GUNS

>building my first rifle (ar-15)
>machined my own lower reciever
>about to purchase kit online from midway or palmetto
>have plenty of fabrication knowledge (machining/welding) but not a lot on guns

Questions:

1:7 vs.1:8 vs.1:9 barrel twist; which is best?
which parts are worth upgrading? BCG?
what barrel length is the most practical?
should I serialize the lower or leave it blank? does it matter? (not planning on selling)
anything I should know from someone who's made a full kit purchase online?
anything I should know as a newfag?

first this thread belongs on /k/, but 20" barrel and dont bother serializing, not sure abt much else bc im just an ak fag, Have fun!

check out spiketactical.com

twist rate depends on what size bullets and what barrelt length. Faster twist for shorter barrels/smaller bullets, slower twist for longer barrels/larger bullets.

personal opinion is 16" barrel, 1:9 twist, 55grain xm193 ammo

In “AMERICAN” states, building your own firearms is completely legal just make sure it falls into this criteria
>Atleast 16” barrel (18” for shotgun)
>atleast 26” in total length
>Non-Automatic (machine gun for dumbasses)
>no serial number required, just don’t sell it.

Invest in the highest quality barrel possible, the rest isn't very important other than lightening your trigger pull, there's a tool for that.

why do they even sell kits under 16" online then?

oh, and no parts are worth upgrading for recreational shooting. Trigger and bcg if you really want to throw money at it.

pistols

This is the correct answer. Barrel length has no significant accuracy between 16"-20"
Twist has a slight effect but again, not much unless your using a specific grain load.

Can I build an ar 15 in New York? I know I can buy the kit but is making it illegal because we have a law banning assault weapons.

Pistols, or you can permanently pin and weld a muzzle device to the barrel the increase the length to over 16". So a 14.5" barrel with a ~2" muzzle break would be a legal rifle barrel.

:7 vs.1:8 vs.1:9 barrel twist; which is best?
depends on the grain. most common is 62gr which fits best in a 1:8
>>which parts are worth upgrading? BCG?
Optics, trigger, BCG, handguard. in that order
>>what barrel length is the most practical?
14.5 + flash hider. you'll reach out just fine and it won''t impede movement through a house. Also, you can cut the barrel and suppress it after a couple Forms.
>>should I serialize the lower or leave it blank? does it matter? (not planning on selling)
If you ever plan on taking out in public. it'd be a good idea. must be engraved. "Pepe's REEE shooters inc" is allowed
>>anything I should know from someone who's made a full kit purchase online?
Get a tool kit and an extra parts kits. You'll be happy to have a replacement (palmetto is decent) for if you lose a piece to the carpet/range
>>anything I should know as a newfag?
position BCG correctly. you don't need bipod, tac grip, laser, or light. spend as much on the optic as you did the rifle. Get to know her. Love her. and use her often. Brass/Steel casing only matters at the range. Steel wears out barrel quicker, and you have to clean it more but you save more than enough money buying steel to purchase two barrels in the time brass would do the same.

16in lmt, lower doesnt mattr

I want to engrave my existing builds, how do I best do that without making a mess of it? I'm sort of a perfectionist and want to have a professional grade finished product, will do my own anodizing also.

Why the fuck would you ask this anywhere other than /k/? But while you're here, just do what user, says.

Learn what your law says. Ban of sale? Posession? Construction? Also assume the law changes every year and is constantly being sued over. I would bet you would need a NY legal grip/stock, but you should check with local shooters rather than just guessing.

practice on scrap metal first. tiny stencils. Measure twice. No mistakes, just happy accidents. If anything no matter how it turned out. it's yours and you did it. You'll get a little better each time.

On the serialization.
It would be something youd have to check your local laws for.
Some places you are not required to serialize or register it. Some place you are required to serialize but not register. And some places you'll have to do both.
Always check your local laws.
But if I were you I would serialize It for you specifically incase it ever gets stolen. You can have something to report to the police.
The best work ive seen for easy engravings are laser cut. Although ive heard of places not wanting to touch already milled lowers without a serial number already on them. Ran into this problem when wanting to cerakote my lower at my lgs.

do you guys think my time is dwindling to make purchase because the revival of the gun control debate? Or because i already have the lower I've got some time?

>>>should I serialize the lower or leave it blank? does it matter? (not planning on selling)
If you ever plan on taking out in public.
Wrong, you dont need to serialize it. EVEN IF YOU SELL YOU DONT NEED TO, in most states. the only reason you would need to serialize it would be to sell it across state lines, then the transaction would need to be recorded. stop being daft.
THERE IS NO LAW REQUIRING A FIREARM TO BE SERIALIZED UNLESS YOU ARE MANUFACTURING TO SELL ACROSS STATE LINES. stop spreading misinformation.

also, OP go to k and ask or browse /arg, /qtddtot or start your own builders thread.

