/wt/ - Watch Thread

This thread is about the appreciation of horology, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch, clock, or other timepiece.

>Required viewing for new people:
youtu.be/E6WMenS141A

>Used watch guide:
pastebin.com/4cP1Tpri

>Strap guide:
pastebin.com/SwRysprE

>Watch essentials 102:
pastebin.com/VBAu4Rwi

>Previous thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

youtube.com/watch?v=rL0_vOw6eCc
forbes.com/sites/anthonydemarco/2013/07/09/what-is-a-grand-complication-watch/
youtube.com/watch?v=lwk5OUII9Vc
watchesbysjx.com/2018/02/helmut-sinn-legendary-maker-of-pilots-watches-dies-at-102.html
youtube.com/watch?v=xxaZcInIb6E
youtu.be/M1Be89xssps
twitter.com/AnonBabble

I am looking for to buy a few powercells to keep around in the years to come to keep my Solar Seiko running and have on hand to keep the value of my investment if I ever want to sell. Just in case Seiko does not produce them in the years to come or servicing is difficult. What can I do? Should I buy a few powercells and keep them in the freezer?)

First for the opening salvo in the coming MEMS revolution.

Call me when it appears in a watch that isn't a skeleton and

Does the intricate (silicon?) thingamajig simply replace the balance, with the rest of the mechanism remaining the same as in a traditional watch?

I haven't seen drawings but I assume the rest of the gear train would be kinda similar to an Accutron or something.

Biver claims they intend to eventually roll derivatives of the ZO 342 across multiple lines and brands, including Zenith, Hublot and even TAG HUEHUE.

The silicon oscillator largely replaces the entire escapement.

don't mind me just posting some watch kino
youtube.com/watch?v=rL0_vOw6eCc

The sillicon part replaces both the pallet fork and the balance. The escape wheel is also different from a Swiss lever movement. The rest should be the same

Bump for interest, Where can you buy the power cells?

>you will never be able to afford a patek grand complication
why live

The only grand complication watch I would even be remotely interested in owning is the Vacheron Constantin Celestia Astronomica

BETTER BUY A WACH WINDER LOL KEK XD

If only it wasn't a one-off, or $1m.

If you owned and wore that thing nobody but the biggest watch nerds would ever think it is anything but some gaudy piece of shit from ebay

This shit right here boys

How much would it cost to commission something like this to be made today?

could you put in a seiko solar power cell to keep it wound? I bet it is quite the chore to reset when it dies!

^_^

Lol, that's like i always say i am not interested in a gf but only because i know i will never have one.

...

Wouldn't help, it's manual wind. It does have a 21-day power reserve at least.

>I'm only interested in watches based on how much social approval they can get me
Disdain for plebs.jpg

My main interest in watch collecting is high end production watches, not haute horlogerie. While I respect haute horlogerie as art, there are very few of those watches I'd ever be interested in owning. This VC is one of those every few, buy that's mostly because it shares a few key design elements with stainless steel sports watches in the Rolex/GS mold, such as the sharply angular baton indices and angular dauphine hands.

Gay

Another one of those extremely expensive & technically impressive watches that also look ugly as fuck. It's almost like the more they cost the worse they look.

So far as such pieces go, I actually think it looks pretty decent. For instance: I love A. Lange, but they can't design a decent looking dial to save their lives.

I feel like a watch isn't a grand complication without a chronograph

looks retarded

Then your feelings are invalid.

>hold on let me check my wrist to see if it's winter

Lmao

Agreed, a grand complication should have a split second chronograph, perpetual calendar, and minute repeater

For you.

Too many complications with too little dial space always affects the looks. As for Lange, I don't like their asymmetric dials but the 1815's and Richard Lange lines are pure class ...

That would be pretty sweet, but the cut off numbers really get my autism revving, traditional or not.

Don't get me wrong I like the watch I just don't think it meets the requirements. Neither does the wiki definition. It has all and more from the centre but none from the left or right.
>Agrand complicationis a watch with several complications, the most complex achievements ofhaute horlogerie, or fine watchmaking. Although there is no 'official' definition,[2]one common definition is a watch that contains at least three complications, with at least one coming from each of the groups listed below:

>grand complication
>does not even have a seconds hand
Seems pretty bad :^(

Well friends, the final. It stopped just over 48 hours, but I was running the chrono while cooking lunch, so that would have taken an hour or two off the reserve.

