/wt/ - Watch Thread

This thread is about the appreciation of horology, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch, clock, or other timepiece.

>Required viewing for new people:
youtube.com/watch?v=rL0_vOw6eCc

>Used watch guide:
pastebin.com/4cP1Tpri

>Strap guide:
pastebin.com/SwRysprE

>Watch essentials 102:
pastebin.com/VBAu4Rwi

>Previous thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

sweep-hand.org/the-x8-cosmotron/
twitter.com/AnonBabble

...

Do you ever get confused when you're reading it via lume, that the second hand has the lume dot on the back end of the second hand?

Not my watch, I just saved it from a thread where some idiot bought two of them. To answer your question the reason for the lume on the back of the second hand is that for divers you are just looking at it to make sure the watch has not stopped not to read the time. I have lumed watches but never have needed to time seconds in the dark so i guess it would be a non issue for me.

An ancient pond
frog jumps in
splash!

I was definitely aware of that necessity, and the rule definitely still applies; certified diving watchs must have a moving second hand to confirm the watch has not stopped. But the lume on the 'wrong' side....it looks rather...odd, doesn't it?

I guess I'm used to the Rolex and Omega solutions to this...the orbiting orb...

Yeah I get what you are saying, not sure why exactly seiko does that, maybe they think the second hand looks silly in daylight with a fat lume pip far out on the hand?

what's the difference between red jewels and purple ones?

red goes faster

It wears tall, that's for sure. It's bulky, like wearing a metal block. It's a tool watch though, so you can definitely wear it even if you have dainty wrists.

The purple ones turn red with hard wear, that's how watchmakers know which ones to replace...

Serious question to you all. Have you ever 'missed out' on a watch? As in, you had the chance to purchase it, but for whatever reason you decided not to...and then it was either discontinued or you never saw it in another store again, and you have been searching for it ever since (or perhaps have found it, but at such an exorbitant price that it's not worth buying)?

>pic not related too directly..

Who here /GShock/?
Planning on getting the terrorwave watch soon.

I missed out on a particular model of cosmotron 7803a on eBay. I ended up finding it again, but it took a little over a year.

I passed on an Omega cosmic 613 from a local jeweler where I just wasn't confident in the seller. Ending up finding another example on eBay 11 months later (given the unusual dial). Was a good lesson in patience in collecting; there were dozens of cosmics in the meantime without the dial I wanted.

Reminder this is shitposting.

A dead mint seiko 62GS, but it was going for over 200k yen, and the seller cancelled my bids at the last possible second.

I recently missed out on an accutron 2210 in decent shape, but expect to see one again before all that long.

Wow...I've never seen that before...ever. How in the world did you come across it, in terms of knowing about it in order to want to buy it?

What was it about the seller that wasn't good for you? Delivery of the goods, description of the condition of the watch?

Oh dear....I hope you can find another mint one...though....given what little I've gleaned from these threads, it may be rather difficult...

Hmm...what appeals to you about this particular Accutron? I've only personally been interested in the ones with the transparent faces....but that's just me. Learn me!

Probably not to be honest. The thing still had the caseback sticker on it. There are usually a small number of them on yahoo auctions at any given time, but they're either scratched up or I suspect they might've been repolished.

The 7803a is an amazing part of the cosmotron series. Sweephand's blog is the definitive guide. In short, 36,000bph electric watch with transistorized balance wheel, originally adjustable to chronometer accuracy (and this one easily passed chronometer "with especially good results" criteria when I tested it two months ago), flyback second hand, flyback minute hand, gravity-operated day/date quickset.
sweep-hand.org/the-x8-cosmotron/

I have a number of 7803a pieces - they're dirt cheap off yahoo jp and typically fire up without an issue. The blue/white blended dial is one I saw and wanted, but there's so many varieties that finding the exact same one again was a bit of a search.

The seller was extremely pushy, is the short of it. The shop also didn't really have great reviews, especially in terms of accepting pieces back for warranty service. When I was told the watch was recently fully serviced, I went to set it, and when I pulled the crown the gasket came off into my hand. I knew that no matter what I could never buy a watch from that store, so found the discipline to wait and find the watch elsewhere.

The accutron is a caliber 2210, a ladies version that runs at 440Hz. It is a super miniaturized version of a tuning fork watch (though not the smallest, which is my 2302 which runs at 480Hz). The 2210 is notable as it rings at a perfect concert A natural pitch. It is the only accutron caliber that was never offered with a second hand. It is also the only tuning fork movement I believe I am missing - I have the accutron 214, 230, and 224, which is basically a quartz-regulated 218, the ESA 9162, and the Omega 1230 megasonic. The slava tuning fork is a ripoff of the accutron and the citizen hi-sonic is a licensed version of the accutron.

