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First time welding with a stick welder.
Does Sup Forums approve? Only other welding experience is with MIG on flux core filling screw holes in sheet metal.

Jesus...the porosity and spatter...terrible

That was 1/8th bar using 3/32nds @ 70amps on a Campbell Hausfeld tiny stick welder.
Literally no idea if I was using even remotely the right sized stick, it's just what I had.

I see holes. Grind it with an angle grinder or something so you can see if the weld actually took in those spots.

Just my first practice weld, not structurally important for anything. But I'll do that tomorrow and see how well it took. I couldn't break it by hand so I was moderately happy. I can't manage the puddle and heat with a stick like I can with a mig, I'm guessing it's all about correct settings and correct size rods.

takes time, and arc welding seldom looks as good as mig or tig...practice, you'll get it ...this is my welding/ fab ( a set of lower air bag control arms for 1963 Cadillac using 1 3/4 DOM and Uni-ball instead of ball joint) i myself still learning new techniques....

Ah. Well, other guy seems to have more experience than me and he seemed upset. Could be the coloration in the metal. If you get it too hot while welding, you can actually destroy the crystalline structure giving the metal its strength. Be careful of that, and shit

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God damn nigga.
Be my senpai.
I'd like to try tig, it honestly seems easier than mig, just harder to begin learning the settings.

honestly not that bad for a first time. My first welds looked significantly worse.

settings are low

that is my mig welding... , i dont have any pics of my tig (because rarely use it) ...but as projects get bigger and more expensive im sure ill be using it more! I build custom cars, boats,bikle etc, so i get to weld often,try to stay up it it. There more you do it the better you get just like with anything else>>>here is another small sample...if you are interested in seeing some of my "proects / builds i can give you my FB link

Fugg, that's maxed on the little guy.

Looks like shit. What the fuck did you try and use? a 6010?

You're stacking dimes that well with mig?
Are you a full time professional welder for the past 20 years?
Link to projects.

i have seen much worse for 1st time...just keep practicing, you'll get it figured out, also try using a 7018 (fast freeze rod) looks like you are using 6011...

not bad for first time. pretty horrible if youve ever done it before

send a friend request to my FB >>>
facebook link
/jay.blough.9/photos_albums?lst=567886401%3A567886401%3A1509930245

6/10

That's seriously not bad for your first time w/ a stick.

I still have my first project. A soldering iron holder using a valve spring and 3 pieces of sheet. It's the craziest thing really. I've used the SHIT out of that thing LOL, and it lives! Meanwhile, things that I've welded that really mattered have failed :/

>Being a low-hydrogen rod, 7018 requires an environment in which no moisture is allowed to get into the flux.
Sounds like a nightmare

7018 is a standard rod just use it

here is more of my work, not welding but my fiberglass and audio work>>>>

You got it chief. Everything I've got right now is 6013.

Look at that welding! OMG thats is awesome

i like it because it cools faster and tends to keep the "puddles" tighter, not to mention its much higher strength then 6011..

Yo, dont know if im late, make sure your rods havent been sitting out for a while, they absorb hydrogen from the atmosphere and transfer it into your weld. your settings are fine for that, Id recommend 6013 rod, its the easiest to start with 7018 is stronger but not as easy to control

Im a full time welder doing mostly mig & tig stainless. good on you learning diffrent processes. too many people get decent at mig and start telling everyone how to weld.

here is a set of custom side steps/ nerf bars i fabricated ( fresh from power coating) If anyone is interested in more of my "projects" let me know im more than happy too share>>>>>

my mig is easy to learn hard to master 1g is easy doing an uphill fill and cap is where you show your skill

looks mint

Tig is defintely they way to go, wish i was able to do more of it

yeah exactly, people these days learn how to make a flat fillet look good and act like they have a metallurgy degree

If you're getting spatter like that with arc boyo I'd hold the arc closer to the piece, or lower your amperage

I started with an Everlast 160STH $500 and a small tank of argon ($200) and that was more than enough to not only practice, but do %90 of the work I get

I wouldn't say that's a good weld by any means, but for that being your first time, it's not bad. Just work on the height you have the rod from the metal and control your speed. Also looks like you have the heat a little high for the thickness.

thanks, i appreciate that...to be clear im NOT a welder by trade, although i do weld as part of my skill set for what my job requires, this is more what i do daily>>

forgot pic>>>>

here i am thinking im the only person that welds on Sup Forums

that's not a continuous bead though, it's like a bunch of tacks. beads of mig are much closer together

You need to do it in one fluid motion, holding your hand still moving along the object from the same angle. That's how you make that nice ripple effect.

2/10

Are you sure you wouldn't make more as a welder than as a custom auto interior guy?

yes "stitch" welds give mig welding "look" of tig welding...i can post some "standard" welds as well, but this is the look customers like to expect to see. When i do more "production" welding i use "cursive" technique ...again im NOT a welder by trade

Im not that guy, but Ive lived in a city where the best pay for an entry welder was $16/hr, where I moved to entry pay is $24ish and with experience can go up to $40, all depends on where you live and how much you want to commit to the career

Not to criticize, but why dont you run a regular pass instead of just tacking it over and over
Thats not stacking dimes, thats a bunch of tacks. Stacking dimes the overlap is much closer. But he does TIG way vetter than me, but I've only done it a handful of times.

im NOT a welder, i build custom cars,boats,etc.. I do interior,fiberglass,welding,wiring, pretty much everything...im actually paid very well.....

