/pcbg/ - PC Building General

>Assemble a part list
pcpartpicker.com/
>Example gaming builds and _monitor_ suggestions; click on the blue title to see notes
pcpartpicker.com/user/pcbg/saved/
>Learn how to build a PC (You can find a lot more detailed videos on channels like Bitwit)
youtube.com/watch?v=69WFt6_dF8g
>How to install Win7 on Ryzen
pastebin.com/TUZvnmy1

If you want help:
>State the budget & CURRENCY for your build
>List your uses, e.g. Gaming, Video Editing, VM Work
>For monitors, include purpose (e.g., photoediting, gaming) and graphics card pairing (if applicable)

CPUs:
>NO i5 7500/7600K or i7 7700/K. THEY ARE DEFUNCT AND SUPERSEDED BY COFFEE LAKE
>NO R3 1200/1300X or R5 1400/1500X. THEY ARE DEFUNCT AND SUPERSEDED BY THE R3 2200G AND R5 2400G
>G4560 - non-gaming (light tasks) or bare minimum gaming builds with a dedicated graphics card
>R3 2200G - Budget builds (best with OC + fast RAM) or for gaming WITHOUT a graphics card
>R5 1600 / i5 8400 - Great gaming (especially the i5 8400) or multithreaded use CPUs (especially the R5 1600)
>R7 / Used Xeon / Threadripper / i7 - Heavy Multi-Tasking / VM Work / Mixed use

RAM:
>Current CPUs benefit from high speed RAM; 3000-3200 MHz is ideal
>Before buying RAM for Ryzen, check your Mobo's QVL or look for user reports

Graphics cards:
>Crypto-Currency miners have driven GPU prices up (particularly Radeon)
1080p
>MSRP of standard 1080p cards: 1050Ti, 140USD; 1060 3GB, $200; 1060 6GB, $230; RX 570 4GB, $170; RX 580 4GB, $200
>GTX 1070 if you're looking for very high (100+) framerates and you have a CPU and monitor to match
1440p
>GTX 1070/Ti and 1080 are standard choices; currently overpriced
>GTX 1080Ti if you're looking for very high (100+) framerates and you have a CPU and monitor to match
2160p (4K)
>GTX 1080Ti

General:
>PLAN YOUR BUILD AROUND YOUR MONITOR IF GAMING
>A 240GB or larger SSD is almost mandatory; consider m.2 form factor

Attached: 1464532563074.png (252x235, 31K)

Other urls found in this thread:

ebay.com/itm/GTX1050-750Ti-970-960-1-2-4GB-GDDR5-192Bit-HDMI-Graphics-Card-For-NVIDIA-GeForce/302661027296
pcpartpicker.com/list/C8bP6s
pcpartpicker.com/list/cgM3Ft
frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2798&page=5
pcpartpicker.com/list/JzQRGG
pcpartpicker.com/product/zgJkcf/gskill-memory-f43200c16d8gvk
pcpartpicker.com/product/XJYWGX/gskill-aegis-8gb-1-x-8gb-ddr4-3000-memory-f4-3000c16s-8gisb
pcpartpicker.com/list/87tWXP
pcpartpicker.com/list/Zf64Cb
youtube.com/watch?v=ZGrxhf_xZWI
youtube.com/watch?v=EPwsLOX7Y_k
pcpartpicker.com/list/p797hy
pcpartpicker.com/product/kyWfrH/geil-evo-forza-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-2666-memory-gfr416gb2666c16adc
pcpartpicker.com/list/
pcpartpicker.com/list/g7HRGG
twitter.com/SFWRedditGifs

>970 2GB $75
Ok what's the catch?
ebay.com/itm/GTX1050-750Ti-970-960-1-2-4GB-GDDR5-192Bit-HDMI-Graphics-Card-For-NVIDIA-GeForce/302661027296

Its secretly a 560

Yeah I read about that shit, fucking chinks.

>name one thing 6gb provides significantly better performance at
A lot of games hog vram. Never get a card with less than 6gb in the current year.

hey lads. so i've taken a serious interest in music production lately and my shitty 2011 macbook can't seem to keep up with me. I need an upgrade
i want to build a powerful, futureproof PC for the purpose of running Ableton efficiently and quietly.
I'm not exactly a tech wiz but I understand that the CPU and RAM are the most important components to consider, yes? I may also do some light gaming on it, but at the same time I'm trying to cut down on wasting my time like that so I don't care about having a good graphics card. I just don't want it to bottleneck the system.

