how well do these hybrid graphics cards work and should i get one? no way in hell im doing dedicated watercooling and i dont want the comptuer to sound like an airplane taking off like im used to
How well do these hybrid graphics cards work and should i get one...
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Basically the fan and heatsink just cools the vrm and ram and shit, while the water cooler keeps the chip cool
It is a bit quieter but for the cost of these things its not worth it IMO
Just do a real loop you fucking Jew. It's not that much harder. Don't fall for the ricer fake watercooling meme, either go all the way or not at all.
It's not quieter than a normal multi fan card if you replace the fans to better ones
I mean at the end of the day you still have two fans (one of them being a loud blower) AND pump noise
You could just get a two fan card, or an aftermarket heatsink even
Your only rationale for doing a "real loop" is that it's not much harder? Sick argument I bet you've got LEDs in your "gaming rig"
He's right though, all in one water coolers are almost always worse than a good aircooler
Not saying that GPU aircoolers are good, but just in general
There's really no point to an aio GPU cooler, either get a high quality air cooler (new fans, aftermarket cooler), or a high quality water cooler (loop)
Low quality stock fans and low quality watercooling won't make much of a difference
not on gpus tho, the AIO coolers are better than air.
you cant compare cpu AIO to air, because the cpu air coolers are massive, im rocking a DH14, and that wouldnt exactly fit well on a gpu.
SO AIO graphics coolers are better than AIR graphics coolers, but i still hear horror stories of leaking units.
And to the faggot recommending watercooling, fuck off, its too expensive for what it gives in return and its alot of work.
the money you waste on a water cooling set can just be put into a better graphics card instead.
They're more effective than normal air coolers because the rad will pump heat directly out of the case, which is similar to blower styled coolers but they move much more air. It's only worth it for the highest end cards (the incoming 1080Ti) if you want to have a stable OC for long periods of time and don't mind burning absurd amounts of money for a few percentage difference in performance. If you're not going to put an irresponsible voltage on your card, literally any other one will do fine. If you planned to run multiple cards then a "real loop" would actually be better however.
If you were looking for a quiet card then undervolting and underclocking is going to be a better idea overall however.
>have small fan running in bedroom 24/7
>never once worried about computer noise
>still don't even know what my computer sounds like
What are you guys doing to need a watercooled GCU?
>gaming
>not 4K porn, seriously
Why not just blow helium over the chips to keep them cool?
>all in one water coolers are almost always worse than a good aircooler
there is no reason to get a giantic piece of trash looking noctua over a 240mm aio cooler, just buy from someone with good warranty in case of a faulty product.
and there is no air cooled graphics card that can match even the shittiest hybrids in terms of temp
only gtx1080 worth buying are the gainward phoenix, palit jetstream or palit Gamerock
Or build a full custom loop and just buy the cheapest reference graphics card and put a full cover on it
I have the cheapest and most garbage GTX 1060 6gb you will ever see. If you remove the chunk of plastic that goes over the heatsink it looks like one of those old school GPUs with a tiny little fan, the heat sink is punier than a Intel stock thermal solution.
Anyway, I had a h60 sitting in my closet and I nigger rigged it onto the gpu and plugged into the motherboard's sys fan header, left the stock fan plugged into the gpu and pointed it at the memory, and mounted a case fan close to it. The case other wise has good air flow and nothing beside the lone gpu puts off a signifficant amount of heat.
I am able to maintain the max possible overclocks with out lowering the resistance on or replacing the 5(?) ohm resistors which is ~2150 clock and something like 300-600 offset on the stock memory clocks. It stays under 52c even under a multiple hour long stress and hits ~4600 graphics score in Time Spy. It went from sounding like a literal jet, I have never heard something so loud, to not being noticable.
I think investing in a good gpu cooler that you can use on multiple cards for the next 10 years is 100% worth it. Maybe not a hybrid though unless you're going to resell it. Buy a reference card and an aftermarket GPU cooler. I will never air cool my GPUs again.
