Guts Thread

no guts thread?
needs to be addressed immediately.
like that GPU sag you keep lying to yourself about.

0.2 cent worth of zipties and your 'sagging' problem is solved.

My HD6850 with Accelero S1+2xNF-P12 would sag like motherfucker, but with the help of zipties, it hasnt formed to banana after five years.

So why look for more sopfisticated solutions?

>Creative X-Fi
>Windows NT6.0 or newer, which no longer use DirectSound on which all those Creative hardware sound processors depend

>1080 coming in the mail tomorrow
>Figure I better dust out my computer


Holy shit, it didn't even look that bad till I took off the plastic covering the rads. My temps and fan speed were still great though.

Hope my water block gets here soon. Fucking EK with their slow as fuck shipping

black/red meme coming through

here what the guts look like

What up Sup Forumsutters

Might replace my 2 HD7870s with a RX480 (or 2).

WiFi Card died :)

What CPU is that build rocking?

6300 on ebay, 4670 + mobo lined up to buy. Sticking with ATX for now, cause I might try and pick up a super cheap 380 when polaris/rx 480 comes out

Finally made a new pic

...

No upgrades anytime soon here. Unless something dies. Considering a USB 3.1 pcie card.

Your PC is running quite hot.

You're cooling the GPU first?
Never cool the GPU first...
Holy shit

>Considering a USB 3.1 pcie card.
My motherboard has USB 3.1, but doesn't have USB 3.1 Type C only Type A. So I might get one just to add a Type C port.

Took my pic whilst playing a game.

Oh ok, not bad then :) Taught that those were idle temps

But I don't have any sag, bro.

Gross.

Simple, but good looking.

Not bad.

y is computer a counter

This is nice.

Looks old.

If you dusted it would make a nice difference.

Blurryflash

Quite a few SSD's.

Nice card.

It doesn't matter. If you follow the loop, the water is hitting both rads before going back to the card. Temps on the cpu might be a bit higher than if he ran the loop different, but no more than a few C. And with a decent loop, your parts are running way lower temps than air could ever reach anyway. So long as the loop has enough radiator to dump heat, loop order isn't end all be all.

>If you dusted it would make a nice difference.
Should get some canned air soon

>nice card

Thanks. Was on the fence about selling it for a gtx 1080 but decided fuck it, I'll just keep it. I can get just shy of 1600mhz on boost with only +50mv and increased power target.

A loop where the GPU gets cooled first can actually heat a CPU up higher then air cooling, specially if you do monster overclock, but that's the point of it in the first place.

do u even no grade 2 thermodynamiks?

no but i kno lev 6 hardware macik

...

>bottom exhaust fan
why

Don't have a filter for it atm. Gonna flip it once i get one.

dont get your panties too wet Sup Forums

Where is your psu?

>That sata power wire just hanging there
>Dat 13" sapphire Fury

How is the fury treating you? I had that exact model and was plagued by random black screens and artifacts while idle at the desktop.

hey senpai, what case is that?

It has been flawless actually. Ive had it since like august 2015 i think. No crashes etc.
Just one thing. The eco mode is aids and the card downclocks itself in older titles but you can disable that in the standard gui.

Poor fag reporting in

Nevermind, I found it senpai.

>NCASE M1

Built this a couple of months ago

>that font rendeering

> (You)
>y is computer a counter
Front panel was destroyed. This was my cheapest way of getting it fixed.

the case has it on the other side.. corsair air 540 or w/e

>PRO GAYMING motherboard

Loop order has little to no impact on temps. Go with whatever will give you the shortest runs

I used to have that case, but only did a small CPU loop trough it.

>he can't afford real figures

>Using normie motherboards with shit South Bridge Cooling

Just shut up kid

Whats up with those ugly figures and why do people buy them

I'm about to down size into a Node 804. Just waiting for the next intel chipset

They're cheaper than real ones.

I like these little fuckers, even have one on my dash and as does my wife

I had a mini build once upon a time, was nice but a bitch to work on

Waiting for 1070/480 aftermarket cooler and bench! And a Monitor upgrade. Actually on 1080p60hz.
Havent decide between 1080p144hz or 1440p60hz

>Anime
kys

Yeah I know but its the one thing I haven't done yet so I wanna try it out

You should get 2560x1600

>1080p in 2016
>Spending less on your monitor than your GPU
2560x1440 or bust

>not 16:10

I've asked before, but do you mind sharing how you mounted your pump? Is it using existing holes or did you drill new ones?

