>Headphone purchase advice
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>Sup Forums wiki headphone FAQ:
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>Windy day
>Constant megaphone noise
>Live-Amplified guitar
>Open back 598's
Anime is confirmed dumb
>Budget
250 usd
>Location
Usa
>Source
Phone and Fiio x1 II
>Type of headphone
Over
>Open or closed
Will be used on the train and plane so closed
>Comfort level
Very
>Sound signature
Neutral or bassy
>Past headphones
Some chink IEM´s
Razer headphones are good, but the Razer Man-O'-War 7.1 Wireless is my favorite, it has built-in surround, which is pretty nice, specifically for CS:GO's HRTF, and it's wireless, where I could go down to my kitchen, get myself something to eat, go to the bathroom, and still talk to my friends/watch a video, and it's also useful for the HTC Vive if you don't want to use headphones.
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First for best budget headphones.
Second for the best open, closed and earbud under $50
Thoughts on the DT880? No sennshills please.
Sorry for sennshilling but... aren't these HD600 wannabes?
MDR-1A or MSR7
what is a good parametric eq? I prefer something small.
I want my nigbass back
Equalizer APO + Peace GUI
best iem at 100 usd mark?
I dualboot linux and windows so software would be annoying since you would have to somehow sync your configs (if that program runs on linux)
I'd rather just have something on my desk that would go under my magni
You mean like a hardware EQ? I don't think parametric hardware equalizers exist.
They do, but you'll be going through a lot of hassle since they're mostly made for studio applications from what I understand.
>They do, but you'll be going through a lot of hassle since they're mostly made for studio applications from what I understand.
I don't mind that
rack would be fine (but ugly)
Hey lads, I'm looking for some cheap Bluetooth headphones that I can wear at the gym. Do you guys have any recommendations?
What are some good tracks for testing out headphones?
Also where to get FLAC files for cheap/free?
>parametric hardware equalizers exist
Sure you can do that. Parametric EQ were originally analog, variable RLC parts all the way.
Of course, it's many times cheaper, easier, and better to do with digital operation. It would be an external unit, but still digital.
Off the top of my head, one of miniDSP units, either as a kit or pre-assembled.
2x4 HD can be used as a DAC, and the cheaper version in which the USB input is just used to program the filters (only analog audio in).
The miniDSP stuff is more aimed at digital crossover design, you should be able to find other products in that vein from stores that sell DIY audio gear.
reeee why can't there just be a magni sized thing with three knobs on it?
Q, gain and frequency
If sound signature is relatively easily shaped, why is there so much concern over the sound signature of a headphone?
Just to get the sound you want out of the box?
I feel like frequency range, comfort, soundstage/imaging, and build quality would take precedent under an always EQ presupposition.
Because there's no saving shit that doesn't have a neutral signature.
Neutral masterrace! HD600
>Sony MDRXB950BT/B
Thoughts?
Yes?
No?
Are VE Monks that much better than regular apple earbuds?
>hd600
No bass lmao
the Golden Time OP, if the drum roll is too in your face your headphones suck
The second OP? I don't remember a drum roll in the first.
You deaf? x"DDD
yeah the second one
Anyone buy any wireless headphones recently? I'm tired of my wired ones they're a pain and they broke the audio of my case just now
Have fun with no bass, user. Any other headphones you own?
>Budget
Around 100 USD
>Location
Burger
>Source
Laptop and clip zip
>Type of headphone
Full sized over ear
>Open or closed
Closed
>Comfort level
Maximum comfy. Going to be used 12 hours at a time
>Sound signature
Bassy
Reposting from last thread because I forgot to include a detail. It has to have a removable cable.
HD598, HD380, PX-100.
The little miniDSP is slightly smaller than Magni. They just don't have knobs.
Filtering would also take a lot of knobs and a lot more space.
Would you have preferred the DEQ2496, rack mount and sub-par construction? At least it has knobs.
>frequency range
>soundstage/imaging
These are not distinct from the sound signature.
There's laziness/ignorance.
Being used with multiple devices would mean transferring the correction filters to each new device you used it with. Not all devices are equipped with an adequate equalizer; you may have to buy an external unit.
Not a ton of options out there with a removable cable in your price range.
Nuforce HP-800 (can't speak to their bass), Status CB-1 (pretty flat sound), M40x (mostly flat sound).
You might look into the Basstyle TH-5001 which just look to be Pro 80 rebrands with a detachable cable.
Any of these might require a pad change based on your preference.
All those headphones don't have bass, user. What are you comparing your HD 600 to? Either way, you weren't the shill I was looking for. Oh well.
None of those headphones have bass, user. What are you comparing your HD 600s to? Either way, you weren't the shill I was looking for. Oh well.
PowerBeats 3 by Dr. Dre and Apple Inc.
