>/Hpg/ Pastebin:
pastebin.com
Please put some effort into your requests and questions and keep shilling to a minimum.
If you dislike a suggestion, explain why and try giving a better suggestion to whomever asked.
For sub-$50 headphones and IEMs, check out the infographic in >Sup Forums wiki headphone FAQ:
wiki.installgentoo.com
Other urls found in this thread:
1st for best memephones
nice pic OP
but next time change that filename to something else onegaichimasu
I want the most neutral headphones under £1000, so it doesn't distort the music from its original sounds
HD600
hd600 :^)
thanks, if it need an amp for this headphone which one should I get? it also has to be under £1000 but i want my music to sound very good and non coloured
magni/modi 2 or NFB-11
>neutral headphones
HD600 hands off.
>amp/dac
With your budget, I'd look at Modi2Uber + Magni2Uber or Jotunheim.
how does it compared to the o2?
o2 is open hardware.
schiitstack/jotunheim win at everything else.
What do you mean open hardware?
do these headphones really have the best combination of sound quality and noise cancelling for a pair of wireless headphones?
theverge.com
>wireless
>active noise canceling
Just got $25 Phillips that reduce the fans at work to a whisper and sound very good for the price, I can imagine a more expensive pair of Sony's will cancel out outside noise even better and sound better, if not bassier.
What's the best set of cans I can get for outside use/traveling for $150 ? Good build and comfort being a huge plus.
>and sound very good for the price
If you say so.
I mean, I own X2's and I can totally compromise with them since they're so portable and cancel out shit at work
Watch out user, you'll trigger the "Watch out for TrustyFucks(tm)" meme guy.
O2's made with parts anyone can get and build together.
what would be the most neutral planar headphones?
I'm looking for a nice pair of 100-150$ headphones
I'm mostly looking to play games / listen to music
I'd prefer to not have to buy an amp for them
thank you for non lewd op image
>still using Monoprice headphones 8 years later
HD558; they're discontinued but much cheaper than they used to be. They used to be $150. They sound virtually the same as the HD598.
I appreciate the input, I'm not sure how bad the sound "leakage" (I guess?) would be with them, do you have another suggestion for a closed back pair of headphones?
What is /hpg/'s choice between:
HD280
ATH-M40x
MDR-7506
MDR-7510
Shure SRH840
?
You won't find any great sounding closed headphones in your price range. I guess MDR-V6 or MDR-7506. Maybe ATH-M50x if you want niggabass.
Of those
M40X Portable
7506 Home
XPT100
I did a little research on both as well as my current pair and decided that I should get a pair of HD 558 s. I'm interested in getting your opinions on refurbished ones though, or should I just spend a little extra and buy them new?
help
Custom One Pro/Custom Studio?
Just buy them new. They're under $100 in a lot of places right now and they're a steal at that price. You'd have to buy an HD600 to get a significantly more neutral headphone.
That's fair, I'll buy them in the morning. I appreciate the advice.
What's the difference between the two?
Amazon has "like new" HD558 for around $65 that should be fine. Up to you if you'd rather have one with the retail packaging.
Custom Studio uses the DT770 80 Ohm driver. Custom One Pro uses an inferior driver therefire sounds worse though is more efficient. Both have the same features.
Do they sound better than MSR7s?
>be me
>go to Sup Forums from space computer
>see hpg
>think I can learn Comstar's wisdom
>it's about headphones
damn
MSR7's are bright, these are V-Shaped. Depends on what you want.
HD800 with EQ, you can EQ them to whatever liking you want and unlike HD600 if you bump up the bass, and you will need to do it less, they won't distort as much. Also they are comfier than HD600 and fixate nicely on your head, so unlike HD600 they won't change sound as you position them around your head.
Yes, I'd say the NFB-11 is the better value. I love mine. Sorry I didn't reply sooner.
>spend $1000
>just EQ it anyways
What an absurd waste of money.
You can literally make $10 IEMs neutral without noticeable bass distortion with EQ. Spending $1000 on a headphone just to EQ it to neutrality is the dumbest fucking thing I think I've ever read on Sup Forums.
Spending that kind of money for the convenience of not having to do advanced EQing, a process which takes learning, time and effort? Great. Spending that kind of money for a result that'll sound pretty much the same if it would if you did it to $10 IEMs? Absolute lunacy.
>in b4 poorfag
I'm correct.
You are one of thous guys that think he can EQ his 10$ shit memephones into utopia right? Proves me correct, theorising poorfags that never had experience with real stuff really shit their bed.
>Budget
Around 100$, but can go a little over
>Location
USA
>Source
See bottom
>Type of headphone
IEMS
>Comfort level
Comfortable enough to wear for multiple hours in a row, but without sacrificing sound quality.
>Sound signature
I think neutral would be a good fit, but I'm not really sure. Listen to Hip-Hop, Rock, Synthwave, Chiptune, and many others.
