/pcbg/ - Video Game Console Assembly General

Post your component list, rate other anons', and ask questions in general.

Always state the purpose of your PC, your budget, AND YOUR COUNTRY if outside the USA.
If you are asking for improvements, clarify whether you want to lower price or to improve specs or build quality.

Assemble your parts list; built-in price comparisons by vendor and a compatibility filter.
pcpartpicker.com

Have a budget, but don't know where to start? This will recommend you a parts list based on price.
logicalincrements.com/
>Subsitute a G4560 with 2400MHz RAM for the i3-6100 in any build; same performance, half the price.
>Consider stock fan+heatsink for any i3 or locked i5 build without a Z mobo
>Consider a B150 or H110 mobo for any i3 build
>Add a 240GB SSD to the "Great" tier build

General build advice including chipset compatibility, power supply advice, Windows activation information.
pastebin.com/9Pbm4nHL
>Outdated, does not including info about 200 series chipsets

Information about how to assemble a PC, how to select components, etc.
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php/Build_a_PC

If you see any other build advice or part list threads, direct them here with Previous thread:

Other urls found in this thread:

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813144004&cm_re=MSI_z270_sli-_-13-144-004-_-Product
overclock.net/t/1570313/skylake-overclocking-guide-with-statistics
au.pcpartpicker.com/list/hcnfD8
pcpartpicker.com/list/sjmw8K
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824106004
pcpartpicker.com/list/2HyCgL
twitter.com/NSFWRedditImage

Is 1.32 volts a lot of voltage to get a 6600k to 4.5GHz? I've read that 1.3v was already pretty high

I want to cum inside Nanami-chan!

Thats a shitload of volts for an Intel chip - possibly dangerously so.

You're too high.

Online people are regularly posting over (and under) 1.3v for their skylake overclocks, I had mine at 1.25v/4.3GHz but I saw a video of some guy using 1.45v so I assumed 1.32v couldn't be that bad
Is temperature the only danger or can high voltage damage my CPU even at normal temps?

Aren't electrostatic bags supposed to be very dangerous on the outside?
I thought the whole point was that the inside of the bag was electrically isolated from the outside

Any recommendations on a z270 mobo? 7700k going in it, but from what I've read all z series will overclock, so not sure what the point of a $300 mobo would be. I have no m.2 drive yet, but plan and getting one, I use it for gaming, specifically single threaded games that need strong cores, and music creation.

MSI z270 SLI seems to be working fine.
No ugly LED's on the motherboard either, like gigabyte garbage

This one? All of the Gigabyte midrange have no led's, but the initial reviews seem to be they run hot out of the box, like 10C above asus and msi.

1.45v is absolutely insane for Intel chips - hell most of AMD's 8 core fx chips run below 1.45v. You don't pump that through a chip without knowing what you are doing.

Gigabyte ultra durable is the go-to lineup for /pcbg/
MSI used to be complete trash, worse reputation than asrock for a while, I don't know if the new ones still are now, I never wanted to find out

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16813144004&cm_re=MSI_z270_sli-_-13-144-004-_-Product

This one.


I don't know what the "plus version" adds, besides being uglier.

What was trash about them exactly? (not him btw)

The spec sheet apparently says the limit for skylake is 1.53v if I stay below that and within safe temps it shouldn't hurt the CPU right?
What is the worst that could happen from 1.33v of high voltage? (I guess the voltage limit is higher than I thought too)
I don't know at all myself, I'm just seeing half the people online say 1.3+ is too high and half the people online run 1.4v saying it's fine

Quality control
Same problem with basically any and every motherboard.
Features aren't a big deal now, it's all built into the chipset, motherboards basically come down to which chipset it uses, what slots it has, and build quality

What do I need to know? I don't know what I'm doing, all I've changed is the multiplier and the vcore
Do I need to adjust other things to keep it running cool and stable?

Yeah but I mean... do they just suddenly stop working or come DOA.

I have a MSI z270 board so I'm worried now.

