Chronograph Edition
This thread is about the appreciation of watches, as well as the micro-engineering and materials engineering that are required to make a fine watch.
>Required Viewing For Newbies:
youtu.be
>Strap Guide:
pastebin.com
Previous thread:
Other urls found in this thread:
youtu.be
youtu.be
youtu.be
youtu.be
youtu.be
youtu.be
twitter.com
For those who haven't seen the videos on chronographs:
Part 1: "Roots and Features"
youtu.be
Part 2: "How it Works"
youtu.be
Part 3: "The Flyblack
youtu.be
Part 4: "The Split seconds"
youtu.be
Part 5: "Very Special Chronographs"
youtu.be
S N O W
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Posting chink chrono movement
If you're interested in the COS chrono. Chronos don't need pushers! As few holes drilled into a case the better.
I really want this chronograph. I've not seen anything similar on the market.
However I really don't get why it's £820. That's a £100 ST19 movement.
Yeah ok they added a date and a moon phase complication but still... that price.
what does /wt/ think about straton syncro which is on kickstarter right now
i think the design is ok, there is a 40mm version of it too
can be had on a meca-quartz or automatic NE88
Nice daytona homage m8
So chinese wizards added automatic winding to a Venus 175
another thing to be noted is that u can also have it with a date at 6
meca-quartz has a 24h subdial instead of seconds on the automatic
Cross posting from old thread:
If you are interested in King Seikos, first I suggest you do your reading about them. Most of the knowledge that is out there in English about King Seiko exists on specialist forums about Japanese vintage watches.
The really short version:
The King Seikos with 52xx movements like the 5246 and 5256 were produced by Daini Seikosha (Google it) in the 1970s using their final high end mechanical caliber from before the quartz revolution.
The 52xx is a 28,800 bph automatic movement with hacking, hand-winding, bi-directional automatic winding, quick-set for both day and date and instant day/date change on the 5246 (eliminated on the 5256 to add protection against breaking the quick-set if used between 9pm and 3am).
It is one of the last handful of very high grade series produced automatic movements developed in the 1970s before the quartz revolution. This group includes the Omega 56x/75x, the ETA 2892-A2 and the Rolex 3035.
The King Seiko Special models produced with these movements were very well adjusted from the factory and are often capable of remarkable accuracy if maintained in good condition.
The Suwa Seikosha 56xx caliber, on the other hand, was an independently developed 28,800 bph automatic with similar features to the 52xx, but it does not have as good inherent accuracy and all the versions with date or day/date features should be avoided because the quickset mechanism on the 56xx series has a plastic gear that shrinks and cracks with age alone (not wear) and so EVERY 56xx quickset will eventually fail. As a result, only time only 56xx King Seikos should even be considered.
To be continued...
Also cross posted from last thread:
Continued from (You)
The King Seiko 45xx watches are manual wind 36,000 bph movements but these movements are prone to excessive wear and need frequent servicing. Be prepared to spend a fair bit keeping it maintained, but the inherent accuracy of this caliber is so high that it caused the Swiss to stop holding chronometer trials in the late 1960s out of fear that Daini Seikosha would push the entire Swiss industry's shit in.
If you want a hand-winding hi-beat from this era I would recommend the Lord Marvel 36,000 instead. It uses the 5740c caliber and manages to have very good inherent accuracy combined with reliability (surprising since it's a Suwa caliber).
My local watchmaker (an expert in vintage mechanicals) recently worked on a couple Lord Marvels and was extremely impressed with the movement.
Now, before you run out and get scammed on auction by a frankenwatch, listen to me carefully: if you are going to by vintage watches, you are OBLIGATED to do enough research about the models you are interested in and the case/dial/hands/bracelet/movement combinations they were offered in to be able to decipher how original one is by yourself.
You should also know the market for them well enough to know what is a fair price for an example in a certain condition, and know to NEVER buy vintage watches from India, South Korea, China, or Southeast Asia outside of Japan, really.
You can find them on eBay, but can usually find better deals on Yahoo! Japan Auctions using a proxy bidding service like Buyee. Be warned though, on !Y Japan you are on your own, if you get screwed you will not get a refund. You have to weigh the risk/reward for that yourself.
Here's my 1975 King Seiko Special 5256-8010, since I assume you haven't seen it before. I got it for $140 USD + shipping off Y! Japan Auctions.
One day...
>That feel when your 6R15 is back to doing about -2s per day
Freezing in the car seems to have had no lasting effect
Wasn't the 56 Caliber a 21600 movement? Or were those just the lower end ones that they put in the Lord Matics? Also interesting to hear our watchmaker likes the Lord Marvel. He always seems to have something nice to say about Seiko pieces. I also recall him saying that what they did to design the 7018 was "pure fucking genius". Amazing when a guy who normally works on high-end Swiss stuff can be wowed by unassuming midrange Seikos. Really shows you the thought and ingenuity they put into the product.