Planning on getting a Fiio X5, but I've never bought a real music player before and I don't know if it's worth it. Would very much appreciate opinions on this.
Are the HD518's the best for value in the *HD500* range?
Is this good advice?
HD 598s underwhelming as fuck even with an amp and DAC, PLEASE DON'T FALL FOR THIS MEME
>bumping up bass instead of lowering everything else
Fucking retard, are you Unironically EQing HD800 to sound like walmart headphones?
558*
598s is an old meme. The new meme is the HD600.
Why does well mastered music sound good on all types of equipment but poorly mastered music it's a bit more difficult to make it sound good?
Not directly related to headphones but whatever. I'm moving out of my parent's house and I will have less space for my audio shit. Therefore, I want to know which one of the pictured setup is the best (or rather, less bad) ?
The speakers are Eltax Monitor III's and are hooked up to a Yamaha A-S301.
Do keep in mind that if I go with a wall mounts setup, I'll lose some bass since the woofer is located at the bottom of the speakers (the official mounts don't get in the way of the woofers but they're pretty expensive and can only be oriented left/right).
Well the thing is, no matter how good your hardware is, an awful master will ruin the song.
How far is your listening position away from the speakers?
Not very far, something like 60cm?
You're going to have to use equalization if you truly want neutral sound power. HD 600 is a pretty good model for being relatively neutral sounding out of the box. Listening to music which was mastered for loudspeakers through headphones is always going to be colored.
Well given the facts that there are no headphones with ideal response and that you can equalize any decent pair of headphones into one another, the criteria of the ideal headphone changes to something else than absolute sound quality. It comes down to other factors like response consistency and quality control, subjective ideas of comfort, isolation, form factor, portability etc. I can see HD 800 being great at many things but I don't think recommending it blindly just because you can EQ it makes much sense.
Your never ending rambling of that is proof of nothing.
They're pretty decent.
LCD-1 but since those aren't in production, MrSpeakers Ether.
Prove you can EQ headphones to sound exactly identical. Not prove it can be done, prove YOU can do it.
Diff user, but the "ideal" is to form an equilateral triangle with your speakers facing towards you.
Distance between you and each speaker (and speaker to speaker) should be approximately 3', or 91 cm.
The tweeter should be at ear level in height.
>ordered a Fulla 2 last night
This better not be another fucking meme
it is
get scammed nerd
>exactly identical
Sounding exactly identical? A claim that was never made.
>prove YOU can do it
I can't, obviously. I could break out a mic and start measuring headphones while fiddling around with an equalizer. Chances are I would be able to match the plots after some time but that does not translate into them sounding identical. Reseat the headphone and the process would start again.
Why mimic another headphone in the first place? Surely you can much better than copy some existing design.
>meme
The next thing you say you are hoping for audible improvements.
Prove you can EQ headphones to sound 95% identical. Not prove it can be done, prove YOU can do it.
So if the Fulla 2 is a meme, what should I buy instead?
nfb 11
I could try it with some Chink in ears. Going to be troublesome past 8 KHz. What constitutes as proof for you?
>meme
Form a proper question and without the meme word. If you don't know how to do that, explain what do you want. If you are just looking for a device to drive headphones:
>Amplifier/DAC checklist:
-Is it too quiet?
-Is the output impedance too high (resulting effect fixable by equalization)?
-Is there noise/EMI or hiss to it?
-Does it sound distorted as you start to crank up the volume?
If the answer is no, don't get one.
Now if you still feel like you want a device you need to explain your needs.
>I could try it with some Chink in ears. Going to be troublesome past 8 KHz. What constitutes as proof for you?
Measurements.
I have to turn my laptop's output to 80% to drive my headphones at a reasonable volume and it doesn't sound good.
I'll make a coupler and start fiddling. Might take a while.
Fulla 2 is great then.
>Might take a while.
I'll wait. Let me know once you realized you can't do it.
High Q modal resonances are a problem I probably can't fix. The rest depends on how much gain I have at hand(should be plenty for in ears) and how decent these sub 10 dollar in ears are. I know some of them are good as I've measured them before.
You should realize by now that measurements like these aren't proof of audibility. That has to be tested on human ears which poses numerous issues.
So basically, you can't do it. Oh well.
Another good point your post makes: high Q modal resonances. Good job figuring that out that what makes a headphone good isn't its "neutrality", but its FR smoothness.
>you can't do it.
>you can't do it.
What happened to your "95%"? What happened to wanting to see proof?
> Good job figuring that out that what makes a headphone good isn't its "neutrality", but its FR smoothness.
General preference is FR neutrality, extension and smoothness. Not a single one of these alone.
High Q is hard(er) to fix and less audible. Depends on the magnitude of the peak too of course.
If you can provide proof, sure. But I'm betting you can't.
>neutrality and extension
But that can be EQ'd. So it doesn't count. Wow!
