This thread is about the appreciation of whorology, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch, clock, or other timepiece.
>Required viewing for noobies:
youtu.be
>Used watch guide:
pastebin.com
>Strap guide:
pastebin.com
>Watch essentials 102:
pastebin.com
>Previous Thread
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What are you wearing today?
ol faithful
Sorry about your balls, bro.
yo is this like grinder for watch fetishists
this is p gay senpai
First for I hope to god this picture is finally in the correct orientation
also new winder
52 KS Special today. Hopefully this time the picture actually uploads.
Me too
Lads, should I get an Omega aqua terra? There's a new one at an AD near me with a hefty discount (£2800 vs normal price of £4080)
Congrats user, I'm proud of you
>Lads, should I get an Omega aqua terra?
No. The Aqua Terra model is extraordinarily overpriced for the level of external finishing and horrible Chinese outsourced bracelet it comes with, not to mention that Omega's implementation of the co-axial escapement is a white elephant with far more downsides than benefits.
Shouldn't 2800 pounds be enough to get you a look at a second-hand Rolex Explorer 114270 or an in-house Tudor Black Bay? Either would be enormously better values.
My Dad's old Seiko 5.
Post watch collections. Updated my Seiko collection pic.
Also user with the vintage Rolex, Tudor, and fagbeads did you ever take a collection pic?
>Post watch collections. Updated my Seiko collection pic.
Which Slavshit Bauhaus watch should I get anons? Looking for everyday wear, something that looks good in a city.
Also considering Junghans
Wearing my Wyler Lifeguard at work today.
Just saw a Kerbholz. They're horrible hipster startup garbage, which is a shame since with a logo, name and font like that they should be making Bauhaus masterpieces, not wooden DOGSHIT.
The one I changed the battery in had the gasket misaligned and pinched out of the factory, so it would have gotten fucking flooded if it got near water. Not really the worker's fault though, the whole case and caseback design was fucking retarded and I probably didn't get it right either.
Not really a fan of the explorer but I could get a tudor.
What are the downsides to the co-axial? Is it harder to service?
>What are the downsides to the co-axial?
pretty much everything
Look into Luch and Poljot. Just be patient and look for a crisp example, make sure the handset looks at least somewhat correct, and don't overspend.
>Is it harder to service?
Essentially yes. Part of the point of the original daniels coaxial was to eliminate the need to lubricate the escapement. However omega's version still needs a microscopic amount of lube. Without that precise amount the teeth start eating themselves.
Alright solar fag. Give me one reason why I shouldn't get a citizen solar diver over a Seiko?
The theory behind it was that they would need to be serviced less often. In reality, the opposite seems to be true.
There is no reason. In my opinion the seiko solars look a little better. (the hands on most citizens look silly to me, but that's a matter of preference)
Both seiko solar and citizen eco-drive are mature technologies and should go for 10-20 years without issue
buy the one you think looks and feels best, they are basically the same from a reliability point of view
The short version is that Omega's version of the co-axial escapement makes the movement much harder to service, and more delicate in several respects, while not extending service intervals at all.
My Citizen Hisoynic tinnitus-simulator.
Not the same user, but when was solar tech introduced to Seiko and Citizen's lineup?
I ask because their vintage models tend to look a lot better than their current mid tier offerings.
BZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZZ
There's a lot of not so good looking Citizen divers but some very good ones too
>Not the same user, but when was solar tech introduced to Seiko and Citizen's lineup?
Citzen like 30+ years ago Seiko in 1969
OH MY GOD SHUT THE FUCK UP ABOUT OMEGA COAXIAL. It is not only fine but one of the most durable mass market movements out there. The finishing is also fine you have nothing but fucking anecdotes. You can't even demonstrate that the finishing is sub par. I mean fuck me i don't even like that watch but come up with some valid fucking criticisms you nip loving faggot.
seiko solar fag here, I like that Citizen. I will probably get one this year.
wrong
So does the Daniels version
longest recommended service interval out of any manufacturer.
wrong
This is the point in the thread its going to crash and burn
Neat. I've been getting vintage watches with interesting movement types lately, I'll keep a look out for a vintage solar. Do you know if they generally use a capacitor, or a battery? I imagine either one may need replacement after so long.
