So I'm attempting to build a PC without any prior knowledge of doing so

So I'm attempting to build a PC without any prior knowledge of doing so.
Anything I should remove or add? I'm trying not to fuck anything up and pay too much for anything.

CPU: Intel Core i5-6500 3.2GHz Quad-Core Processor ($189.88 @ OutletPC)
CPU Cooler: Cooler Master Hyper 212 EVO 82.9 CFM Sleeve Bearing CPU Cooler ($27.88 @ OutletPC)
Motherboard: MSI B150M MORTAR Micro ATX LGA1151 Motherboard ($75.28 @ Jet)
Memory: Crucial 8GB (1 x 8GB) DDR4-2133 Memory ($48.88 @ OutletPC)
Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Mini Video Card ($138.99 @ SuperBiiz)
Case: Corsair 200R ATX Mid Tower Case ($58.99 @ Newegg)
Power Supply: EVGA 600B 600W 80+ Bronze Certified ATX Power Supply ($48.89 @ OutletPC)
Operating System: Microsoft Windows 7 Home Premium SP1 OEM 64-bit ($99.99 @ My Choice Software)
Monitor: LG 25UM58-P 25.0" 2560x1080 75Hz Monitor ($179.00 @ B&H)
Total: $867.78
Also, what's the best mouse and keyboard?

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/rfHPvV
microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10
forums.mydigitallife.info/threads/28669-Microsoft-Toolkit-Official-KMS-Solution-for-Microsoft-Products
pcpartpicker.com/list/tvbm2R
pcpartpicker.com/list/82BXM8
pcpartpicker.com/list/NWj62R
tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

First off, please use pcpartpicker as it's much quicker to read for those trying to help. Also, before you're given any advice. do you have a budget? And just so you know Sup Forums has a 24/7 pc building general for stuff like this.

Get a 1060 instead of a 1050ti.

Stop helping newfags.

1. Don't bother with a CPU cooler. You don't need it unless you overclock and you don't need to overclock that CPU so save your money.
2. get 2*8GB of RAM. You'll thank me later.
3. 1050Ti is shite, get a 1060 at least, or if not a 1070
4. Don't spend that much on a case. If you want to put in a fuckhueg radiator later for your l33t liquid cooling system you can get a bigger, better, not-shit case then. Until that point you're just wasting money.
5. GET A MODULAR POWER SUPPLY. GET A MODULAR POWER SUPPLY. JUST DO IT YOU FUCK. Or don't, but this is the dumbest thing to save money on. You'll save $15 and earn a lifetime of headaches that last as long as the computer itself.
6. Don't pay for Windows you dumb fuck.
7. >that monitor
Get a 1920*1080 monitor and then get a second one later and use the money you save to buy a better computer.

Always remember this saying:
THE POOR MAN BUYS TWICE.
If the choice is between spending a little bit more to get something you won't need to upgrade, DO IT. Save the money you need for that little bit extra on something that is easy to upgrade or that can be added later, like a second 1920*1080 monitor or a CPU cooler or so on. Cheaping out on a modular PSU so you can get a dickwank monitor is dumb and so are you if you do it.

I don't want to be that guy but amd is literally releasing new cpus that knock the shit out of intels. You could be getting an 8 threaded core cpu that overclocks at that price or cheaper if you wait until march.

In any case you're build has too many flaws and you could get a better video card by cutting down fluff.

pcpartpicker.com/list/rfHPvV

You don't even need to buy windows

microsoft.com/en-us/software-download/windows10

Just activate with this

forums.mydigitallife.info/threads/28669-Microsoft-Toolkit-Official-KMS-Solution-for-Microsoft-Products

y tho

See
While I agree with almost everything said here

>Don't bother with a CPU cooler

You kind of have to with Intel since they don't give stock coolers for free with 5th and 6th gen CPUs. Still, you don't need to spent more than 20 dollars unless you are overclocking.

Also, I want to reiterate that you should get a good power supply. It is often the most overlooked component, but it can have a pretty substantial effect on performance. You wont notice the impact of a good one, but you will notice the impact of a bad one(uneven power wrecking shit, loss of CPU and GPU performance under load).

>You kind of have to with Intel since they don't give stock coolers for free with 5th and 6th gen CPUs.
I think that's only on K series.

I'm using pcpartpicker for this, but I removed some unecessary text, and I'm on a budget of around $800-$900.

