/dmm/

What make / model multimeter do you use?

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youtu.be/M-FZP1U2dkM?t=6m12s
ebay.com/itm/Brymen-BM257s-Digital-Multimeter-6000-count-Brand-New-Fluke-alternative-/200922627340
homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Non-Contact-Voltage-Tester-NCVT-1SEN/100661787
twitter.com/AnonBabble

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/diy/ =>

A Fluke 117, have an external Fluke unit for thermocouoples and a Fieldpiece unit for milliamps and micro amps. I probably spent more on probes that I did on the meter.

But user dmms are technology

I don't remember. Something small, black, and analog from Walmart.

Is the free multiemeter from Harbor Frieght worth getting? I need a cheap one for random uses

Those ultra-cheap harbor-freight units, they're accurate enough for most work, and I don't have to worry about blowing them up.

If I ever need anything especially accurate, I borrow my boss' Fluke.

>he doesn't know how to link to another board

kys newfag

I dont know what it is, but usually if you are spending

...

I've had this bad boy for... 15 years now?

dude wat? did you know that light bulbs cost $2 yet plug into mains?

...

I have an expensive one that I never use and a cheap as fuck one that I abuse the hell out of.

I use those $7 no-name multimeters from electronix express in my classroom. Alternately, I let my trustworthy students use the national instruments USB DMM/oscilloscope that came with our FPGA chips.

>did you know that light bulbs cost $2 yet plug into mains?
not sure if trolling,

try that with a $10 meter on the current setting, tell me how many fingers you have left after you do it

Oh, also I have one of these for when I mean serious business.

Which is never.

Dude they all have internal fuses. Even if they didn't they would just smoke an internal trace.

that's a nice multimeter

Except the cheap ones arc across and blow your fingers off.

youtu.be/M-FZP1U2dkM?t=6m12s

>4 KV

That's way above the ratings of most multimeters. Fuses only protect against overcurrent not overvoltage.

208 volts will do the same thing on a cheap meter.

>dude wat? did you know that light bulbs cost $2 yet plug into mains?

People like you need to stay the fuck away from anything electrical. I don't need my health insurance premiums going up any further because some dumbass shocked the shit out of themselves.

prove it

Cheap Uni-T UT61E

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Get out of Sup Forums you fucking code monkeys.

the cheapest one
>DT-830B

I use one of these old Simpsons I got from my father. I have a digital one too, but I use this more often around the house and generally just use the digital one at work.

>inb4 analogfag

Which tool would you recommend to measure very low resistances (0.1-2 ohm) with decent accuracy? Multimeters with high accuracy cost over a thousand dollars. Are there any nice dedicated ohm meters for cheap?

Depends how much you want to spend. A Keysight is amazing, but you probably do not want to drop that much cash and it is not portable. Do you need to carry it around or would it just be on-site? Benchtops are the best from my experience with very low resistance where even .01 ohm and under matter.

i have a Radio Shack 22-183A

This, I got a few of them, they are 3€ here ordered locally and don't have to worry about breaking it

>says the circuit monkey

Piss off back to your beginner programming thread, pootoloo, and let the real men talk.

>having a DMM without ethernet
plebs

>posts a picture of a wave with a shit ton of noise

This has to be bait.

i don't get it

Fluke 87V

>Keysight
>kysight
>kys
kys

>he uses a multimeter
>he doesn't just use his fingers and estimate

a VC99 and a cute little UT120C

they work fine but autoranging could be faster

>says in his consumerist thread

circuit monkeys everyone

Labview is cancer

i don't use it
thanks for your concern

Yep.
Mine was 2.76 Euro

I have exactly that one on the right, but it's a different brand: Etekcity

>he uses his fingers
get on my level, you amateur

>>he doesn't just use his fingers and estimate

I hired a handyman once who had no problem checking if a 110VAC wire was hot by touching it.

He was up on a ladder getting the wires ready. I asked him if he wanted me to turn off the circuit breaker for the room, and he said, "no, that's okay, I like to leave it on" -- and then I saw him quickly touch the bare wires to double-check which one was hot.

>VC99
My nigga, i approve.

Retard.

One recommendation, put a drop of superglue onto the probe wires, because twisting them, the wires can snap easily from the probes.

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heh, too late for that... both of them broke already, but I soldered them back in their place. After that I used the head of a toothpick (inserted between wire and probe) in order to prevent twisting.

Btw, the super glue is possible to cut the wires in time, so be careful...

