/wt/ - Watch Thread

This thread is about the appreciation of horology, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch, clock, or other timepiece.

>Required viewing for new people:
youtu.be/E6WMenS141A

>Used watch guide:
pastebin.com/4cP1Tpri

>Strap guide:
pastebin.com/SwRysprE

>Watch essentials 102:
pastebin.com/VBAu4Rwi

>Previous thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

ebay.com/itm/SEIKO-SARB017-Mechanical-Alpinist-Automatic-Mens-Leather-Watch-Made-In-Japan/112843094899?epid=5006774577&hash=item1a45f8fb73:g:QzMAAOSweWhal1zL
youtube.com/watch?v=Sg1JKljnf54
wornandwound.com/art-time-taro-tanaka-seikos-grammar-design/
grand-seiko.com/about/design/,
hodinkee.com/articles/breitling-navitimer-8-b01-chronograph-hands-on
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

FIRST!! BOOOYAHH!!!!

This lad's lad lad wakes up and slaps ur gf's ass and calls you a Se*ko Male in return.

What dO?

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Fourth for the GOAT LCD quartz.

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I love whores, and watches.
Am I going to end up like Archie ?

Do you have a job

Buying and selling things online. Unironically.

Anyone have Watchgecko leather?

first for solar divers

nice, how much are those, what do they cost and where is the best place to get them? I have seen you post about it a bit and if they are not to expensive i might get one

my vintage time piece

Who is the bust on the right side supposed to be of?

Lawyer user is always so secretive about his nationality.

He even blurred the titles of his books so we could see the languages they are written in. Even the prices.

>could

cant

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>pocket knife
pussy boi

Gandhi

ghandi faggot

Watchunique

Two busts of Ghandi?

Why is he so into him?

>>pocket knife
>pussy boi
The only reason you could possibly say that is you are British and are not allowed to own knives

are you British?

It's the only manual-wind column-wheel chronograph on the market for $300 or less. There are several places online to get it: watchunique, poljot24, and longislandwatches, but you can also go for one of the other versions made by HKED on the WUS forum. Mine is keeping excellent time, though the regulars here are probably sick and tired of my wall-of-texts about how much I love the watch. Suffice it to say, it's one of the best purchases I've ever made.

>"a 3 inch blade is a deadly and offensive weapon"

I am pretty sure Seiko is a mental illness

cool thanks

They were gifts if I'm not mistaken.

What sort of strap should I throw on this guy?

What's funny is I literally cannot tell if that is a table full of shitters or not.

I know those are Atmos clocks and worth a couple grand each, but I don't see any familiar watches there, could be the resolution.

I am sure they are not aliexpress watches but they could be for all I know. I don't see any speedmasters rolexes tudors GSs etc...

>64921773
You can literally see a speedmaster, an FP Journe, and a Lange

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> Lange front and center
> Journe to its right
> Zenith, AP, and JLC to its left

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that's only about half of his collection.

he's probably nearing a quarter mill for his collection as a whole.

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what is the snail looking thing?

It's a regulator

> especially good results

is that a hand or a deformed midget in the lower left?

The one you've got on it now looks awesome. Were you still thinking of leather? Or perhaps trying to find an old style expansion bracelet?

Brown could look good on it perhaps...maybe even white leather for the summertime.

Is this a scam?

ebay.com/itm/SEIKO-SARB017-Mechanical-Alpinist-Automatic-Mens-Leather-Watch-Made-In-Japan/112843094899?epid=5006774577&hash=item1a45f8fb73:g:QzMAAOSweWhal1zL

$40 Alpinist. hows that work??

Black padded shell cordovan or crocodile.

The problem with what I have on it now is that its super low quality from whatever the eBay seller put on it. I think I want to stay with leather but I don't want it to smell in the summer.
Good places to buy Shell Cordovan?

Seems like a scam, someone who has not sold anything in a year all of a sudden has twenty alpinists for $40?