>Budget
R$200 = 65USD
>Location
Brazil
>Source
PC
>Type of headphone
full-sized
>Open or closed
Closed
>Comfort level
Comfy
>Past headphones
N/A
I just want it to have really strong bass as well.
> 65 bucks
> Brazil
I don't think you'll be able to afford anything good really.
Senneiser HD 202.
>Status CB-1 (pretty flat sound), M40x (mostly flat sound).
Neither are particularly flat. M40x are slightly V-shaped, and CB-1's are quite bassy.
Try again.
How do you manage to fuck up this badly
>Budget
~$100
>Location
US
>Source
USB
>Type of headphone
FUll Sized
>Open or closed
Closed
>Comfort level
Need it for 8 hour work shifts that also provide the best sound quality, have a bunch of callers who have shitty quality phones
>Sound signature
I'm going to use this for gaming as well, so maybe v-shaped? Whatever gives the best all around sound for gaming and music, I guess.
>Past headphones
Rocketfish gaming headset w/ 3D sound
I'm kinda in desperate need for headphones, because my RF headset has a short in the wire that mutes/muffles sound on the left side of the headset, and it makes it hard to hear stuff. Basically the only place still open right now is walmart, so I know the chances of me getting something good from there is slim to none, but does anyone have any recommendations? How are the Razer headsets?
Do you need it to be USB? no 3,5mm?
If so I think you're limited to shitty gayming headsets. Maybe the Cloud HyperX will work but I think they're 3,5mm. The USB dongle they come with has a minijack for the headphones and another for USB.
Cloud's are 3.5, Cloud 2's have the usb.
Oh, then that's definitely what this guy wants. Pretty much his only not-completely-shit choice.
Shit, thanks user those 2 look awesome
Guys between these two? MDR-1A or MSR7?
I prefer a bassy sound
Is HD588 better than SHP9500S? I thought I'd like to try the SHPs, but the cheapest I get them in Ireland is €120 ($127), versus €100 ($105) for the HD588.
I'm quite annoyed I don't live in America where I could get some SHPs for $55.
Well, I don't have a proper sound card other than what's on my modem so I'm stuck with the shitty realtek driver and the realtek driver gets super shitty when plugging in and will fuck up my speakers until I reboot my PC.
no i have 200brazillian dollars.
which converts to 65USD
All depends on your prefered sound signature, user. Both are comparable, but one isn't outright better.
>Samson SR950
Are these easy to drive?
MDR-1A is more bassy.
Is the front, case port actually worse than the rear, motherboard port in a measurable way, or is that claim just a carry-over from another time?
I wouldn't say much but they're better in every way except bass because of the roll off.
No, they should be near identical. They go into the same DAC/Amp. If the wiring is poorly insulated then it may pick up audible EMI. Just listen to the two.
Are import taxes as bad as I heard?
That's why I'm saying you really can't afford anything good assuming you get charged hefty taxes.
Like that other user recommended your best bet is probably the HD 202
Yeah; They're definitely easier to drive than the 668B's and run off my phone just fine.
Just checking. There's another thread up about DACs/amps and someone was getting meme arrow'd something fierce about how the signal was weaker and inferior with the front port.
Technically it is weaker, but by so little that you couldnt even tell by A/B testing.
Whats the cheapest good quality dap out there? Need microsd support for atleast 64gb
Do amps really make a difference? Starting to doubt an order of the Schiit stack.
Bought a pair of HD6XX's and the difference between them and my old $50 headset is kind of negligible.
I know people say they need an amp to shine, but shouldn't a $200 pair really beat a $50 pair
>the difference between them and my old $50 headset is kind of negligible.
It takes time for your ears to adjust.
See if your friends have a good amp to try with your headphones, or wait till the next "latest and greatest" smartphone comes out with a built in DAC and Amplifier(LG G6), and try it out at the store.
How long do you think I should give for the adjusting?
Does upping my budget to 200 give me any options that fit my requirements?
Why is every single equalizer in Realtek HD Audio fucking garbage except for Powerful?
How long will HD600s go before the plastic starts giving way? I don't toss my headphones around or anything, but the plastic construction concerns me.
Soundmagic E10c or Mee Audio M6 Pro?
>inb4 secret third option
It can be a bit hit or miss. Ive had mine for like 7 years and theyre fine, but my friend has only had his for like 2 and theyre cracking. You can just buy spare parts from Sennheiser directly, though better build from the get go would've been nice.
After taking the lock out of my 588's, I hear rattling in the left earcup. Could this be due to uneven torque to the grill screws?
Sennheiser are fucking jews when it comes to spares.