>Luch and Poljot
Ok thanks, define overspend? Also, how accurate are we talking here. I don't want something that is going to gain 30 seconds a day.
Should I cash out my bitcoin today and buy a Tudor Black Bay?
i don't want it to go below $7000, I thought I was going to be able to buy a house with my profits, but now a nice watch looks more likely :/
No, they're garbage.
tee hee, good morning boys~!
>longest recommended service interval out of any manufacturer
That doesn't exactly mean shit. Doesn't Rolex recommend a service every five years or so? I've seen plenty of vintage models that haven't been serviced in fuck knows how long still keeping good time.
>$7000
How much real money did you put in?
They call them power cells but yes they are basically batteries and go bad, they can be replaced though- however before buying you should look into what is involved to replace in that specific year and model watch to know what you might be getting into
$1525
Thanks for the info; will do. I'm pretty competent at electronics repair, hopefully that will translate over.
We just went over this in the last fucking thread. Bitcoin is in a huge dip right now. If you just hold it for a while you can cash out later. It doesn't matter if you bought it at 1k or whatever you did buy it at, you can afford to wait. It's so low right now it doesn't make any sense to sell unless you need the money.
You could just wait until it inflates again (which it inevitably will).
Factory recommendations don't mean shit. At least they're rarely based on real life. I've just serviced an eight year old ETA 2824 that certainly could have gone a few more years safely.
Just because they keep good time is not an indicator that they don't need service. Believe it or not servicing a watch doesn't just aim to let it keep good time, it also lets it survive.
Anyone knows which model is this?
Also is it any good?
Sorry, I have no interest in enabling another one of your meltdowns.
>omegaforums.net
This is like finding a service story of a grand seiko run for months without lubricant. it would be the same thing it not relevant at all.
A quote from the article you linked 500 times already.
"So clearly these can wear either from lack of service (like any watch can) or from improper oiling."
...
Don't spend over $80, and even then that is pricey for Russian shit unless it is some proven rare model. Accuracy is a gamble but you can bring it to a watch guy to regulate if it really bothers you. Definitely save up for a Max Bill at some point though. Saw one in person awhile ago and they are pretty clean
I'm dumb, where should I go right now if I want to convert money into bitcoins?
If Bitcoin is down right now that means now's the time to buy right?
I'm aware, I was just using that as an extreme example. The only watch I own that I care enough to get serviced with any regularity is my Spaceview.
Please don't engage with him, he'll just ruin the thread with 50+ posts of raging samefagging for the 20th or 30th time on the same topic. No one wants to see him shit up ANOTHER thread with one of his meltdowns. Just ignore him please.
Hi /wt/
I got picture related half price in the sales (£150). Did I do good? I really like it so far, but I haven't learnt how to use all the functions yet.
Model name?
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BN0150-28E
not to mention That was their first go at mass producing the co-axial and the escapement design in the 9301 and other movements is a totally different animal.
BN0149-57EE actually
yes that is very fair you just say something is shit; someone disagrees stating valid points and they are the ones sperging out and shitting up the thread. I am not the person you argued with about omega or rolex finishing. I am simply tired of you incorrectly putting down a set of movements and watches for no reason while recommending garbage Japanese watches. We know there are 5 or 6 Canadians on here that use this board as a seiko forum but don't be a fucking prick.
HA HA HA HA
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Please stop responding to me.
Soyko Penis.
That's one of the early iterations.
Everything Archer ever posted was about the early "two-level" versions, not the new "three-level" versions cut down the lubrication points from 30 to 10, for starters.
Archer has zero practical experience with the new co-axials which were designed from the ground up as opposed to retrofitted in the older versions.
This is literally the only place on the internet that I've seen so much shit being flung at Omega and their co-axial. Fairly sure it's just one or two autists that live in here, waiting for their shot to sperg out
I think Rolex now says 10 years, but the watches will keep working for a lot longer than that.
If you need/want the functionality, it's good.
That watch was run without lubricant.
It has to be. even if you make a single reasonable comment you "sperging out" or "shitting up the thread".
Hello. Do you know how long my watch is likely to last? (see here ). Every day use, and lots of outdoor activities.
I bet ten years from now when all the gen. 2 cuck-axials are properly worn we'll have similar discussions, like "BUT the gen. THREE cuck-axials are the whole different animal now, Omega recommends a six-million years service interval!".
no they don't that is just the average customer service interval.