Here's a build I've come up with:
pcpartpicker.com/list/C8bP6s

>is it the right CPU? does clock speed matter more than the number of cores for the purpose of audio production?
>do I have enough ram for now? I will eventually upgrade if it proves to be a weak link
>do "be quiet!" make good coolers? are they actually quiet? is there a better alternative in the same price range?
>do I really need a case fan?
>will the gpu bottleneck the system?
>is the system generally compatible with the monitor?

my budget is $1300 max
thanks

What's a good dual-monitor VESA mount?

This would apply at MSRP prices, today you get what you can get.

Is it a dumb idea to use two monitors of different sizes in a dual monitor setup?

So, I'm looking for an SATA SSD drive for my old PC. Should I simply throw money at the assholes at Samsung or are other brands like Crucial or Kingston decent enough?

Attached: evo860.jpg (800x600, 45K)

Would anyone happen to know the most cost/effective corsair AiO? my H90 is coming up on 3 years of use so im worrying the pump may give out soon. id like to just get another h90, but it has not been in stock on newegg in months.
Id get one of the newer models with 2 fans, but im kinda worried they wont fit in my case, Fractal Design Define S, even though its supossedly made for AiOs, i had trouble installing the radiator. wouldnt fit where it should have fit.
I wouldnt mind a noctua or similar air cooler that would perform the same either.
this is for a ryzen 5 1600x@4ghz/4.1ghz and stock voltage/near stock voltage respectively(lottery winner!)

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I have Win7 Pro on a PC that I never used the upgrade for. I just bought a new PC. Is there any way to use the genuine license on the new one? Most everyone just said install 7 and use DAZLoader or KPS every six months. It would be nice to leverage a legal copy though. Barring that, what's the best Linux distro for a bored NEET?

>today you get what you can get
Or you wait and stop being an inpatient child. Prices are going to drop once the new formats are released. Just wait, you can play generic shooty number 495 next year.

Water cooling is a meme, just get a noctua.

>B-But my temps!
Also a meme, no cooler today from any major brand (Read: No chink five dollar shit) is going to have any issues with temp. Stop falling for the meme.

just get a noctua or thermalright and some decent fans for it if needed

pcpartpicker.com/list/cgM3Ft

i got this h90 for $40! but yes i know air coolers are as good or better/cheaper most of the time. what noctua model would you guys suggest?

for

there is barely any statistical difference between a 212 Evo and any Noctua

truly? even the top end noctuas/air coolers? i still have my old 212 evo and even an AM4 bracket i ordered for it incase the pump died on this h90.
i coulda swore that the 212 evo didnt perform as well as the top air coolers; i remember looking up benchmarks when i was overclocking my old rig and used the 212 evo at the time. maybe im not remembering correctly though. got any links?

Wouldn't a DH15 have a huge difference over a 212 Evo?

Hey guys, have a small general question. What price range and models should I look for for a motherboard that'll be used to overclock? I've just got back into pc building and I'm not sure what's good anymore

frostytech.com/articleview.cfm?articleid=2798&page=5
[email protected] vs [email protected]

Flat out lie, noctua coolers beat 212 evo. There is a reason they sell so well even when they are cream and shitty brown.

they do, its just not worth 3x the price

You either go 212/212 clones or go straight to custom loop. Everything else is a price gouge.

ok so they are better but not cost effective? anything $100, give or take, is fine for me if its going to provide better performance.
are there any good noctua or other air coolers around that price range

Just look them up on pcpartpicker you lazy cunt.

We're talking a degree at best

Sport I've been sitting on a GT730 for a while, but 6GB cards TODAY are overpriced as fuck, not worth it. If you need something no matter what the best is to settle for a 2-4GB low-mid like a 1050/560, it's enough to play anything more than ok.
You are impatient child if you pay for a 6GB card today.

Wrere the f all mini-itx fm2+ boards?
Bought inwin901 and my mictoATX does not fits!
Fuck you, linustechtips!

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how am i lazy for asking for recommendations in a pc building thread, fool?

I haven't pulled the trigger on my build yet because I'm afraid I won't be able to assemble the parts when they arrive, anyone got some resources or tips for actually putting the thing together?