Earpads for my HD 7 DJ cost 60 bucks a pair. The headphones new cost 115 on Amazon. That includes two earpads, two cables, carrying case and the headphones.
a week.
desu you can probably juse use any generic oblong circle type earpad on the HD7
HD600 pare are another story
Meet in the middle with the E30
they're 70cad, and have no option for inline remote.
Which looks the best?
imgur.com
Of the 3, the top one.
The Aqours one
Bottom right from that image.
My HD600s sound rather unremarkable out of my T520, they sounded fine out of my old desktop with a Xonar DG soundcard. What cheap portable amp/DAC combo device does /hpg/ recommend to liven them up?
So how does /hpg/ clean their Complys?
Mine look disgusting. I've read Hydrogen Peroxide cleans them up good without wearing them down but I don't have any at hand.
Bottom righht
Samsung Level U Pro
Did I do good? Got it for $40 and it's my first BT headset.
Guys.. Im still experiencing weird static sound through my amp/pc and also I got toslink and it didn't even work with my pc and it's the aux adapter and it didn't work.
What the fuck man, what should I do? Im really about to throw this amp through my window.
also I don't know which DC 5V is properly fit to Origen+. Fuck this amp give me my money back
halp
pls
Looking to buy second pair of headphones. I have HD6XX. Want different sound. Maybe K701?
Can someone rec me good earbuds around 30€
>Budget
Somewhere under 200 USD, maybe 300 depending on the value for money
>Location
Aus
>Source
Some logitech speakers running from the back of my PC. Nothing fancy.
>Type of headphone
Over
>Open or closed
Closed
>Comfort level
Within reason
>Sound signature
I have no fucking idea
>Past headphones
Sennheiser 212HDs
It needs to have a removable cable, or someone needs to really, really convince me that I won't be fucked with a fixed cable. I've replaced the cable on these at least 6 times and it's been a lifesaver.
>Want different sound.
EQ
M-Audio HDH50
can someone suggest headphones similar in price and squality as the 598 ty
>Could you explain for a pleb?
Sure.
>I commonly see people say it's useless to buy an amp/dac unless you're using lossless.
This is an audio myth born from misconceptions about how lossy compression works and likely misconceptions about how amplifiers, DA-converters and headphones work or how their shortcomings can be audible. You often hear weird ideas about audio where people think each component and source as some sort of a bottlenecks to each other. While this can be the case it's rare and indicates something is broken more than anything.
The problems with amps and DACs boil down to:
>noise and interference(hiss, crackling, noises)
>high output impedance(alteration of frequency magnitude)
>lack of gain(low volume)
>clipping if amplifier is overloaded(distortion under large current draw)
Once certain criteria is met you achieve transparency and if not the signal is audibly altered. The possible alteration caused by your amp and DAC is very different to that of how lossy codecs fail at reproducing the signal. Many people don't seem to understand this but a modern computer/mobile device is already a headphone amplifier and a DA-converter and they can be all that you need for driving headphones properly.
>lossy/lossless
Lossy audio can achieve transparency, too. That means it doesn't necessarily sound any different from lossless. This is common and easy to achieve. Quality of lossy audio is dictated by data rate, encoder and encoder version used, format used and the audio content being encoded. Without knowing all of these parameters it's useless to make claims about it. Transparency is subjective and a moving target on all gear. Being able to tell compression in an ABX listening test takes skill in listening and knowledge of the artifacts. It's a learned trait. Without a double blinded listening test don't bother. Just to note, this says nothing about how objectionable you find the possible artifacts even if audible.
Continues in the next post...
>cont
The perceptual coding makes use of auditory masking(boh temporal and upwards frequency masking) and the ears' lowered sensitivity to specific signals or frequency ranges where less precision is needed, throwing out data and lowering file size. Once you starve the bitrate enough, the quantizer usually fails in high frequency transients. This causes unique coloration which often sounds like echoing and shimmer. It's not clipping distortion or noise, interference like additional sounds in the signal nor are these limitations imposed by inadequate gear good at masking out the failing quantizer and its artifacts. Unless extreme, lossy coding rarely does anything to dynamic range or compression either and it does not meaningfully alter the frequency magnitude which would be the domain of headphones.
So what do you make of all this? It means your headphones, amplifier or DA-converter has very little relevance in hearing compression artifacts. Their problems lie in different domains each can be audible simultaneously. There exists some correlation but only with downright broken or extremely low fidelity gear. Headphones or modern computer electronics aren't part of that. Going back to your original question
>If your music isn't lossless, is there any reason to buy an amp/dac and headphones over $100?
Ignore the price of these components. They don't guarantee you anything.
some typos and additions...
>both* temporal and
>and* each can be audible
>headphones [discussed in these threads]*
At work, I might be slow to reply.
Best IEMs below $50 chink stuff allowed go!
Tennmak Pro
Carbon Tenore