>max possible overclocks
>2.15GHz
tweaktown.com
on amazon it's only $50 more, is that really much in the face of a $650 card?
Why the fuck are people so hesitant to build a loop? I'm fucking retarded and even I can build one.
If you look at the results on benchmarking sites only the Galax/y brand ones are able to do that. I think they give you more control over the power/voltage or whatever. Most others are extremely limited, you can't go past 116% percent power/1.62 volts. That's why the "mod" where you put liquid metal or solder a wire onto the filters to lower the resistance is so popular. You're not getting a stock 1060 past 2150 or so. Even the gamersnexus guy, who is 1000x more experienced than i am, was unable to get it higher and his cooling solution is also way better than mine.
gamersnexus.net
Mine is at 2130 but yeah I'm sure if I could get more power into it I could go way further considering I have like 30c of thermal headroom left.
How do you keep the coolant clean and corrosion free?
I install recirculating bath intercoolers on thermal analysis instruments as part of my job. We use an anticorrosive / antimicrobial additive as part of the coolant, and even then it's a problem.
Or do you just plan to throw it away in 2 years anyway?
Use plastic you dummy
this thread is so helpful thank you!
Sincerly,
OP
Take a biology class. When they mention "fungi" pay attention.
Googling "1080 hybrid" is more helpful
I suppose it's possible I'm a complete retard and am doing something wrong but I ran into the exact same situation described in that link and was unable to find anyway to modify the bios or do anything other than that mod. Really if you can prove me wrong I'll be very happy because I hate that the max OC barely stresses the cooler.
I see here on the galax website no mention of an improved power delivery system but it's possible they just "integrated" that mod into the PCB but using different resistors. I'm very curious.
galax.com
I haven't taken a biology class in 6 years, ironically about the time I got my first computer with a loop, which was already old at that point and hasn't been maintained since then
Still keeps computer cool
>idling at freezing point
>what is delta t
they subtracted room temp
A few drops of ethylene glycol will kill all and any growth.
Or if you can just use coolants. I use a concentrate bottle of ethylene glycol that cost $6 which I forgot the name right now. It's made by a German Watercooling company. A bottle will last you more than 100 builds.
Hey OP, can I ask what GPU you're looking at? If it's budget and you wanna throw a cheap AIO on it(super easy to do) I strongly suggest a polaris card as nvidia is very held back OC wise, you're not getting more than 10% pref. The 1070 would be a great value purchase too, you can get them up in range of stock 1080 performance.
I know that company. We use it. In fact, it's the standard fill for our technicians at new installs. It's good for a couple of years, but ultimately needs to be replenished.
It's not that nvidia can't OC well, it's that their boosting mechanism is really good on the 10-series and doesn't leave you with much headroom
I agree, I should have chose my words more carefully. I'm and as I said I could definitely get a ton more out of my 1060 if I didn't run into limits built into the card, limits that don't seem to exist on polaris. My goal here is not to derail into a radeon v gtx debate. That being said this guy with the funny english youtube.com
I'll be doing the liquid metal "mod" when I can get a hot glue gun to build a little mote around the filters so I can minimize the risk of getting conductive gunk all over the pcb.
their clock is heavily based on current temps
they start throttling at ~50°C, so keeping them at that temp gives you a nice constant high clock, since the air cooled ones are usually at 70-80°C
they lose up to 200MHz because of temps
I don't lose any clock speed on my 1070 all the way up to 69° (the max I've seen)
Same, not much throttling issues on my 1060 with stock air cooler. That said it maintains a rock solid 2130mhz clock under a shit 120mm 5 year old AIO at 50c.
1080 or 1070
check gpu Z
start game
see how clock goes down while temp goes up
Makes a difference in an itx case. Shitty asus cooler hovered around 80c under load. Strapped a kraken g10 on and haven't gone above mid 50s since.