I meant post either the link to the list or screen cap i instead of writing it all out, but alright.

Also, basically what said.
Don't need a CPU cooler, as you're not overclocking and the one you chose comes with a stock one. 2x8 ram. Your budget definitely allows for more than a 1050, get at least a gtx 1060/rx 480 for your build and budget. Fuck that monitor, 1920x1080.

>3. 1050Ti is shite,
a card that's on par with GTX 780 is far from "shit" in my books.

All the monitors on pcpartpicker are pretty expensive, on top of that I'm looking for a refresh rate over 60hz. Seeing as how I have no prior knowledge of PCs, how would I obtain Windows for nothing? Is Windows 7 a good choice for OS or should I stick with Windows 10?

>All the monitors on pcpartpicker are pretty expensive, on top of that I'm looking for a refresh rate over 60hz.
Literal meme, and will make you more allergic to sub-60fps framerates.
>Seeing as how I have no prior knowledge of PCs, how would I obtain Windows for nothing?
Pirate. Or buy a cd-key only.
>Is Windows 7 a good choice for OS or should I stick with Windows 10?
You should stick to W7, and ignore all the W10 shills. Literally the biggest fuck up and botnet this decade.

Go windows 7.

Torrent an .iso off the internet and burn it to a CD. This is your boot CD. When the computer boots to BIOS shut it down, put in the CD, reboot, install.

Easy.

Then you need to get an activator to stop it reminding you passive-aggressively that you really ought to pay for it.

As far as monitors go just remember that you can always get a better one later, it's literally plug and play, but you're stuck with the computer you get for a while.

You can use any Windows 7 iso and download a small program called dazloader to activate it.

>Torrent an .iso off the internet and burn it to a CD
Why? everyone and their mothers have used boot USB drives for years. Faster and more handy.

You're going to have a blast without a hard drive.

Because doing things the old way still has merit in and of itself.

Fuck new things.

>check logical increments for your budget range (adjusted for extras like monitor, mouse. keyboard, etc.)
>find given parts on pcpartpicker
>add on extras that fit your budget
use college enrollment to get free Windows OS

This is like the definitive "my first build" guide. How do people still have trouble with this?

I already have an existing 1 TB 3.5" hardrive that I'm going to use with it.

>AUAUAUAUAUAUAU WIRES I HAET THEM AUAUAUAU

Okay, so I took into consideration what you anons recommended, and the cost has been brought roughly $100 down.
Is a CPU cooler still off the table or is it necessary for the CPU in this build?
pcpartpicker.com/list/tvbm2R

you don't need that cooler. 6500 does fine with stock.
be ready to add one more 8gb ram stick within the next year or two.
get gtx 1060. if you insist on poorfagging, keep 1050 ti but you don't need i5 6500 at that point. i3 6100 or 6300 would make for a better pairing.
600W PSU is completely overkill. 550W is PLENTY and even 450W would be more than enough for 6100/1050ti. instead look at gold rating. seasonic g series or evga supernova g2 are popular and for good reason.

>how would I obtain Windows for nothing?

see

Just making sure you know, you have two sets of 2x4 ram here, meaning in total you have 4 sticks of 4 ram each for 16gb of ram in total. And my personal preference, but I would get a higher rated psu. That one seems on the cheap side.

you could find a less expensive mobo, especially since the case is full atx. I'm also pretty sure that the mobo only supports ram up to 2133mhz and whatever other mobo you find in that price range probably will. get 2x8gb sticks instead. 6gb 1060 is the only way to go, the evga sc version is good value. you cheaped out big time on PSU. don't. get an SSD for OS.

>Video Card: Zotac GeForce GTX 1050 Ti 4GB Mini Video Card ($138.99 @ SuperBiiz)
This is how you spot someone who has no fucking clue what he's doing.

Yeah, I noticed that. I'll use the original sticks of RAM and find a better PSU.

which is why he made the thread

Non-k all get a stock cooler.

storage?

if that chip comes with a stock cooler you don't need to buy an extra one.

>Paying for Windows 7

If you already have a pc to work with you can easily make a bootable USB flash drive to install a pirated windows 7 from. With that POS power supply and 8gb of RAM you could definitely spend the money better elsewhere. Also consider recycling an old case rather than buying a new one KO

pcpartpicker.com/list/82BXM8
I changed a few things. Anything else that I should do?