Funny thing is not all Suwa calibers are inherently unreliable. Their bread and butter, run of the mill stuff was pretty good. Consider the 6106 for a moment; it's just a durable workhorse that does one thing and does it well. It just seems that when they added complication, their shit usually blew up in their faces. So a 36,000 movement like the 5740C that does nothing but tell time would be okay, but then a 6138 chronograph is doomed to fail.
Can I pull off a seiko turtle with a 6 inch wrist?
The 562x used in the King Seiko like we're 28,800bph movements. It's the 560x version used in the Lord Matic that ran at 21,600bph.
In general, Suwa was a lot more experimental and unconventional with their movement designs and a lot of their design decisions haven't worked out in retrospect (56xx, 613x, etc). Daini was a lot more conventional in their approach but totally fanatical about execution (an approach still evident in the modern Grand Seiko which is actually Daini derived).
Our watchmaker worked on a couple of 5740Cs recently and told me he expected them to rival my KS in accuracy, which blew him away. Said they had none of the excessive wear issues of the 45xx.
fuck off ninefag
Thank you so so much Mr friendly canadian. You've really helped me. Do you reccomend taking it to someone to get it checked out after you buy it
Should I spend 35$ more for the J version?
Seeing as they're the same, no.
Not that user but I thought the J version is made in Japan while the K version is made in some poor third world country.
Why the hell would they do that? They're all made in the same place, the only difference is markings.
Look what Vostok just did.
It's automatic, but 44mm, so insecure manlets should look for something else. Then again I believe the original had a pocketwatch movement or something, I can't remember.
You should expect to need to get every vintage watch you buy fully serviced after purchase. You should look for a local watchmaker that does NOT work in a mall and who has a good online reputation for working on vintage watches.
Part of the reason there are so many assholes from Southern Ontario in these threads is that there are two fairly famous watchmakers here who can service literally any vintage mechanical watch to an extremely high standard. This facilitates collecting vintage watches immensely.
is this an actual decent watch or is TGV jewing me
I would but I'm not a smart man
Thanks, m8.
Mainly looking at the quartz ones though
>managed to snag a carrera reissue for 145k yen
Went for less than I expected. I guess the other bidder interested gave up since I put in 156k right at the start of the auction.
...
> want to build my own watch.
>have decided on a seagull ty2130 which is an eta 2824.2 clone
>all the cases for sale that fit this case are fuck off huge dinner plates
Why the fuck are Chinese cases so fuck huge? The movement is 25mm the case does not need to be 46...
If it's a clone why wouldn't it fit in a case made for 2824s?
Take ur chinese cartoons an' shove em' up ur ass
Why are you typing like that?
Why aren't you typing like that?
Are you telling me you spent 145k Yen on a Y! JP auctions? You got brass balls, lad.
It will but when I search eta 2824 case I just get fuck huge submariner cases. I'm looking to create a classic dress watch
Why?
Of the Japanese seller sends you a broken franken different from the listing, good luck getting a refund. From my understanding Y! JP pretty much automatically rules against gaijin.
Hence brass balls.
Every purchase online is a risk m8.
are there not 52xx Day/Dates?
Only seeing the 56xxs and I really like a Day/Date on a watch
Shit they look much more expensive.
Is it possible to replace the plastic wheel of the 56?
The 5246 and 5256 are day/dates, the 5245 is day only. When searching on eBay or Y! JP auctions search using "Seiko 5246" and "Seiko 5256" to find them.
No. The plastic gear in the quick set mechanism shrinks due to age and cracks, so even NOS replacement parts crack in the bag.
If 52xx King Seikos are out of your budget you can also look at 52xx powered LM Specials like the 5206 and 5216. They were not adjusted as finely at the factory, but share the same movement and are much more widely available.
The 5206 vs 5246 and 5216 vs 5256 are differentiated only by how much adjustment they got at the factory. After 45+ years the condition of the movement is going to count for more than the factory adjustment in MOST cases.
>REMINDER CASIO'S PLASTICKY DOGSHITS ARE THE MOST REDDIT-TIER WATCHES
Thanks a ton, user.
Also looking around WUS and finding stuff like "4823-8110" that I can't find anything on.
The plastic piece is a huge put off.
Whoa, other people like things that I like? NO FUCKING WAY.
>tfw lusting for the marinemaster
fml
At first I saw it as a meme, then I started seeing it more and more.
Now I want one.
the calculators ones are p dope tho
it's a big fucking watch. but its beauty is derived from its utility. I'm never going to go deep sea diving but I want the fucking watch so bad.
