Can someone explain to me HOW this is even possible?
>Use long (15m) HDMI cable
>Hook up PC to Audio Receiver which is hooked up to TV
>Works well
>Turn on/off lights in room
>HDMI loses connection and then reconnects (black for a second, HDMI handshake tier)
Nothing else has this issue in my house expect for this specific setup. How can HDMI cable length or quality cause this?
The cable in long enough to easily pick up interference from the switching of the lights.
It's a digital signal. Unlike analog where you might perceive this interference as a crack or pop, it can actually disturb the active connection and make the two devices lose the connection.
anything I can do to fix this then? would ferrite help?
by the way, the same thing happens when I hear the fridge kick in
you just have fucking awful house wiring
I know that, but I can't do shit about the wiring.
This op, how many electronics device do you have already broken? I got issue with house wiring myself and kill HVAC and bunch of lighting, HVAC ain't cheap new hvac compressor and evap are costly than fix house wiring.
15m is pushing it for HDMI.
You need a thicker cable. Blue Jeans makes decent ones.
youtube.com
bluejeanscable.com
Go for bonded wire pairs you can afford it.
15m of that is going to cost you $150 though.
nothing
yeah the one I have now is pretty thin and was cheap as shit.
>$150
fuck that. but thanks for the info
Their $40 cable is decent too.
I said a hey hey hey hey heeeyyyyy what's happening here
the longer your cable the more prone it is to electromagnetic interference.
You can try HDMI repeaters which are pretty cheap, but decent solutions (i.e. HDMI over ethernet or LWL cables) are pretty expensive.
wassa wassa wassa wasssuuupppp?
Ferrite would make it worse, are the PC and TV both connected to grounded sockets? Also what kind of lighting do you have? I believe fluorescent bulbs produce most interference, dimmers do too.
>Ferrite would make it worse
No, it won't remove it, but it will dissipate it, may be enough for it not to bother the signal that much anymore and cause a short disconnect.
>are the PC and TV both connected to grounded sockets?
yeah, I don't have grounded sockets in livingroom, just kitchen, so I got an extension plug and plugged them into grounded sockets and still the same issue.
I have E27 LED lamps from philips now, but other lamps do the same (including fridge). no dimmer.
Ferrite might help on the lightbulb transformer but I believe HDMI is so high frequency that a bead would actually dampen the digital signal, then again I guess it might serve to prevent a sudden surge on the line, come to think of it.
Line filter. They're pretty cheap.
could have poor shielding
does it matter how many watts are going through those?
Yeah, definitely. Always go overkill, they are cheap enough and it's good insurance.
True but shielded cat6 or cat5e should be cheaper per foot for a much larger installation.
is the line filter for the PC or the receiver? I'm guessing the source of the signal, so the PC
This is the better way to go OP, the shielding will really help to mitigate interference, however you are probably going to get some decent input lag added to your system.
doesn't HDMI over Ethernet need 2x Ethernet per 1x HDMI cable?
To be truthful, you might want to get one of the larger units that can handle more accessories. I use a TrippLite unit on one of my setups that has six outlets on it. If you're picking up noise on one device, it's probably a problem on the others, too. You may want to search: Line conditioners as well as Line filters. I've seen them called both.
I havent used it myself, I was speaking purely about the use of shielded cable being a huge benefit, however I don't think you do, if you were trying to match wire per wire maybe but I dont think thats what happens. I think they re-encode / compress the data and send it by high speed cat6 to the other RX/TX Ethernet box, where it then again becomes decoded into HDMI's encoded scheme.
which one of these is the right kind?
tripplite.com
>anything I can do to fix this then?
Ferrites can't hurt. They filter common mode signals. So if the interference is getting in through a common mode on a differential signal they'll filter that out. After that I'd try replacing the switch first. It could be arcing more than a new one due to wear on the contacts. A switch is about $2. Then the devices that are on that switch have to be looked at. Florescent fixtures are bad about this. LEDs could do it if the switching power supply is out of whack. Incandescent shouldn't at all. Without any real test equipment you're stuck with trial and error.
The refrigerator issue is likely the contacts on the relays or sequencers involved in turning on the motors in your refrigerator. It could be the start up current on the compressor itself as well. Basically the more spiky a waveform the more high frequency components it has. Higher frequency components are more easily radiated. That's the root of all this crap. Transients associated with start up.