I'm just wondering how the scam actually works. Ebay will refund this if it doesn't ship right?

You’re going to waste your time, it’ll just be a bad fake.

>Good places to buy Shell Cordovan?
Pic related is Fluco's padded black shell cordovan. I bought it specifically because I wanted that padded look it has after I saw a pic of the same strap on a vintage Rolex Datejust elsewhere.

I'd say grey alligator, but I already did that.

I am tempted to buy one just to see what happens

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Can you bring that strap? Would love to see it.

Thanks

Hit send to quickly, where did you buy it?
You guys are adorable

good luck user

I'll keep you posted.

eBay will also refund it if it's fake.

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Nice, good luck bro

Please let us know how it goes either way

I ordered 2. Worst case is paypal gives me my money back.

i'm thinking hacked account, but i hope gets an insane deal. this looks amazing with the strapcode band

I wonder why someone would think to sell a sarb alpinist from a hacked account for 40dollars, seems like a random item and price to pick, I mean I bet you are right but why 20 alpinists? Why not something else for more money?

> 475 ebay feedback
are you an addict

>open on my phone
>two remaining
>login on laptop
>zero remaining
I hope it's a fake u fucks

lel

i did basically the same thing

Right? they put it at $200 and it would sell just as quick, make more money and look way more legit

i got one. if by some miracle it's real i owe ya bro.

best luck watchbro, its a great piece, post that shit if you get it

Does anyone have canada anons copy/paste where he talks about the old King Seiko hi beat movements / which old KS movements to avoid?

Give me a minute, I'll dig it up for you.

If you are looking for a good value in a vintage Seiko from the late 1960's to 1970's period then I would consider the following model lines:

1) Lord Marvel 5740C. The only Suwa Seikosha entrant on this list. It doesn't hack, and doesn't have a date complication, but its very simplicity is its greatest strength. The movement is extremely reliable and actually has very good inherent accuracy as well (though the lack of hacking makes that a bit of a moot point). Suwa also made absolute boatloads of them over the course of several years so if you ever need a donor movement for parts, it shouldn't be that hard or expensive to get.

2) LM Special 5206/5216. These are Daini Seikosha produced mid-ranged models that use the 52xx movement. While they were not as finely adjusted and regulated at the factory as the more expensive 52xx King Seikos, they still use the same base movement, which is one of the best designed series produced automatic movements of the pre-quartz era. 28,800bph, hacking, handwinding, quickset for day and date, micro-adjuster for the regulator, and great inherent accuracy. One nice bonus is that the less coveted LM Special versions can often be found very inexpensively.

Just be sure not to confuse the Daini Seikosha produced LM Specials with the 52xx movement for the Suwa Seikosha produced Lord Matics with the 56xx movement (which I would avoid).

3) King Seiko 5245/5246/5256. I still consider these to be the most undervalued vintage Seiko model from the pre-quartz era. In terms of accuracy, build quality and today especially reliability and parts availability they should be in my view more desirable than the Suwa Seikosha produced Grand Seikos of the period whose values have already been bid up to the sky.

(1/2)

Cont'd

The 5256 King Seiko Special models deserve special mention as they were produced during the last 6 months of high-end mechanical production at the Daini factory and had tons of extra finishing, adjustment and regulation lavished on them to leave a statement for posterity.

Again, be sure not to confuse the Daini Seikosha produced 52xx King Seikos with the Suwa Seikosha 56xx King Seiko models (which I would again avoid).

While the Daini Seikosha produced 701x chronographs are available for a good deal now, and the movement is reliable and well designed, I can't advocate a vintage chronograph as a value option in light of how much they cost to service. I've also not recommended the Grand Seiko/King Seiko 45xx models, as they are fairly high maintenance and prone to some wear issues (though they have spectacular inherent accuracy).

