/mkg/ - mechanical keyboard general

>Buyer's template for the unenlightened:
pastebin.com/33S1gVkG
>Where to Buy:
pastebin.com/8Yku80VL
>FAQs:
pastebin.com/M5w7QtKp
>You are new and want our advice? Use buyers template
pastebin.com/33S1gVkG

Keyset wiki
keypuller.com

Old thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

massdrop.com/buy/varmilo-vb87m-bluetooth
mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1002
twitter.com/NSFWRedditVideo

HHKB PRO 2 or CM Storm NovaTouch TKL?

Where the fuck so I buy the fps Cherry keys for wasd and 1 to 6 for my k70
Cant find anything in Canada
Will other brands work? Won't it feel weird due to different brands manufacturing different shape keycaps

Should I return my keycaps?

Yes

HHKB unless you care about keycaps.

Other brands will work, but check the profile first.

I've had my DasKeyboard for a while now and wanted to know are there any reliable wireless ones out? I really just wanted to go full wireless. I don't want to lose quality, just wondering.

"boot enter" isn't ISO, it's just traditional US.

I'm jumping into the mech keyboard scene. Ordered myself a pok3r with clears. Can't wait for this to arrive and be done with my dell keyboard, that has served me well for many years.

Pic related.

What's the consensus on Fujitsu Peerless switches? There's a guy selling an Epson q209a on 3rdWorldEbay for fiddy bucks.

they're worth more like 20 bucks.
get something with leaf springs or magnetic reeds if you really want fujitsu.

Just bought the Ducky Shine 5. Did I do good /mkg/?

>no volume roller

You fucked up, homie.

what keyboard is that in the OP? it looks sick

DSA jelly pom when

also does feng/geekkeys.com have a physical location in the US i'm going there on vacation soon and wanna pick up some keys

first edition filco user here

Just use autohotkey.

You can always email them.

do alternate key layouts like dvorak and colemak have support in most programs? will i have to rebind all of my keys when i start a new game if i use them? will undo and paste commands etc still be in their same locations?

only like 2, there was a massdrop for one for about $120, bluetooth and all that
massdrop.com/buy/varmilo-vb87m-bluetooth

the only other one i know of is a cool $500

Custom RGB 60% with a clear case and 1976 keycaps

I really like mine, i want a new set of keycaps because it looks really basic.
>wish it had a volume roller
>wish it had more lighting options
>wish i had gotten blues instead of browns

all in all, it's a super solid keyboard, i'm gonna customize it to make it look a bit more special

>Budget
Location (continent at least)
eng
>Preferred switch type
clear or black although any sensible option will do
>Layout
preffered ISO although its not too important
>Form factor
TKless
>Backlight
little to none
>Previous/current keyboards
free one that someone was going to throw away

preferably with commands for audio such as volume and track changing.

thanks in advance

what case is that? and how does it look without leds?

I wish it was my board. I only saved the image.

Thread, could you please stop being shit

contribute something yourself, or fuck off back to eddit

You're either too pedantic or just retarded.
Not sure there's much difference.

its your job to spoonfeed me information and entertainment. please go about it now

I thought mech keyboards were meant to give you a "better typing experience"

please explain how boards which remove so many keys and force you to use modifiers for so much stuff are useful?

what a meme, kys. you guys are worse than apple when it comes to form over function

Modifiers are faster than moving your hand further to hit more keys.

I don't know what keys you are talking about specifically, but if for example you wanted numbers you can get an external numpad and put it on the left or wherever is best for you.

If you want home key or whatever then FN+k is probably more efficient than leaving the typing area entirely to go and hit it. (FN+k is HHKB hotkey)

it's ok if you don't understand.

Mechs keyboarda are meant to enlarge your e-peen you idiot

Doesn't really matter to me because I have a roller on my blue yeti anyway.

any recommendations for a white low profile case? or should I get tex clears?

I just bought a Realforce 87u 55g.

I'm the mememaster.

What makes certain 60%keyboards more expensive than full sized or 80%? Are you paying premium for style points?

metal cases, thick PBT or SA profile caps, and nice heavy plates all raise the cost.

As much as I hate the form factor of your keyboard, I have to admit it's fucking beautiful.