It's just so sexy
I used to but now I'm starting to hate it. those weird thick, straight lugs, the monocoque case, and the mediocre bracelet are really turning me away suddenly. It really makes me sad since I love the face of it so much.
Check Perpetual
He sells one for $500 which is still a bit steep for a guy making watches in his bedroom with cheap movements
>can buy a seagull st19 chronograph movement for £100
>can buy a case for £30
> no one seems to sell dials
Shame a custom chrono project would be fun
>He doesn't know that the >40mm original fliegers were intended to be worn over flight jackets rather than on one's wrist.
There's one on display at the NYC Seiko store if you're ever around there.
Holy fuck it looks so good in person.
What kind of watch is this?
Have you actually had any issues with Y! purchases? They're unlikely to list a defective/ fake/franken just because there's the small chance of jewing a gaijin bidding on a JDM auction, right? I just got a King seiko on there, and am considering spending much larger amounts on used Sinns & Omegas.
Limited edition Speedy.
Your mom has several complications.
Got $500 to spend: Seiko, Tissot, Hamilton, or Casio?
The "Vietnam Fuckin Shit" Edition.
No, but I have heard a few stories. It's more so the almost total lack of buyer protection that would have me concerned with bidding more than a few hundred dollars on anything there.
Seiko
Not Hamilton or tissot for sure
Seiko if you want a mechanical.
>not Hamilton or Tissot
why?
If you're spending 500 dollars your best options are new Seiko and lots of vintage options.
What's riskier? Kraut chrono24 seller or Jap Y! seller?
My biggest issue is that their entire line up seems samey across the board. Nothing really seems to be outstanding unless you go after their stuff from the 70s and 80s.
Just to be clear, when I said vintage I didn't limit it to vintage seiko.
Japs don't fuck around like us western piggus.
If they advertise something online, you'll get exactly what you see.
Oh, I'm aware.
But a lot of the stuff I like is that 1930s modern/Bauhaus stuff, so going vintage means going old.
Shitter watch
Fuck me the lord marvel 36000s on eBay are 600+
Any reason why or is this the archie meme?
Nah bro they're fine. Buy a Tissot.
This has been my experience with Y! auctions really. Gotten a few things around $500 in exactly the condition as advertised in the auction. If I'm not mistaken part of buyee's insurance plan is taking a look inside the outer box to make sure the item is actually inside.
Both brands hold little to no horological significance to the brands they were founded on. For example, they're both owned by swatch group pumping out bullshit heritage marketing that has nothing to do with the company today. Hamilton will have a generic ETA (not even top grade) in an underwhelming Chinese case
Is seiyajspan safe or do they like to scam gaijin?
huh, only heard good things about them outside here (specifically the jazzmaster for Hamilton and the Visodate for tissot).
Anyone wear a modern hand winder that isn't a speedy or 1963?
My habring.
That's because their marketing works. Are you getting a piece of shit? No, but you could be doing better for your money. Some people here will lead you to believe anything with an ETA in it is literal dog shit but if you decide to get one just know you could be doing better
Nice what model? I'm Austrian.
Sure.
The only thing about others, is most don't even approach those two in terms of design (not talking about the movement).
jelly
This watch is proof you can be obviously a Chinese watch and still look classy.
Love the "proudly made in china" on the case back too.
What other watches are obviously Chinese and not trying to fake European style and heritage?
I can buy an eta 2824 on fleabay for £120 and stuff it in a Chinese case. Why does tissot and Hamilton even exist?
COS Chrono. Single subdial for running seconds, one of his 2013 versions with silver dial.
Did you purchase it through one of the numbers listed on the site? Or trading / in person
I purchased it from an AD when USD exchange rate to their country was very good.
Nice
Is there a list of all the chronos available on the market with the Seagull ST19 movement?
I'm looking for a watch with a specific style, can /wt/ give me a rec?
I'm looking for a white paper-like dial with crosshatching or circular engraving. I don't know what the proper term for it is. Blued hands, roman numerals or no numerals, but nothing with arabic numerals and some complications like a moon phase, date, power reserve etc. Not dinner plate sized.
Can spend $250
How hard is it to get a specific Habring model? I've read that they're made in tiny batches annually, and given that they're not priced astronomically high I'd always assumed that ADs sell them quick.
I've got two Nomos watches. My Tangente is the only mechanical I've owned so far that has stopped working and needed to be sent in for repairs.
If you want a specific model with specific color? Yeah that might be tough. I'm not sure what you would need to do if you want something super specific and an AD doesn't already have it.
Speaking of habring, I shot an email to hirsch asking if they would make a similar sailcloth/rubber strap as this, Short answer is no. I could email habring now, but I'm not sure they'd sell a strap to some pleb who didn't also buy one of their watches.
I don't see why they wouldn't.