/pcbg/ - PC Building General - Click bait edition

>Assemble your parts list
pcpartpicker.com/
>How to assemble a PC, select components & more (kind of outdated)
wiki.installgentoo.com/index.php?title=Build_a_PC

If you want help:
>State the budget for your build (and country if not the USA).
>List games/software you use often, as well as your monitor resolution + refresh rate.
>Clarify your goal for build improvements: lower price or improved specs?

CPUs:
>G4560 - Budget builds (R5 1500x - All you really need for 60fps with power to spare; Don’t get an i5 right now.
>R5 1600 - Best value for higher fps gaming / mixed usage; Get a 1600x if you don't OC
>R7/Xeon/Threadripper - Compute/Multitask/mixed use; Not required for just gaming.

GPUs:
>Integrated CPU Graphics - Desktop stuff and very light games
>RX 560 and GTX 1050Ti - Lower end budget cards, drop settings on newer games
>RX570 - 1080p@60hz at high, running most maxed older games at 144+hz
>RX580 and GTX1060 - 1080p@60hz maxed, 1440p@60hz at lower settings; Go for the RX580 if you can.
>GTX 1070 - 1080p@144hz /1440p@60hz at high
>GTX 1080 - 1080p@144hz / 1440p@60hz maxed, 4k@60hz in a few games; Probably the highest end card you need for 1080p/1440p.
>GTX 1080 Ti - 1440p@144 hz and 4k@60hz maxed/high in many games; You're kind of going overboard with this one.
>Titan XP - 4k@60hz maxed in most, if not all games; You don't need this unless you're curing cancer or something.

General:
>ALWAYS LOOK AT PRODUCT REVIEWS!
>Always consider an SSD. Try buying a large SSD for what you'd pay for your SSD+HDD combined, and add a HDD later
>NVMe SSDs aren't for a faster OS boot, they're for productivity/scratch disk/VMs. NVMe and M.2 are not the same thing, M.2 is a form factor.

Please be nice to people asking questions. No fanboy arguments please.

Other urls found in this thread:

pcpartpicker.com/list/VJTTgL
pcpartpicker.com/list/nZd2wV
pcpartpicker.com/user/Davifier26/saved/mXqf7P
pcpartpicker.com/list/JRs77h
newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236785&ignorebbr=1
twitter.com/SFWRedditImages

Ice and snow themed build. Thoughts?
pcpartpicker.com/list/VJTTgL

Gonna grab the GPU when prices go down to reasonable levels again, and plan to grab a second kit of ram (same exact kit) for 16 GB total in the future when I need it.
SSD chosen almost entirely on looks since it will be on display.

>build rig
>no USB ports work
>just sets at bios screen telling me to set CMOS date
>you guys tell me to RMA motherboard
>do it
>same problem on new motherboard

You can't explain this shit

What's a good comparison site for performance where I can decide if upgrading is worth it for me as I want to justify an upgrade with large % in performance over predecessor

None, you watch specific benchmarks instead.

I'm buying a new rig with 16 gigs of RAM (2x 8 gigs) which I want to upgrade to 32 gigs eventually.
Should I buy the same brand of RAM again or will I be fine as long as I make sure to buy a 2x8 gig set again?

>just sets at bios screen
Turns out you're a gigantic fucking idiot who doesn't know the difference between set and sit. This site isn't for "people" like you.

get the same exact kit

Pretty sure my problem isn't because of a typo. Thanks for trying to help, but I'll wait for a suggestion from someone who knows a little more than you do.

actually looks pretty cool. can't really see anything wrong besides the PSU being overkill but it's OK, if you find a cheaper 550-ish watt get that tho

>a typo
The "e" and the "i" keys are on opposite ends of the keyboard. You don't know what the word typo means either, apparently. There's no amount of help for people like you. You'll fumble through life until eventually there isn't a tard guard around and you kill yourself because you failed to read a warning sign.