I've always used gigabyte, and love the dual bios and they do last when running 24/7, but hate the io panel it ships with.

overclock.net/t/1570313/skylake-overclocking-guide-with-statistics

This makes me feel better, seeing so many people ranging up to 1.4v and above. Interesting that 4.5GHz is achievable at lower voltages, but 4.6GHz and above generally needs well over 1.3v
I'll see if I can get it stable at 4.6 without bumping the voltage too high (maybe 1.35 should be my max?)

>150 for this shitpile of a board
>Z170 UD3 and has better VRM
Union Point boards are so ridiculously stupid priced. Fuck Kaby Lake and fuck Intel for this.

If you can cool it, clock it.

This does mean keeping an eye on your motherboard as well at high(er) voltages.

>video game console assembly general.

Damn, for a second I thought there was a general here for shit like NES ASM programming. Got my hopes up.

>Z170 UD3
>better VRMs
No it doesn't. Just compare the number of power phases and the chokes they used.

t. gigabyte shill

No, we just assemble parts for Windows-based video game consoles here

Number of phases isn't everything, by that logic ASRock would be the best choice for everything.
>the chokes they used
Source?

t. MSI shill

I bought an ASRock mobo. Am I fucked?

au.pcpartpicker.com/list/hcnfD8

What's a good monitor for this build?

Gigabyte UD and mid-tier MSI boards use the same exact chokes from the same factory.

I'm thinking of getting a GPU.
Due to size and power restrictions I was looking at Zotac's GTX 1050 Ti
Am I correct in assuming I'll be able to play all current games at a stable 30fps?

The processor is an i7-7700t

no, solid mobos despite what Sup Forums says
in fact I'd argue they're the best mobo manufactorers in the world at the moment

Purpose- Gaming
Budget- 800$ not including processor
I have a hard drive, power supply, tower, and an optical drive
i don't know a lot about computer parts so I've been asking friend what to get but i don't know what is the best brands for quality and performance wise

For a processor i was thinking an AMD

Great source, you mind if I quote you in this email I'm writing to gigabyte and MSI?

You're not fucked until it breaks.
Until that day, enjoy it, as it will work properly until it doesn't

She is not for lewding!

assuming you won't overclock

get a z270 motherboard and an i7-7700k

for the GPU get a gtx 1080
then 16gb of DDR4 ram 2400
what is your power supply? you might need a new one, looking at that pic it seems your parts are quite old

They are a few years old
the power supply is a 100-240v
the hard drive is 1 terabyte
It is very simular to the one in the pic

>the power supply is a 100-240v
kek that's good to know but what about the wattage?

>source = my ass

Just shows how much i know, it is a 550

>assuming you won't overclock
>suggests OC mobo and unlocked CPU
Are you retarded?

>get a gtx 1080
Thats already pushing $800 budget

I'd just prefer to stay under $1,000

Anything but a 8350 is ultra shit, and even an 8350 is shit, just get an i3 and a RX480, a tiny SSD and a cheap HDD, plus the rest of the computer

Is it true that i7 is just a meme and that you're better off sticking with i5 even with high end GPU?

I've heard that but couldn't find out which is truly the best

Hyperthreading is not a meme, it's just that many applications (mostly games) can't use it to it's full potential
But when you can use hyperthreading fully, you get some immense gains, similar to adding extra cores

What monitor are you playing games on? Would you consider a monitor upgrade later on?

So I guess the next question is would games be able to utilize hyper-threading anytime soon?

Even though I'm trying to 'futureproof' as much as I can (big budget), I don't want to spend extra on hardware that isn't going to benefit me anytime soon.

With DX12 taking off and Vulkan so widely praised it would look that way. But even last year that wasn't the case and only some games were using plenty of threads (battlefield1 for example)
While I do think a quad core i5 will be enough to handle future games (I'm using a 6600k now), an i7 wouldn't be a bad choice, especially if you do more than just play games.
But as it stands now, speed is still more important than threads and i5's are just as fast as i7's thread vs thread

The monitor is an Asus, couldn't tell you any more about it

What CPU cooler do you guys recommend?

Not on Skylake.