Still the best all-rounder. Fluke are way too expensive, they might as well be made of gold...

>$150
>made of gold

RIP in Peace, user

Fluke 115

Fluke 115, its amazing and I know I'm not gonna die working on my houses electrical.

Got a Metrahit One, was like 200€

>paying 160$ just for house electricity
look at this retard

>>paying 160$ just for house electricity
They're cheaper than that, my 117 was $150 and its the same thing but with contactless AC voltage detection. And if you want to get butthurt, my pouch of probes cost more than that:

TP81 vampire probes, TP175E twist guard probes, TP40 automotive backprobes, TP88 rigid back probes, and a set of silicone leads.

>10$ less
wow that makes all the difference

$ less
for a more expensive model. anyways stay butthurt

I have the same one (rebranded) used it for school

Also have a fluke 175

meanwhile you can get a Dave-approved Brymen with proper CAT IV for a 100 bucks.

>comparing a CAT IV to a CAT III meter

I should have said a 300V CAT IV to a 600V CAT III. Its the same thing. Also your brymen bm257s is the same price as a fluke 115. all it has is poor chinese grammar, and ma/ua meterings, and probably lower accuracy.

ebay.com/itm/Brymen-BM257s-Digital-Multimeter-6000-count-Brand-New-Fluke-alternative-/200922627340

that's not the eevblog bm235

Greenlee DM-510A

THIS model has so much bang for the buck. However, the connections for the probes are to tight and it pulled apart the connection of my included probes.

DT830b user here, I use it for mains daily and it's okay. Just don't act like a retard.

Who /clamp/ here

>I know I'm not gonna die working on my houses electrical

????

I got a little 3-inch metal probe with a LED on it for like $3 that I can stick in outlets or touch on bare wires to see if they're hot. Why would I fumble around with a bulky meter when I can just keep a little probe the size of a tiny screwdriver in my pocket?

Fluke 179

I got this one. It was the cheapest I could find that's autorange. It works fine.

how much it was?

I have one of those, i had to replace the probes tho because something wasn't right with the negative one and didn't make proper connection with the com jack

>how much it was?

The best e-bay price is about $12 (shipping included), but it will ship from Asia, so expect at least 2 weeks for shipping.

I'm in the USA, and I would have to pay about $20 minimum to get it from a USA supplier.

A Fluke 75 and a Fluke 8026B.

Would a cheap $10 multimeter blow fuse/burn up if you short a large charged desktop PSU capacitor? The ones that are north of 200V. I think I saw one rated for 470v once.

Cheap glass fuses tend to explode.

Are those decent?

They're seem to be rebranded brymens

Sanwa PC7000 DMM

High resolution/accuracy

Interesting, do they still say brymen on the boards?

>He was up on a ladder getting the wires ready. I asked him if he wanted me to turn off the circuit breaker for the room, and he said, "no, that's okay, I like to leave it on" -- and then I saw him quickly touch the bare wires to double-check which one was hot.

When I was a wee lad still in school, I used to work at WSBE. One summer we were yanking out the old xmtr and putting in a brandy-new one. Bob, the oldest engineer there, used to check with his fingers too. He'd make a U with his thumb and forefinger and brush the tips over the hot and neutral, respectively. For 240V, too.

I guess if you know what you're doing, it's OK, because you don't get to be old like him and not.

I still won't do it. They have these fancy pen-like things that detect the electric field. They're cheap. A lot cheaper than a visit to the ER.

homedepot.com/p/Klein-Tools-Non-Contact-Voltage-Tester-NCVT-1SEN/100661787

I have some POS I got at AutoZone for $5, 10 years ago. Sometimes I think about getting some fancy Fluke but it seems like a waste when this thing works fine for my modest needs.

possibly

Ah, thought you were the user that owned one.

Poorfag coming through. Can't afford a Fluke so I'm forever stuck with UNI-T.

Just got one today to check when replacing a ballast.

>that's not the eevblog bm235
And the BM235 is out of stock on dave's page and on amazon. Congrats on bringing up a model which looks like it has been discontinued.

The rating on the capacitor has nothing to do with what kind of charge it will actually have.

80s vintage Micronta 22-195A

I literally have like 4 of these i got for free with coupon while buying tools at harbor freight lol

80's meters look the best.

>but with contactless AC voltage detection

You can buy a klein tool that does this for like less than 20

Not that user, but it's handy to have all that shit in a single package.

who /analog/ here?