Attached: 1517841007548.png (543x443, 26K)

Literally in the OP. Or just look up build guides on youtube, there are hundreds of them. Likely a ton for whatever case you're using too.

Failing that, use the fucking manuals. Its lego tier shit if you follow the instructions.

>anyone got some resources or tips for actually putting the thing together?
youtube, stuff in the OP, the manuals that come with the stuff you buy. its not hard, its a bit tedious at times but as long as you can read and follow instructions then youre good to go. its like legos with screwdrivers.
you may run into trouble mounting the cpu cooler, depending on what you have. thats probably the "hardest"(most tedious) part of building

Phanteks PH TC14PE is pretty good and might save ya a few bucks

Even a child could put one of these together with a few hours and a motherboard manual

Attached: 14344245_1270379369660863_7560467306382950349_n.jpg (410x350, 18K)

thanks user, ill check it out.

FM2+ was always dead tech

Not looking to do serious gaming until I get stable income. Here is what I was thinking...
pcpartpicker.com/list/JzQRGG

If you already have the Pro4 see if you can return it because it has some freezing issues, get a 620 EVO or a Focus Plus Gold, a SU800 and one of these
pcpartpicker.com/product/zgJkcf/gskill-memory-f43200c16d8gvk
pcpartpicker.com/product/XJYWGX/gskill-aegis-8gb-1-x-8gb-ddr4-3000-memory-f4-3000c16s-8gisb

I see this as a more solid build.
Add in a 2TB+ HDD and upgrade your video card later
pcpartpicker.com/list/87tWXP

NH-D15 would be optimal, NH-U9S if you want a cheaper one

thanks, ill add these to my list. do the model names of noctua coolers have any meaning? DH14, DH15, U9S etc?
also that U9S has a really fucking big heatsink, god damn.

Tfw you brought a i7 7700k

Attached: 116862a.png (300x240, 18K)

Only the D15 and U12S have AM4 compatibility if you buy the AM4 versions, for everything else you have to get it in the mail

D15 is the successor to the D14
D15S is a slighly modified D15 with only 1 fan
U12S and U14S have only 1 tower
U9S has a small fan and large heatsink; U12S is better unless you have compatibility issues with your board or memory
L12S is very low-profile and has a thin fan

Okay so I've taken in consideration yours and suggestions.
So I guess something like this would be okay?
pcpartpicker.com/list/Zf64Cb

>be me
>have r9 290
>randomly softlocks itself into the lowest power state
>60fps video but at 10fps
>open radeon settings
>maximise it
>close it
>60fps video now displays 60fps
>GPUs are too fucking expensive for me to replace it
thanks crypto

1050ti for 228$ is it worth it?

It's best to keep the Pro4, I doubt you will experience issues.
No, not really.

man my 750 is dying, and i can't wait for a year for prices to go lower.

Does it softlock if radeon setting is already open?
You could make it automatically run at startup.

yeah, it's always sitting there in the tray, just minimised
messing with wattman and trying to force power states or new overclock profiles does nothing, neither does launching a game, the fix is literally to just open and maximise the radeon settings window
nothing else i do barring a full restart will fix it

Should I trust in soundproof cases (side/front/top)?*
Comes with 3x 140mm fans and that's all.
I'm running 1700 stock and GTX960, so I don't concern much about temps. Sometimes I encode, sometimes I game, most of time I just browse / watch / idle like a neet.

My other option** doesn't have a sound damping but comes with 4x 120mm fans, being 3x intake.
Same price, since fans are kinda expensive for their "simple" use I don't intend to buy another set.

Currently I'm using Tempest EVO with 3 broken fans, so one front intake (another one @600 RPM cuz so noisy) and side intake (no filter) and two out (rear/top) all 120mm. Front jack is dead for years, usb ports are dead too. But, would you guys consider the option get a whole new set of fans instead of a new case? Four new CM fans would cost half than buying a new cheap case.

Most I just want to know if the soundproof works, since I got a little bit tired of all the noise. My budget is like $70 or less. Noctua is not an option. Cheap Corsair's are SPEC-01~4 / Alpha, except with less fans. I need at least three 3.5in bays.

