpaid massively
Nah I really didn't. If you're trying to make me feel bad or something it's not working.Cool amp
I love it user
I'm not trying to make you feel bad, I'm trying to make you understand that paying $3000 for a two channel 30wpc amp is idiotic.
>Output Power - 2x 38W (KT150/120), 2x 16W (KT88), 2x 14W (EL34)
Probably sounds amazing
Could get the same sound out of a much cheaper amp. Besides, that's a tube amp. If we're just ditching fidelity and going for what we enjoy listening to, you could definitely find something you like for way cheaper than that.
The fact you keep going on about how it's 30w amp shows you know nothing about it... ive said like half a dozen times how the xa30.5 actually works. Have a nice night user, when I get home from work tonight I'm gonna listen to music for 4 hours then go to bed happy :)
Yes, I understand it's a switchable A/AB amp but if you're just going to run it in AB there are a ton of quality AB amps for much less money. You've also said you're buying speakers so you can run it as a class A, so your point is moot.
Wait....
>Toronto
>still at work
>shitposting while at work
Hmmm.....smells like blue collar
>bluecollar
>having time to shitpost at work
Nah, that's exclusively a white collar thing.
I worked retail several years ago user. There's plenty of time to shitpost in retail.
>retail is bluecollar
keep kidding yourself.
Fine, service industry. Point is you're a wage cuck justifying his existence by posting his expensive audio purchases on a vietnamese finger painting forum.
thanks
dude that photo is from 2007 when i just built it in my parents basement. That photo was just to show the layout and concept.
i moved out a long time ago and still cant logically better it in any way. I always wanted stereo subs butnless i move to woods i can disturb the whole neighborhood at half volume.
What the core is a basically 6 x 24/96 infinately variable DACs driving 4 35watt amps hooked to woofer and ribbon tweeters directly and summed sub channel going to 600 watt sub amp
i built it before i had a computer and hi-res content was available... now i am sitting back with 3TB of 24bit rips and i am in heaven.. Futureproof man. Here it is now 10 years later. Studio with a view.
I'm not that guy though and I don't have time to shitpost during work.
I'm selecting OP but this goes for anyone in this thread -- what the hell is in these things that warrants a $500 price tag?
>what the hell is in these things that warrants a $500 price tag?
specifically its a big linear power supply (big transormer and caps) some good audio components and good quality enclosure.
They last forever. Also ask yourself why a welder or lab power supply is expensive. Same Dice.
Iron memes
The transformer on some of these class a amps is 2/3 of the weight.
lol, why don't you know about $4000 speakers????
they're P.A. speakers, prolly, since the amps are Behringer
Vintage electronics, depending on the brand, can be risky, since the cost of repair can be multiples of the purchase cost; scratchy pots, weird statics, etc.
>I'm deaf and my audio lacks resolution in the highs, lows, and mids
it really depends on your speaker capabilities and demands; 4 ohm speakers can be hard to optimize with lower power, lower current amplifiers; that said, most higher end amps can be found for under 1.6K U.S. in used good condition -- but some people do make a lot of money and don't care
it's okay -- but it's underpowered for some high end speakers
a good proportion of the high end speakers are difficult to drive
some people just want well-resolved hi fidelity, though
ultimately, how much he pays is not really your concern; but if it is, you have other issues
don't go crazy on us -- 30W class A is okay for an 8 ohm rated speaker set, but it's not going to get the most from a 4 ohm speaker pair, or two -- if you're going to defy laws of electronics, then you need to buy more magical apple products, too
as for this, it's personal choice
tannoy mx1? not the best speaker
why bother with all this electronics fudging when your output sources are so-so
higher quality electronic components, and brand
>>it's okay -- but it's underpowered for some high end speakers
Yeah and? Not all high end speakers are low sensitivity. In fact I'd say it's about 50/50. Any good horn loaded speaker (what I'm getting) will be sensitive enoug to be driven by a few watts. You can always biamp with a class d for the woofers.
>>don't go crazy on us -- 30W class A is okay for an 8 ohm rated speaker set, but it's not going to get the most from a 4 ohm speaker pair, or two -- if you're going to defy laws of electronics, then you need to buy more magical apple products, too
As I said, I'm getting 96db sensitive speakers. If I you do the math, at 100db spl, that's 16w. I'll give you the benefit of the doubt and assume you didn't see the other dozen or so posts I've made tonight where I detail this. But not every high end speaker is found to be sensitive. In fact I'd argue otherwise: horn loaded speakers tend to be the most sensitive and provide the most reliastic audio reproduction. And this is the last time I'll say this, price is NOT relative to performance. If you guys can't even be bothered to audition a good amp like my pass why even comment? Bunch of armchair nerds, I swear.
Also last time I say this but my pass can push well over 2ohms in class AB, and even more in class B. Why anyone would do That I don't know, but I can confirm that class AB sounds really really good as well.
I recorded a short video. Ignore the crappy audio quality, my phones mic sucks. It's only boomy sounding because I'm two feet under the drivers. But it demonstrates that the amp sounds pretty much the same I'm class AB. youtu.be
Well over 200w*
>wanting anything other than genuine mkintosh 2300s
>audition a good amp
the X30.5 is a good amp, but it has clear limitations on dynamic depth as well as future speaker options
"The Pass's effortless, almost lazy feel did lack some of the snap and energy I heard with other amps. Instead of turning the volume down a bit to tame the crescendos, with the Pass I was constantly turning the volume up—partially because there was no glare to tone down, but also in a quest for more impact and drive. Parsing it into audiophile terms, the XA30.5's macrodynamics—the big swings and huge crescendos—weren't as large as with my other, far more powerful amps. Where my VTL Ichibans would transition from, say, ppp to ffff, the Pass would go only from ppp to perhaps ff. Don't get me wrong—the XA30.5 had dynamic range, just not as much as my larger, pricier, class-AB goliaths.
To be fair, I was running the XA30.5 well out of its comfort zone. Nelson Pass explained to me that the front-panel meter, which indicates the amount of current being drawn from the wall, "should sit somewhere in the middle" and "won't move if you're running in class-A." During most of my listening sessions, the meter would bounce between the middle and, say, the three-quarters point of its range. When I was listening to and for large dynamic swings, the meter would frequently be pegged. This didn't seem to bother Pass when we discussed it, though he did say, "Hmmm...so you're pulling a lot of juice." Well, maybe if I'd gotten those XA200.5 monoblocks... "
no limitations as long as you use them with sensitive speakers the whole stereophile review is a joke aside from the measurements page
>
cool specs of the ls50
whats that got to do with the xa30.5?
Kef said they are meant to drop to 3.2 ohms