Buy yourself some cheap 80% lowers.
You can find them for $30 bucks online sometimes. If not they're 40. Just set them to the side for a while.

no. the whole trump > sessions thing is retarded. the memo says he recommends the AG look at the definitions of machine gun and bump stock. it said nothing about banning anything. AND the AG nor the president have any authority to ban those things. IF they did there would a law suit going to the SCOTUS citing DC vs Heller.

my bad. totally forgot that changes around states. or was I thinking about homemade suppressors?

I have some scrap lowers that I botched, will practice on them. After much trail and error the perfect setup is the Modulus jig and a Bosch plunge router. Just lacking the Safe/Fire markings and some serial#'s plus maybe some personalization.
I think we've got until the end of Trump's second term, then all hell breaks loose. Start buying lowers, reloading stuff, everything you can get your hands on. Buy it cheap and bury it deep. Owning a boat is also mandatory.

suppressors are regulated / taxed by the ATF and because of that are required to be serialized. so are SBR/SBS, DD, and AOW. regular guns have no registration thus no serial numbers needed unless you are selling across state lines (laws from dept of interstate commerce, not the ATF). keep in mind everything I say, Cali, NY, MD, CT, IL need not apply.

You can only sell a 80% on certain conditions.
Yes, it does need to be serialized.
That is the whole reason why polymer 80 is putting metal bands under the rail section of their frames. So you can serialize it if you ever decide to sell it down the road.
You cannot build a 80% with the intention of selling it. At that point you become a manufacturer.
If 10 months down the road you realize it doesnt fit your hands and you want something else.
Then you can sell it.
Homemade suppressors need to file a form 1 with the BATFE before the last hole is drilled in your end cap. Up until that point it is technically a solvent trap.
But they are still even a grey area for people to own.

best time in decades for ar's and parts right now. I have a good feeling it's only going to get better. Unless like a whole team of sick fucks goes in for a new high score at a preschool then they might have a 'cconversation'. this florida shit is just stoking the dying fire of gun grabbing. Nothing will come of it. but buy now. you'll be happier and have a new hobby. welcome to /k/.

dude, just get a set of number/letter punches and a scribe. use the scribe and a ruler to make a straight line and mark spaces where they should be. then punch away. keep in mind aluminum isnt that hard and you dont need to hit it that hard.

show me a federal law that requires you to serialize a gun you make yourself. those regulations are from the DEPT of interstate commerce. thus they cant do shit unless you sell over state lines. again, i only reference states with real freedom.

yeup. my brain without coffee isn't good. That's exactly what i was thinking about. no grey area in WA, you make the purchase at FFL, they hold it there, stamp recieved, go pick it up. And if the FFL has a range connected to it, you can technically use it at the range after purchase, but before stamp retrieval

that's good to hear
will be sure to ingrave:
>"Pepe's REEE shooters inc"

I figure I could use a press for better accuracy?
Also I want to make a lower out of marine bronze, do my own casting and use my buddies CNC machine to finish it.

I looked into building one, but they've become so cheap it doesn't save you much unless you go 80% and mill it to be off the books. I am considering buying some to stash, for future purposes.

I got an Armalite AR-15 with red dot for 350 last fall. New. Building anymore is for fun or just to stay off the books, but rifle transfers are off the book anyway so I just "sold" mine.

...

no need. the method i said would be plenty accurate. again its just aluminum you arent hitting it super hard. its more important i think to have your letters and numbers aligned precisely.

where do you get the gun barrels? Do you need any background checks?

...

if you are doing a cast, i would suggest getting an 80% and filling the threaded hole where the buffer tube is screwed and dont drill out any of the pin holes prior to making the mold. remember you can always take material off but its alot harder to put material back.

Christ don't do that lol

There is a board 100% dedicated specifically to posts like this, why would you post this here?

You order them online. No background check. Aber es kann nicht nach Deutschland geschickt werden.

no my turkish friend. the only part needing a background check is a complete receiver assembly. you can buy 80% completed receivers and they can be mailed to your house with every other part.

I'll go with that the, just make sure to have a backer and not crack the piece.

That's what I was planning. Worked in a foundry when I was younger, know how to cast.