>pic related

Budget and CPU?

>Nearly 1.6v at 5GHz

$50 intel Core i5-6600K

Hyper 212 evo and $25 of weed

Cryorig H7 or H5. Don't listen to this degenerate. Weed is for niggers and loser NEETs and the H7 is better than the 212.

How retarded is this build? Mainly want an HTPC.
pcpartpicker.com/list/sjmw8K

>HTPC
>ATX
You might as well get a standard tower, why bother with HPTC if you don't want to save space?

Hyper 212 evo and $25 of meth to rice your desktop all night

Interesting, thanks for the insight.

This will be a tough decision for me. My history indicates that when I create a new build I hang on to it for a long time. [spoiler]Although I make a lot more money now so I will probably be LOL to that because that's eventually what this hobby turns you into.[/spoiler]

>taking any drugs
>ever

I can't seem to find a smaller board with an M.2 and built-in Bluetooth and WiFi. Either that or I suck at finding them. Also forgot the Power supply.

>Either that or I suck at finding them
You suck at finding them. There are many mATX Union Point boards with M.2 support, i guess a fair portion also supports WiFi, no idea about ITX though.
Also, if you want to OC then imho you shouldn't get a HTPC build, cooling on those is almost always an issue unless you want to spend stupid money on a capable ITX board, case and AIO.

Hello, Printed Circuit Board General.

What is a Graphics Card that you guys would recommend? stay under $500

Idk how much a GTX1080 costs in US, if it's over $500 then the only logical choice is a 1070.

>have country set as australia on pcpartpicker
>550 bucks for a new motherboard and stuff
>set country to usa
>380 dollerydoos
just fuck me up

how many of you unashamedly have ricer LED builds?

well it's adjusted to your higher wages

Has anyone here built their own case? What do I need to know? I'm going to be building an itx aluminium case for a mini pc

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824106004

Is this a meme or worth it?

1080 is $600 minimum. 1070 is $400

Guys my pc keeps shutting down while gaming, this can be 5 mins into opening the game or 5 hours.

Something's wrong with the PSU right?

Gaming at 1080p/144hz

GTX 1060 or GTX 1070

if you have a system that can both pull the frames and resolution for the games you want to play, then I guess go for it, if not, don't waste your money.

Any gripes?

pcpartpicker.com/list/2HyCgL

i got a 1080 with a 6700k

Then get a good 1070, there's no other reasonable choice with a budget of $500.

The fans are trash, rest looks decent.

...

...

ok, what do you play? witcher 3 or cs:go level demanding games, something in the middle?

>The fans are trash, rest looks decent.
What do you recommend for fans?

lol not even a button on the case to change the color, fucking shite

lol i got like 400 hours on witcher 3

Noctua NF-A or Be Quiet! Pure/Silent Wings 2/3.

well in that case, the monitor is a big meme, save yourself a couple hundred dollars and go with a 1440p 60hz monitor.

im thinking 1080p 144 though

bump

1070 if you want to keep the card for some time.

for AAA games, you're still not going to be pulling those kinds of framerates, with the 1080, you can play at play a locked 60 at 1440 and very playable 4k. you can forget about playing at 144hz without lowering the settings by a lot or playing less demanding games.

Is there a way to force my graphics card to draw 1440p even if i only have a 1080p monitor?
I want to run some tests and see if it would be worth it with my own hardware

How does this look? I'm going to point out now that in the long run I 40% of the total cost will be returned/reimbursed and so with this cart, it effectively costs around £570.

What would you add/replace? Main storage will be backed off the a Synology DS1515+ or DS1815+

OS/Lightroom Catalog/Games to be stored on the main SSD. Only thing I'm really unsure on is the configuration of local storage and possible caching in lightroom etc. A part of me wants a PCIe SSD, would it make a significant enough difference?

neither

You need a 1080 to stay at 144fps constantly even at that res

I've never heard of that being done or even possible, my best bet is to just continue with looking at the benchmarks, and drawing conclusions from there. I'm sure someone here can give more input on the matter. also, nice quads.

8gb rx480