Well in all actuality, you did join the pieces of metal together. The bead is humped up saying you were too fast to have the filler metal and the plates join. You can always grind away excess weld off. you want the the metal to all mingle together in the long run.

Mimicing a Tig looking weld by tacking over and over makes it pretty but is pretty weak, should only be used for decorative pieces that wont get much stress, if you need strength and prettyness use a move and pause technique without stopping the weld.

i answered that in above reply...when working on car,trucks,sandrails a lot of that is dome with tig, so to "match" that look using a mig i do "stitch technique...more often then not its hard to tell that is isnt done by tig(once again i dont claim to be a welder, although i feel i do decent welding)

i prefer "cursive" technique, but as for strength, i have plenty of heat and penetraion...and have NEVER had issues on my lower components,lift components, of steering components...my shop puts out thousand of cars a year, id never do anything "sub standard" to my customers cars...

Jumping in. MIG Welding for around 6 weeks, Thoughts? 3mm galvanized btw

OP, I'd probably go up 2 or 3 amps and slow down drag speed slightly. Make sure your metal is clean. Hit it with a grinding disc or buffing wheel first. Also, keep the arc length consistent if you can. If you it burning dirty, move the rod closer. Porososity can be caused by long arcing, so try not to do that.

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wear a respirator if its fully galvanized, if you havent already, one of the worst things to breathe

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here is a closer look>>>

That is a mig weld. any monkey and run a point and squirt.

Consistancy looks very good but a fillet weld should be flat, not have a peak

nice pass...

Yeah I'm just curious if it's any good as it's only home work with no training or advice other than yt

i see slag, so im thing its NOT mig weld...my opion

How would I remedy this, a faster pass? I also have no idea about power etc. working purely off the sound it makes but learning slowly

the coppery stuff, is a silica type material that is caused by impurities within the metal, when it is welded the impurities move up and cool as a glass on top of the weld, normal for mig

This is seemingly the best advise given to me in this thread.
This thread is really making me want to git gud.

low power or you are holding the stick to far away, thats why pores

1109's are a good rod to use.

I work maintenance at a foundry and called a guy on the radio to bring 6011's but all we had were 1109's and roughly 8 other rods

I may have missed grinding all of the galvanizing off, was my first time with this material and was clueless as to why there was so much perforation before I looked it up

material looks around 3/16 thick, id try around 18 Volts and 190 wire speed, it could be caused by going too fast, welding at too steep of an angle or welding too cold, try those

hard to tell from pic...and there are several techniques, are you "working the puddle" or just draging it? what is it the looks like slag at end of pass?

that shit is so dirty

hard for me to ell from pic, i have never seen that before, i use fresh new material primarly

I have seen a lot worse people first time stick welding. Looks alright just keep praticing.

about galvanized steel welding, galvanization is a zinc coating which when welded vapourizes into whispy white debris that floats in the air, breathing this shit will ruin your day and prolonged exposure will put you in the hospital

I'm trying to work the puddle as best I can to my limited knowledge and experience. Here's another weld

Git gud

hmm really, thought it was a decent job for a 1990 Bronco...lol

>average stringer beads
>git gud

Again, looks like your gas coverage and consistancy are pretty good, try lowering your wire feed speed first. and your angles should be pointing directly into the corner and about15 degrees back from travel direction

dirty as in the shit is nice

Also, make sure that you are comfortable. 80% of welding is being comfortable, especially in the beginning. Make dry passes before you strike, adjusting in your mind to compensate for electrode loss. Can you make this pass in one rod? Or will you need two? Never try to speed up your travel speed because you know you are about to run out of rod. That will fuck your weld up. Most of this is muscle memory, so get comfortable and practice.

How do you guys feel about AI and robotic equipment replacing you?

Arc too cold/fast.

Agree %100, also dont be a jackass that thinks gloves and proper PPE are for losers, not worrying about burning yourself makes you a better welder

Will do cheers mate. As someone who seems to know a shit tonne more than me how long do you think it would take to become proficient at MIG welding or good enough to take it up as a career? Very general question I know

That’s 4g kys

Every robotic welder will need 1 or more people to maintain it and set it up, robots are good for repetition but so far only humans can instantly adapt to new tasks. New technology is always welcome

GRINDERS AND PAINT MAKE YOU THE WELDER YOU AINT! That doesn't look that bad really, with welding (especially smaw) practice makes perfect. An auto-shading faceguard is really the only thing that can instantly improve your welds.

oh, lol thanks..sorry never heard that as a compliment before..lol

I normally run a 14 when doing the little mig I've done, but I liked it at 11 when arcing.
I don't know how anyone could have any idea what they're doing without an autoshading mask.

It could take a bit if you don't have anybody to show you. Op, were you using 6011 electrodes in the picture?

well If you can do a program at a college thats the best bet to get good in about a year in not just mig but the other main processes, most places only hire welders with at least a college certificate. youtube and Sup Forums cant give you direct advice that is backed by experience right after you do a pass, a professor can tell you exactly what to do to be better for your next attempt.

6013.

Where did you go to school?

the struggle is real man, I was too poor when I got my first mask to get an auto-shade so I guess it's all I know at this point.

In Ontario, Canada. 1.5 year program that taught, Oxy-fuel , stick, mig, tig, tig alluminum, and flux core all within that timeframe, in my garage I dont think id get out of learning oxy-fuel within a year

start looks like it has a lot of undercut

Heres a flat one m8

I went to school in Waco, Texas and I learned the same stuff. Yeah, it really is so much more efficient to be taught this stuff. 100% worth the money.

here is some "behind the scenes" work, the wiring that is hidden under all the panels>>>>

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