Of course there's the other angle. Instead of making less noise you can block more noise. The ferrites are an example. Filtering is another. Cable with shielding depending how good your shielding currently is. Shorter cables as well. RF interference is a fucking mess.
honestly sounds more like you receiver is dropping out for a sec then kicking back on and that it has nothing to do with the hdmi cable.
If it happens when the fridge kicks on thats more likely.
Assuming you're a fellow Burger,
tripplite.com
sorry user, I'm Dutch.
Ah, well. I'm sure there's an appropriate equivalent in your country.
wrong user. I know this for a fact.
thanks
Are the lightbulbs in the room incandescent? How many bulbs? Inrush current on your bulbs could be doing it. Using LED bulbs could help if this is what's happening. Or, if it's an option, you could try rewiring the lights in the room to use two different circuits.
I had incandescent bulbs, but replaced them with E27 LED.
>Inrush current on your bulbs could be doing it.
I doubt that. He'd be having brownouts or tripping breakers whenever he turned things on. I'm leaning towards the fridge, mine does the exact same thing. My conditioner click and the power light drops to yellow roughly 40% of the time I hear my fridge compressor kick on. I live in a newly wired house, too.
The ">spending more than $5 for a cable when it's all digital" meme does not apply to long ass cables. Get a cable that doesn't have every last penny pinched out of its quality.
Remy?
>He'd be having brownouts or tripping breakers
The lights wouldn't draw enough current for that, but depending on the wiring of the house, they could be producing enough voltage drop across the circuit to disrupt the operation of electronics.
>I'm leaning towards the fridge, mine does the exact same thing.
It's the same thing, user, except over a longer period. Motors draw a lot of current while they start and ramp up to operational speed. That results in a voltage drop on the circuit, which is why you see incandescent lights dim. You'll notice this with any appliances with a motor. Vacuum cleaners, for example.
>It's the same thing, user,
Not really, as someone else pointed out contacts and motors introduce noise, which can do all kinds of weird things. My lights don't dim when the fridge turns on either, leading me to believe it's a noise issue. Also, kitchen and computer room are on separate circuits.
>this far into the thread
>not a single comment about a ground loop
>durr it's noise get a thiccer cable that'll fix it
Sup Forums - Consumer Electronics
Run a dedicated electrical line from the fuse box straight to the components may help. If you need to be cheap about it just buy a breaker, wire and outlet box. Put the breaker in the fuse box and make sure the ground is good, tape down the wire on the floor, hook the outlet box up. If the ground is shit at the fuse box rig a better one. Be sure to shut off the electricity when you do this. Don't ever let an electrical inspector see the setup. If there are children in the house disregard this advice.
Need to also say:
If you don't know shit about electricity definitely DISREGARD THIS POST.
>
>doesn't HDMI over Ethernet need 2x Ethernet per 1x HDMI cable?
We used one of these at one of the sites I administer.
The HDMI signal was just too faint for the distance so we used said adaptor with dual cat6 cables at double the original distance. The signal was rock solid.
>consumer electronics are not technology reeeeeeeeeeeeeee
kys
I don't know shit also I'm renting so I'm not allowed to fuck with anything.
OP here, what is that? please explain
Dude it's already bad enough audio isn't optical running at the speed of light and HDMI is shit with audio since copper but jeasus christ your having 15 feet of audio latency almost at the very least well over 20 milliseconds of audio latency which is very audible
Im pretty sure that HDMI only certifies cables up to 10m due to problems like this!
I read about it a long time ago but still
15M is pretty long for HDMI, but with a good quality cable it shouldn't be a problem (unless you need 4K)
Get a certified premium cable, with the holotag, that will definitely handle it.
OH I just remembered, if you're using an nvidia card, try disabling hdmi audio in the nvidia control panel (Set up digital audio, choose disable at the output), it frees up a lot of bandwith and it will be less wimpy about noise
i have shitty wiring as well.
if i turn on the fan switch, TV loses the HDMI signal from the android box for a second.
HDCP requires some of your bandwith reducing the electronic quality over long distances.
Either get a external powered hub/splitter/coupler or reduce the distance to reduce resistance.
I have this same problem but with a regular sized hdmi cable.
Did you buy the cheapest cable China could make?