The 7803a - note the 5 full back-and-forths of the balance compared to the 1 tick per second quartz in the background, totaling 36,000 bph

Can somebody pls post the pic of the pasty irish guy with a watch about to give him gangrenes

Would there be a lot of NOS for Seiko? I mean, is is possible that there are shops in Japan that have one or two sitting in their back shelves, and it's just a matter of e-mailing them or something? Sorry, I'm guessing out of ignorance and in hopes that I can be helpful somehow...

Holy shit...thanks for the data. There's a part of me that has always been fascinated with the different forms of 'quartz' watches that took on in the early years, but it's rather difficult to know where to start if you're a noob to it like me. Does the battery replace the mainspring as a source of power in the 7803a, powering a mechanical movement?

The accutron search makes sense...I too like to have collections complete if possible.

The 62GS was the first automatic grand seiko back in the 60s. IIRC there were fewer than 10k made. They're relatively rare regardless. Let alone one that was unworn.

Also my caliber 5800 Cosmotron. 43,200bph. There is in fact a lot of interesting technology in ladies watches of the 70s and 80s, as manufacturers tried to make their movements smaller.

The cosmotrons were not quartz. There are quartz balance wheel watches (Luch 3055, Timex Model 62, supposedly a Citizen that I haven't been able to track down), but the cosmotrons, like the Hamilton Electric and Seiko Elnix, used a hairspring to keep time. But instead of powering the watch with a mainspring driving the geartrain, they use electromagnets to give impulse to the balance, which then advances the gear train (similar to how, in a tuning fork watch, all the power in the geartrain originates at the escapement, rather than at the opposite end). This, incidentally, leads to much less stress on the gear train components because they are not "under load", so to speak. Video is the Luch 3055, a quartz watch.

This is a couple of posts about interesting quartz timekeeping tech at affordable levels.

There's some stuff in here that isn't actually true it turns out. The seiko dolce is also a high-frequency quartz watch apparently (the Bulova UHF is not the only one); it has TC on top of a 192KHz crystal. The Dolce is also no longer the only TC watch below 1500 (though it was at the time) given the recent Longines VHP. Twin quartz prices have also gone up a bit since this, it seems.

The 2302 in question

Jesus...43,200bph. Would this not put tremendous problems of wear and tear on the movement? I mean, from what I understand, that is one of the severe limitations of higher beat movements...that they will simply wear out faster than say 36,000 or under, so it's not worth going higher....

That's brilliant...I hadn't even considered that. If the power is given directly to the balance (excuse my simplistic description here), then the only thing the movement has to do is move forward...it isn't struggling to release against the palettes. Does this mean that the geartrain could be designed differently as well, as in, perhaps a change of material or something because they don't have to be continuously under pressure?

Thanks! I have to look into this...what has always worried me about this kind of technology was (in truth) finding anyone who could service them back to functioning order. Replacing a battery is one thing...but what if the electronics or circuit board is fried? I'd assume it's done....but that's why I say I have to do a little more reading...

I suppose the geartrain could be less robust. I think in particular you'll see fewer jewels (my 36,000bph GPs have 39, for example). I suppose you could probably make some of the geartrain out of plastic but I don't think they did. Consider the similar issue with an accutron 214 - the beat rate is 2,592,000vph; there's no way that much energy could have been provided through the geartrain.

Picture from the technical manual used for marketing the accutron back in the 60s.

I haven't ever actually come across a quartz watch with a dead circuit (though I'm sure there's some luck there) - issues have always been mechanical (loose contact, worn gear, etc.). High quality early quartz movements also had trimmers to adjust the rate, so that HAQ pieces can be brought back into calibration even today, after decades of aging on the quartz crystal may have affected their rate.

What can I say man, Thank you. That's awesome stuff! But especially the slow motion captures of the movements...how you managed to film that, I'll never guess.

>brush against nylon jacket
>gets hairline scratches

hardlex is shittttt

>ywn be the father of disco and grandfather of house music wearing a marine chronometer in your prime

Hey bro is it an easy fix to get junk cosmotrons running? I see a lot of cheapies but they're all fucked

If they're broken because some charlatan fucked with it, chances are you'll be paying as much as buying a working one.

Though I bought a Hisonic as non-working and all it needed is a tap against the workbench to get it running again.

>Hardlex scratching from rubbing on clothes
Yeah, nah. Acrylic maybe but not Hardlex.

Any of you guys have gotten any crazy deals on eBay lately?

I don't understand how this happened, who else was bidding to cause the price to go so high?

People who thought they were bidding for the whole watch instead of just the dial, as the listing’s name mentions.

not enough fat arms

If the whole watch was the only pic for that listing, then it is misleading indeed.

Even if there was a pic of just the dial, but the main/first pic was that whole watch, that's also misleading.

If you're too stupid to read a description before bidding, it's on you.

This, it clearly states that it's just a dial

Posting only a pic of a whole watch when you're trying to sell a dial is misleading.

What have I done

Recently my grandfather passed away and I inherited his cartier watch that's worth at least $10k.

How do you guys cope with the paranoia of having so much money laying around, is it better to wear it all the time or get a safe and hide it somewhere?