Is it solar? The G-Shock recharchable batteries are supposed to be good for 20-25 years
>Hello. Do you know how long my watch is likely to last? (see here ). Every day use, and lots of outdoor activities.
if you replace the battery every 7 or so years, 50 years probably
So is it shitty?
>this is just an early iteration
>it's just that real co-axials have never been tried yet
Is the co-axial the communism of horology?
The gen 2 co-axials have been out for over ten years.
can you fucks just go in your nip containment board so that the rest of us can discuss all watches and brands objectively?
And there's barely any info about them since independents can't even touch them. It all goes to Omega where they likely swap out the parts that are more prone to wear.
All me.
oh so now its a conspiracy where no one knows about the parts wearing. Is the earth flat as well?
>And there's barely any info about them since independents can't even touch them.
Archer is an independent.
>It all goes to Omega where they likely swap out the parts that are more prone to wear.
You mean like all movement servicings?
>Archer is an independent.
Did Archer ever touch a 2nd gen?
>You mean like all movement servicings?
Good goy. Yes, those pesky independents deserve none of your shekels!
Yes it's solar powered. 20-25 years? Wow. That's great. Thank you.
It's solar powered. Surely it will last longer than 7 years?
>Did Archer ever touch a 2nd gen?
Like I said, no.
That's the point; all the lubrication and wear information is from his handling of the 2-level generation of co-axials, not the current 3-level generation.
>Good goy. Yes, those pesky independents deserve none of your shekels!
But there are independents. Like Archer.
>It's solar powered. Surely it will last longer than 7 years?
yeah the solar will probably go 15-20 years without issue- perhaps significantly longer
Five (5) fives.
quints checked
"Seiko, who manufacturer Seiko Solar watches, recommend that you replace the battery every 10 years" they can last 20 years however.
>all the lubrication and wear information is from his handling of the 2-level generation of co-axials, not the current 3-level generation.
And so you assume the wear issues then don't apply to the new ones, because Omega says so? Like they said with the 2500, when they were rewriting internal service documentation almost every month to find an oiling method when the watch would still keep working?
>But there are independents. Like Archer.
Yes, and we can barely touch anything made in the last ten years because everything is restricted by the manufacturer.
The service thing does not bother me. I mean I am going to have to get the watch serviced regardless of co-axial or not. I don't get the big deal servicing is something you just do eventually.
he was talking about his lcd casio, I figure they are good for 15-25 years if you don't do weird shit to it like leave it in your hot ass car in the summer all the time or freeze it out, it will just be a function of how you treat the power cell as it is just a chemical battery and won't last forever
same is true of the seiko solars and eco drives, they should last long enough if not abused that service intervals are not an issue, hard to bitch about a service every 15 years...
Thanks! I really like this watch and hope it will last me a long time.
How do Seiko do against Casio in terms of solar batteries?
>And so you assume the wear issues then don't apply to the new ones, because Omega says so?
No, because the movements are significantly different.
The 25xx series was a two-level design that was retrofitted into a base movement.
The 85xx series is a three-level design that was built from the ground up.
Archer himself acknowledges the vastly different architecture, among others saying the number of lubrication points was reduced from 30 to 10.
>Yes, and we can barely touch anything made in the last ten years because everything is restricted by the manufacturer.
"Restricted"?
If you're talking about the fact that Omega recommends sending it to Omega for official servicing, pretty much all brands do that to some extent.
And Omega does give classes to independents on how to service co-axials, Archer went to them.
Your LCD casio is different than an analog watch with hands, the analog watch has moving parts to take into account, an LCD watch if not abused should go 50 years with just changing the solar power cell out every few decades
the moving hands add moving parts and friction that an LCD does not have, they should last a long time though, 10+ years is a long time
Yes. This was a big factor in deciding to go with an LCD instead of an analog display. I much prefer the aesthetic of analogs, but I figured the less moving parts the less that could go wrong.
Aquanaut today. Pic related. This watch is perfect for my needs. Waterproof and sporty. Rubber strap I'm not afraid to damage.
Next on the list is the Cartier de Drive extra flat if I can get a nice deal on release. Manual wind is perfect for occasional use.
Got a Rolex YM from 16 years ago. Should I sell it and get a different Rolex model or keep it as it's my first?