(2/2)

Cont (3/3)

King Seiko 45xx. These movements were the culmination of Daini Seikosha's total obsession with mechanical accuracy and with the Swiss chronometer trials. The 45xx movement was designed from the ground up solely for the purpose of absolutely maximizing accuracy in a production mechanical movement, and boy does it show. The 45xx is a manual winding 36,000 bph movement with a screw-type micro-regulator and available in both no-date and quick-set date versions. Be warned, however, that the 45xx is unusually prone to excessive wear issues compared to most Daini designed movements as accuracy was essentially the sole design target. These movements are more likely than most Daini movements to eventually need donor parts and donor's aren't easy to find for cheap as no mid-grade watches were ever produced based on the 45xx movement family. That being said, I personally think the King Seiko 45-7001 is the single most perfect expression of Seiko's Grammar of Design, and the movement has a legitimate argument for being the most inherently accurate production mechanical movement in the pre-quartz era (with only the Girard Perregaux 32A family having a reasonable alternate claim on that title). It is also the only production movement to ever both win a Swiss Chronometer trial and pass Neuchatel Astronomical Observatory testing, and this movement family broke the records for mechanical movements in both Geneva and Neuchatel in 1968. One user in /wt/ has one and he will tell you how outrageous this movement's performance is even today, as his runs something like +2 SPD in six positions at full wind and after 24 hours. Just remember that these movements are not for the economically feint of heart. In the first place, you'll typically have to pony up at least $500 to get one in decent shape, and as I said, these movements are more prone to more than average TLC in servicing and possibly eventually needing spare parts.

Why no 44ks

Trying to recall off the top of my head, I believe the 44xx is reputed to have some serious excessive wear issues, even more than the 45xx. Also, the 45xx hi-beat movement is more technically and horologically interesting in my opinion.

Keep in mind that my personal area of interest in vintage watches is in late pre-quartz mechanicals mostly from the 1967-1975 period while the 44KS is from the 1960-1965 period design wise, so I'm mostly going on hearsay in my comments about the 44xx's reliability.

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Drunk but serious question for Seiko guys here. Please help me to understand. First, thanks to the user who compiled this information on the movements and their value...that's 'invaluable' information for anyone seriously looking into purchasing a vintage Seiko.

But help me to understand. The design...god, the design is so fucking ugly. I just can't stand it. It really screams 'generic quartz that tries to look more expensive than it is'. I know that's probably a pleb thing to say, but fuckit, I'm drunk.

Sell me on the merits of the aesthetic design. I can very easily understand, appreciate, and respect the engineering that went into the movement; that is NOT in doubt. But the look of the damn thing....god. Couldn't they have made it...less inhumane?

Please...seriously....someone explain to me what the aesthetic appeal is...I want to understand so I can appreciate the value above the movement itself.

youtube.com/watch?v=Sg1JKljnf54

Dude, you need some fucking glasses. Front row alone: Lange, Journe, AP, JLC, VC.
>I don't see any speedmasters rolexes tudors GSs
Speedmaster right fucking there.

He said his collection is worth over half a million. Once listed several watches that he has actually shown in other pics, on his wrist.
From the top of my head, at least Breguet, Gerald Genta, Chopard and Tudor.

That looks great though. It's all subjective, really. I like it, you don't. Simple as that.

And a fuckton of vintage Omegas in pristine condition.

I know there's more, of course. WHAT precisely do you like about it aesthetically? I'm not trying to troll, I'm trying to fucking understand. Do you like the hands, the face, the casing, the finishing, the crown....etc? Or perhaps it's the proportions, the overall clean aesthetic approach....what is it?

I can't get into it, no matter how hard I try. It seems so damn sterile, so clinical and yet purposefully rejective of organicity....Please, I just want to know. I just don't get it.

Not him, but give this a read:

wornandwound.com/art-time-taro-tanaka-seikos-grammar-design/

I did; someone linked it to me yesterday or the day before. Sorry to make you go through the trouble.