Considering that on the website it claims a power reserve 'over 40 hours', I think things are definitely in a happy medium. Now I'm going to run the chrono continuously to see if the skipping problems might sort themselves out.

Thanks again for listening...it's fun to share horological enthusiasm with likeminded people, especially if our tastes are widely divergent.

You got yours from watch unique right? Does the caseback have red writing over the display back? Or did you get the solid back?

If they don't, trade it in for another if you can. I know jerky hands would annoy the shit out of me, and honestly at that price point you should expect smooth hand movement. Jerky hands are $50 Timex territory.

...

For me, any watch with 20+ complications is a grand complication, regardless of whether it has a chronograph.

>So what are the complications that make up a grand complication? Again the panelists were in relative agreement: minute repeater, perpetual calendar, moon phases, grand and petite sonnerie, and split-seconds chronograph.
forbes.com/sites/anthonydemarco/2013/07/09/what-is-a-grand-complication-watch/
>Osvaldo Patrizzi, best-known as the founder of Antiquorum, the international auction house for timepieces, is one of the most connected and respected persons in the world of collectable watches
>Michael Friedman, a timepiece auctioneer, museum curator and noted expert on the history of horology
>Edward Faber, founder of Aaron Faber Gallery and author ofAmerican Wristwatches: Five Decades of Style and Design; and Alexis Sarkissian, founder of Totally Worth, a boutique distribution network for luxury timepieces
>The discussion was held the day before Christie’s was auctioning the earliest and most significant example of a Patek Philippe grand complication.
An ultra complicated watch is not necessarily a grand complication.
A Formular 1 car is a race car, so is a Ford GT. A Ford GT isn't a Formular 1 car. In this a race car is ultra complicated watch, Formula 1 is Grand Complication, and the Ford GT is that VC watch.
You seem to be stuck on ultra complicated = grand complication which isn't true.

Reasonably priced auto chronograph with a steel case and bracelet?

...

post some lit horological music, I'll start:

youtube.com/watch?v=lwk5OUII9Vc

That isnt ugly

...

Much better
>auto

they're probably all fake lmao

>posts an even uglier one
Dis nigga.

>uglier

Either some lower end Swatch group brand with an 7750 or a microbrand with a 7750 or Seiko movement.

classy

Yup, watchunique. The caseback is the display back, and it does have the red writing. The option when you buy from them, if you buy the display back, is that they include for free the original solid back.

The red writing doesn't bother me to be honest...and from what I've read, it can be removed easily. I'll see how I feel about it as time goes by.

I've been thinking about this too, but I've also read online horror stories of continuous returns where you return the watch and you get back one that has another problem, and this goes on and on until you've paid so much shipping and duty taxes that you've essentially bought another watch. The duty I paid on this was 1/6th of the total price of the watch...I really don't want to go down that path again, as this whole thing was supposed to be a 'good buy'...lol

The issue is only with the chrono second hand. The running second is smooth (I checked under a magnifying lens), the minute counter advances perfectly, the chrono hands return perfectly, and the movement keeps excellent time. The only issue is that when running the chronograph, the center second hand may jerk or skip slightly; it won't have the full 6 beats per second all the time. Sometimes it'll beat 3 times...sometimes 4, sometimes 5, etc., and it's very unpredictable. I've been reading up on this, and it is a problem that can happen when the wheels that interlock to engage the center second are not regulated correctly. Furthermore, there are also reports that many of these movements are simply not well lubricated and need a minor servicing when you get them. So, if it keeps up, then I'll take it to a watchmaker to see if that is indeed the case, and if he could regulate it for me. Given the movement, apparently it's a relatively 'easy fix', but I'm not inclined to try it myself because I simply don't have the correct tools, and too many watches have been ruined by fools trying to do something like this.

...

>2nd of fifteenth month

literally wat

he's mocking the American way of writing the date

Sorry, forgot a few things.

My hunch is that this problem is with the center seconds gear or wheel; a lack of sufficient lubrication seems to be the logical cause, because the teeth are definitely engaging in the correct spots and the chrono second hand isn't losing any time at all. This is why right now I'm trying a test where I simply run the chrono for a few hours; with luck the lubrication that does exist on the jewel will redistribute a bit, and smooth things out. Perhaps it's the wrong strategy...but it makes sense in my mind.