This is why I can never get the balls to purchase one. I want the perfect board that will last me a decade, that I'll never get tired of, but everything's either too expensive or not good enough. This seems like a NEET hobby for people with minimal bills to pay.

Build quality and supply and demand, as well as other factors such as stock keycaps and switches.

There isn't as much of a demand for smaller boards, hence they get produced less, hence they typically cost more.

honestly i have a 60% cause i wanted more desk room, but i think you're better off getting 80%, 60% is sorta a meme. like i'm use to it now but i can see the inconvinience, pressing 3 buttons when you only need to press 2 regularly lol, like i said it's not that bad it's just 1 button but it totally fucks up cause how your hand is shaped, fn capslock button you want to press.

The KBTalking Pro is nice if you can find it anywhere.

You really think 100 bucks is a lot of money for someone that isn't a NEET?

If anything, you've got it backwards. The NEETs are the ones whining because they cant afford a few hours worth of pay for a 10+ year hardware investment.

He probably means this.

We should just use the usual "bigass enter" and "ISO enter" terms to avoid shit like this

Ah, I see. But in my book all boots are boots even if upside down.

Poker 3 user here, watch out it's a little hard to get use to and very confusing to program. Well at least for me.

How do you print screen on those keyboards? Or there is a better method than print screen -> paint?

There's plenty of screenshot programs out there.

Get a programmable board and switch layers for games. Pok3r comes with colemak and dvorak as layouts by default (just gotta flip some dip switches)

If you don't wanna have to do that often you could also make one of the layers the layout you want

I've got some sort of gunk in a few of my cherry mx blue switches in my cm storm quickfire rapid. I don't know how it happened, it's been in a carrying case just sitting around since I got my pok3r. Has anyone got experience with cleaning the inside of switches? Basically when it actuates it has a lot of resistance or sticks a bit on a few keys. It was probably spilled pop or something that I didn't notice before storing it.

It's looking like I'll have to desolder said switches so that I can get at all the sides to take the switch apart and clean it. I already trying wiping at the switch with a paper towel covered in isopropyl alcohol and then pressing the switches a lot, but I don't think it's getting in there. I've already got the case apart and I ordered a frosty flake since it was apart anyway.

Anyone got experience with switch cleaning?

fn-p on a pok3r is the printscreen key

>paint
somehow I doubt many people here are using windows..

Keyboard??

>printscreen into paint
>current year

HHKB

HHKB Pro 2

How are you finding that CM Storm at the top left?

Where does one find key caps with this shape, the shape being more rounded and more "old-fashioned".

Model m master race

Considering getting Tai-Hao Sunset caps with no coating on them.
I'm sick of these shitty ABS caps with stickers on them

mhm

yes

google dsa keycaps

It's a quickfire TK.

It's quite meh in my opinion. The plastic case is flimsy and the metal plate is quite thin too, it has some flex if you put it on the stand-ups. And the bottom row is beyond retarded. I like the idea of the numpad/navigation keys block, but I think it would have made more sense to implement those via a momentary modifier rather than having to press num-lock every time you want to switch and then press it again to switch back.

Did I mention that the bottom row is retarded? It's really my main gripe with this thing, though I got it from a friend for 30 bucks, so I can't really complain. I don't really use it since it has browns, will probably replace them with gateron blacks and subject it to the same fate as the magicforce so I can make the layout a bit more sensible.

What you posted is the DSA profile. SA profile is what you'd be looking for if you want something more old fashioned.

>using OS X with no Command key

so brave

>membrane master race

Swapped the ctrl key to cmd mate. Works perfectly

It's buckling spring on top of a membrane switch that does not make it a membrane keyboard it is most definitely mechanical.

>that does not make it a membrane keyboard
user, it uses a membrane to actuate the switch, it's no different from slider over rubber dome in that aspect

>inferior to capacitive boards
>master race

OK so? It still uses a spring which buckles and triggers the hammer. Far more advanced than a membrane.

...

I own a model f 84 key at and a 107 key full metal case. I prefer the heavier feel of the model m. Explain to me exactly how it's superior to the m? The metallic pinging the springs make would drive anyone insane.

Nothing particularly wrong with that, I'm just pointing out that it's a membrane keyboard.