1:8 twist is best for most of your needs. Unless you plan on shooting the heavy matchload stuff that's much more expensive.
Upgrades to look at would be better trigger, adjustable gas block, light weight BCG, and maybe a lighter profile barrel if you wanna be super light
16" is most practicle barrel since it's a decent length and not too long. Easy to handle
No need to serialize your lower but you can

Building an AR is easy to do.

>the only part needing a background check is a complete receiver assembly. you can buy 80% completed receivers and they can be mailed to your house with every other part.
Sorry cannot answer properly. ;)

Ok. Thanks. You have it good.

Im Augenblick, ja. Who knows what happens if the political center of gravity shifts. I'm glad I have everything I need already. I panic-bought after Sandy Hook.

Get a 1:7

Just get a good bcg, SOLGW had proper bcg for $119 the other day

Just do a 16"

Don't serialize it

I'd avoid a kit and just select individual components. PSA is shit.

What's your budget?

Are you set on building?

What's your purpose?

i seriously hope the gun blows up and you lose both of your hands

Lucky you. I think I need to leave this shithole soon.

couldn't you also get the nfa tax stamp to use a shorter barrel?

Yes go to /k/ OP, we dont particularly give a shit about you or your gun. They will though, along with telling you that your choice in gun is garbage

yes, but that would be 200 extra american pesos and 6-12months to wait. or i can just buy a pistol brace and say its a pistol. ATF came out and said you can still shoulder them, so the only real difference now is there are no adjustable braces because that would make it a stock.

fair enough, didn't know about that detail

You need guns to fix your problems Hans. Big guns.

Depends what you are doing.

If you want to shoot long range, go with a 20" heavy barrel with either a 1/7 or 1/8 twist. Don't get the cheapest barrel you can, find someone who will guarantee MOA. Higher twist rates lend themselves to stabilizing heavier bullets. Heavier bullets tend to have a better ballistic coefficient which makes them better for long range shooting. You want to use 70+ grain ammunition.

If you want something more practical go with a 16" with a 1/9 twist rate. That's ideal for shooting cheap 55 grain/62 grain shit. Do an m4 profile barrel, to save on weight.

If available, consider a .223 Wilde chambering. Supposedly it maintains accuracy between both 5.56 and .223 while a 5.56 chamber tends to be slightly inaccurate when using .223 ammunition.

Leave the lower blank. You can always serialize it later if you do want to sell.

PSA is alright. However, it isn't that much more difficult or expensive to just order the parts that you want. That way you can prioritize the things that you want. For instance, you will eventually want to change the grip to something other than the LPK grip or use a trigger pack. I would recommend looking around Primary Arms, Classic Firearms, Joebob Outfitters, etc. Some common upgrades you might want in the future would be an aftermarket grip, muzzle device, or modular free-float rail.

>twist
1:9 for most common 55gr ammo.
>upgrading
NiB bcg is worth going for. Or a SS or other upgraded barrel. PSA Freedom line is decent. Faxxon etc. Barrels are top tier.
Triggers are next, and optics. Vortex is good entry level everything.
>length
16" barrel, no appreciable difference from 20, but easier to wield.
>serialize?
Yes
>anything I should know?
Get the proper tools. You'll invariably build more. PSA is decent for lower parts kit, and their EPT trigger punches way above it's weight class. If you can, get a free floated barrel, increases accuracy and usually allows you to add attachments to forend.

Wilson Combat makes some really nice barrels. Also don't buy anything fro Troy Industries, they employ Lon Horiuchi fuck that faggot.

>Lon Tomohisa Horiuchi (born June 9, 1954) is the American FBI agent who shot Vicki Weaver at Ruby Ridge in 1992. An FBI HRT sniper and former US Army officer, he was involved in controversial deployments during the 1992 Ruby Ridge standoff and 1993 Waco siege

16" 1/7 twist. effective range is 500-600 meters maximum.

This, HOWEVER if you live in a commie state you can still do it, just follow the instructions of the posting Im replying to and make sure you only fire it in public land that you are very familiar with, if you can get to know the rangers even better. As for 30+ mags, try to give a family member out of state money to buy some for you or go to a military town, they usually have some guys selling 30rd mags to boot infantrymen who lost their.

I am building an A1 clone for it aint me memes.
What twist rate do I need for a pencil 20 inch that is only going to be shooting 55 grain?

If you getting a PSA full rifle kit you won't have to upgrade anything; all their parts are milspec or higher. Your basicaly building a 800$ rifle for 300$ if you build your own.

I already bought 2 PSA rifle kits for 300$ before they sold out.
Chrome BCG
Chromolly barrel
What am I going to upgrade from that?
Go ahead and get one or 2 while you can before the price get's crazy.