(Semi) professional photographer here. Wanna know how to take better photos? AMA. Pic related, my gear

(Semi) professional photographer here. Wanna know how to take better photos? AMA. Pic related, my gear.

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youtube.com/watch?v=Q3chqHe14eY
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Do you use Active D-Lighting?

Do you take dick pics?

Okay, so I've been trying to perfect my landscape photos and especially during night I have some trouble calculating the correct exposure, because light meters don't work well. How would you start calculating the exposure in a pitch black forest for example?

No. Never got good enough results. If your gonna use it without postprocessing, increase in camera contrast

Where do you purchase your gear and why?

Experience, trial/error. Also if you have trees in the foreground you can try painting with light. If sky only, f8 30 secs should do, given no light pollution.

Not OP, but:

Rule of 500 (copied from a site i googled)

500 Divided By the Focal Length of Your Lens = The Longest Exposure (in Seconds) Before Stars Start to “Trail”

Buy cannon.

For cameras/lenses i follow sales and buy from stores, to have a piece of mind with warranty. If I'm buying remote control/grip/flash then online/ebay

I have a cheap-o Nikon D3200 with 35mm 1.8 prime & a 18-55mm lenses

How do I get better at night photography?

I know I definitely need a tripod for landscape sort of shit but still some things turn out an off colour.

Should I be using the exposure settings a bit more to compensate?

Thetes nothing you can do with canon that you can't with nikon, just preference. Always been a nikon user.

How long is your dick?

Expisure wont compensate for the colour balance. You can use custom white balance or use camera default but change the temperature a bit -/+. Post processing in RAW will work wonders for balance thou

Ask your mom

Okay, so it's mainly more about shutter speed/exposure TIME, right?

how do you get better at judging what settings to use? is it just a matter of doing it and taking loads of pictures and fiddling around a lot?

That's an expensive looking camera. You must take really pretty picture.

Nikon can't physically fit an 85mm 1.2, the mount can't do it,
I miss mine so much, but I had to part with it.

Both have their odd lenses anyways, MPE etc..

Its only white balance that will change the colour, not exposure. You need to take tons and tons of photos, after a while it becomes 2nd nature, when you see a scene you adjust the setting and get right. Start with P, take a lot of photos, then move to S and then manual

Yeah, there's always an alternative. Did you get rid of nikon to get a canon? For the 85 mm?

So no systematic way of doing it besides trial and error?

Two more questions:
-Have you found a way to get rid of the red tint in long exposure night photos before post-processing? I suspect it might be caused by IR light, so could an extra filter solve the problem? I don't think it's artificial light or amp glow, because the tint is only visible in low ISO photos with long exposure.
-Have you any personal experience with 100mm polarizing filters? I have a Cokin Z-Pro holder and my father has the Lee system, so I'm mainly looking for Cokin, Lee or Singh-Ray. Doesn't matter if it's linear of circular.

I'm familiar with that but (fortunately) stars can't be seen here often.

She just giggled and said she likes it more when I fuck her.

just out of interest how much do you measure say lighting whitebalance etc vs "eyeballing it"

>no systematic way
Not really, too many variables. Time of night/light pllution/clouds etc. Sometimes you'll get a 30 sec exposure photo and after 30 seconds you have to change settings again cos the conditions change in 30 secs.
For polarizer it's always good to use screw in circular filters, moya is good. Use the holders for ND filters.

>nikon

you faggot

I've used Nikon gear when shooting with other people, but all of the gear that I actually own is canon, had to ditch the 85 because of some financial stuff that happened.

That doesn't sound very convincing.
And you do realize that screw-in filters and holders don't mix well?

It gets getting used to but I always use screw on for polariser and a holder at the same time for ND filters. Screw in polariser gives more control over polarizer and holder guves more control with ND filters. Coloured filters as well, ie 6ND filter together with half blue filter.

Pentax is the way to go, faggots!

Leica and hasselblad film shooter here

Enjoy your digital gas

Eh, you can rotate the drop-in polarizer much better than the screw-in one and it should also reduce vignetting.

Post your camera with a timestamp.