* AI7000
** TG5

Attached: AI7000.jpg (960x670, 224K)

I currently have a 1TB HDD and a 256 GB SSD. I just got the SSD and was wondering what the most painless way I could just transfer windows and a few games/programs to the SSD.

The main option I see people doing is cloning their drive, but I have 700GB used on my 1TB HDD and I can't partially clone, so I can't really do this without losing my files.

Another option is to reinstall windows on the SSD, but I'm not sure how that would work since now both drives would have Windows 10 on them.

Last option is to just install windows on the SSD, boot up from there, and format the C drive so I just have pure windows and an empty hard drive.

How did you guys do this? Are there any options I'm missing?

How do I manage my cables? It's a fucking mess down there.

Non-modular PSU?
Use a lot of zip-ties.

>p-prices will drop any day now! New cards are just around the corner! M-muh Nvidia rumours!
t. anons for the last 9 months
>meanwhile, cards continue to increase in price every week
Waitfagging was a mistake then and it’s a mistake now.

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More like stock will continue to decrease
Soon there will be no cards to buy

What’s the best 350/370 matx board for a Ryzen 2400g for light overclocking and long term life?

Watch a VRM breakdown
Here is a good one:
youtube.com/watch?v=ZGrxhf_xZWI

Hello, I am a poorfag that needs some advice on designing a PC upgrade for my current computer that's dying (PSU issues). I need to build from scratch as you'll soon see. This is my current component list that actually matters (idk the mobo, it's some shitty offbrand mobo)

>i5-2400 3.1 GHz CPU
>8GB (2x4) 1333 ram, DDR1 I think.
>1TB 5200 RPM HDD (primary drive)
>Nvidia GTS 450
>case with PSU built in, don't know the Watts, it's dying anyways.

What's your budget? The 2400 isn't unusable, Sandy Bridge still holds up well today.

rando brands are just fine.
>inwin
why would do you that?

Crucial has some good models, WD is also good.
Samsung is popular for a reason though

I guess you should be looking at a 2200G or 2400G build from scratch, except maybe your drive(s). What is the most that you're able to spend on this?

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I currently get cucked by my CPU when I try and record webm's and shit. My budget is flexable as I'm willing to just save up a little longer if it means the difference between having a "barely functional" rig and having an actually powerful rig. Components don't actually seem to cost that much between bottom of the line stuff and top of the line consumer stuff. The difference between an $1000 computer and a $2000 dollar computer seems massive based on the research I've done and in all reality that's really not that much money to spend, even being a poorfag if I manage money tightly for a month or so.

Lets just say the budget is $2500. I value hard drive space as well and I'm currently locked to 1080p monitors.

sorry I deleted the old post because I realized I only answered one question.

anyone know the max safe temp for AMD Radeon RX 4xx/5xx polaris card VRMs are? i read 125c from a few reddot comments and other forum posts, but i cant find anything official from AMD.
one game in particular is heating up my VRMs much more than others. usually theyre at 55c-60c during high load/gaming, but titanfall 2 makes them heat up to 65c-70c

With $2000 or more you could definitely get a very high end system if video cards were in stock, but the only card worth buying now is the GTX 1050.
What do you mean that you're currently locked to 1080p?
VRMs are usually rated for xxxxx hours at 125°C simce they aren't as sensitive as microprocessors or memory

yeah it is indeed 125c; and i guess it varies by the model. AIBs can use whatever VRM they want but the sapphire model i have is 125c as well. an overclocked breaks it down if anyone is curious:
youtube.com/watch?v=EPwsLOX7Y_k

My pc sometimes will start, stop after a few seconds, and then start again. Nothing is more than a few months old besides the case. Is something dying?

Post speccy
Also post PSU model

CPU: AMD - Ryzen 5 1600 3.2GHz
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master - Hyper TX3 54.8 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler
Motherboard: ASRock - AB350M Pro4 Micro ATX AM4 Motherboard
Memory: G.Skill - Trident Z RGB 16GB (2 x 8GB) DDR4-3200 Memory
Storage: Kingston - SSDNow V300 Series 120GB 2.5" Solid State Drive
Storage: Seagate - Barracuda 1TB 3.5" 7200RPM Internal Hard Drive
Video Card: Asus - GeForce GTX 1080 Ti 11GB POSEIDON Video Card
Case: Corsair - SPEC-03 White ATX Mid Tower Case
Power Supply: Corsair - RMx 650W 80+ Gold Certified Fully-Modular ATX Power Supply
Optical Drive: Samsung - SH-224DB/BEBE DVD/CD Writer