That's exactly what I do, I use either heaven benchmark (is it not powerful enough?) or war thunder (because I can get 300fps in it on max settings and I'm assuming that's difficult for my 1070)
Nothing happens, temp goes up to 60's, settles at 68° clocks remain at 2.07ghz the entire time, same with memory clocks
I could turn my fan profile off, but I believe you that it would throttle if it gets too hot. I just think "too hot" is hotter than any normal gay men load because it's clearly more than 69°
I would go 1070/waitfag for vega.
Something like this is $370
newegg.com
and you could throw a cooler like this on it and that way you will be able to reuse the cooler as long as the loop lives.
newegg.com
strapping an AIO to a high end gpu is expensive, you are better off with a loop unless you want some micro overclocking setup.
alternatively you can strap a cpu sink onto it and get the same effect with less noise/cost
gpu heatsinks have been terrible for ever because they are limited in size to the slot
To clarify, single rad aio are not great
Large rad aio are good but cost more and will break down at some point. Most have 5+ year pump life though
they're completely useless. if you're going to water cool a GPU then go for a custom loop and full cover block.
fucking lol man.
its temp over ambient temperature man.
go learn a book
>under load at boiling point
>implying room temperature is 104° F
How much would it cost to build a bare minimum loop with the sole goal of cooling a gpu? Small rad, cheap tubes, pump and radiator combo.
that's not true, my 970 is designed to operate best at 80c, so it true to get to that temp always. this is because of the way material properties change with temperature
not worth it just do what this user did and get an AIO + gpu bracket. Can get an ok cooler for around $40 and the kraken g10 is around $30.
>just buy from someone with good warranty in case of a faulty product.
I'll stick with the product that delivers better cooling for the same price with low noise and doesn't have any risk of leaking at all, warranty or not.
Well the idea would be to expand to a bigger loop at some point and also the aesthetics. Here's my thing though,I could easily fit two all in one's in my case. I'm pretty sure with a $100 AIO cpu cooler you're not running into thermal bottlenecks on your cpu overclock, it would be down to silicon lottery and on gpus unless you have a model that allows you to have total control over the power and voltage delivery you're not going to run into thermal bottle necks either. Two all in one's would be 200 with the gpu bracket so what is the point of the custom loop practically? I don't think there is one
I replaced my CPU stock heatsink/fan with an aftermarket one and replaced some of the case fans with Noctuas. Didn't do shit to my R9 380 and the whole system is very quiet. I can leave my computer on now and sleep with it no issues and when gaming the fans never get noticeably loud.
tl;dr make sure your CPU heatsink isn't shit in the first place as that's an easy fix for an item that creates a lot of heat and go part by part to reduce noise after.
Don't just buy a bunch of shit at once. buy, test with load and without, then decide if it needs to be quieter.
At that point it doesn't matter, go ahead you're paying a shit ton
>Fahrenheit
USA cucks fuck off.
They work well but are not necessary. I got one of these hybrids for my old 780Ti once for 30 €, it was quite good, silent compared to the stock cooler and it ran at 62° instead of 82 even after I Oc'd it to 1300 MHz.
I switched the 780 for a 1060 3GB later, the upgrade was free and it was much more silent and less power drawing. Now finally got a 1070 FTW and I have reached the point that hybrid solutions are not necessary below 300W TDP.
Dont waste your money, my 1070 FTW does 2100/4500 MHz while staying around 60 degrees.
Prebuilt water cooling units are fucking garbage.
It'll be a lot cheaper? You could run both the CPU and GPU off of the same cooler for instance. having a separate pump and reservoir and cooler for each is just redundant.
Same radiator I mean, not cooler
Degrees is actually one of the few units that has no objectively more useful standard, Fahrenheit and Celsius are arbitrary, so is kelvin other than one piece of data
Metricfags btfo
Imperialfags btfo