What's a good 3.25" SATA hot swap module that I can put in a 5.25" case bay, or even a good case that has something like that integrated already? I have like 10 bare HDDs lying around that I don't need permanently powered on and access only infrequently. I use a USB deal right now, but it'd be nice to have a solution integrated with my new desktop from the start.

Front, rear or all ports?

anyone have the scoop on Threadripper release. Still on a 3570k, and its fine but I have my eye on that 16c monster since its finally a worthwhile upgrade so many cores for VMs

All ports, including the ones directly from the motherboard. My USB devices work, I'm using them on my current computer.

But all I get on my new one is a screen that tells me the CMOs date is not set, and to press F1 or F2. Input doesn't work in any USB port. Before, you guys guessed it was a bad USB controller and told me to RMA. I did that and exact same problem.

Honestly any trayless SATA hot swap bay 5.25" module will do the job well enough.
They all do the same thing, just look up reviews for quality issues and you'll be good.

Lol no u

Sounds like user error. You probably weren't pressing the right keys since you think i and e are near each other.

Pull CMOS battery out, wait 10 minutes. Put it back in. Plug in keyboard and mouse, turn on computer, if it doesn't work, turn off computer and try next USB slot. If you had spent 5 minutes troubleshooting instead of running immediately to forums to solve your problems it would have been running by now.

pcpartpicker.com/list/nZd2wV

General home use and some gaming (Civ, Starcraft, maybe Witcher). Will likely upgrade the GPU later in the year for Destiny.

As long as you can fit a 1070 in there for destiny you should be fine

Don't buy Arctic Silver. The stock stuff on AMD's cooler is better.

>>GTX 1080 Ti - 1440p@144 hz and 4k@60hz maxed/high in many games; You're kind of going overboard with this one.
This calms my autism

Relax man. I've already done that. I've even booted it without the CMOS in at all. You must not have been here a few days ago when I detailed all the troubleshooting I've done. Its OK if you are out of the loop though, I'm sure someone who is more experienced will be able to help.

Is the psu any good?

No, that's not what it is either. I appreciate your enthusiasm to help, but I don't think you have very much expertise.

Can handle up to 13.5" so should be fine.

>I don't think
You sure got that right.

No it's hazardous, can't you read?

>I'm sure someone who is more experienced will be able to help.
You can repeat this until the end of time. It won't fix the fact that you're a retard.

Is there a good place to check if the case is compatible and will fit the new components? I am using the old case

>Please be nice to people asking questions.

Welcome to my website.

If not a single one port works on none of your devices, even after CMOS reset, it has to be the mobo. Do you have a PS/2 device to get by?

How do I install Linux without a bootloader USB or disk, from my tablet for example? I know there are applications for this like drivedroid, but you have to root first.

What brand is the best at Water cooling? I started with a corsair loop but multiple sites have reviews with pump failures and horrible support which are starting to scare me off

I've got one coming tomorrow. I'll let you guys know how it goes.

Any recommended 480-512GB SSD? Currently I'm sitting on an old evo 840 120GB, so anything is better.

what

New Evo or a cheapo PNY or whatever they're called.

960 Evo is pretty good.
Noctua

Whose dick do I have to suck to buy an RX 570?

I want to build a computer in the $800 range but I can't find a graphics card in stock anywhere.

>Whose dick do I have to suck to buy an RX 570?
Bitcoin miners'.
You're gonna have to wait for them to restocked or for bitcoin prices to crash, hopefully both 2bh

>hopefully both 2bh
Praise logic, I hope it crashes soon. Fucking miners.

>Noctua
>Water cooling

its going to be a 7700k so I'd like to start with water already on the fire

>recommending a TLC SSD

lel

I hope is crashes soon so I can buy some up real quick and make profit when it inevitably goes up
Remember like three years ago when it went up to like 1000 USD and then crashed? Now it's 4000. When this bubble bursts it's gonna cause an earthquake famalam

I'm planning on building a Ryzen/Vega microATX build for gaming at 1440p/144Hz. I'm waiting for the release of Vega Nova to determine if I get that or a 1080 ti. I'll be moving my r9 290 into the build until then. I'd also like AIO cooling for both CPU and GPU (assuming they have an AIO Nova).