>Far more advanced than a membrane
It's still uses a fucking membrane to function.

capacitive sensing is more accurate, isn't limited to 2KRO, has more tactile feel, and larger carbon-infused flippers vs cheap shit plastic.

also no rivets, just straight metal. that's why Ms are 30 bucks.

Hey, I'm going to get an ANSI-board (I use ISO currently) and need some recommendations

>Budget
150$

>Location (continent at least)
Scandinavia

>Preferred switch type
MX Clears

>Layout
ANSI

>Form factor
TKL

>Backlight
Preferably none

>Previous/current keyboards
CM QuickFire TK

Preferably a white keyboard aswell for that sweet milleniall/90s feel. Saw that there were white Filco TKLs but they seem to be discontinued. I'm also really a fan of detachable usb-cable like the ones on Pok3r kbs.

Except it isn't a membrane keyboard. That to me would imply it's a stem that pushes down on a dome until it actuates. Simply not true .

It pushes the contacts on two membrane sheets together. You have to bottom out in order to actuate it. It actually uses a membrane.

How is it not a membrane keyboard?

It doesn't use a collapsing rubber dome like most modern membrane keyboards, but it sure as hell is a membrane keyboard.

it implies that it's a stem that causes a spring to buckle until it actuates on a *membrane*

So you've had a problem with model m accuracy? Irrelevant statement. I don't play games so why would I need nkro. It doesn't have a more tactile feel, it's a much lighter feeling switch with pretty much the same level of tactility. Cheap plastic shit that has lasted over 20 years? Try harder.

What are the Vortex KBS Poker 3 keyboards like? Is their case metal and are they worth the money?

It's a buckling spring keyboard. A membrane board is entirely different. I am not denying there's a rubber dome in it but that doesn't make it a rubber dome keyboard.

Yep that isn't a membrane switch it's a buckling spring switch.

>I am not denying there's a rubber dome
God gracious. Leave and don't come back until you know what you're saying.

It doesn't contain a rubber dome, it contains a membrane. It actuation works exactly the same like a modern day membrane keyboard.

nope, just smacking your bullshit "master race" statement down. a larger flipper made from different materials hitting a metal strike plate is most definitely more tactile. post a thread on GH or DT and try spouting that bs.

do you think people bolt mod Ms because they "lasted"? it's a cheap membrane held together by plastic rivets.

can you buy their metal case seperately?

I meant to say membrane but whatever. It also contains a buckling spring so it is not a membrane keyboard.

tope keke

A membrane keyboard is defined by that fact that it contains a membrane. It's a membrane keyboard user. It's literally right in the name "membrane keyboard".

Except I own a bolt nodded M and an F and I can tell you the f isn't more tactile. If the model ms were so shit with plastic rivets they wouldn't have lasted as long as they have

I'm not sure, I was wondering if the actual keyboard is metal (its casing), I'm really hoping it's not plastic.

No user it's a buckling spring keyboard which is also right in the name

Yes.
mechanicalkeyboards.com/shop/index.php?l=product_detail&p=1002

they don't last, they come off and fall apart. that's why so many people bolt mod them.

the two aren't mutually exclusive. it's a membrane keyboard.

What is pic related? Just a custom WASD with LEDs?

And it uses a membrane in order to register keystrokes. Most rubber dome keyboards also use membranes, yet people refer to them as rubber dome or slider over rubber dome keyboards. Like the other user said, those two things aren't mutually exclusive at all, just like not all rubber dome keyboards use a membrane.

They came off after what? 15 - 20 years. Perfectly acceptable

So do the keyboards have the same cases?

If you want something that lasts you'd be better off getting something else than that. Not that they'll fall apart or something, but they're spray painted, so the color will chip off quite easily. Look for something that's anodized if you want something more durable.

It's a buckling spring keyboard. That is what most refer to it as. Whether or not it has a membrane is irrelevant

>Whether or not it has a membrane is irrelevant
It literally wouldn't work without a membrane inside, so I'd consider that quite a relevant aspect of the keyboard.

not when superior models like model fs, hall effect and magnetic reed are completely intact

irrelevant to what? it has one and the inherent limitations, end of story, whining about it not mattering won't make the 2kro and plastic go away.