No, it fucking can't This myth needs to die already, and for it to do that, uneducated, inexperienced retards like you need to stop spewing shit you don't know anything about for other retards to mindlessly parrot later.
In a loop, the liquid is flowing fast enough that it will not heat up significantly at any one block. The liquid would only rise in temperature after making multiple passes through the loop, but at that point it has also made just as many passes through the radiator. Even taking a worst case scenario approach, going from reservoir to pump to 4-way housefire/cpu/motherboard and then to the radiator, if there is even a 5 degree difference in liquid temperature between the "coldest" and "hottest" parts of your loop, you have a serious problem with your flow rate.

why is you water cooling upside down tubes should run to the bottom of the radiator to avoid air intake to the pump no??

You're both blind and retarded.

>Hard lined
>Red black and white meme trash
>980ti and 1080 60hz
>falling for the wall case meme
>shitty pop figures
>tubing looks like a cheap mexican PVC plumping job

I don't like the look, but I can appreciate the work.

...

>painted fans
Anyone still got that "maximum gay" pic of skillzero's rig?

Get some braided/ sleeved cables to match tbe colour scheme. Other than that, me rikey.

Skillzero? Man I fuckin hate that guy. Someone post

...

Not that guy, but care to explain how that's accomplished?

h

spaghetti in the southbridge?

Still doing the leak test stage theoretically, though its been a while since I turned it on initially so it ought to be plenty fine by now.
This isn't the liquid I'm using either, this is a cleaning solution. Trouble is I've got a PWM pump and the 5% power to it (when the system isn't complete, it can only pull 5%) isn't quite enough to push the whole loop. Close, but not quite.
As for the pump placement, I was under the impression that there was meant to be another piece included to hold it up nicely. Obviously not. Will be fixing that ASAP.
Will take another picture once I've got the system running properly.
Tell you what though, almost shat myself in fear and horror when the Fury X didn't turn on initially.
So fucking scary, thinking I'd fucked the £520 I spent last year in one mistake.

surgefag

Go 2560x1440~144hz
Honestly, best of both worlds with higher res and higher potential framerate. That way in some games you'll get better res and still go over 60fps, in others you'll have a better res and still have the potential to go over 60.
Also makes the most sense for the future, because when you upgrade the GPU to something even better, you'll then have that extra room on the monitor to utilise.

what is that bottom fan supposed to be doing?

also whats the point of memecooling if you box is still slam full of fucking fans?

>Go 2560x1440~144hz
What monitor does that? I'm interested in getting one.

Well personally I've got an Acer XG270HU (Freesync).
My monitor is no longer in production as far as I'm aware, though there should definitely be some options available. They're almost exclusively G- or Freesync though. Still, I'd recommend getting the Freesync variety because DP1.4 is supposed to be bringing in the adaptive sync (another name for Freesync) as a base standard.

I don't know if Nvidia will block it via software or something, but G-sync monitors cost normally something like £100/$100 extra.

You can nigger-rig a PWM pump or fan to run at 100% if you don't mind doing a little wiring. I believe you just have to connect PWM to a ground lead to get it to run, but you may want to double check that before you go ahead with it.

I've got the jumper kit, if that's what you mean. It makes fans run at 100% but because the pump uses half of a fan controller and have molex, I don't think it'd do much - unless I don't quite grasp what you're getting at and I'm thinking of something else.

Either way, should be fine now. Thank you for the advice though.
What I need to do now is sort out that bloody res to be in a better location (thinking I'll use zip ties to hold it up to the back) and to flush the cleaning gear out of it and put in the fresh, proper coolant mix.

No, jumping the PSU is different. What you want to do is use some wire and maybe cannibalize an old molex plug from something. You need to connect the PWM connector from the fan header to a ground pin on a molex connector, in addition to the molex connector already being used to provide power to the pump. It's not as simple as buying a part and plugging it in, but it's hardly complicated wiring either. The PWM lead is the green one, by the way.

I5 3570k