>the ram

You are fucking killing me m8. 2x4, it an option that the sticks can be sold in. If you want 8GB of ram get one set of 2x4 ram. Also, just like the other another recommended, the 6GB 1060 is really the one you want. Get that and you're pretty much right on your budget and you have a better card.

Some people I know will criticize the corsair psu, but really that's up to you. I'm sure the one you chose will be fine.

pcpartpicker.com/list/NWj62R
I don't know if I did this correctly, but I'm glad I made this thread or else my build would've been $900+.

Looking good.

I'm planning on selling my PS4 to build this, console gaming is really showing its true colors and I can't believe people can play vidya under those circumstances.

Good luck and if you need help physically building it newegg has videos on youtube on how to actually build the pc itself. Literally just search how to build a pc in youtube.

16 GB of RAM is totally unnecessary.
t. 16GB RAM owner

I was thinking of putting 16 GB in the build to be safe but it's way too expensive. If necessary I'll likely add more RAM later on.

depends what you do.
but for gaming it's useless

this is a fine build

I replaced the original PSU with an EVGA SuperNOVA NEX 650w Modular one. Should I keep the original one or use this one instead?

650w is overkill, what you had was fine but it's your money not mine. If you want that PSU though know that the EVGA G2 is the second generation of the NEX and basically just a straight upgrade. No reason to get NEX when G2 exists.

Switch your PNY 1060 to a Gigabyte G1 Gaming gtx 1060 6gb

Youll thank me later

I'm leaning towards a Rosewill 550w Fully-Modular PSU. Another user recommend that I use a modular PSU. Would that PSU be good with my current build?

What's the difference between the two, other than the fact there's a different manufacturer?

Cooling designs, out-of-box clock speed, build quality. The technology is the same in each, it's mostly just how they make their coolers (you'll notice how they all look different) and some have a factory overclock. Look at the specs on each card and see for yourself if the extra clock speed is worth it to you.

tomshardware.com/forum/id-2547993/psu-tier-list.html

solid. there could be some bickering done about manufacturers of various components, namely gpu and psu, but the base is good. as mentioned before, look at evga g2 or seasonic g. as for the 1060, I'm partial to evga sc, but it doesn't matter all that much.

you may want to keep an eye out for a larger monitor though. while not absolutely necessary, 21.5 inches will seem a bit too small to you after a while. if you can find a 23-24 inch IPS with a 5ms response time, jump on that.

solid. there could be some bickering done about manufacturers of various components, namely gpu and psu, but the base is good. as mentioned before, look at evga g2 or seasonic g. as for the 1060, I'm partial to evga sc, but it doesn't matter all that much.

you may want to keep an eye out for a larger monitor though. while not absolutely necessary, 21.5 inches will seem a bit too small to you after a while. if you can find a 23-24 inch IPS with a 5ms response time for a good price, jump on that.

Get an 128gb ssd for that OS.

MSI's gaming X has a better cooler and comes overclocked out of the box, so it's slightly faster. It's not a bad idea to buy it IF the price of the MSI card is within reasonable range; remember, they both perform roughly the same

see if you can find that case without a window on the side panel, it should be 20 bucks cheaper

also consider define mini c, which makes more sense for your micro atx mobo

I replaced the original monitor with an Acer KN242HYL 23.8" 1920x1080 60hz monitor.

Paying extra for factory overclocked cards is retarded. They all overclock about the same so just buy a normal card with a decent cooler and overclock it yourself

looks like a definite step up from the Asus you had originally, but I'd keep looking for a while longer if I were you. remember that monitor is what you'll end up staring at for all those hours. you may actually wanna ask Sup Forums.

consider ASUS VS239H-P, the 23" has IPS panel

I did find a windowless Fractal Design S, but it was only $5 less than the Fractal Design S with window. At least it brought down the price of the build slightly.

What would be the advantage of having an IPS monitor?

IPS tend to have better colors and wider viewing angles while having larger repose times versus a TN display.

If you're the kind of person who plays, for example, online shooters a ton you would likely want a TN as the lower response time is of great benefit. If you only care about single player and how pretty your games look IPS is more for you.

Thanks, I might go with a TN.

Thanks for all the help, anons. You successfully brought down the cost to $797.09. I'll probably go to Sup Forums later on to make sure I didn't fuck anything else up.