Not when you clearly state that they're not bidding on the whole watch. If I was the buyer I'd accept the fact that I was neglectful with my purchase and move on. He made a mistake, not the seller.

The seller was being misleading.
If you're selling a dial, post a pic of the dial.

I think you bought a watch

The seller was demonstrating how the dial would look on a watch. That's what you're buying it for, after all.

The main pic (and only pic we know of) for the listing was the entire watch.
This is misleading, because you're not selling the entire watch.

The buyer fucked up. Bottom line is you should read the description before buying anything.

Don't post pics of shit you're not selling.

The last watch I bought had a picture of it on the seller's arm, I didn't get all pissy when my watch didn't come with a limb.

Insurance.

Also, watches are not investments.

Either sell that thing or wear it. If $10k is an enormous amount for you, like it is for most people, then just sell it and invest the money.

You don't sell heirlooms.

This kind of shit is why I would rather just throw stuff in the garbage than sell it on ebay

Bretty gud

>date window color doesn't match dial color

Don't be stupid.

Why not? You are.

If you post a pic of an entire watch, you better be selling the entire watch. Otherwise it's misleading.

Not when the fucking description says you're bidding specifically on the goddamned dial.

...

It's still misleading to post an entire watch as the main (and possibly only) pic.

Note how I'm saying "misleading", and not "lying".

You mean this one?
It's great

It's the only watch anyone should need.

So how's liver failure working out for you?

I don't know man, if I left my grandkid some watch he didn't really want and he could sell it and pay for a year of college tuition I would want him to sell it and pay for his education rather than keep my old watch laying around for no reason

>really want to own a Rolex because even normies recognize it
>think every Rolex watch is boring and uninspired as shit

AAAAAAAAAAAAAAAHHHHHHH

If that's why you want a Rolex please fuck off and don't come back to this thread ever again

2/10 made me reply

oh please 95% of Rolex owners get a Rolex for exactly that reason

While that's true, you should kys yourself if you're one of them.

This thread's for the other 5%

>I'm special because I know the word "horology"
you're no different and should still kys
t. 100% rolex owner who regrets his purchase

This
You regret your purchase because you're an uninformed pleb who makes purchases based on others opinions
Go to /fa/

>he thinks I think I'm special because I know a word

>When someone posts memes you have made

Why do you regret it

nah you're still 95% an uppity cunt by default

Where's the best place for good value NATOs?

I tried the $2 generic ones off ebay and they're a bit scratchy and short

Spewing insults isn't going to get you anywhere.

and here we see the problem with owning a rolex. that and rolex owners.
the community is cancer. the company is shit. the occasional "rolex. huh." from people. I wanted a watch, not baggage.

>the community is cancer. the company is shit. the occasional "rolex. huh." from people. I wanted a watch, not baggage.
You're taking this way too seriously and you could have figured that all out before you bought one. That'd be like me regretting a Seiko because of the "soyko male" shitposting in this thread. Lighten up, you have one of the best quality watches ever made and you're pouting

Finally arrived, I'm very pleased with it.

>mfw /wt/ gets to over 50% performance art shitposting/trolling in the middle of the week
Whelp, time to take a few days off

Lume shot

>Lighten up
don't tell me what to do, fuckface

I assume you're not because that post is implying the "pro" of owning a rolex is that everyone recognises it

I can understand not wanting to buy a rolex due to social or professional circumstances, eg. dealing with clients in a discreet manner.

For most people, however, buying 5k+ watch should not be taken so lightly, and every outcome and consequence considered prior to. The fact you didn't makes me think you made an impulsive purchase, it's no wonder you regret it

Nice lume

what's the point of watches if not impulsivity?

if you really think about it, buying a watch fancier than a casio is dumb unless it's part of your work costume, and in that case buy a fake because nobody is going to look anyway

My liver is fine, thanks for your concern. Those are called freckles not liver spots.

Not that guy but for me I enjoy carefully planning out and curating my collection. There are always impulse buys every now and then but most of the time I like the deliberate hunt. And that includes some Casio as well.

Agreed. I do sometimes accumulate watches, but mostly I try to collect them.

Just copped, thanks for the advice /wt/, I am going to just let it run for a few days and see if it really is more accurate than a Rolex.

I'll give you that, but I'm not going to spend a months salary on a watch unless I really fucking want one, and if I do it's going to me saving and planning for a while, not buying it on the fly only to find out I don't like it a week later.

I impulsively bought pic related because it was 15 euros and I saw the auction finishing in 5 minutes, so you got me there

Also this

jesus christ what a shitter
they were even so lazy that they applied the lume on the bezel like retards what the fuck how the fuck did they even do that use a sticker or something fuck me dead!

He's doing it again, and there's just one picture, but the description very clearly states it's just the dial he's selling. Fair play to him to be honest, I'd say he's being pretty clever since he's not openly conning anyone but there's always a chance that a couple of fools will bid without being careful.

My new Databank.