Neutrality/smoothness are both just about the spectral balance of the FR. It's precisely the thing which can be equalized. Extension is can't but again that's something nobody ever claimed to be. I doubt that even these cheap things won't be limited in bandwidth so no worries there user.
But like you said prior, it's much harder to equalize out high Q peaks and dips. Meanwhile adjusting overall tonal balance is relatively easy.
Harder, not impossible. Even modal resonances can be equalized out but only on one insertion as they shift on insertion depth. The only thing which can't be fixed even in theory using EQ is a null.
>Harder, not impossible.
Can YOU do it? That was the whole point of me asking for proof. Cause if you claim that a problem doesn't matter, and you can't fix it yourself. Well, that doesn't look very good, does it?
>Can YOU do it?
That's what I'm about to find out soon. Need to calibrate REW first.
>he doesn't even know if he can or can't do it and yet he's on the internet telling people what they should think
That's funny. But anyways, I look forward to seeing you find out just how "hard but not impossible" it is.
Is a Sennheiser HD598SR for €158 worth it? German Amazon has a promo atm but Italian Amazon has a lowest price of €130.
Should i wait getting a pair of cans or isn't there going to be a sale anytime soon?
>>he doesn't even know if he can or can't do it and yet he's on the internet telling people what they should think
What.
What a lovely conversation user. I'm out. Will report back with some data(hopefully).
Take your time.
I bought the MSR7 after being recommended them here and reading additional reviews and they came today.
FUCK. These are excellent. These are the go to option for portable closed back headphones under 200, fuck the rest.
>tfw made in china
Those semitic nips outsourcing work to chinkland..
Where do you go to find the high quality headphones in a brick and mortar shop? I've never listened to a good pair but really want to try them out to see what I'm missing. We have jack shit for electronics/music shops where I live.
>Budget
50$, I have only owned cheap 20$ headphones until now, so i guess that would already make a big difference
>Location
Switzerland
>Source
old Samsung, maybe iphone 6s in the future
>Type of headphone
i prefer in ear, because its more practical, it doesnt matter that much though
>Comfort level
very important
>Sound signature
I listen to a lot of different genres, maybe mostly to classical music and old german songs,
Porta Pros. $50 isn't going to get you much of an upgrade.
How do the k702 and k712 compare?
What earpads are those?
What's the ETA?
K712 has better pads. You can basically put K712 earpads on K702 and they'll sound pretty much the same.
The bass in K712 is punchier and more present in most songs, the mids also sound warmer, and it rounds out and slight sibilance in the upper mids/treble area. Overall, the K712 sounds "fuller" across the spectrum.
Due to the fuller sound, the soundstage in K712 sounds slightly smaller and less airy, and generally less detailed than the K702. But they're only VERY slightly, you prolly won't be able to tell the difference without a/b testing it..
I've worked on a one cheap pair which I think is enough. It's no name brand, full plastic construction, bassy. I'm flattening the response, removing coloration as well as I can. Just starting with the tricky stuff now. Pic related is the original vs how it is after equalization. Flat within +-0.1 dB for the most part and infrasonic bass extension. My measurement setup has an error margin around the +-0.1 dB tolerance in the bass region that's already beyond the limit of audible coloration.
The question is does it sound any good
Are you EQing it to a flat, raw response?
That's another question. This is to try out whether I can make these sub 10 dollar in-ears to match whatever response I want. Sure it could sound "good"(as subjective as that is) but I'm currently destroying the sound by doing this. Already deleted the ~ 3 kHz rise. Flat bass on in-ears sounds very bass light.
Aside from the excessive gain around 100-500 Hz, it already sounded pretty good without any EQ. A little too dark as you would expect.
Yes. Raw response is the bassy one you see. Very typical one for this sort of device. I don't intend to use this EQ for anything else than test purposes.
Can your rig measure CSD, too? Would be interesting to see the "ringing" before and after EQ has been applied.
CSD, FR an IR are just another way to spin the same data around so yes, the rig does measure them all from the same sine sweep tone. REW(Room EQ Wizard) can generate IR, FR and CSD through Fourier Transform. It can also measure harmonic distortion as well as impedance but I don't have the gear for that.
I'm well aware of that.
So in theory, equalizing out a spike with a long decay time would cause the decay time to decrease. It's a common belief that this isn't the case. I'm asking you to provide proof that contradicts this belief since no one else has been willing to do it, at least not directly.
Leaving the EQ aside, aren't the HD800 flawed with some resonance shit?
Fuck no, the cheaper HD600 at least ain't fucked and don't even need EQ.
Yup, the HD 800 is unforunately flawed by design.
The 800S fixes it but it also costs an arm and a leg, 600/650 is a much better choice value-wise from any angle
800S has its own problem. It adds 2nd harmonic distortion in the bass, giving it a louder impression, but it's ultimately not accurate.