Also just realized storage and disc drive are also carried over from my last pc

Does this build look ok? i already have an ssd and 2 1tb harddrives. What gpu should i get? i plan on using it for gaming and my budget is of around 650€ total

I have two 1080p monitors and I don't feel like throwing them aside just to spend more money of a graphics card and expensive monitor. I currently use the windows 10 virtual desktop feature a lot and honestly can't see myself using 3 monitors. If those are points where I could save money on the budget (I was actually looking at the 1050 and it seemed good because I tend to turn off graphics settings that I don't care about in order to get higher FPS anyways, such as texture detail for some games or lighting effects, it really depends on the game I guess.) I don't have anything nice except a mouse and headphones.
>logitech-g600
>audio technica ath-m50x

I still would like to get these things as well. They don't directly correlate with the computer build.
>a not shit desk (I'm going to try goodwill and other places before I go to buying some build your own shitkit)
>monitor arm mounts (I have 2 1080p 60hz 23" monitors, BENQ and acer)
>good speakers, I consulted a general at some point and got a recommendation based on my musical tastes and they were like $300

I also don't have a computer repair/maintenance kit and I wouldn't feel comfortable trying to build one without an anti static matt or a grounding cable/band. I also don't have a magnetic screwdriver or thermal paste.

frogot pic, sorry.

Attached: Sin título.png (1115x816, 173K)

are Palit GeForce GTX 1060 Dual 6GB GDDR5
or
EVGA GeForce GTX 1060 6GB GDDR5 good choices? i can get them for around 350€

My budget is $1000 on the dot, and I need a strongish build for audio/ video work and gaming as a side benefit. How will this do?
I have monitors/keyboard already

pcpartpicker.com/list/p797hy

buy a 350 mobo at least

Is it really that important? I'm more worried at the moment of finding a decent gpu

Get an 8700 or 8400 instead
Also get an SSD
This memory should be slightly better for cheaper
pcpartpicker.com/product/kyWfrH/geil-evo-forza-16gb-2-x-8gb-ddr4-2666-memory-gfr416gb2666c16adc

well you need at least a b350 to overclock, if you dont care fine but they are only like 15€ more so imo it's worth it

MSI B350M Bazooka
looks better?

Get a 2200G or 1200 and 1050 if you can't

pcpartpicker.com/list/

pcpartpicker.com/list/g7HRGG fucking hell im retarded this morning

the bazooka should be fine on a budget with that processor. I have a b350 mortar that works fine but I see lots of people hating on MSI online, I'm not sure if thery are overreacting or not.
Look if you can squeeze in some better ram, it should be barely more expensive if you find a good deal

sadly im already over my budget and im about to close the deal. Does it look ok or am i getting some dumb shit that won't work?

also the look at the ASRock AB350M Pro4 should be good too, maybe better.
Should be around that price, maybe a little less, depends on your local stores

yeah, its a tiny bit cheaper

compatibility should be ok, I cant give you an opinion on the case and psu quality (wattage is ok).
The only thing I'm not sure is the single fan gpu, but with those gpu prices and availability you might not have much choice I guess

you might choose a lower wattage psu to save some € now that I think about it (I have a ryzen 1600 and a 1060 on a 550w psu), just don't skimp on quality

there is Palit GeForce GTX 1060 Dual 6GB GDDR5 for about the same price

>Palit GeForce GTX 1060 Dual 6GB
palit should be an ok gpu vendor, if you are in europe (seems like you are) you should be good for warranty.
Look for some review for this card to be safe

overall people say its ok.

then I would say go for it

JUST for how long do we gamers have to withstand all the ass-ramming from these damn miners?

Attached: 1458275444652.jpg (700x700, 68K)

until oems, amd and nvidia decide to up their production, ie never, because they care about selling gpus, and miners money is as good as gamers

done, let's pray for the best

We really should have info about this in the OP so these faggots stop coming to ask every five minutes.

GPU prices aren't going to be fixed til the next release of cards in 2019.

>buy GTX 960 on feebay
>receive 9600 GT

Attached: 1515995567884.png (700x700, 760K)