My main concern is the motherboard (ASRock AB350M Pro4). Anyone have any input?

pcpartpicker.com/user/Davifier26/saved/mXqf7P

1600 or 1600x?

1600, 1600x if you're too lazy to OC and need that extra clock speed

Wow. You think it'll play Nethack?

Can we expect miners to try and sell their GPU's? Or does that just mean that there will finally be enough for the rest of us?

Probably both, but much moreso the second one

32 gigs of 2133mhz ram or 16 gig of 3000mhz for 4K/VR high end gaming?

For 1080p gaming Should I rather buy a 1060 for 250 or a 1070 for 350?

for 1080p 60fps, 1060 is fine. however, you should probably wait for the RX580 to get restocked because it is cheaper and more effective.

Yeah but here the cheapest RX 580 4gb are like 300 and it doesn't seem like it will go down

16 obviously. what're you goiing to use 32gb of ram for

Oh if you're not in America then 1060 is probably best, yea, foreign pricing kind of sucks for the AMD lineup
Get the 1070 if you really want stable 60fps or have a 144hz monitor (it is only 100 more after all), but otherwise yeah the 1060 should do you well.

Ok so have there been any recent well made benchmarks comparing the i7 7700k vs AMD cpus for 1440p 144hz gaming?

Last i looked a few weeks ago (and on here as well) for that setup, the 7700k was still recommended. This time the thread doesnt recommend the the 7700k. Have opinions changed?

I bought a 7700k with an asus promotion that game me a 100€ discount. I can still send it back for a refund and to get a ryzen chip.
Is it worth it?

Gave me*

The 7700k is still the best 144hz CPU around

hate to break it to ya pal but you're an idiot

ram speed is irrelevant; get what's cheapest

Got a Noctua fan to replace the stock intake fan in my case, should I use the spare as a second intake or a second exhaust?

Research positive vs negative airflow.
It depends on other fans in your case. Generally speaking you want an equal number of intake and exhaust, maybe 1 extra intake.

second intake, if you blow more air out than in it'll create a vacuum effect forcing air to enter from any holes in your case, messing up your airflow and getting dust inside your computer as only front intake holes are dust filtered

Then why was it removed from the OP text?
I love AMD as much as the next guy but we're going a bit overboard with the shilling. I agree that ryzen is the best value, but keep the old line about the 7700k being the best for 144hz while being bad value, and add that the amd CPU's are not as good but better value for what they offer

So I just bought

- Ryzen 1600
- B350 gaming plus
- 16GB 3200mhz ram(30$ then 8gb, I regret it though)
- 256GB WD Blue SSD
- 1TB WD Blue HDD
- VS600 PSU(25$ after rebate)
- LG DVD Drive
- Corsair R200 case

I have a GTX 1050 I'm going to use in it for temporary until the market for 580s or 570s crashes and I will buy one.

I have an OC'd i5 3570K.

Would I see any significant improvements if I went to a 1600 or a 7700K? Should I wait for whatever AMD and Intel have got coming next?

>(30$ then 8gb, I regret it though)
First it's "than", second I don't get why you would regret getting 16GB.

It is easy to go 3200 on my 3200 ram?

Is there a program for it or something? Using ryzen 1600x and Asrock fatality gaming k4. Was originally gonna go 2666 but will go 3200 if its easy enough, and there is a few kits on the QVL list.

I'd say becareful with your mobo
my b350 tomahawk won't post if I try and force 3200mhz even if it says it's compatible.

Turns out I'd have to remove the drive bays to put in a second intake.
Is a Noctua NF P12 all the intake fan I'll ever need in theory?

Guys I've got a Ryzen build in my shopping cart and I need a CPU cooler.
Definitely going to overclock.
Should I get an AiO? I'm worried leaks.