>Post your camera with a timestamp.
this faggot right here

I'll bite. Why aren't my images sharp throughout, I'm taking shots of my dog and all his face will be sharp and his nose blurred, or some shit like that. Also I can't focus on the little fucker whilst he's sprinting for shit. I have the attached lens/ kit lens and 35mm prime lens

poorfags

>you can rotate the drop-in polarizer
Not when you have a half ND and half colour filter at the same time, they will all rotate together

>Why aren't my images sharp
because you are using inferior nikon camera faggot

>his face will be sharp and his nose blurre
Instead of using say f1.8 use f8 to get more in focus. For moving action use a high shutter with C auto focus

>his face will be sharp and his nose blurred
Learn how to use AP mode for DOF.
ISO/4.5 lens is too slow for action

My prime is 1.8 35mm will that be better for action?

Maximum kek.

I'm a total noob what AP setting would you use for this? is higher number more or less DOF

ITT /p/ trolling Sup Forums

High number = more DOF but that will also mean less light coming in so you'll need to use slower shutter/higher iso

I've never even changed the ISO.. what would you reccommend for daily use, indoor photography of dogs/people -

It'll be faster, but learn how to manually set the ISO, this will allow you to use the zoom, although you will still be limited by the motor in the lens, it's a better option.

>people buying cameras because hey i'm and epic photographer :D
>can't even the basics of aperture, shutterspeed and iso

Kill
You are selfses

Search this online you really need a basic course.

The prime has no zoom nor motor in it.

So you have never even seen those holders. The Cokin holder has a special slot at the back just for the polarizer and the Lee has it at the front. The polarizers aren't rectangular like the ND filters but circular, just like the screw-in filters.

The first issue is either caused by too shallow depth of field or you have taken the photo too close i.e. exceeded the minimum focusing distance of the lens. Try setting the aperture smaller or taking the photo further away. For moving subjects, set your focusing mode to AF-C (continuous autofocus) or try pre-emptive focusing.

>ISO/4.5
>too slow for action
No and no. First of all, ISO and aperture are not related and the slow maximum aperture can be overcome by either incresing exposure time, ISO or light.

This so much.

Use S or A mode and auto iso

Which model, s or d?

Semi pro here too!

I do clubs, events, parties, that type of thing. Here's a shot I took not long ago in a nightclub, kinda liked it. I use a Sigma 18-35mm F1.8w lens

In S or A mode the ISO seems to be stuck on 100.

jessops.com/online.store/products/76070/Show.html?utm_source=google&utm_medium=cpc&utm_campaign=PLA&utm_term=AF-S 35mm f1.8 G DX Lens&gclid=CjwKEAjwpfC5BRCT1sKW2qzwqE0SJABkKFKRlro6kY4Co36lMXmlEWpyrnNYZHe6MPrfavr_CkESFhoC1tPw_wcB

What is the size of your penis?

>you have never even seen those holders.
Actually I haven't. I got used to having the polariser as screw on and ND on the filter so didnt look for an alternative. Sounds good thou, I'll look into it. Thanks user.

It has a motor in the lens all "S" models do.

Blurry and washed out. Go back there and take it again but this time do it right!

>SO and aperture are not related and the
He asked two different questions.
>slow maximum aperture can be overcome by either incresing exposure time
Wrong, he wants faster speed, increasing exposure = more blur.

>S or A mode the ISO seems to be stuck on 100
Cant be right. Check the manual

Average length, above average girth.

I watch too much porn to truly be satisfied with my own size, but I've also never had any complaints.

That's not OP. I'm OP, its bigger than my 70-300 mm

OK i found that I can change it with the Fn button - seems to have worked, upped it to 1000, much clearer shot.

>increasing exposure = more blur.
this. Other faggots full of it

It's not blurry at all, it's just a shallow depth of field because I shot at 1.8 aperture.. And its not washed out either, where are you even getting that from? I reduced the warm and skins tones in post to get a blue monochrome type look.

Here's one I did for restaurant food promotion

Your welcome faggot. Now change it to auto iso so you dont use 1000 iso when 200 is enough. Let the camera manage it

Is that chef's dick lower left corner?

Your camera has almost a 12inch dick. I'm impressed.