Maybe I should rephrase the question. With the IWC Big Pilot, I understand the attraction; it's the 'ultimate' pilot's watch in terms of ligibility and reliability of movement (give me a little leeway, I'm drunk...). With the Omega Speedmaster, the damn thing was certified to be used in EVA, and has served (for the most part) reliably. The JLC Reverso is a legend in it's own right, not necessarily because of the movement but because of the aesthetic design. The Rolex Submariner is the ultimate dive watch, and has been for over 60 years. et al.

There are many watches along these lines; cherished because of their movement, their aesthetics, or their purpose, or some combination of some/all of these attributes.

When I see a Seiko of this aesthetic design combined with movement, I see a movement that is far superior in complexity, functionality, and execution than the cases that contain them. The balance isn't there...the cases could contain 200$ quartz movements for all we know externally...whereas my intellect and emotions would expect something more.

Please...I don't want to beg, but I think it's gotten to that point The movements sell themselves without difficulty or unsupported merit. But help me to understand why you find these things attractive. What is it? Because I just don't get it.

And saying that 'it's all subjective' doesn't cut it with me. Have the guts to tell me why you like it, specifically, or if you don't feel comfortable with that, then ask me why I hate them aesthetically...maybe that will lead to a more efficient answer.

Sorry, drunk rantings...
>tl:dr I respect the movements, but not the casing. Please help me to understand why you like them.

>wristlet

>Tudor
Finally something I can afford
Which model??

grand-seiko.com/about/design/, too

IMO, the 'no more spheres or 3d curves' combined with hyper-mirror polishing just makes the GS a special midpoint between older locket clasp designs and brushed sport designs. The case also wears nicely in the middle of thin straight lug dress watches and wide hidden lug cushion cases. The polishing and curves just make light hit it to give strong reflections and refractions that belie the seemingly simple case.. The modern GS models have taken some liberties and made some changes to hide the height of modern durable automatic movements or meet the requirements of the market by making nearly every watch available with a bracelet (I'm a big stickler for this because it's an easy way to cut corners that Seiko most of all is guilty of). But the sharp spotlessness and mechanical expertise of the 44GS and 45GS are special.

I like your thought in >It seems so damn sterile, so clinical and yet purposefully rejective of organicity.
Because they were trying to reject organic influence, see pic from the W&W article.
Simplified metalwork so more effort could go into QC and finishing. No more round cases that would be difficult to perfect in the 60s. Just extensive mirror polishing and clean lines to give a shiny and solid base to house the movements that actually were better than the Swiss (in the late 60s).

hodinkee.com/articles/breitling-navitimer-8-b01-chronograph-hands-on

The first couple paragraphs of the article are interesting. Breitling might be coming back to more interesting models soon.
I'm still surprised they used "Navitimer" for this collection of watches though.

The sides of the case towards the lugs are polished and shaped like a fucking katana tip.

>You get to choose one watch from lawyeranon's collection for free or to take a trip to thailand with ac3
What choise will you make?

I'll take the watch, please and thank you.

As if that's a hard choice.

Knife is a tool, you dumpster diver.

>tfw your 5606 movement's date quickset suddenly decides to work
If only I'd discovered that before advancing the watch ~36h manually

got a message on that ebay alpinist deal of a compromised seller account. logged into paypal and was able to manually cancel the transaction.

So is the watch thing a "i have no GF, a stagnant social life... so i'll blow thousands watches to make myself feel good" thing?

Lel. Some of the most successful and popular people on earth are obsessed or at least enamored with watches.
Including the hot, young, and eligible.

Three kinds of watch enthusiasts:
1. Rich business fags who get patek and stuff just because they can and they know a bit, but just a bit, about the watch itself.
2. Instagram/celebrity whores who get stuff like hublot or flashy rolex to get attention and appreciation, they know nothing about watches
3. Watchmakers / tinkerers / serious collectors, they know the most and quite often have the best collections, but prices vary greatly as people collect different kinds of stuff.