Intel have already announced what's coming next and it seems like a mess. If you have patience keep waiting and see if they figure shit out but their i9 lineup is a mess. I doubt AMD will announce anything new any time soon. Not sure what you use your pc for so i dont know if you'd notice improvements or not

Nah, AIO are within a few degrees of air cooler but cost much more.

Get a g4560, it performs very closely to i3s but cost much less

Does this look like a decent build for a budget gaming PC? My GPU is a Gigabyte 1050 ti, so obviously I'm not a super hardcore MLG pro (I just got Fallout 4 a few weeks ago). Would I be much worse off getting the i3 7100? I haven't upgraded my computer in ~5 years and I basically only play video games on the weekend, so I don't need anything top of the line.

Again, depens on the rest of your setup. If you have OC'd beefy components and live in a warm climate, then maybe it would be best to have some extra. Id say you should be fine with 1 intake and exhaust in "normal" situations.

Thanks for heads up.

i3 and i5 are dead.

G4560 (if poor), R5 1400 (if poor), 1600, r7 1700, 7700k.
Those are the only CPUs worth anything.

No one recommends Intel anymore.
Grab an AMD Ryzen 5 1600 with a B350 motherboard instead.

Alright, that answers that.
I'm prioritizing performance, but I'm not sure about a Noctua. Kinda wish the fans weren't so ugly.

Running a 1600 with the stock cooler and a 1060, no plans to overclock at the moment, and I've got decent ac.
I guess I'll have to ditch the Corsair 200r if I ever want to seriously overclock.

pcpartpicker.com/list/JRs77h

Alrighty, above I already brought (and at a cheaper price) other then cpu cooler and ram. Rams and CPUs are placeholders. the Ram is on the QVL list.

I'm looking to spend around $500 as a budget, maybe little more if it puts me at a nice threshold for performance.

Goals: Gaming 1080p@60mhz, although was looking forward to Vega til they fucked up the release date. Wouldn't mind something good for 1440p

And nothing else really. Besides Vega, was gonna fall back to 580 8GB but they're all gone.

Pic related is current PC that I'm definitely feeling the age on. I wanted to come out strong but still bang for buck, but all this mining fucked things over.

You can use other fans than the stock ones on air coolers.

Alright, made a few changes. Should this, along with a 1tb HDD and a GTX 1050ti allow me to play most games at a decent frame rate for a couple years?

Fuck me. I already bought*, and the cpu cooler and ram are placeholders.

Just run any monitoring program and look at the temps, components can get pretty damn hot before they have any risk of damage, but generally if everything stays under 50 at idle and 80 under load, you should be fine.

My current setup is shit, its a cannibalized prebuilt with no case fans, only the cpu fan, shitty cpu cooler and PSU fan. It generally gets to 50 at idle and 85 while gaming and its pretty hot, but i don't care about these components, and its useful during the winter anyway.

You'll be fine with a NH-D15.

I'm having a problem with the PC shutting it's self down and refusing to reboot.

I had HWinfo64 open and made it crash. How do I read the report? It opens in open office and it's just a huge sheet of numbers there.

Just picked up this monitor for $280. I hope I didn't fuck up.

newegg.com/Product/Product.aspx?Item=N82E16824236785&ignorebbr=1

If you're dead set on water cooling, delid and do a custom loop with parts from ekwb.

You don't need to EVO, this CPU already comes with a cooler. Please make an effort to read descriptions and inform yourself a little bit. As for your question yes you'll be fine.

Also you need faster RAM for Ryzen (2666 minimum), and dual channel is better, but that mobo only has 2 slots. Go 8x2 or 4x2 with a different mobo.

Hey /g looking to build a mid budget gaming pc. Budget 750 GBP. Any Advice?

Ah, didn't think of that.
So I could probably swap the two fans that come with my case and the two that came with a Noctua around.

Now I just need to not pick an industrial Noctua cooler.

does it matter if they will be on different channels?