I have a full-frame D750 with the "Holy Trinity" zoom collection. My problem is lighting - I feel like I just can't get shots taken with my SB-700 to look right. Any resources that might help?

It is indeed, it's on their secret menu

How much do you sell them for user?

>to look right
as in?

For that day, I went in for 1.5 hours, took 40 ish photos are got £60.. It was local so suited me well.. Not thought about selling anything individually before. I'm at uni so it's just quick cash in hand for me which is nice

Holy fuck it's been turned off this whole time. Stupid fucking camera (or stupid fucking me)

It just looks shitty and uneven like I'm shining a flashlight on it, even when I use my umbrella. I dunno.

I've plateaued until I can figure out how to fix this.

I'd personally just use manual and do it yourself. It's better trusting you to get the shots you want than the camera. If you want a picture to be very dark with one small part light, the camera wont know that, it'll bump up the ISO and it'll look like shit.. You know what you want, not the camera.

You. IIts not supposed to be on by default. It sounds like you better leave that on and read the manual front to back.

You're right that it should be off but this user will leave it off, forget to change it shot to shot, get frustrated that all shots come out too dark only to notice after 50 shots that he left it 100

Holy shit user, charge more. I do four hour shoots for realtors and charge $500 per gig.

Learn how to use a white balance card.
bhphotovideo.com/c/product/909206-REG/vello_wb_cm_white_balance_card_set.html

How do you get the gigs?

Post a sample with what settings you used

Yup. The auto settings are just trying to keep your shots consistent. If you are experimenting with light to get the desired result, use manual settings.

Yeah it's just they're my weekly work, I do Saturday nights there so I get £60 a night haha. It's not bad considering a lot of nightclub photographers in larger cities get literally fuck all since there is such little demand for photographers. I charge more for outside jobs

Thanks, but I don't think that's my problem. It's like my light is too "directional" if that makes sense, even in an umbrella.

Do you ever use automatic settings??

youtube.com/watch?v=Q3chqHe14eY

Dislike this video and leave a comment about hitler. One of their names is Adam.

Best that happened to then learn and change them constantly, really good way to get to know the settings and improve

I go to open houses and tell the realtors their photos suck. Most take them with point-and-shoot or cell phones.

I only shoot properties that are higher-end at this point. Some poor dipshit selling a townhouse doesn't want $500 worth of photography for his 1400 sqft shithole.

Your exposure is off number one, the white/gray cards fix that.

You know you can change the light angle yeah? On 900 you can anyway, not sure about 700. I mean it will flash narraw angle l9ng distance or wide angle light short distance

How do you keep focus whilst doing run and gun, say for a wedding or birthday?

I'm constantly refocusing and missing shots.

Have you considered branching out to other industries to make additional money? Sixty pounds is shit-tier dough for a creative, user.

Continuous focus mode, do you niggers even read the manual?

Another user here. I'm interested in this as well. What kind of shots so you do? I need to make more money this summer.

Yeah, I've played with it, but in an umbrella that sort of becomes less of an issue.

I think I need to take a lighting workshop or something. Just talking about it doesn't seem to be helping.

What advice would you give to a total photography noob that needs to take clear photos of individuals wearing outfits for their online clothing webshop? Should I stay away from using a DSLR for now? I'll admit all the features and control over settings are somewhat intimidating and I'd like to minimize the learning curve as much as possible.

How many photos do you deliver for $500? You agree on quantity? I'll give you 10 photos for $500 kinda deal?

Yeah I've started to.. What do you recommend I try and branch to / charge? I was thinking about sports next.. I'm not confident enough for weddings haha.

Post a sample of your work your not happy with

If you used / to replace "or", that makes more sense and I should have put "and/or" at the end of my sentence.

Most of it is just shooting rooms on a tripod. They have an interior designer come in and fix it up nice and then I shoot it. I primarily use a 14-24 f/2.8 for these shots. I bracket most shots so the windows aren't blown out and the inside doesn't look like a dreary dungeon.

There will then be detail work if they have custom cabinetry or kitchen bullshit. I use a 28-70 f/2.8 for this.

Five shots of the outside, again with 14-24.