My hope is that if it doesn't work, then the problem might be such an 'easy' fix for a local watchmaker; it would save me the cost of shipping back and forth for a new watch of which I have no idea if it's okay or not.

Ed who supplies in HK regulates nearly all the ones he gets from the factory before shipping out, which is probably the best reason to go with him. The only reason I didn't was because 1) I didn't read to the end of the WUS forum on this watch because it's about 100+ pages and 2) watchunique at the time of ordering was the only one that had the acrylic crystal at this price. I think Poljot had them too, but more expensive, and longisland watches doesn't have any left.

That's the difficulty of these things...it's a complete crapshoot, and right now this kind of problem is easily the smallest problem I've ever seen on a forum that has been talked about. I'll keep you guys updated on how things go. Thanks for reading.

Is the bracelet on Ray II dogshit?

YYYY/MM/DD hh:mm.ss master race

It's okay. Get a Strapcode if you hate it. Personally, I think it's good enough to not feel the need to spend $80-100 to replace it

My holy trinity.

lol, love it.

I actually have bracelets and I'm thinking of getting some rubber instead. I don't dive but a diver on a leather is pretty ridiculous. Do you guys know any good rubber straps I could put a Ray on?

Vintage Amphibias are the best. What’s /wt/ your favourite one from my collection?
Also feel free to post slavshit, this thread is boring with all that haute hotlogerie fagottry.

Borealis natural rubber dive strap. It's $25 and people out there argue it's at least as good if not better than actual Isofrane rubber straps. I likes the first one I bought so much I got another to put on my AE1200.

this thread is 90% /fa/ and 10% Sup Forums

but so is probably /mkg/

this guy looks girl

>posting tin scrap drunkenly smashed together slavshitters barely better than HMTs
Hitler should have gassed every fucking Slav on earth.

...

I have a Bonetto Cinturini 300D on my Ray and it's bretty gud. A little stiff and the vanilla smell is a bit ridiculous at first

I'd do a LOT of things for oneof those.

Looks solid, thanks cancuck.
While it sounds weird, I think I wouldn't mind my strap smelling like vanilla.

It is STRONG when it's new. Like, fill up the room strong. About 9 months later, i can still smell it when I'm wearing it, but that's about it. Certainly not unpleasant

As a possible bonus, the Borealis isofrane knock offs don't have the strong vanilla scent that Bonetto Cinturini straps do.

riparoni....

watchesbysjx.com/2018/02/helmut-sinn-legendary-maker-of-pilots-watches-dies-at-102.html

I have a Borealis and it's pretty good. But the corners have started to come apart a little from stress or something.
I can really recommend the MN strap from Erika though.

Any chance you could stop buying all of the vintage Amphibias on eBay? How long have you had the blue Scuba dude without a bracelet?

>I can really recommend the MN strap from Erika though

Do what this user says.

If this is the only benefit the Western world got out of it, then it was worth keeping France out of NATO.

I'll be picking up a few more of these straps later this year. I can only assume some fashion brand, magazine or YouTube blogger will mention them and Erika will double or triple the price at some point.

Best Seiko 5 model?

...

>keeping France out of NATO.
????

m'starfield

why are you posting those beat up pieces of shit here? those are homeless guy tier watches

checked

Promised myself to stop buying Vostoks, or any other slavshit by extension... at least for a very long while.
Btw if you are talking Gn. ABout the purple dial scuba dude without bracelet, it’s just a spare parts watch I’m selling. The movement is not working well.
Quints of truth, you are right user. I should get rid of all of them. I want to keep my Sturmanskie though, that’s my favourite piece of slavshit .

I guess the kept themselves out until this century.

Thank goodness for French frogmen and their ingenuity.

nice

youtube.com/watch?v=xxaZcInIb6E

youtu.be/M1Be89xssps

Getting rid of any of it would be borderline retarded. the cool thing about slavshit is you get to add all these technically interesting watches to your collection for almost nothing and you don't have to be afraid to bang them around.

oh look a 36mm explorer what a surprise...

What watch would you wear in this type of environment?

Breitling Emergency

>When even Roger bloody Smith won't buy a co-axial Omega and vocally praises pre-Swatch Omega

The parking lot is right behind the camera

...

Amphibia

Where does one buy a decent leather NATO

FUUUUCK

>dat JLC
>dat 321 Speedy